Iggyg00

Hello,
I went to the drag races last weekend and want my 70 cutlass to be a driver but also a weekend warrior. Below is a list of what i would like to change and need help on the plan of attack and in what order:

1. rebuild 350 (full build)
2. replace trans with OD trans
3. replace rearend as currently it is a peg leg o type wiht 2.56
4. replace 4 wheel drum with 4 wheel disc
5. umi upper and lowers both front and rear
6. Coil overs front and rear double adjustable.


Any help is most appreciated.

coppercutlass

Do it one step at a time unless you don't plan on enjoying the car for a while. I would first address the rear end. Pick a good street / strip gear 3.73's are pretty good all around . The you can do upper and lower control arms. I would then have a trans built with a good converter somewhere between in the 2500 rpm range. Then I would do the brakes and all that good stuff and I would do the engine last. Since you will know what gear you have and converter. The only reason I suggest back to front is because if you build the engine and it needs gear and converter to make power you will disappointed . Working your way from back to front will allow you to pick components for your future build then once you go to build your engine you will know what you have to pick the proper cam for your gear and converter. Another key factor is what are your goals at the track. Just my 2 cents if you want to be ale to drive your car as you make changes.

Iggyg00

I like that idea as i can still enjoy the car and bullet proof all the stuff the engine will probably blow ahead of time. Any other suggestions. I could also get another olds engine and build that on the side and when all the other stuff is done drop it in.

coppercutlass

The option to build a separate engine is always thrown around im a fan of that as well. Personally I wouldn't get too caught up in overdoing the suspension. I ran stone stock suspension and drums on all 4 wheels. Currently I went to moroso trick springs , 90/10's and all new components. The ride is not nearly as bad as people make it out to be. As long as you have the front sway bar hooked up it wont ride like a bowl of soup. Now if you don't have it hooked up its nose up after leaving every stop lol.

Iggyg00

Next question will a 66 starfire engine be a good starter block. There is one in the junkyard ... THe vin is 35269 6e148032. The motor will only cost around 200 for the whole thing.

captjim

Personally, I would skip #4, #5, and #6. Go front disc/rear drum, decent regyular shocks, and maybe lowers on the rear with a sway bar. Then just run M/T drag radials at the track, it will hook up fine.

If you are going to replace the engine you might as well get a 455. The cost to overhaul is the same and a mild 455 will run high 12s with ease on pump gas. Otherwise, build the 350 strong and mild and use nitrous at the track, which to be perfectly honest, you probably don't have the experience to do. Also, you do realize the things you listed are going to cost you around $10,000? Isthat budget realistic?

Octania

rear end first

66 SF 425 would be a great start, next best thing to a Toro motor. '67 Toro 425 with BV C heads would be better. Cost to build a 350 is about the same as a 455/425, and the 425 is my first choice. If you have one handy for practically scrap price, go for it.

And, yeah, sit down and add up your numbers
It'll shock you.
MAchine shop trips are expensive.

oldcutlass

I have to agree with Jim. What is your budget and skill level?

coppercutlass

I would atleast do the rear control arms . Or have the stockers boxed in with 1\4 in plate . It helps with wheel hop big time.

Iggyg00

Skill level I am pretty good at most things mechanical if I don't now I ask the guestion to the experts. budget 10k is fine but it will be spread out over the next couple of years so the wife doesn't flip out.

oldcutlass

$10k should do it. My advise is read a lot, people have done the same thing over the years. Capitalize on the historical documented successes. A good 455, and depending on how far you are going to drive your car, is whether you really need an overdrive trans or not. Torque convertor selection is very important to a good setup, as are rearend gears. Make sure all the parts in your mods work together.

jag1886

People here are right a 455 is about the same cost to build as a 350, it just depends on how much gas you want to feed it, a good built 350 can be a thrill.
I found using an OD transmission is money in the bank, gives you a good deep first gear and the OD is very useful so you can use a deep rear gear and still get somewhat good gas milage plus you aren't winding the crap out of the engine on the highway.
You can rebuild the rear end add a posi unit and the gear you want to match your overall combo.
I wouldn't waste money on 4 wheel disc's, your car is very easy to convert to front disc's and just rebuild the rear drums.
I don't think you need to go to the expense of those fancy control arms on the front unless you are going to go out and chase some cones instead of drag race, the rear could use some better lower arms or at least box the ones you have, I found that just replacing every bushing with new ones, adding larger sway bars, new coil springs and better shocks make a huge difference in handling. I took my car through the mountians this spring with the above improvements and it handled so well around corners my wife was about to blow chunks.
You probably need coilovers like you need another butt-hole.

Fun71

Note that he has an O-Type 12 bolt, so the possible gear ratios for that are limited to start with, and none of the gear companies are currently making ANY gears for it.

jag1886

You should say parts are hard to find, you can find anything if you look hard enough. I own an Oldsmobile also so I know.

rootney

Beefing the rear and making a tranny choice IMO are correct "first places" to put your actual bucks in hardware. I would advise a hold off on the torque converter until you've committed to an engine approach. It's way easy to stray to the more radical engine approach after you've begun, then the TC is too soft.

George

Smitty275

I would do rear end first. Probably contact Super Cars Unlimited for gears. If anyone has them they will or will know where to send you.

Then decide what you want for the engine. Cost the same no matter what block you build. The 455 had best selection of parts available. Plus you just can't beat break neck torque output for your driving pleasures.

I would use a 4L80E transmission. Absolute best of the best for OD transmissions. All the strength and durability of a TH400 plus OD.

Do at least a front disc brake conversion. Its easy to do and factory parts are readily available in bone yards and swap meets. Nothing like cutting 30% off your stopping distance.

The control arms you can swap in anytime and aren't highly important. Their nice bonus pieces though. I would do them when you decide to do the could over conversion. Which once again isn't that important until you really getting serious about racing.

Just remember to have fun and don't do anything halfway. Do it right so you only have to do it once. AND have fun doing it.

Iggyg00

thanks for all the replys so far. just checked super cars unlimited and the gears are a no go. Says they will be back in stock march or april.


After everyones input this is the new list:

1. REAR ( posi and new gears hopefully in the range of 3.73) only issue here is i dont know if i want to keep it olds or go with a corporate 10 bolt as parts are easier to find

2. front brakes (the front drums really dont give me warm a fuzzies when stopping)

3. trans either a 200 or 700 . trying to not go ls1 and i fear if i go 4l80 im already half way there for a swap


keep the info coming guys it really helps with the decision making

cutlassefi

200-4R is a good choice. It's a straight bolt in and no computer needed. Plus it takes less hp to drive it vs a TH400 or 4L80E.
And yes I'd do the gear first.

orismedic

X2 on the 200r4, same size as the th350, and can be built, CK does a great 200r4.

Fun71

Except 3.73 gears.

That was my point in replying to your post - he can't get any gear he wants to match his setup as the available gear ratios for the O-Type are more limited than other rears, and as you stated, the available ones are hard to find.

If you stay with the O-Type, you can't get 3.73s but you can get 3.42 and 3.90. Contact Brian Trick about the rear - he is one of our differential gurus and has a lot of sources for parts.

olds 307 and 403

Did you run your car? What did it run and what are your goals? Pretty easy to spend 10 grand, I have and my car is nothing special. Spare motor is a great idea to build, I am doing that, I can take as much time as I need. I prefer the SBO over the BBO, personal preference. The BBO is easier to adapt currently available aluminum heads and has direct bolt in, aftermarket connecting rods. Stay some what mild if you do a 455 or you will have to have a very expensive 2004R or 700R4 built and still may not live. Many builders prefer the 2004R for Hi Po builds over the 700R4 but more know how to build the 700R4 properly, especially local shops. I have both behind mild Olds 350's but different applications, one in a 4x4. They both have plus and negatives but the gear spread is noticeably better on the 2004R. Both are better than a TH350 or 400 for gearing. Follow the advice others have posted and you will have a nice set up.

oldsmoboogie

What kind of e.t.s are you looking for? I had 4 wheel discs on my car 12inch up front and 11 3/4 out back and had to run 17 inch wheels. I didnt care for it and neither did my 60ft time so i switched to stock discs up front and drums in rear now i have alot more wheel tire combos to choose from. Stay away from high dollar controll arms and coil overs unless you plan on hitting an auto cross. With a rebuilt suspension, properly sized sway bars and springs your car will handle nicely. I would suggest the jeep steering box swap as that was the best bang for the buck i have done. I would do the suspension and brakes first then go for trans and gears. Its better to drive a safe slow car than a fast car that handles like jello. I prefer the 2004r it has been great in my car and i love it. Good luck and keep us posted.

Iggyg00

Well guys picked up a 71 Buick Skylark 10 bolt today for a whopping $96. Started the tear down and no rust on the gears that i can see or the first shaft. I was worried as it had been sitting for the last 5 years with the last 6 months outside. Everything spun freely.

Rear end has the LKB stamp which from what i can gather is a 2.56 open carrier 10 bolt with bolt in axles and 28 spline.( This will be changed to probably 3.73 posi soon). Waiting on feedback from 507olds.


ET's dont have any yet but there is a grudge match coming up in march that i will go to and run the car here in georgia. Need to get a couple of things complete before i go.

1. replace the deck between the back window and trunk as the window track is rusted out.

2. get a wideband and tune the carb as currently im shooting from the hip.

3. modify the driveshaft to fit the new rearend.

4. rebuild the rearend.

Smitty275

That's a good start. Since its a basic 10 bolt parts are readily available. Check out the large discount house's or contact manufacturers directly.