350 Nascar HP Motor Build

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old January 19th, 2014, 01:17 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
madmax442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Barre,VT
Posts: 621
350 Nascar HP Motor Build

In the process of Aquiring an HP NASCAR block and looking for Ideas on a serious street/strip build. Definatly looking to be Procahrged and my car is already plumbed for nitrous. Love to hear feedback!
madmax442 is offline  
Old January 19th, 2014, 04:10 PM
  #2  
Engine Builder
 
Smitty275's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, ohio
Posts: 552
As much stroke as will fit, which is 4" to maybe 4.100". No need for massive bore so 4.057 - 4.125 would be excellent. Compression wise pretty much whatever you want. You set the blower up based on compression so you could go 8:1 or 10.5:1. You have a lot of latitude with a blower motor because you can make up for lack of cubic inch and compression by turning up the drive ratio of the blower. Naturally a high quality blower piston, aluminum rods, forged 400/425 crank or billet crank. A good set of fully ported Edelbrock heads to go with it. Probably a Victor intake. But under boost it doesn't make near as much difference. I'd go full EFI and coil on plug with something like a Holley Dominator system which will also control a 4L80E which would be a great trans to back it up with.
Smitty275 is offline  
Old January 19th, 2014, 04:21 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
madmax442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Barre,VT
Posts: 621
Originally Posted by Smitty275
As much stroke as will fit, which is 4" to maybe 4.100". No need for massive bore so 4.057 - 4.125 would be excellent. Compression wise pretty much whatever you want. You set the blower up based on compression so you could go 8:1 or 10.5:1. You have a lot of latitude with a blower motor because you can make up for lack of cubic inch and compression by turning up the drive ratio of the blower. Naturally a high quality blower piston, aluminum rods, forged 400/425 crank or billet crank. A good set of fully ported Edelbrock heads to go with it. Probably a Victor intake. But under boost it doesn't make near as much difference. I'd go full EFI and coil on plug with something like a Holley Dominator system which will also control a 4L80E which would be a great trans to back it up with.
I was thinking 425 crank or moldex myself
As well but greg godon(who I'm getting the block from suggested I stay near 400 cu in. You would do aluminum vs forged steel for all around durability? I'm not sure on the heads. I was thinking Ebrocks but then I started looking at wise heads as battens are just too much money in my opinion. Intake wise I like the victor but clearance would be an issue as I want a w30 style hood as apposed to the run of the mill chevy cowl lookalike. I am seriously hoping to get 800-1200hp depending on boost levels. I understand this is a wide margine but with today's technology I think it's attainable but that's just my .02.
madmax442 is offline  
Old January 19th, 2014, 06:01 PM
  #4  
Registered User
 
Strange Magic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 17
Originally Posted by madmax442
I was thinking 425 crank or moldex myself
As well but greg godon(who I'm getting the block from suggested I stay near 400 cu in. You would do aluminum vs forged steel for all around durability? I'm not sure on the heads. I was thinking Ebrocks but then I started looking at wise heads as battens are just too much money in my opinion. Intake wise I like the victor but clearance would be an issue as I want a w30 style hood as apposed to the run of the mill chevy cowl lookalike. I am seriously hoping to get 800-1200hp depending on boost levels. I understand this is a wide margine but with today's technology I think it's attainable but that's just my .02.

Why dont you let Greg build your motor. He was building his own turbo car. Ask him how that is working out for him.
Strange Magic is offline  
Old January 19th, 2014, 06:10 PM
  #5  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
madmax442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Barre,VT
Posts: 621
Well he's a bit far from me. I'm in Vermont and he's in Illinois. I also need to get parts and am not really ready quite yet.
madmax442 is offline  
Old January 19th, 2014, 06:24 PM
  #6  
Registered User
 
cutlassefi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Central Fl
Posts: 7,827
Originally Posted by madmax442
I understand this is a wide margine but with today's technology I think it's attainable but that's just my .02.

Exactly.
Try this on for size;
A DX or Nascar block, Billet caps
H beam rods (Not Scat or Eagles, I'm talking Callies, Oliver, Lunati etc.)
CP, Mahle or similar piston
Victor intake with an elbow (should fit under the hood)
Obviously then EFI

A lot of these parts are available off the shelf, that'll keep costs down. You can put the rest of the money in the EFI and other parts.

Jmo.

Last edited by cutlassefi; January 19th, 2014 at 06:26 PM.
cutlassefi is offline  
Old January 19th, 2014, 06:36 PM
  #7  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
madmax442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Barre,VT
Posts: 621
Yup! I'm not skimping on crank rods or pistons at all! I'm just not sure on aluminum rods got street/strip although the weight savings would be nice!
madmax442 is offline  
Old January 19th, 2014, 07:21 PM
  #8  
Registered User
 
oldsmobiledave's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Delta BC Canada
Posts: 3,688
max stroke

Originally Posted by Smitty275
As much stroke as will fit, which is 4" to maybe 4.100". No need for massive bore so 4.057 - 4.125 would be excellent. Compression wise pretty much whatever you want. You set the blower up based on compression so you could go 8:1 or 10.5:1. You have a lot of latitude with a blower motor because you can make up for lack of cubic inch and compression by turning up the drive ratio of the blower. Naturally a high quality blower piston, aluminum rods, forged 400/425 crank or billet crank. A good set of fully ported Edelbrock heads to go with it. Probably a Victor intake. But under boost it doesn't make near as much difference. I'd go full EFI and coil on plug with something like a Holley Dominator system which will also control a 4L80E which would be a great trans to back it up with.

Why is the max stroke of a Nascar block 4.100"?
oldsmobiledave is offline  
Old January 19th, 2014, 07:36 PM
  #9  
Out of Line, Everytime😉
 
olds 307 and 403's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 8,919
Isn't there only that much room for stroke in a SBO? What stroke is in your 470 Dave?
olds 307 and 403 is offline  
Old January 19th, 2014, 07:38 PM
  #10  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
madmax442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Barre,VT
Posts: 621
I was curious if you could go bigger then the 451 cu in diesel build but not sure.
madmax442 is offline  
Old January 19th, 2014, 07:49 PM
  #11  
Registered User
 
oldsmobiledave's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Delta BC Canada
Posts: 3,688
size matters

Originally Posted by madmax442
I was curious if you could go bigger then the 451 cu in diesel build but not sure.

Yes. You can. But bigger is not always better.
oldsmobiledave is offline  
Old January 20th, 2014, 03:07 AM
  #12  
Engine Builder
 
Smitty275's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, ohio
Posts: 552
Yes, you can go bigger than 451. I've done many 454 versions and know of a few that are 460 or 461.
But there is really no need to max bore on a blower motor. If it doesn't make enough power change pulleys and crank up the boost a pound or two.
I wouldn't hesitate to use aluminum rods in a build for street/strip. Unless you plan on firing it up when its below freezing. Otherwise make sure the engine is warmed up before you beat on it and they'll be fine. With a blower on it your not going to be turning high rpm, which is whats hard on aluminum rods. Just cruising around with them is not detrimental to them. The Bill Miller Engineering site has information on it about using aluminum rods on the street.

Last edited by Smitty275; January 20th, 2014 at 03:19 AM.
Smitty275 is offline  
Old January 20th, 2014, 05:44 AM
  #13  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
madmax442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Barre,VT
Posts: 621
Yeah I have Bill Travatos book and he mentioned aluminum rods as well. I guess today aluminum rods are more durable then 10-15 years ago for street use? What about the heads though? Am I wrong at looking at Wise heads or should I just get some Ebrock blanks and have Bill do his thing?
madmax442 is offline  
Old January 20th, 2014, 06:54 AM
  #14  
Registered User
 
cutlassefi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Central Fl
Posts: 7,827
Originally Posted by madmax442
Am I wrong at looking at Wise heads or should I just get some Ebrock blanks and have Bill do his thing?

I'd just get some bare Edelbrocks and have them ported. It's not nearly as critical on a blown application like Smitty said. If you want more power just turn up the boost.
cutlassefi is offline  
Old January 20th, 2014, 07:04 AM
  #15  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
madmax442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Barre,VT
Posts: 621
Yeah that sounds better on the wallet too although a lot of parts and labor there!
madmax442 is offline  
Old January 1st, 2015, 08:09 PM
  #16  
Registered User
 
rocketrain68@gmail.com's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1
Can't decide

Originally Posted by Smitty275
As much stroke as will fit, which is 4" to maybe 4.100". No need for massive bore so 4.057 - 4.125 would be excellent. Compression wise pretty much whatever you want. You set the blower up based on compression so you could go 8:1 or 10.5:1. You have a lot of latitude with a blower motor because you can make up for lack of cubic inch and compression by turning up the drive ratio of the blower. Naturally a high quality blower piston, aluminum rods, forged 400/425 crank or billet crank. A good set of fully ported Edelbrock heads to go with it. Probably a Victor intake. But under boost it doesn't make near as much difference. I'd go full EFI and coil on plug with something like a Holley Dominator system which will also control a 4L80E which would be a great trans to back it up with.
rocketrain68@gmail.com is offline  
Old January 1st, 2015, 08:20 PM
  #17  
Registered User
 
Octania's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
"But bigger is not always better."

I bet you tell that to all the girls....

:-)

sorry, couldn't resist
Octania is offline  
Old January 1st, 2015, 08:40 PM
  #18  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
madmax442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Barre,VT
Posts: 621
Wow dug up my old thread here! I have acquired 2 sets of batten heads since I started this thread last year! I plan on doing a 425-434 cu inch build with F2 procharger. Most likely it will be carbed unless efi is better suited for my situation!
madmax442 is offline  
Old January 3rd, 2015, 03:26 PM
  #19  
Registered User
 
wr1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,574
Originally Posted by madmax442
Wow dug up my old thread here! I have acquired 2 sets of batten heads since I started this thread last year! I plan on doing a 425-434 cu inch build with F2 procharger. Most likely it will be carbed unless efi is better suited for my situation!
Keep us posted on progress!
wr1970 is online now  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jon69olds
The Clubhouse
31
April 27th, 2016 11:49 AM
madmax442
Small Blocks
14
January 21st, 2014 04:58 PM
z11375ss
The Clubhouse
19
July 16th, 2009 11:03 PM
J-(Chicago)
The Clubhouse
0
May 3rd, 2009 11:33 AM
z11375ss
The Clubhouse
15
April 28th, 2009 12:54 PM



Quick Reply: 350 Nascar HP Motor Build



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:40 PM.