transmission question
#1
transmission question
So im tracing down some noises and im replacing my flex plate . I just got done putting the trans in. Not done yet just 2 bolts and the crossmember. My question is the is a 1/4 in. gap between the converter and the flex plate it seem to be excessive im used to just moving the converters back a smidge. Im thinking the converter just may be the noise im trying to zero in on . What do you guys think ?
Ps. disregard the blue goop off the pan I use a thin film on silicone on my pan and I removed it to inspect it and just installed for the trans install so the loose ends are just hangin. I got a new seal lol.
Ps. disregard the blue goop off the pan I use a thin film on silicone on my pan and I removed it to inspect it and just installed for the trans install so the loose ends are just hangin. I got a new seal lol.
#3
I know that .,I'm just asking if the gap is correct or excessive. I'm used to it just sliding a bit . This seems kinda like a lot. I ran this converter before and it just seems like that's kind of big gap to close up. I'm being overly cautious because I'm traking down noises . I already spun it back and it mates good but I guess this time around I'm watching every little thing.
#6
380 I think that's what I need. This was a custom built unit from a shop on ebay. had good reviews. Is there a certain width gap that there should be before bolting the converter when you ran your washer ? IM thinking the noise I was hearing is my converter .
#8
so I can get some .125 washers and i will be in the right area I need to be . Im going to measure it right . I used a 1/4 inch socket extension and it fit in. I was beat after a 12hr day yesterday and just put the trans in place and got the grunt work done. I should be leaving work in a few hours and i'll be back at it .
Last edited by coppercutlass; June 22nd, 2013 at 02:03 PM.
#12
With that gap you show, is that with the converter seated against the crank ??
Maybe that converter was made for a mid motor plate.
If it was seated and still have a gap, that must be for a motor plate.
Now if you did not seat it and run the spacer, you are depending on the bolts to hold it center, to me is not good. That is what the hub is for.
JMO
Gene
Maybe that converter was made for a mid motor plate.
If it was seated and still have a gap, that must be for a motor plate.
Now if you did not seat it and run the spacer, you are depending on the bolts to hold it center, to me is not good. That is what the hub is for.
JMO
Gene
#14
Ok guys. here is the scoop. I put in anew flexplate new front tires and the car runs much better. I held second gear up to about 4k. No noises then I put it in 3rd and immediately started hearing the grinding noises again. Could the converter be the culprit? I thre that possibility but if it was the converter it would do it all the time Is what im thinking correct? I don't think it's my drive shaft. Im gonna take the hoop off and take it for a spin tomorrow. But if it was my drive shaft it would do it in 1st and second as the engine is pulling hard. Any thoughts guys. I know this is more of transmission section topic but since im racing it I figured someone hear has had a trans go bad before.
#15
HI mate dont think converter cos would make a noise in all gears could be something in the trans ! Now excuse me for jumping in on this but i also have a converter problem in that i got a JW from a friend to replace the BnM I blew to bits on a 10 sec Nitrous run. I noticed the JW had a longer hub that fits into the crank and now fitted the converter only pulls forward the minimum 1/8th before stopping leaving it at least another 1/8th away from the flywheel. So i fitted a washer to each bolt but it did not quite fill the gap and started to flex the flywheel as i tightened it, so i tried 2 washers but that was too much sending converter back into trans and so losing the 1/8th clearance i need. So do i try and get some washers made up to the exact gap or as my friends advise take it all out again and have say 1/4 taken off the hub, HELP!
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