jims2000lt

Well my 455 died this past weekend on the way to the track. 35 mile drive, after 10 miles the oil pressure started dropping. Stopped for gas and it was worse after i restarted. By the time I pulled into the track entrance I knew I wouldnt be running it that day. Its been together since 05 and the stock reconditioned rods finally had enough mid 11 second passes.
Has a knock and low oil pressure but it didnt throw a rod. I'll be pulling it apart in the next few days to acess the damage.
Crank has allready been cut .10 under. Rods will be trash along with the heavy speed pro pistons.
With a welded and ported torker, lunati voodoo flat tappet, and home polished E-brocks; its been 11.52 at 116mph. Prob has more in the car after all the changes this past winter.

Anyhow I'm looking at going bigger and better. Right now this will just be a short block build until I find out if the cam is hurt. Not sure if any shavings got around the engine. Plan on going through Rocket Racing for parts and machine work. They have an Eagle rotating kit on their website that I'm interested in. Bring them the block and have them Do Work Son!
Any info, tips, advice, or things to do or watch out for would be appreciated.

Thinking of going to a victor intake.
Also opinions on my current studs and main straps. last time it was apart the bearing were 6 years old but looked brand new.
Thanks, Jim

TripDeuces

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...61398-496.html

I'm doing the same but going slow atm. You can follow along here. I had to return my Eagle crank awhile back for being bad but from what I understand the newer ones have much better quality control. I'm not bashing Eagle as many here have used them with success. Just saying check everything before it goes together. It's your dime ultimately.
My only advice is check everything and clean it a lot then clean it again after you think it's clean.

Rickman48

RR did all the machine work on my nephews 496 + Edelbrock heads - no problems at all!
Ends up being cheaper than reconditioning the stock stuff, with better reliability!

droldsmorland

Bill Travato BTR out of Rochester Ny. At least give him a shout for a good brain pickin...he also authored a book which Im told is a great ref.

jims2000lt

Thats what I'm thinking instead of turning down stock crank for BBC rods and all the hasle.
Take my block to RR, say I want this this and this, call me when its done.

jims2000lt

Have the book. Wish it came out years ago.
Oh well.

cutlassefi

I've mentioned it many times. Make sure their machine practices are equal to what they charge.
Most shops don't use a BHJ Bor Tru plate like my guy does. BTR uses a CNC program that locates off of a bad location, plain and simple, the dowel pins. They're very seldom in the right spot to begin with. Bad reference, less than perfect results.

Yes I'd strap or girdle it. With an increased stroke comes an increased load automatically.
But if you want to use it, the stock "N" crank will work just fine.

Good luck on your project, let me know if I can help.

jims2000lt

Allready has studs and straps. May do a halo. Deffinately gonna shop around for machine work. Once I get it out and apart I'll see what the damage is and go from there.
If the crank is fine I'll keep it and get new rods, pistons, etc.
If its bad I'll look into a new crank and bigger cubes.
Do you sell internal Olds parts? Rods & pistons, etc?

cutlassefi

Pm'd you.

jims2000lt

Got the engine out last nite and apart today.
Heres what I found.
spun #3 rod bearing
5 & 6 rod bearings are showing copper
some meatl flakes in pan
cam looks fine
mains feel fine but I havent pulled the caps yet
crank is wore where the bearing spun
piston tops and combustion chambers look consistant

Looks like I lucked out shutting it down when I did.
Gonna call Rocket Racing today to see what my options are.
Might keep the crank and get it turned and thrn replace the pistons and rods with good stuff.
Or go with the 496 stroker kit.

chadman

I wouldn't mess with a halo girdle if you already have straps. In the end they are no different function wise. Whatever you do just use a set of H-beam rods and ditch those stock sticks of butter for connecting rods.

jims2000lt

Those are my thoughts too. Thanks.

507OLDS

BTR puts the bore where it should be.
You may or may not be able to offset grind your existing crank,depending on how bad it is,since it was already .010. The crank guys like to have something good to start with,but see what you can do witrh it.
If you get an Eagle crank,just have the whole thing checked.You should never take any new crank directly out of the box,and install into an engine without checking to see exactly what it has.
If you go with a 496 or similar stroker,you will need a different cam.

380 Racer

A guy should have everything going in a motor checked out........no matter where it came from.........period!

cutlassefi

With all due respect Brain, he doesn't need a different cam but he may want to get something bigger.

507OLDS

Yes because the increase in cubes will tend to mello a cam. Sure,you can reuse that can,but there is something much better for the 496.

442rocketdave

On the crankshaft make sure your machinist can check the index of the crank not just that its straight. Having an indexed crank for racing helps. I have gone to several machine shops and they dont have the tools to measure the index, usually if they have a crankshaft grinding machine they can do that. x2 on what trip deuce said clean it, clean it!!!!

jims2000lt

Thanks for all the input guys.
Not my first build, its just been awhile so I'm not to familiar with what parts and options are out there now.

Like the stroker kit idea if the crank cant be saved.

Probably will end up going with a different cam.

cutlassefi

Usually? Wow!

442rocketdave

I have been to three shops with Crank Grinding machines and they did not have the tools to measure for indexing. Of course some of the machines were ancient dinasours, the last 2 shops could not drill the crank for the 4 spd bearing.

cutlassefi

If they had a crank grinder and a dial indicator then yes they did have the equipment needed to index the crank. They just apparently don't have the skill.

442rocketdave

apparently, they cant figure out how to?? Its pretty bad when a machine shop cant even drill out the back of a crankshaft, as far as machine shops go there are alot out there who cannot do the job right. Like the one in Ocala who burned me with my two motors!! There used to be some good machine shops in central florida but like you said you have a guy in Jacksonville! a long way away but its worth it to get quality work.

jims2000lt

The shop i've used for the past to builds of my 455 went well. They have redone a ton of other motors for my friends and family. its a father and son operation but I dont know if the old man is still grinding cranks. Son usually does all or most of the other work involved.
Last time I had my engine machined the son recomended finding a rod with a full floating pin.
I didnt think it was necessary at the time, also too expensive.
Not gonna happen this time. I plan on spending $$$$. Really want to build an Anvil with attached heads and intake if you know what I mean.

? I allready have studs and straps on mains 1-4. Thinking this might not be enough especially if I go to a 4.5 stroke crank.
Any options here? Thinking of using my spare block so I can through a real girdle on it?
I've seen OPP sells billet steel maincaps and RR sells billet aluminum caps.

442rocketdave

Jim I am not up on the new girdles or main caps, but I know about strokers I have had several and the one thing they have is monster torque and you dont have to rev them as much on my 496 I only had to rev it 5400 to 5800 max. If I ran 5500 in every gear I would run 11.00 almost every time. That motor lasted forever!! I would go H rods like Chadman said and get the best in the bottom end!!

ah64pilot

Sorry to hear that Jim...your car was running well too! Good luck on the next one, can't wait to see what you make of it!

I think you'll do well if you have RR build the bottom end.

jims2000lt

Thanks man. We'll see. been calling RR for days now, leaving messages but havent heard anything back. My take the block in to a local shop I've used for years. Planning on buying my own torque plates for this build.

Rickman48

Ted @ Opel Engineering in Streamwood has Olds experience too!
John @ RR sometimes gets involved in his own race car, and ignors the phone.
Nephew had the same problem, but waited.
Keep trying!

cutlassefi

You only need 1 torque plate. Then you may want to buy the Bor-Tru as well and do it right.
Yes John@RR can be hard to get ahold of, not sure how you can run a business like that but I guess he does pretty well.

jims2000lt

J&S Machine sells torque plates for 7/16 & 1/2 inch studs. Probably going to have mine opened to 1/2. Also only plan on buying one.
RR is 2 hours away and I dont want to deal with getting ahold of anyone, especially if they have my stuff.
Going to stop in a at few shops tomorrow to see who will be lucky enough to work on my crap. Ha!!!

380 Racer

Jim I gave you advice, Talk to him he will tell you a great shop that he uses......none better.

jims2000lt

Replied to your pm. Thanks again.

380 Racer

Talked to John earlier this evening and he was wondering if you were using their current shop number 262-706-3277.

jims2000lt

Yup. I'll be trying again tomorrow. Even if I dont go with them for the machine work because of the distance away, I plan on getting alot of parts from them. I got all my parts from them on my last build in 05.

oldsmoboogie

Jim from j&s did my heads on my 455 and did an excellent job and great customer service. Its a drive but I will be using him to build my stroker when im ready.

jims2000lt

Crank was a 76 cast crank I used on my last build and its junk.
Looking at going with MJPerformance 4 bolt main cap conversion and filling block with Hard Block for strenght.
My machineist has a BHJ torque plate to use when its time for a hone.
Engine was .40 over and will be going .60 after the mains are installed, filled, and line honed. Ring end gap was too tight and cut grooves into the cylinder walls.
Plan on using BTRs backgrooved cam bearings.
Selling my old Torker with plans to run a 2810 Victor.

jims2000lt

Talked to John @ Rocket Racing. Ordered a stock stroke Eagle rotating kit from them among a few other parts.
Got my block back all stripped of plugs and cleaned.
Going to half fill the water jackets with Hard Block to help beef up the bottom end.
I still havent fully decided on what to use for the mains. Have studs and straps but may go with caps from Rocket Racing or 4 bolt caps from MJ Performance.
Might go with a Hyd roller and probably going to keep the torker since I may put a stock hood back on the car.

380 Racer

I was under the impression that filling the block with hard block is to keep the cylinders round, not beef up the bottom end.

I asked my engine builder about a 4 bolt cap conversion. He told me that it would actually weaken the block. This of course was on my 350.

Main caps.......steel or aluminum?

jims2000lt

Rocket Racing sells aluminum caps.

Very true with the block filling but I'm doing this if I go with the 4 bolt conversion since the outter bolts will go into the water passages.
I wont have to use or worry about thread sealent leaking water into the oil pan.

There's pros and cons to every lower end improvement for Olds engines... which is why I havent decided yet.

Also, talking to John was great, he remembered my build up from 05 and meeting him at Byron in 08. Very down to Earth and insightful guy to know and deal with for Oldsmobile engines and parts..

442rocketdave

My experience with 4 bolt mains was not good and my current machinist said it will weaken the lower end, he recomended a halo girdle there are several out there, but this was my experience, how much overbore do you have or will have?

jims2000lt

Its at .40 and will have to go .60.
I'm looking into the halos too.
For ease of install and they seem to work well with less work to install.
Will have to get mains checked and most likely a line bore any route I go.
I like the price of the Halos alot better too.