New to Olds Motors...need advice
January 1st, 2013, 12:35 PM
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Long Island, NY (Home of Amy Fisher)
Posts: 84
New to Olds Motors...need advice
Hey...looking to see if anyone can tell me if this sounds to wild for street & Strip for a 68 442 Clone. It comes with a rebuilt TH400 Trans. Currently has a 350/350 set up in it. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
See below-
See below-
Block preparation:
Engine block hot tanked and new brass core plugs/ Federal Mogul cam bearings (1234M) installed. The block was bored +.030” on our precision boring stand. All head and main bolt holes are tapped. The block is then torque-plate honed; honing process is performed in 3 steps; piston to wall clearance held at .006”. ARP main studs (185-5401) installed.
Rotating assembly preparation:
Diamond Racing Products light weight custom forged pistons (2618 material) installed. Speed Pro “Plasma” moly piston rings (R10375-30) installed on pistons, as are Federal Mogul aluminum alloy main bearings (4294M-10), fully grooved; feed hole enlarged to 17/64”. Federal Mogul HD connecting rod bearings (8-3345P-10) and cam bearings installed (all bearing clearances held around .0025”). Competition Cams HD .250” double roller timing set (3113). Competition Cams hydraulic camshaft installed (custom grind: intake lift .584”/ exhaust lift .579”, intake duration at .050” 248/ exhaust duration at .050” 253, 114 degree lobe separation); cam degreed-in to cam card. ARPconnecting rod bolts installed (185-6001), connecting rod caps relieved for ARP bolts, rods are then reconditioned and balanced. Crankshaft is hot tanked and precision ground .010”/.010”. The rotating assembly is precision balanced with damper and flex plate installed.
Components to complete short block:
Speed Pro high volume, HD oil pump (224-41203V) installed with high volume, bolt-on pick-up (15-503) and 7 quart oil pan (15-502) from Canton. Two piece Fel Pro rear main seal (BS40032; 460 Ford) installed. Johnson/ Hylift hydraulic lifters (A-951) installed. Fel Pro engine gasket set utilized in assembly of engine (Sealed Power engine set: 260-1008, Cometic intake set: C5813-060).
Cylinder Head preparation:
Edelbrock Performer RPM cylinder heads (60529) are machined w/4 angle valve seats and fitted with Manley custom “Race Master” stainless steel intake (2.150”) and “Race Master” custom exhaust valves (1.710”) installed. Valves undercut to enhance airflow.
The heads receive “bowl and chamber” porting. This port work includes intake bowl porting, which includes dropping the short side radius and dropping the port floor. The exhaust bowl receives similar port work. The far side of the combustion chamber is relieved to unshroud the intake valve; chamber then polished. The cylinder heads are then milled .030” (71cc chamber results in 11:1 c/r)) then assembled with Teflon seals (Manley 24037). New HD valve springs (Comp Cam dual springs 995-16), keepers (Comp Cams 10 degree 611-16), retainers (Comp Cams 740-16) installed. The cylinder heads are installed using ARP head bolts (180-3600). The valvetrain is completed with Manley 3/8” x 9.800” (25980-16), Harland Sharp roller rocker arms (6005). Edelbrock Torker intake manifold (2730) and valve covers (4485) installed.
An AED 1000 HO carburetor installed. Performance Distributor’s HEI distributor, “live wire” set and wire looms; distributor “degreed-in” for 22 degrees in by 3000RPM plus 14 degrees initial resulting in 36 degrees total advance (not including vacuum advance). AC Delco high torque starter included. Miscellaneous ARP fasteners included, including the valve covers, intake manifold, carburetor mounting studs, water pump and timing cover.
January 1st, 2013, 05:43 PM
#4
Hot Rod Has Been
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 339
Just my .02 cents...
The cam is too stout for a daily driver... and I'm not so sure the Diamond pistons would be very quiet in a street motor... good stuff but not suited for a street motor since they have short skirts.
What's an AED carb?... not famliar with them... and, if it's 1000 CFM, it will be waaaay too big. Sound's like this thing was built for racing more than street use. (OK... I looked 'em up... modified Holley race carbs).
The problem with using a race motor for the street is they are cool at first but most guys get pretty sick of finicky, ill tempered, fast idling monsters after a short time.
If the price is right you could change the cam and make it work... maybe... if the price is right.
The cam is too stout for a daily driver... and I'm not so sure the Diamond pistons would be very quiet in a street motor... good stuff but not suited for a street motor since they have short skirts.
What's an AED carb?... not famliar with them... and, if it's 1000 CFM, it will be waaaay too big. Sound's like this thing was built for racing more than street use. (OK... I looked 'em up... modified Holley race carbs).
The problem with using a race motor for the street is they are cool at first but most guys get pretty sick of finicky, ill tempered, fast idling monsters after a short time.
If the price is right you could change the cam and make it work... maybe... if the price is right.
Last edited by krooser; January 1st, 2013 at 05:50 PM.
January 1st, 2013, 06:20 PM
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Long Island, NY (Home of Amy Fisher)
Posts: 84
Thanks......He is asking 7500, but I was going to see if I could get him down a few bucks.
I am looking at another 455 in pieces(Forged H-beam rods, Forged 11.5/1 pistons, N crank, balanced rotating assy. Mondello All Out C heads, Mondello cam, studded block Line-honed, never assembled).....for 5k) but I would need to put another 1500 into it and then a rebuild on my TH350.
Oh...what to do...lol
I am looking at another 455 in pieces(Forged H-beam rods, Forged 11.5/1 pistons, N crank, balanced rotating assy. Mondello All Out C heads, Mondello cam, studded block Line-honed, never assembled).....for 5k) but I would need to put another 1500 into it and then a rebuild on my TH350.
Oh...what to do...lol
January 1st, 2013, 07:26 PM
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Tinley Park, IL
Posts: 817
That's about how much it would cost to get it done if they were building it for you. Sounds like it was built, and then customer backed out? You should be able to get them down a fair amount. Or I'd suggest having an engine built to your specific needs, and you'll pay about that much for your engine.
January 2nd, 2013, 04:18 PM
#8
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
That's a great engine... but not for your purposes, I think, as set forth above.
For a 442 "CLONE" they should have done that on a G-400... or, better yet, a 425. Same money could have been spent on a big block.
The attention to detail sounds great.
For a 442 "CLONE" they should have done that on a G-400... or, better yet, a 425. Same money could have been spent on a big block.
The attention to detail sounds great.
January 13th, 2013, 01:36 PM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,552
Hmmm tough choice, if the trans has been rebuilt lets say your saving $800 - 1k off that price as that what it will cost to go through yours.. Yes that's a bit much for the street, but if they would knock it to say $3500 - 4k, trans included, they could keep that carb and manifold, and you can replace with something more streetable. Yes, your vacuum maybe a bit lower but I would be willing to bet that it will be enough to run some accessories.
They would need to stand behind the motor if I bought it.
They would need to stand behind the motor if I bought it.
January 15th, 2013, 11:05 AM
#11
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 488
I looked at that motor myself, 455, it was done by a fellow named Merkell I think. That cam isn't too much for the street, I am running an almost identical cam in my street car and love it. I seen what he was asking and it seemed a bit pricey for me but it does have some nice parts and looks great!
January 20th, 2013, 12:10 PM
#12
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 978
advice
My best advice to you would be to find a machine shop that specializes in Oldsmobiles. They do have specific needs. Try getting hooked up with BillT @ BTR Racing. He is the man who can deliver. A while back he was discussing a stroker short block for a street car that could be built for close to 5K.
January 26th, 2013, 07:11 PM
#13
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: central Indiana
Posts: 5,245
In my opinion the bearing clearances are too tight. Oldsmobile blocks and rods flex at elevated power levels, you need to have the bearing loose enough to allow the flex (or parts will "clearance" themselves!)if you expect the engine to live. If the engine has been assembled I would have serious concern.
The cam is probably OK for a sunny day car, but probably a bit much for a daily driver. It depends on how you feel about the "rumpity rump" idle. Get a good converter, that will help drivability. I'm running a Lunati cam with almost the same duration, there is no way you could mistake it for stock but runs power brakes just fine.
The cam is probably OK for a sunny day car, but probably a bit much for a daily driver. It depends on how you feel about the "rumpity rump" idle. Get a good converter, that will help drivability. I'm running a Lunati cam with almost the same duration, there is no way you could mistake it for stock but runs power brakes just fine.
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