ah64pilot

Hey all! I want to do my rear suspension...I changed my really big front sway bar out with the convertible. Now I have a stock sway bar up front and a Hellwig out back but the car wants to go sideways when I punch it. SO! I am contemplating a rear suspension overhaul that would replace everything but the lower control arms (SSM lift bars).

I have an order pending at Summit, I just want to know if there are any objections to what I am planning before I submit it.

BMR - Adjustable Upper Control Arms (because they don't utilize bushings on the frame side of the mount)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-UTCA022H/

BMR - Control Arm mount braces
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-RB002H/

BMR - Extreme Anti-Roll Bar, bolt on, frame mount
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-XSB006H/

Energy Suspension - Rear upper control arm bushing (differential bushing), polyurethane
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-3169R/

QA1 - Non-adjustable twin tube shock
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-TN801/

Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Steve

RetroRanger

Im no suspension expert but I think the 1 3/8 rear bar will not play nice w a 7/8 stock front bar

70Wcars

Non-adjustable rear shocks?? Hmmm... and my guess is the car is moving sideways with street tires, but you will be bolting on Slicks to race. You may need two different set-ups for street and race. What about a Drag Radial so you can set the car up one way?

Danny

380 Racer

I agree with Danny on the shocks. I had some adjustable Stocker Stars with the basically stock rear set up. I liked them alot. Yes, you need adjustment, front and back.

ah64pilot

Yes, I don't remember if I mentioned it to you on the phone. Since I changed that front sway bar the car is less predictable on the street. I know once it's got slicks on it won't kick out but I MAW get it all set up right. So you are saying change the shocks out to an adjustable one...ok.

Ok, question of the day...single adjustable or double?

Single adjustable (rebound only) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-TS801/

Double adjustable (rebound and compress) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-TD801/

380 Racer

My QA-1s are a coil-over conversion single adjusts and work very fine in the adjustment. When we do adjust them, it makes a difference in both compression and rebound. I think it's a percentage (?) thing. It's predetermined anyway.

I have double adjustable Strange coil-overs on the back. I like the way there are plenty of adjustments either way. I would also reccomend coil-overs front and back if feasible. Like them way better than the Moroso springs.

This is MHO of course.

ah64pilot

I am planning on doing the coil overs up front...but for now I want to get it going straight...so I'm focusing on the back. I would love coil overs on the back but I want this all to bolt on. I'll just stick with stock springs and double adjustable shocks in the back.

RandyS

This is an interesting thread. What is it about the stock setup that is causing the car to not accelerate straight? I assume that the car has a Posi rear end.........

The_Jeremiah

just my .02 cents, from drag racing my 69 cutlass. my suspension was no sway bars, lakewood shocks all the way around, adjustable upper control arms, but the biggest help was moroso trick rear springs. night and day difference, however if you have a posi vs a detroit locker, good luck getting the car to launch straight, all i ever use is detroit lockers due to the posi not working well at the track. this is just what worked for me. i was running 275 60 drag radials

ah64pilot

The car has an Auburn posi, and while it's not as bulletproof as a Detroit locker, it hasn't failed me yet. I have no reason to replace it as of yet, I'm sort of waiting to see what happens with the gears I have. I don't want to change them if I can go 11.50's with them. So that is a future endeavor.

I made a steel torque strap for the left front of the motor and it goes around to the outside of the frame. When I punch it, it is trying to plant the right rear tire (I think) and the body rolls right a little...it counteracts and then gets crazy, I'm not as confident in it as I was with the bigger sway bar up front. So that is why I'd like to address the rear suspension at this time. I might just do it all at once...we'll see.

oldsmoboogie

I just installed that very same rear bar and have yet to get to the track but i can say so far i love it! I am running the stock front bar 7/8 and dont have any problems on the street driving normal. You can definatly feel the rear bar working when you get into it. I had rear bags in to preload but got tired of messing with airing them up and down. I run edelbrock adj uppers with boxed lowers and comp engineering shocks also. What pinion angle are you planning on running?

jims2000lt

Adjustable shocks, airbags or anti roll bar. Dont waste $ on adjustable uppers if you allready have SSM lowers. Instant center should be where it needs to be. Box in the stock uppers.

joesw31

Steve,

This is how I had my 1970 W-30 set up:

Rear
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-2720/.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AIR-60844/

Shocks were adjusted to 50/50

Front:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-2600/

Shocks were adjusted to 90/10.

I used 1970 Cutlass springs up front without A/C and non-FE2 supsension.

I had great success with the above set up, and use to lift the front wheels and plant the rear tires. I also used stiffer control arm bushings in the rear arms and diff.

ah64pilot

Ok, per your suggestions I have revised my shopping cart...

BMR - Upper Control Arms (Non-adjustable)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-UTCA004H/

BMR - Control Arm mount braces
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-RB002H/

BMR - Extreme Anti-Roll Bar, bolt on, frame mount
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-XSB006H/

Energy Suspension - Rear upper control arm bushing (differential bushing), polyurethane
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-3169R/

QA1 - Adjustable twin tube shock
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-TS801/

Moroso - Trick REAR springs
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-47500/

@ Oldsmoboogie - I have SSM lower drag bars, they set the pinion angle so I am just going to use non-adjustable uppers. I was going to get the adjustable arms just because they don't have bushings at the frame side but even going to poly's is better than what I got. And for $119 they're much cheaper.

@Jim - I'm gonna do just that...I'll just get the uppers that aren't adjustable. One of the reasons I'm buying new stuff is because I got a BMR safety loop and the construction and hammer tone powder coat was amazing...and the biggest reason, it's all MADE IN THE USA. I think it'll look good to have all of the same BMR stuff up there in the rear...and it should work great! We'll see!

jims2000lt

I like the BMR stuff.
UMI is the same way. I got a set of drop brackets and frame braces for my dads 67 GS. It ran 12.91 and pulled the left front 2-3 inches.
Made in the USA is a good thing.

ah64pilot

And because I'm not doing the adjustable uppers I'm saving $200 Thanks for talking some sense into me Jim. I think I might go ahead and get the coil overs for the front haha!

Rickman48

'Back in the day', all you needed to get a A-body to go straight was 90-10's in the front, loosen the sway bar, and air shocks or bags in the rear, with the right side 10 lbs stiffer.
Didn't need to spend a ton of money, but then again we didn't have all those 'fancy' things out now, or the money to buy them!

ah64pilot

So at least I have a plan...guess it won't happen as soon as I thought. The warden broke a tooth tonight...guess I'll be spending my money at the dentist on Thursday. If it's not one thing it's another.

Last month it was all four tires for the Honda and a garage door repair. Last week it was a power steering hose for the Honda ($170 hose!)...and now this. Oh well...one day I'll get to spend more money on the car. Guess it's gonna be a couple more months.

SBORule

I would remove the front sway bar completely, don't need it in drag racing and it's a quick 20lbs off the frontend.

You might give that guy who makes Cal-Trac bars and call and see if he has any Ranchero RS-9000's that will fit the rear of your car, they're double adjustable shocks and much cheaper than Koni.

Doing the coil over conversion up front isn't really practical for a Street/Strip car and longevity will be marginal.

I wouldn't run 90/10 shocks on the street, 70/30's are better.

A nice set of aluminum rims will reduce your cars ET by atleast 1/4 second over heavy stock rims.

Doing wheelies looks cool but wheelstands break things and if your car is going up, it's not going forward. That's why winning Pro/Stockers leave the line with the front wheels barely off the ground, nowadays.

oldsmoboogie

I have a set of south side lift bars but they are not on yet and i was curious how well they worked. I have boxed lowers and adjustable uppers would i even benefit from them?

OLDSMORAT

You might ckeck out. Pmt fabrication.com. They are in dallas.
Here is a pic of the ones. I have on my 67 442 and my 66 ss. Super tough. And very adjustable. Cost about $625. But i'm very pleased with them.

ah64pilot

I like them...they work well. I don't know how much difference you would see but I have no problem hooking up at the track with them. That is why I am keeping them as part of my suspension package

64Rocket

I believe that the posi unit is the reason you are not leaving straight.

Gene

chadman

I would definitely run adjustable uppers. Without them your pinion angle is predetermined rather it be wrong or right (if you get lucky) it is what it is. I don't know how you like to drive your car on the street but I run 90/10's with no sway bar on the front without issues. I also realize it doesn't handle like a Corvette and drive accordingly.

Dave Siltman

Steve-what are your goals here? If you are looking for 60 foot improvement check your PM box for the set-up on my drag car. Believe it or not, my '69 has a 3-series carrier and ring gear spacer with the 4:33s. The slicks and stock axles combination is working but I'm probably testing fate. I do however use the C-Clip eliminator package. My torque isn't near what your's is and I'm "shocking" everything where you will most likely be "loading" it. My car rarely sees street use, but when it does it isn't all over the place. The technology in my car is on the "cutting edge of 1969"!!! and IMHO is as good as any out there.
If the others here are interested in my combo., just ask--I'll be more than happy to share it. Try going to a N.H.R.A. meet or divisional points meet and crawl under and talk to some of the better working stockers. I think you'd be surprised what really works and what isn't necessary or allowable per the rule book.