coppercutlass

I currently run the comp cams 280h in my current set up. the goal is to hit 12's atleast a 12.98 and it's getting retired. Im working on another 350 currently my rotating assmembly is at the machine shop. My question is how would the edlebrock rpm cam stack up against the 280h . I already have the cam i got in a parts deal. the reason i ask is . I now have a house and spending 200 on a cam if i can use the one have does not make sense to me . Will i see a gain in hp from this cam. The car so far ran 13.3 at 103. with a small carb and tight converter. this year i went with a 2600-2800 rpm but is closer to 3k rpm and to a 650 double pumper hping to get a 12.9 time slip this year. The whole point for me about asking this to try to not buy a new cam any input will be appreciated im trying to keep it ( IF ) its worth using it .

ah64pilot

The Edelbrock stuff is generic grind cheapo stuff. If I wasn't so lazy I'd look up the specs on the 2 cams you mentioned. Without knowing the specs those are just part numbers to me. Any way you'd care to elaborate so we can see the difference?

coppercutlass

the 280 h is 490 lift single pattern cam with 230 duration ay .050 lift on a 110 lobe sep. the edlebrock cam which is actually a lunati cam same specs as edelbrock is 496/ 520 lift 224/234 duration at .050 lift on a 112 lobe sep.

ah64pilot

I ordered an Engle 20-22 (.496/.512, 226/230 @ .050" on a 110) from Mondello for my convertible (stock build 455) and they sent me the exact cam you are referring to. It came in a generic white box...I sent it back. That cam is a generic grind made by ???

I know money is tight, but I would rather spend $250 on a known good cam than to waste the time and effort putting a generic cam like that in my engine. The Engle 20-22 made my stock 455 in high school go 13.001 ON STREET TIRES. I know with what you've got and running slicks it would serve you well. This is just my opinion.

coppercutlass

if i have to go to a custom cam i will. Im thinking solid lifter cam. or hyd. roller lifter.

70Wcars

Not disagreeing with ah64, but that little 224-234 cam has been around for awhile and I have never had an issue with one. Two cars down here ran them and both went low 13's to high 12's with pretty mild combos.

If you are on a budget, I like the extra lift of the 224-234 over the 230 cam. And the extra exhaust lift and duration help. Cam swaps being weekend deals, I would try it and save your $$$ you can always change again later.

Just my opinion...

Danny

coppercutlass

Thanks for your input. That's what I was thinking too . If it don't work out I'll swap it out later . At this point I think that's the way I'm gonna approach it.

Run to Rund

The cam you have will get the car into the 12s if other stuff is right. The cam you are considering will not solve any problems for you.

coppercutlass

I know I can get it in the 12's as it is. I'm building a new shortblock and I have that bracket master 2 cam I can use. My only concern was if using the cam I have in the box new will atleast perform like its is now. If it works ill use it. This new shortblock is more for reliability. My current short block was not meant to stay in the car this long. It is running good and strong still but with a new house having a back up will be nice since I won't always be able to keep things alive.

joesw31

The compcam that you have is similar to the w31 cam with the major difference being the lobe seperation. For the lunati cam, again duration at .050 very close to your current cam and again close to the W31 cam. However, the lunati cam has more lift, split duration, and may be able to build more cylinder pressure. If you have cam and lifters, then, give it a try. However, if you have to buy new lifters, then, I wouldn't consider the change.

If I remember correctly your car has 3.73 rear gear and it may not be enough gear considering your combination. You need a 4 series gear. I also remember that your heads are ported with large valves that kills the low end of your 350.


Just my own opinion.

coppercutlass

I rermember talking to you about my set up joe. My heads aren't ported. Just bowl work and big valves. I do have the cam and lifters already got them in a parts deal. You hear so many diffrent people say diffrent things about certain cams. I'm just looking for a little more input. Which I'm getting. Since no one wants to buy that cam I'm stuck with it so I might as well use it.

joesw31

However, the bowl work and the larger valves will kill the low end of your 350. I have been there.

Another idea would be to advance your camshaft 2 degrees and or install the lunati cam an additional 2 degrees advance.

SBORule

I think you should talk with Kevin Smith over on ROP or HPO, he knows what works and what doesn't. Your heads sound very much like what he was running, he ran 3.73 gears and a really loose convertor with a solid flat tappet cam.

I know his engine combo is over there in the engine combo category.

cutlassefi

Camshaft Machine, they make them for virtually everybody. Those are old GM performance lobes, I have those lobes in my Erson library as well. If you tightened it up and didn't have such a spread it wouldn't be so lazy.
That's the difference in your cams. That RPM cam will breath higher at the expense of low end grunt, blame the wider lobe sep and bigger stagger for that.
And your 280H was out way before they decided to make it a W31 replacement. The Magnum series of cams have been around for awhile and they were all single pattern from day one. That was the norm back then, no matter who ground them. It just happens to be similar to the W cam.

Jharken

High 12's with that comp 280 should be easy.

Converter will be the difference here IMHO.

I still have a 11"PTC 2400-2800 converter that would work for you're combo if you need a good one.

coppercutlass

I think I will take yóu up on that converter I will pm you or you can pm me. I work nights now so I'm not on here as much