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455 block prep and bearing clearance for street supercharger

455 block prep and bearing clearance for street supercharger

Old January 15th, 2019, 12:20 PM
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455 block prep and bearing clearance for street supercharger

I want to try the supercharger kit that Dick Miller is offering.


455 +.030 with ICON 887 pistons. Specs for piston to wall clearance is .0055-.0065. Torque plate honed.

This will be a street application with multiport EFI.

Edelbrock heads and a Performer intake manifold.

What should the rod and main clearances be? Will the mains need any other work outside of line hone/ARP main studs?
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Old January 15th, 2019, 01:41 PM
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Ultimate power level?
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Old January 16th, 2019, 02:33 PM
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I spoke with Dick Miller and he said that with a single unit at 10 psi, the maximum output would be 700 hp.

I am not looking for that much power. I asked if I could run it at 5 psi, he said absolutely but hes never ran a dyno test at 5 psi.

So based on that conversation Id like to see 550 hp. I mainly want the supercharger for the enhanced torque on the street.
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Old January 16th, 2019, 02:42 PM
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I'd strap it as well for that power level. Hope you're using good rods too.
Just an fyi, you can get stupid torque with a stroker kit as well. Just sayin ;-)
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Old January 16th, 2019, 07:05 PM
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Whats the largest stroke you can put in a 455 ?
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Old January 17th, 2019, 07:58 AM
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I believe a 4.8" stroke is out there.
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Old January 17th, 2019, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by VinMichael View Post
I want to try the supercharger kit that Dick Miller is offering.


455 +.030 with ICON 887 pistons. Specs for piston to wall clearance is .0055-.0065. Torque plate honed.

This will be a street application with multiport EFI.

Edelbrock heads and a Performer intake manifold.

What should the rod and main clearances be? Will the mains need any other work outside of line hone/ARP main studs?

My suggestions on block sizes based on success with our newly built engine:

-Rods .0025-.0027, with resized rods having a good crush on the rod bearings (re-size the rods on the low-middle of the stock spec scale) - We had to resize even brand new Eagle rods, even when brand new, they were above stock maximum size specs. This would have likely caused a spun bearing because of the lack of crush on the bearing halves from the rod big end. Also, expect to have to hone the wrist pin bushing on the rods to get them right, as they are usually way too tight when stock.

-Mains .003-.0035 with a straight block that has been line-honed and sized for middle range of stock bearing bore size. Run Sealed power 2/3 groove main bearings, not full groove bearings.

Run the rear grooved dura bond cam bearings, turn them where the oil feed hole is at 3 o'clock looking from the front of the block, run oil-restricted pushrods, run deep pan and high volume melling oil pump with the pink spring and no oil restrictors required. We had 66psi of oil pressure flat from 4200-up with very hot 20w50 Maxxima oil after lots of dyno pulls.

All of these clearances assume that you have an OCD crank grinder and block machinist who "corrects" whatever crank you have. You have to expect it to have flaws and issues, even if it is brand new, bright and shiny from any maker (except for a Bryant or Velasco probably).

Also, make sure and get enough clearance gapped on your top and second rings, don't run small gaps(less than .020), you will butt the rings and jerk the ring lands off the pistons... Boost is addictive, plan for more in the future!

We run .025 top/.028 second ring gaps, and there doesn't seem to be any noticeable crankcase pressure at all. I planned for boost or nitrous originally on our build, but we may not get to do that for a long time....
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