Can't decide
#1
Can't decide
I am in the process of repurchasing my 1970 Olds cutlass that I sold 15 years ago. As of right now it has a 350 olds motor original to the car in it that had a 2 barrel carb and was weak. I rebuilt it 15 years ago and added a performer rpm kit to it from Edelbrock. ( 600 cfm carb,Intake,cam,and lifters) Bored 30 over with forged pistons and double roller chain.It never really felt that strong to me probably based off the fact that I couldn't afford to do any upgrades to the heads?? At 17 years old due to money issues.
Now to my ?? I have several options I could take to get this car to be stronger.
1.) Ls swap... I have a 5.3 out of a 2003 gmc truck complete that I could install in the car.
2.) I have a sb chevy 350 sitting in the corner of the shed I could build for the project.
3.) The guy I am buying the car back from has a 1974 I believe 455 out of an unknown vehicle. That he will sale to me with the car for a reasonable price.
4.) Pull the original 350 from the car and finish the build the way I intended 15 years ago and replace the heads with a newer better version and upgrade to a 750 cfm or better carb.
5.) Purchase a chevy 454 crate motor with 450 horsepower ready to go.
My budget on this build will be around $8000 and that includes having to change out the rear end so I can get posi track as the one in it now is one legged. I would like to get a minimum of 400 horsepower out of whatever I go with and to be able to run low 12's high 11's by the time the build is done.
Which option do you think I would get the best bang for my buck on this deal?? Thanks
Now to my ?? I have several options I could take to get this car to be stronger.
1.) Ls swap... I have a 5.3 out of a 2003 gmc truck complete that I could install in the car.
2.) I have a sb chevy 350 sitting in the corner of the shed I could build for the project.
3.) The guy I am buying the car back from has a 1974 I believe 455 out of an unknown vehicle. That he will sale to me with the car for a reasonable price.
4.) Pull the original 350 from the car and finish the build the way I intended 15 years ago and replace the heads with a newer better version and upgrade to a 750 cfm or better carb.
5.) Purchase a chevy 454 crate motor with 450 horsepower ready to go.
My budget on this build will be around $8000 and that includes having to change out the rear end so I can get posi track as the one in it now is one legged. I would like to get a minimum of 400 horsepower out of whatever I go with and to be able to run low 12's high 11's by the time the build is done.
Which option do you think I would get the best bang for my buck on this deal?? Thanks
#2
I'm running close to mid 12's with my 355 there is 5k into my drive line but I built my own engone and built my trans and a good friend of mine rebuilt my diff. I built my engone with alot of left overs and hand me downs and swap meet parts. A sbo capable of running low 12's will cost imo 6k if done with all new parts and the shop builds it. Then you factor in 1500 for a good trans and converter and then the rear end appx another 1500. Just depends how you are going about it.
Edit: by driveline i also meant my engine is included in that 5k figure .
Edit: by driveline i also meant my engine is included in that 5k figure .
Last edited by coppercutlass; September 11th, 2016 at 04:03 PM.
#3
You didn't list swapping the 2.56 rear for something better. I know you had that listed as an upgrade at some point, but that crappy 2.56 rear will not play well at all with the RPM cam (.496 lift, 224º duration).
Back in the 80s I swapped the original 2.56 in my 70 Supreme (350-4bbl) for a 3.08 rear and it felt like I had a more powerful engine. Later I swapped the 3.08 for a 3.55 rear and again it felt like I had a more powerful engine.
My point is that you may get the power you wanted from the 350 with just a rear gear and maybe converter change.
Back in the 80s I swapped the original 2.56 in my 70 Supreme (350-4bbl) for a 3.08 rear and it felt like I had a more powerful engine. Later I swapped the 3.08 for a 3.55 rear and again it felt like I had a more powerful engine.
My point is that you may get the power you wanted from the 350 with just a rear gear and maybe converter change.
#4
Thanks for the reply. Yeah the olds 350 would be cheapest build for sure only 35k miles on it since I built it 15 years ago I would only have to pull it out freshen it up a bit and add the things I couldn't afford at 17... Heads better carb and such. would probably only be about 2k to get it done and ready and most of that would be the heads for it. Do you think once I did those couple things I would be hitting close to what I'm looking for? I have been almost strictly chevy since I sold the car so my olds knowledge has dropped off lol.If it will hit the numbers I want with the B&M TH350 trans and convertor I allready have and then adding $1500 to the rearend...say 3:73 posi??? then financially it makes the most sense for sure. If it will get me where I want to be.
#6
You didn't list swapping the 2.56 rear for something better. I know you had that listed as an upgrade at some point, but that crappy 2.56 rear will not play well at all with the RPM cam (.496 lift, 224º duration).
Back in the 80s I swapped the original 2.56 in my 70 Supreme (350-4bbl) for a 3.08 rear and it felt like I had a more powerful engine. Later I swapped the 3.08 for a 3.55 rear and again it felt like I had a more powerful engine.
My point is that you may get the power you wanted from the 350 with just a rear gear and maybe converter change.
Back in the 80s I swapped the original 2.56 in my 70 Supreme (350-4bbl) for a 3.08 rear and it felt like I had a more powerful engine. Later I swapped the 3.08 for a 3.55 rear and again it felt like I had a more powerful engine.
My point is that you may get the power you wanted from the 350 with just a rear gear and maybe converter change.
#7
My build is very basic . My car could probably hit low 12's if someone more talented with tuning tuned it for me. My car is all steel but i have lightened up some. trying to post my build. but my computer seems to not be complying.
#8
350 olds
.030 over 10 to 1 compression with speed pro flat tops
lunati voodoo cam 522/539 lift 233/242 @ .050 lift
#6 heads done by rocket racing ( no porting ) just big valves
edelbrock rpm intake
prw roller tip rocker arms
pro gear timing chain
proform HEI
holley 750 3310 carb
full length headers and x pipe with hooker aero chambers
I built the trans th350 with the B&M kit and im running a 3000 stall ebay converter
rear end has 3.90's ran 12.63 @ 105.79 with the 3.73's
.030 over 10 to 1 compression with speed pro flat tops
lunati voodoo cam 522/539 lift 233/242 @ .050 lift
#6 heads done by rocket racing ( no porting ) just big valves
edelbrock rpm intake
prw roller tip rocker arms
pro gear timing chain
proform HEI
holley 750 3310 carb
full length headers and x pipe with hooker aero chambers
I built the trans th350 with the B&M kit and im running a 3000 stall ebay converter
rear end has 3.90's ran 12.63 @ 105.79 with the 3.73's
Last edited by coppercutlass; September 11th, 2016 at 04:19 PM.
#9
350 olds
.030 over 10 to 1 compression with speed pro flat tops
lunati voodoo cam 522/539 lift 233/242 @ .050 lift
#6 heads done by rocket racing ( not porting ) just big valves
edelbrock rpm intake
prw roller tip rocker arms
pro gear timing chain
proform HEI
holley 750 3310 carb
full length headers and x pipe with hooker aero chambers
I built the trans th350 with the B&M kit and im running a 3000 stall ebay converter
rear end has 3.90's ran 12.63 @ 105.79 with the 3.73's
.030 over 10 to 1 compression with speed pro flat tops
lunati voodoo cam 522/539 lift 233/242 @ .050 lift
#6 heads done by rocket racing ( not porting ) just big valves
edelbrock rpm intake
prw roller tip rocker arms
pro gear timing chain
proform HEI
holley 750 3310 carb
full length headers and x pipe with hooker aero chambers
I built the trans th350 with the B&M kit and im running a 3000 stall ebay converter
rear end has 3.90's ran 12.63 @ 105.79 with the 3.73's
#10
Im closer to 370 hp on a good day. Im currently wrapping up a new 355 with fully ported heads By member 67cutlassfreak who is an amazing cylinder head porter . slightly more compression , Bigger cam, higher stall, single plane intake, full roller rockers , and lighter pistons and much better parts quality wise . Shooting for 12.00's maybe an 11.9x
#12
I think the simplest would be to stay Olds. You could also put in a 455 and without too much work on it get to that 400 hp mark. But I agree with the comment from Fun71 that the rear end gears will make a huge difference getting off the line and into that desired torque range. But that may also hit your gas mileage if you want to use it as a daily driver. It all depends on how you plan to use your car. John
#13
I think the simplest would be to stay Olds. You could also put in a 455 and without too much work on it get to that 400 hp mark. But I agree with the comment from Fun71 that the rear end gears will make a huge difference getting off the line and into that desired torque range. But that may also hit your gas mileage if you want to use it as a daily driver. It all depends on how you plan to use your car. John
#14
the LS swap is very expensive.ive done a few..they are impressive
if it where me ..since its not a 442 etc..id do it exactly the way i wanted..and not look back
seems likejunkyard 5.3a and turbo would be high on my list
then a 455 with a stick..the rest is just all the same old same old..in my opinion
if it where me ..since its not a 442 etc..id do it exactly the way i wanted..and not look back
seems likejunkyard 5.3a and turbo would be high on my list
then a 455 with a stick..the rest is just all the same old same old..in my opinion
#15
The ls swap is tempting I won't lie. I have pretty much everything I would need for it except for the oil pan headers and motor mounts. Especially since I could always go back to original if need be. Same with the 455 that's why I can't make up my mind lol.with the 455 I would need to completely rebuild the motor and buy everything else I would need.
#16
if ya want to do the LS swap do it..just dont do anything ya cant go back to..
you wont get a lot of support for an LS swap on an Olds board, but they are so much easier than they used to be..and they are really impressive in a car that gets the wheels driven off of it..11s with a junkyard motor and a medium size turbo is so easy as pie and dollar for dollar really cheap
i had bought and lined up LS motor swaps for all my old stuff over the last 10 years...but rethought it and putting olds motors in my olds cars buicks in buicks and pontiac in pontiacs...because the LS swap is too common.. and admit it..they are freakin ugly and generic looking in todays car scene
i have LS swaps for a couple cars i own like a 240z and a chevelle..but my olds are getting olds motors...its just a decision i like for myself
if ya want to do it..you dont need permission,,,youll nver get it here..
join LS1 tech and read around for a week then decide....JUST DONT BUY ANYTHING..ITS THE BIGGEST SCAMMER SITE ON THE PLANET...
you wont get a lot of support for an LS swap on an Olds board, but they are so much easier than they used to be..and they are really impressive in a car that gets the wheels driven off of it..11s with a junkyard motor and a medium size turbo is so easy as pie and dollar for dollar really cheap
i had bought and lined up LS motor swaps for all my old stuff over the last 10 years...but rethought it and putting olds motors in my olds cars buicks in buicks and pontiac in pontiacs...because the LS swap is too common.. and admit it..they are freakin ugly and generic looking in todays car scene
i have LS swaps for a couple cars i own like a 240z and a chevelle..but my olds are getting olds motors...its just a decision i like for myself
if ya want to do it..you dont need permission,,,youll nver get it here..
join LS1 tech and read around for a week then decide....JUST DONT BUY ANYTHING..ITS THE BIGGEST SCAMMER SITE ON THE PLANET...
#17
My only advice is that the person that foots the bills gets to make the choices. Its your car to do what you want. I have been down that road and have suffered the wrath of those who disagree. As stated above, the most economical route is to stay Olds, the easiest and least expensive of the non-Olds swaps is to go with a BBC and treat it like a Chevelle. The LS swaps are more complicated if your going with EFI and get really complicated depending on transmission choice. Best of luck with your decision.
#18
personally i dont think the sbc's and bbc's are cheeaper in any way. i just built a 355 sbc for a friend of mine and reusing the old domed pistons and just having the crank turned and new dar iron eagle heads and after odds and ends we where in it like 2400. We reused alot of the old parts.
#19
Well the LS is now spoken for since my 2002 Chevy S10 4.3 spun a bearing or something a couple hours ago. I will be putting the LS in it. I more then likely will be staying with the Olds 350 thats in the car for now as the S10 will have to jump to the front of the line since I drive it several days a week.
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