Thinking about going fuel injected
#1
Thinking about going fuel injected
I'm thinking about going to fuel injection on my turbo car. I want to do multiport/ direct port( whatever the correct term is) with my current intake. Thinking I want something with self learning and able to tune myself. Anyone have any experience or any suggestions. i have meth injection now so something that can control that would be nice also might consider running e85.
#2
The Holley hp efi seems to be in line with what I'm looking for. Anyone know anyone else with a similar product? Idk who all my options are, basically all I know of is Holley and megasquirt. Also I'd consider a tbi as long as the injectors aren't overtop the tb and it's a cheaper option.
Last edited by young olds; June 1st, 2016 at 09:07 PM.
#3
Mark (cutlassefi) does the most EFI work around here. I forget which product suite he uses now - his prior supplier (Accel DFI) killed their product line when Holley bought them up. He can provide a full solution and he knows the pluses and minuses of the stuff on the market.
TBI is cheaper, but most TBI systems don't have the same level of tuneability as multiport, and you still have the same air/fuel flow and mixture issues as a carb. TBI can be an improvement on a carb, but that depends on how bad the carb is - TBI is not necessarily dramatically better than a carb.
Decide how much you want to spend, then figure out how much tech you want. If you go multiport sequential, then you need a dual sync dizzy. Multiport batch and TBI can use standard ignitions. Then it falls to how much tuning and control you want in the system, and how you plan to get it tuned.
TBI is cheaper, but most TBI systems don't have the same level of tuneability as multiport, and you still have the same air/fuel flow and mixture issues as a carb. TBI can be an improvement on a carb, but that depends on how bad the carb is - TBI is not necessarily dramatically better than a carb.
Decide how much you want to spend, then figure out how much tech you want. If you go multiport sequential, then you need a dual sync dizzy. Multiport batch and TBI can use standard ignitions. Then it falls to how much tuning and control you want in the system, and how you plan to get it tuned.
#5
Here I am!!
Holley HP won't do E85, and quite frankly I'm not a real fan of their software.
I'd sell you a used Accel DFI if you weren't thinking about E85. But I agree with your strategy, especially with a blower. E85 has substantial benefits.
I'd do the AEM 508 Infinity. Wicked fast processor(400mips), Nitrous, boost control, E85 and multifuel capable, coil on plug, drive by wire and a crapload of datalogging capability. It's not self learning but because of the processor it'll run great right out of the box and it's very easy to tune.
Here it is with just a base tune in it,
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...d-monster.html
More info on the system;
http://www.aemelectronics.com/produc.../infinity-6-8h
It'll control your current meth injection as well. But you probably won't need that if you're going to run E85.
Hope this helps.
Holley HP won't do E85, and quite frankly I'm not a real fan of their software.
I'd sell you a used Accel DFI if you weren't thinking about E85. But I agree with your strategy, especially with a blower. E85 has substantial benefits.
I'd do the AEM 508 Infinity. Wicked fast processor(400mips), Nitrous, boost control, E85 and multifuel capable, coil on plug, drive by wire and a crapload of datalogging capability. It's not self learning but because of the processor it'll run great right out of the box and it's very easy to tune.
Here it is with just a base tune in it,
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...d-monster.html
More info on the system;
http://www.aemelectronics.com/produc.../infinity-6-8h
It'll control your current meth injection as well. But you probably won't need that if you're going to run E85.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by cutlassefi; June 3rd, 2016 at 06:48 AM.
#6
thanks for chiming in. i did look into the aem infinity series as well as megasquirt ms3, havent found anything else to look into yet. i havent decided how i want to do my ignition but distributorless for sure. i do have a ford edis system i was going to run with a megajolt that i never ended up using. id really love to go e85 but only two stations in washington with it and the one on my side of the state is 20min away so e85 is dependent on how much of a street car it stays. do you have any experiance with haltech? what kind of throttle body can i run with these? id like something that will be a bolt on replacement for a carb to keep my piping and throttle linkage simple.
Last edited by young olds; June 3rd, 2016 at 08:29 PM.
#8
I'll support it for a good long while, I have extra pieces as well.
Haltech is more engineering based, a bit harder to set up.
Might be good to start with an Accel or similar to get your feet wet, real easy to tune and will drive very well. Might be the way to go especially if E85 is only on the wish list.
Throttle bodies are all pretty much the same, linkages are as well. They mimic a carb for the most part.
#11
That would be a good choice.
No MAF, MAP only.
That's the beauty of the AEM, it'll work with a host of different sensors and injectors. GM, Chrysler, BMW, Honda, AEM, and a bunch of others. But your basic GM stuff from Autozone or Napa will work just fine. Throttle body just depends on what TPS and IAC it'll use. Most use GM stuff, no issue there either.
#12
If you can get e98 you can make your own e85. Ethanol can only be sold for a fuel as e98 has to be denatured with 2% of something otherwise it has to be taxed as a liquor. I started mixing my own e85 because of vast differences in quality. But good clean e98 is fairly easy to get in Nebraska.
#13
I won't tear the car down till this winter so I can continue to drive it but I would like to start collecting parts. What would you recommend for a tb, injectors and rail, fuel pump etc. I'm guessing sensors like temp, o2 etc are pretty generic?
#14
Work with www.diyautotune.com if you are considering MS3. I would suggest you look at the MS3 Pro instead of the older MS3+3X box if you go that direction since it simplifies wiring and gives you a better product for not much more upfront investment. Other than that just pick a system that will do what you want with the level of support you want. Play around in the software if you can before you choose, or at least watch some videos.
Depending on what coils you want to run you will need either logic level or high current control so just know which so you get the necessary peripherals.
Same for injectors - high or low impedance.
Many ECUs will require an outboard O2 sensor controller; the new AEMs have that onboard but only run the older LSU 4.2 sensor - not a big deal since they will sell you a sensor calibrated to their control circuit.
Do you want to run anything via CANbus? Just another thing to think about.
Fuelab makes great pumps with onboard PWM control.
For rail if you want to DIY you can look at Ross Machine Racing for the extrusions and bung inserts and then either make your own jigs/tooling or you can work with a local machine shop for the installation. Otherwise plenty of places will sell you an already-modified manifold. There is a guy on YB that makes fuel rail hold-downs that work on an Olds manifold but I'd have to dig up his user name for you.
For a throttle body don't cheap out, and don't get something with an oddball TPS. Lots of mainstream choices out there. I like Accufab's stuff. I personally prefer a stepper IAC rather than PWM but either can work well.
Lots of decisions for you to make.
Depending on what coils you want to run you will need either logic level or high current control so just know which so you get the necessary peripherals.
Same for injectors - high or low impedance.
Many ECUs will require an outboard O2 sensor controller; the new AEMs have that onboard but only run the older LSU 4.2 sensor - not a big deal since they will sell you a sensor calibrated to their control circuit.
Do you want to run anything via CANbus? Just another thing to think about.
Fuelab makes great pumps with onboard PWM control.
For rail if you want to DIY you can look at Ross Machine Racing for the extrusions and bung inserts and then either make your own jigs/tooling or you can work with a local machine shop for the installation. Otherwise plenty of places will sell you an already-modified manifold. There is a guy on YB that makes fuel rail hold-downs that work on an Olds manifold but I'd have to dig up his user name for you.
For a throttle body don't cheap out, and don't get something with an oddball TPS. Lots of mainstream choices out there. I like Accufab's stuff. I personally prefer a stepper IAC rather than PWM but either can work well.
Lots of decisions for you to make.
#15
http://aemelectronics.com/files/info...ison_Chart.jpg
Last edited by cutlassefi; June 19th, 2016 at 05:47 PM.
#16
Jump in
As mentioned not really an issue though. As you can see some 4.2's are still more accurate then the 4.9. The controller being used has a huge influence on speed and accuracy.
http://aemelectronics.com/files/info...ison_Chart.jpg
http://aemelectronics.com/files/info...ison_Chart.jpg
#17
I like that accufab has low profile tb's anyone else have those as well? There's a wilsons manifold tb on my local Craigslist, are those particularly good? Any other brands I should check into?
#18
Yes Wilson is good stuff.
Most all of them are ok, just have to check to make sure the throttle blades line up well and the throttles close like they're supposed to.
And thank you Jim, I appreciate the kind words. Glad it's running well.
Most all of them are ok, just have to check to make sure the throttle blades line up well and the throttles close like they're supposed to.
And thank you Jim, I appreciate the kind words. Glad it's running well.
#23
#24
Mark, aeromotive offers a regulator that can be used with carbs and efi by way of changing from a low pressure spring to a high pressure spring, does the aem 25-302bk offer the same thing? I only want to by a regulator once but I need one to work with the car till I go efi. Tried aem website but I didn't see anything about it
#28
I found the 044 - it has -8AN fittings (that sounds a little optimistic but I wanted to plumb the car once so everything is pretty over-sized). Drop me a PM with your address.
The Fuelab 529 electronic regulator setups are super trick, but only go down to 25psig so that's a no-go for a carburetor.
You also could look at a factory PWM controller like the Fords use depending on what ECU you choose but again, that won't help you interim.
The Fuelab 529 electronic regulator setups are super trick, but only go down to 25psig so that's a no-go for a carburetor.
You also could look at a factory PWM controller like the Fords use depending on what ECU you choose but again, that won't help you interim.
#30
I'm running the MS3Pro on a Flathead Ford right now and it has every capability you can dream of, software updates are free as folks design new gadgets. Easy to switch between multiple fuel and ignition maps for E15, E85, alcohol, whatever. BUT its one of the most difficult initial setups you'll find.
The FI Tech is the easiest setup you'll find, but its wet manifold (TB). Their customer support is second to none, and they do offer ignition control with boost applications. No power gain over a properly tuned carb, like any other system, until you get into individual cylinder trim (which they don't offer).
The FI Tech is the easiest setup you'll find, but its wet manifold (TB). Their customer support is second to none, and they do offer ignition control with boost applications. No power gain over a properly tuned carb, like any other system, until you get into individual cylinder trim (which they don't offer).
#31
I went with an accel ecu from mark, got a good deal and couldn't pass it up. Looking into injector bungs, injectors and fuel rails so I can start converting my intake. Any suggestions?
#32
Make injector bungs and have them welded in place. Any shop with a lathe can do that for you. Injector angle matters, so do some research. If you can point them upstream (or downstream), it can actually help keep the fuel suspended. We found 30-45 degrees into the airstream (tilted from 90) helps prevent fuel adhering to the opposite wall. That can also be avoided by using better injectors - that testing was done long ago and may no longer be valid with new spray patterns.
Ask Mark what he recommends. I would have used the FiTech system. Super easy, and the least expensive option overall. You can set it up as a blow-through if you want, supports up to 1200hp and distributorless ignition with laptop tuning.
Ask Mark what he recommends. I would have used the FiTech system. Super easy, and the least expensive option overall. You can set it up as a blow-through if you want, supports up to 1200hp and distributorless ignition with laptop tuning.
Last edited by distributorguy; September 2nd, 2016 at 08:55 AM.
#34
Some bad info here, I'll try to clear things up a bit.
Distributorguy - you can't have individual cylinder trim on an TB anyway, that's why they don't offer it. And I don't know of any modern day system that doesn't offer free software upgrades, and for most they're normally done by engineers, not privateers like MS. Accel offered free upgrades way back in 2002.
But glad to see MS is finally with the times. They were actually one of the last systems to offer something as basic as sequential, go figure.
Distributorguy/Marxjunk - injector placement doesn't mean squat if you're running in batch or don't have an adjustable sequential system. You can throw all that out the window unless you can adjust inj timing throughout the rpm range. And every system takes "wall wetting" into consideration. Ford had a "TAU" table back in the 90's that addressed that very issue. Plus there are other aspects to wall wetting than just injector placement.
Distributorguy - you can't have individual cylinder trim on an TB anyway, that's why they don't offer it. And I don't know of any modern day system that doesn't offer free software upgrades, and for most they're normally done by engineers, not privateers like MS. Accel offered free upgrades way back in 2002.
But glad to see MS is finally with the times. They were actually one of the last systems to offer something as basic as sequential, go figure.
Distributorguy/Marxjunk - injector placement doesn't mean squat if you're running in batch or don't have an adjustable sequential system. You can throw all that out the window unless you can adjust inj timing throughout the rpm range. And every system takes "wall wetting" into consideration. Ford had a "TAU" table back in the 90's that addressed that very issue. Plus there are other aspects to wall wetting than just injector placement.
Last edited by cutlassefi; September 2nd, 2016 at 10:20 AM.
#35
Since youngolds asked about bungs, I figured I'd bring up placement. You'll also note that I referred him back to you, since you sold him the computer.
There's no guarantee that engineers can get a system "right". Basic ignition components like Pertronix prove that. Sometimes engineers overthink non-essentials and miss the big picture. Like FAST who can't ever send the right electrical connectors in a package. And Pertronix who can't install a simple Zener diode.
If you want us to all stop answering questions (and bringing up more thought provoking topics), maybe you should be pro-active and help Youngolds so he doesn't have to come here to ask. Obviously he needs help with his system.
There's no guarantee that engineers can get a system "right". Basic ignition components like Pertronix prove that. Sometimes engineers overthink non-essentials and miss the big picture. Like FAST who can't ever send the right electrical connectors in a package. And Pertronix who can't install a simple Zener diode.
If you want us to all stop answering questions (and bringing up more thought provoking topics), maybe you should be pro-active and help Youngolds so he doesn't have to come here to ask. Obviously he needs help with his system.
#36
why would anyone build a system from scratch and not use sequential?
theres 300,000 pages about injector placement importance in a simple google search and they are all the same general consensus.."it does matter"..theres many reasons why....
any individual doing anything should do their own research and then determine whats right for their project.....opinions and advice are everywhere...i'm talking about looking at actual builds, people love to post their builds and read thru them and gain from the builders hands on experience...
wall wetting and puddling can be horsepower loss..carb or injection..why not do something to help avoid it or minimize the condition if you can? I mean if you are building an intake from scratch..do something to help yourself..you are spending the money/time/labor anyway..and try to maximize your situation/build..
theres 300,000 pages about injector placement importance in a simple google search and they are all the same general consensus.."it does matter"..theres many reasons why....
any individual doing anything should do their own research and then determine whats right for their project.....opinions and advice are everywhere...i'm talking about looking at actual builds, people love to post their builds and read thru them and gain from the builders hands on experience...
wall wetting and puddling can be horsepower loss..carb or injection..why not do something to help avoid it or minimize the condition if you can? I mean if you are building an intake from scratch..do something to help yourself..you are spending the money/time/labor anyway..and try to maximize your situation/build..
#37
Since youngolds asked about bungs, I figured I'd bring up placement. You'll also note that I referred him back to you, since you sold him the computer. Yes you did.
There's no guarantee that engineers can get a system "right". Basic ignition components like Pertronix prove that. Sometimes engineers overthink non-essentials and miss the big picture. Like FAST who can't ever send the right electrical connectors in a package. So you think an engineer/programmer is packing orders? Really? And Pertronix who can't install a simple Zener diode. That's one reason why I don't use their stuff. Imo it's junk.
If you want us to all stop answering questions (and bringing up more thought provoking topics), maybe you should be pro-active and help Youngolds so he doesn't have to come here to ask. I don't want you to stop answering questions, as long as you're giving the right answer. And he hasn't even gotten the system yet. But I will help him when he does. Obviously he needs help with his system.
There's no guarantee that engineers can get a system "right". Basic ignition components like Pertronix prove that. Sometimes engineers overthink non-essentials and miss the big picture. Like FAST who can't ever send the right electrical connectors in a package. So you think an engineer/programmer is packing orders? Really? And Pertronix who can't install a simple Zener diode. That's one reason why I don't use their stuff. Imo it's junk.
If you want us to all stop answering questions (and bringing up more thought provoking topics), maybe you should be pro-active and help Youngolds so he doesn't have to come here to ask. I don't want you to stop answering questions, as long as you're giving the right answer. And he hasn't even gotten the system yet. But I will help him when he does. Obviously he needs help with his system.
"Wall wetting and puddling can be horsepower loss..carb or injection..why not do something to help avoid it or minimize the condition if you can? I mean if you are building an intake from scratch..do something to help yourself..you are spending the money/time/labor anyway..and try to maximize your situation/build."
Wall wetting has little to do with any potential loss of hp. It will however effect drivability if in excess. But conversely it's needed at first startup
And puddling can happen anywhere in the intake manifold, so you may want to look further into the "Tau" theory. Let us know what you find out.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by cutlassefi; September 2nd, 2016 at 12:23 PM.
#38
Wow, thanks guys. I'm not coming back here because mark isn't or hadn't been helping me. I like to hear/get ideas from multiple sources, not that I don't trust mark I just like multiple inputs along with my own research. And yes I do my own research, I research things as a pass time, I enjoy it and learn in the process. This thread is to get ideas and input on what's out there, this will be my first time putting a fuel injected engine together so I don't really know where to start.
#39
drive-ability IS the reason to go to injection..weather its MPG..cruise ability or the opportunity to tune for max HP etc..do what you can to maximize everything you do..if you are building from scratch...and look at injector placement..i didnt want to start a debate..but if something good comes out of it ..so be it..
i read and saw the TAU theory years ago...its been around since the 80s..i was working in dealerships backthen and we had to keep up with continuing education...back then i enjoyed it.
heres the TAU theory explained very well on the megasquirt site..in simple terms for others looking at injection...the forst 5 paragraphs are the most interesting to me..talks about excessive wall wetting in there somewhere and the condition it creates and lightly talks about the solution.
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/xtau.htm
and i watched this video the first time in 2012...if you can stand the dryness lecture..it has a lot of good info
Last edited by marxjunk; September 2nd, 2016 at 03:33 PM.