1954 olds 98 starfire convertible parts wanted
#1
1954 olds 98 starfire convertible parts wanted
Hi all.
1954 oldsmobile starfire 98 convertible.
I need a manual (and other parts)
Manual for HYDRAULIC system- roof, windows, seat with wiring diagram.
Hydraulic control valve that goes under rear seat. Or a re- built one or a re-builder or, or, or???
Correct inner/outer sills/rockers both sides with correct channeling for cables etc if poss.
Bottom of firewall/flooring (where they meet), renewed floor but above flooring going up firewall is thin.
X 2 Throttle linkage for a 54 rocket 324 motor. Where the temp sender mounts in. Need 2 of these as
I have 2 total rebuilt 324's and both are missing!!
I need a load of decent bolts and probably some special ones too. Hard to get here in UK. Are there any "kits" available or basic packages?? Also would it be wrong to replace as many as poss with stainless or keep it "as was"?? Think I know the answer but stainless so much better!!!
Question/want. Stainless or mild steel exhaust??
Ill need a correct steel Setup if factory from manifold back over.
Can roof frame only be re-chromed by a total strip down and re build. If so where is best kit from??
Front/rear bumpers. Who is best. I have cores if needed or I may repair mine and get done here but how bloody good are chromers these days!!!
Do you know of kits that I could use? Any specific to this car? Brake line sets (proper ones) with correct fittings I can flare onto pipes/tubes. Also are these lines single or double flare?? ( cannot look at book at the moment as getting blood transfusion listening to brothers in arms dire straights).
I WILL need more lol. If you have done one of these, any pitfalls to avoid or "do it nows" I could/should take notice of!!
Thanks for reading and any help at all. Cheers steve
1954 oldsmobile starfire 98 convertible.
I need a manual (and other parts)
Manual for HYDRAULIC system- roof, windows, seat with wiring diagram.
Hydraulic control valve that goes under rear seat. Or a re- built one or a re-builder or, or, or???
Correct inner/outer sills/rockers both sides with correct channeling for cables etc if poss.
Bottom of firewall/flooring (where they meet), renewed floor but above flooring going up firewall is thin.
X 2 Throttle linkage for a 54 rocket 324 motor. Where the temp sender mounts in. Need 2 of these as
I have 2 total rebuilt 324's and both are missing!!
I need a load of decent bolts and probably some special ones too. Hard to get here in UK. Are there any "kits" available or basic packages?? Also would it be wrong to replace as many as poss with stainless or keep it "as was"?? Think I know the answer but stainless so much better!!!
Question/want. Stainless or mild steel exhaust??
Ill need a correct steel Setup if factory from manifold back over.
Can roof frame only be re-chromed by a total strip down and re build. If so where is best kit from??
Front/rear bumpers. Who is best. I have cores if needed or I may repair mine and get done here but how bloody good are chromers these days!!!
Do you know of kits that I could use? Any specific to this car? Brake line sets (proper ones) with correct fittings I can flare onto pipes/tubes. Also are these lines single or double flare?? ( cannot look at book at the moment as getting blood transfusion listening to brothers in arms dire straights).
I WILL need more lol. If you have done one of these, any pitfalls to avoid or "do it nows" I could/should take notice of!!
Thanks for reading and any help at all. Cheers steve
Last edited by 54Olds98convertible; January 15th, 2013 at 07:57 AM. Reason: pics
#2
I will warn you, restoring this car is nothing like restoring a tri-five Chevy. Nobody makes reproduction parts for it. Ebay will become your wicked friend. The shop manual is the first thing you will need. You should be able to find one on ebay but don't buy the first one you come to unless you sort by lowest price first. Fusick (http://www.fusick.com/) offers more than anybody and they are good guys. A subscription to Hemmings Motor News would probably be worthwhile. The Starfire is actually a little more common than the Super 88 convertible. Hope this helps.
#3
Hi. I have the standard workshop manuals but they don't cover the early hydraulic version of windows, seat, roof.
I have been to carlisle & Hershey fall swap meet in P.A a few years now and spent many 1000's with Fusick. I order and pick up from there stall. Also have a good look round too. Cheers Steve
I have been to carlisle & Hershey fall swap meet in P.A a few years now and spent many 1000's with Fusick. I order and pick up from there stall. Also have a good look round too. Cheers Steve
#4
Great to see someone saving one of these. I know that InLineTube makes the brake line kit for that in OE or SS.
www.hydroe.com may be able to help with your hydraulic controller.
I'm sure Tedd will chime in with some better convertible related info.
Tri-City in Tennesee is your answer for chroming, but you'll need solid cores - and shipping obviously is an issue for you.
Good luck and look forward to you posting pics of your project
www.hydroe.com may be able to help with your hydraulic controller.
I'm sure Tedd will chime in with some better convertible related info.
Tri-City in Tennesee is your answer for chroming, but you'll need solid cores - and shipping obviously is an issue for you.
Good luck and look forward to you posting pics of your project
#5
Hi. That will be hydro electric. Think they do a rebuild service but not sure if mine is too far gone. Ill try for a NOS if I can and get that tested and poss rebuilt before I throw a load of money into an old nackered one.
Hi hopes ah lol!!! But if your going to build it then do the best you can ah!!
Thanks Steve
Hi hopes ah lol!!! But if your going to build it then do the best you can ah!!
Thanks Steve
#6
I've got a 1955 parts car with a complete 324. If the throttle linkage is the same it would be available. Here's the best engine picture I have right now. It would be next weekend before I could get more if needed. John
P9221063_zps66428ec3.jpg
P9221063_zps66428ec3.jpg
#7
I have used Hydro Electric for my motor, pump, hoses and cylinders and they worked fine, Just make sure that the top is square to the body (not a parallelogram) or you will bend a cylinder shaft first time out of the box.
If you do your own rebuild or buy new top motor pump and cylinders replace or use hydraulic or power steering fluid rather than brake fluid. Most cars came with brake fluid but it retains or collects water and it's probably the reason your pump and cylinders don't work now.
As far as stainless or mild steel exhaust both last a long time, stainless would probably out last all of us.
On bolts fasteners, it would depend how far you intend to go on the originality thing, if a driver, no problem but if you will be showing your car in judged points type advents or plan to get top money when you sell stainless bolts won't cut it , you will lose points or dollars.I just think that if the bolts lasted 50 + years already new mild steel will out last me. On bolt kits I know of no package kits made just for a 54.
I'm not sure what a chromed roof frame is but if it needs to be chromed it will have to come apart. Are we talking about windshield frame?
I'm sure it would be cheaper to have your bumpers repaired and re chromed in your area, freight would be a killer from the States to the UK.
Are you doing a frame off or a frame on restoration? Pitfalls , they are still happening and its been almost 13 years since mine was put back on the road. Probably the biggest was under estimating the cost of the finished car, It came close to twice what I figured and budgeted for in the beginning. Another tip would be if it looks just good enough now it will look a lot worse in a few years ,better to do it all together and have it age the same. This pertains to painted items, chromed parts, plastic lenses and anything that will change and age with time.
Those are a few of my thoughts tonight I'm sure you will have many more questions as time goes by....Lost in the fifties Tedd
#8
Hi Ted. Cheers for that.
It's the top frame I meant. It's a roof I'm the UK!! Ill need a kit for it to take it apart. Who is best for this kit??
Think ill stick with steel bolts etc.
prob stock exhaust too.
its a Frame off resto.
Hoorah some answers & worthy opinions..... Great.
It's the top frame I meant. It's a roof I'm the UK!! Ill need a kit for it to take it apart. Who is best for this kit??
Think ill stick with steel bolts etc.
prob stock exhaust too.
its a Frame off resto.
Hoorah some answers & worthy opinions..... Great.
Last edited by 54Olds98convertible; January 16th, 2013 at 06:05 AM.
#11
#12
I still not sure what you mean when you say roof (top ) kit.My top was completely restored as far as replacement of fabric (new Top) and all the parts were bought individualy and I didn't have to dismantle the bows to do this, I did replace the rubber roof rail and slat pads along with the header seal but none of this came as a kit. I bought most of my rubber parts from Steele Rubber Products,Fusick or USA Part Supply, they all have almost the same inventory but shop around prices very from item to item and vendor to vendor. By the way rubber parts will shock you as far as cost, roof rails are over $400 now...Best of luck with your build...Tedd
#13
I have the valve for under the back seat
jerry@mr50s.com
jerry@mr50s.com
#15
Hi there. Please tell me more about the valve you have. I could do with a spare. How much is it?
Thanks steve
Handbrakeone@hotmail.com
Thanks steve
Handbrakeone@hotmail.com
#16
How about $250 shipped? UK zip ne32ls if you want to get a cost. USPS is ok. FedEx & ups are expensive. I normally go to Hershey/Carlisle swap meets but cancer has took it out of me the past year or two!!
Thanks steve
#17
I was thinking about that myself. Electric would be much easier in the long run I think. Is there a proper kit or did you get parts from a bother car??
How about $250 shipped? UK zip ne32ls if you want to get a cost. USPS is ok. FedEx & ups are expensive. I normally go to Hershey/Carlisle swap meets but cancer has took it out of me the past year or two!!
Thanks steve
How about $250 shipped? UK zip ne32ls if you want to get a cost. USPS is ok. FedEx & ups are expensive. I normally go to Hershey/Carlisle swap meets but cancer has took it out of me the past year or two!!
Thanks steve
#18
I'll check on shipping. Send me your shipping address for quote. I used Nu Relicks for the power windows. They bolted right in. I just needed to make a stop for the rear window and front for the lower. I had to drill one extra hole. Their wire loom and switches worked great. I am just getting ready for the top. Can you send me photos of where the pistons mount to the floor area. I had to put a clip on mine and all that was destroyed when it was dipped. Also pictures of the pistons mounting on top if you can. Just finished exhaust and start up. Thank you
Also please send me a few pics of the valve.
Thanks steve
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