WTB (Maybe) - '68 Type O 28 Spline Axle Shaft (?)
#1
WTB (Maybe) - '68 Type O 28 Spline Axle Shaft (?)
Hey all,
After reinstallation, I've discovered my driver's side axle shaft has a slight kant to it, out at the flange. My new brake drum rubs on one portion (about 110' worth of rotation) of the brake backing plate as the axle turns. I put a dial indicator on the outer edge of the lug flange and it looks to be about .155" off center. The axle shaft and backing plate were on the car when I bought it. In the meantime, I rebuilt the rear-end, installing anti-spin and new gears, new bearings, seals, etc.. I had marked the axle shafts upon removal so I know I have the correct/original shaft in it's original location. The old brake drums were mis-matched and/or out of spec, so they all went to the recyclers and I bought new for all four corners. When I media blasted and refinished the backing plate, I noticed some unusual wear damage, with a groove where there shouldn't be, and a ridge on the opposite side, again, where there should not be..The right axle rotates smoothly and doesn't make any noise. I know the car had been in a wreck on it's left side due to various indications including left fender replaced, left steering knuckle, brake parts, and drum replaced with Buick parts, frame has been on a rack, etc. i'm guessing the left axle was impacted at the same time. Maybe a curb crunch - who knows, now?
Should I just tweak the backing plate out of the way? Or do I need to replace the axle shaft? Or the shaft and the backing plate?
Thoughts? Suggestions? Parts for sale?
After reinstallation, I've discovered my driver's side axle shaft has a slight kant to it, out at the flange. My new brake drum rubs on one portion (about 110' worth of rotation) of the brake backing plate as the axle turns. I put a dial indicator on the outer edge of the lug flange and it looks to be about .155" off center. The axle shaft and backing plate were on the car when I bought it. In the meantime, I rebuilt the rear-end, installing anti-spin and new gears, new bearings, seals, etc.. I had marked the axle shafts upon removal so I know I have the correct/original shaft in it's original location. The old brake drums were mis-matched and/or out of spec, so they all went to the recyclers and I bought new for all four corners. When I media blasted and refinished the backing plate, I noticed some unusual wear damage, with a groove where there shouldn't be, and a ridge on the opposite side, again, where there should not be..The right axle rotates smoothly and doesn't make any noise. I know the car had been in a wreck on it's left side due to various indications including left fender replaced, left steering knuckle, brake parts, and drum replaced with Buick parts, frame has been on a rack, etc. i'm guessing the left axle was impacted at the same time. Maybe a curb crunch - who knows, now?
Should I just tweak the backing plate out of the way? Or do I need to replace the axle shaft? Or the shaft and the backing plate?
Thoughts? Suggestions? Parts for sale?
#5
Thanks, guys!
I'm going to do as Kenneth suggests and check runout with wheel and tire mounted, just for grins. Truth be told, I've decided I'm going to change out the axle shaft. There is just too much interference/rubbing going on. At the point where it rubs it gets very hard to turn by hand. It can be done, but takes some muscle. When it runs in gear (4-spd), with jackstands under the axle, when I disengage the clutch the wheel stops spinning almost immediately.
John, how much would you want for your axle shaft? What does it weigh, about 15 pounds? Shipping will be to 80134.
Rich
I'm going to do as Kenneth suggests and check runout with wheel and tire mounted, just for grins. Truth be told, I've decided I'm going to change out the axle shaft. There is just too much interference/rubbing going on. At the point where it rubs it gets very hard to turn by hand. It can be done, but takes some muscle. When it runs in gear (4-spd), with jackstands under the axle, when I disengage the clutch the wheel stops spinning almost immediately.
John, how much would you want for your axle shaft? What does it weigh, about 15 pounds? Shipping will be to 80134.
Rich
#6
Hi Rich
I just pulled the axle and am attaching photos here. There are some pits in the axle toward the wheel end. But I would be fine running this axle. I'm 99% sure I pulled this rear end out of a 1968 but just to confirm that I'm including a picture of the casting number on the pumpkin. I'll get a shipping estimate and price in a PM to you. John
I just pulled the axle and am attaching photos here. There are some pits in the axle toward the wheel end. But I would be fine running this axle. I'm 99% sure I pulled this rear end out of a 1968 but just to confirm that I'm including a picture of the casting number on the pumpkin. I'll get a shipping estimate and price in a PM to you. John
#7
Thanks, John, much obliged. I don't mind the pitting - it won't show! Can you tell/verify that it is still "true?" Tell me, is the cast number on the inner face of the flange 907033?
This is what came out of mine.
This is what came out of mine.
#11
Hey, John, No, I've not received anything email or PM since your note including "Zelle," which I did see, but did not respond to. Apologies if that is what you are referring to. Payday is tomorrow
#12
I did receive 2blue442's axle shaft, after it's whirlwind Cross Country Tour, courtesy of FedEx. It cleaned up well, and runs true. I installed it today and now find my suspicions were well founded: my OEM backing plate is tweaked in addition to the original shaft. So now, before looking for a driver's side rear brake backing plate, I'm going to get out the BFH and see if I can drive the outer edge of the backing plate inboard about .030"-.060" That should be enough to provide sufficient clearance. It does turn, just rubs and makes a light metal-on-metal scraping noise.. I'll mount my dial gauge to the axle flange and spin it around to find the high spot.
#16
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