need some sbo 350 parts
#1
need some sbo 350 parts
Hey guys I owe you so I need to buy some things from you..
- carb nothing fancy but needa to be runnable
- oil pum and oil screen
- intake bolts someone lost mine >
- water pump
- alternator
Last edited by billmerbach; March 10th, 2014 at 04:15 PM.
#4
I have oil pump, alternator, water pump and bolts. I have an old qjet carburetor, but not sure if it runs or not.
2 questions:
1. internally or externally regulated alternator?
2. what letters are stamped on your crank and water pump and power steering pulleys?
We need that information to find you the right stuff.
2 questions:
1. internally or externally regulated alternator?
2. what letters are stamped on your crank and water pump and power steering pulleys?
We need that information to find you the right stuff.
#9
ok good. the car cant tell the difference in blocks. use all of the 77 brackets and pulleys that came with your car. I have a water and oil pump, and intake bolts here for you. my alternator wont work for you.
#11
No, no, no. He's taking a Buick V6 out of the car, and putting a '70 SBO in.
He has no original X-body brackets.
He's got to experiment and see what fits and what doesn't.
Odds are that the '72 or '73-on bracket set used with both A- and B-bodies will work, but I'm not sure whether anyone who doesn't have a 260 Ωmega knows.
- Eric
He has no original X-body brackets.
He's got to experiment and see what fits and what doesn't.
Odds are that the '72 or '73-on bracket set used with both A- and B-bodies will work, but I'm not sure whether anyone who doesn't have a 260 Ωmega knows.
- Eric
#14
It'll plug right in? I mean without having to splice anywires ik I can hook it up to any dizzy but which one will be a put in and go kinda thing? Is that a clearer question? I can't really explain what I mean lol
#15
You need to get comfortable with wiring, soldering, and troubleshooting, because if you're going to be driving 40 year old cars, you're going to be doing plenty of it.
The low-voltage electrical systems on cars are susceptible to small amounts of corrosion causing enough resistance to make things not work, so all connections should always be soldered to eliminate this possibility. You need to keep an eye out for a decent soldering iron. For most of the work you would be doing on your car, a Weller pistol-type inductive heated unit is probably the best.
They look like this:
You can usually find them at yard sales and flea markets for about $5, often unused, and sometimes in cases with solder, flux, and spare tips.
Soldering is quick and easy, and will need to be done whenever connecting any tachometer in any car, if you're doing it correctly, no matter what kind of distributor it has in it.
Any tachometer made in the last forty years will have four wires that need to be connected: One to a +12v source that is on when the ignition is on, and off at other times, one to the dash light circuit, one to ground, and one as a sensor, to the ignition system.
The only difference between points and HEI when connecting a tach is that on a points system, you solder a ring terminal on the sensor wire and connect it to the (-) terminal post on the coil, while on and HEI system, you solder a ¼" female spade connector on the sensor wire and plug it into the "TACH" terminal on the HEI.
Does that answer your question?
- Eric
#23
Ok hei is taken car of so is carb and hopefully oil pump still need intake bolts a harmonic balancer an alternator and I believe that's it
#25
Email me a pic and price please to billmerbach@gmail.com
#31
I also have an original V6 Omega SX with a gauge pkg dash. Does anyone know if the factory tach is switchable for # of cylinders? I've never had it out of the car, so haven't seen the back of it. I'd like to have it functional with the V8 swap if possible.
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