1968-69 Vista Cruiser/Cutlass Cruiser parts needed
#1
1968-69 Vista Cruiser/Cutlass Cruiser parts needed
I'm looking for a few things for my flat top wagon,
Nice rear door panels, 4 door may work. Vista will not.
Nice driver's side tail light and back up lenses.
That's it for now. Will add later.
Nice rear door panels, 4 door may work. Vista will not.
Nice driver's side tail light and back up lenses.
That's it for now. Will add later.
#3
Matt,
Are you looking for strictly stock door panels? I have a '69 4 door parts car that had custom front & rear door panels made. They are white & bright yellow.... but they are nice, or at least I think they are.
Are you looking for strictly stock door panels? I have a '69 4 door parts car that had custom front & rear door panels made. They are white & bright yellow.... but they are nice, or at least I think they are.
#5
Here is pictures of the door panels in my 68 4 door parts car.
Larry
lemoldsnut@aol.com
541-815-4363
Larry
lemoldsnut@aol.com
541-815-4363
#8
1968/9 Flat top interior parts
Hi rktolds: I have a small idea for you. It is not perfect or the best, but an option. It would be nice to find a color matching original style set of Olds door panels. It surprised me, but OPG offers Distinctive Industries new repro front and rear door panels in your choice of colors. The catch is that they are listed from the Chevelle catalog for either 68/69 Chevy wagons with the color choices for those cars along with their interior styles. You could check with them to see if they offer the Olds patterns now , but don't hold your breath. (800)-243-8355 is their number. They have different part numbers for both 68 and 69 Chevelle wagons. Either year front or rear are the same price for a set of two $165.79. You might want two sets to have a new interior which is $330.00 something plus tax and shipping. Like I said, not the best but you could order matching seats, headliner and door panels for your flat top and have a new interior with a choice of colors just the wrong lines and designs. For a resto mod, it would be nice; however, judged at an OCA events it might not look so good. Just an idea, we like to exchange ideas on this site. Best of luck with the wagon!! Regards, Trent in Los Angeles.
#9
Thanks for that info. I've read where the headliner is available for Chevelle wagons. This car will be a cool cruiser so using available repro parts isn't a bad idea. It could help the budget.
Matt
Matt
#10
1968/9 Flat top interior parts
Hi Matt: You are most welcome. This is such a great site. Plus, in 7 years if either your front seat or driver door panel gets damaged, it might be easily replaceable. Only Olds collectors will know the interior style difference and I am not talking if I see your car at a show! It would be nice to have an all new interior. They also have foam for the seats and other interior trim parts. I don't think you will find much for blade headrests for bench seats. Regards, Trent in Los Angeles
#13
Update and Cautionary Tale
Hello everyone,
First thanks for everyone's advice on my engine issues.
I decided to not do the rebuild but instead took the whole engine bay apart leaving the engine intact. With everything out, I was able to clean the engine, remove the exhaust flapper in the driver side manifold and go through all of the wiring. On my detailing, I made sure both ground straps to the engine were reestablished. New battery cables and all new radiator hoses.
After getting everything back together, I checked the timing and it was about 6 to 8 degrees. The car ran ok, but continually kept getting worse. It started to really hesitate on acceleration. Ughhhh!
After getting the engine good and hot, I wanted to check timing and vacuum and I saw this by cylinder 5.
A little pool of oil and with the engine off, I noticed a little bubble at the the intake/head gasket in this area. I checked the vacuum and it held 21 inches steady. I checked the intake bolts and I was able to tighten about three of them around #5 cylinder. I checked vacuum and timing again and adjusted the timing a little to get 7.5 degrees. Went out for a drive and major hesitation on acceleration still happened. The only good news was that the intake oil issue disappeared. Frustrated I gave in and gave the car to my mechanic friend.
He felt the hesitation and checked timing. He told me it was way off. I told him that I had just checked it and it was at 7-8 degrees. He told me when he tried to bring it into correct timing, it would barely run. He also noticed that the harmonic balancer seemed to have a little wobble to it. So he decided to find TDC and the the balancer mark was no where near zero. He set the timing by ear and the car ran great.
So there you have it. The ring on my balancer must be loose and has spun out of TDC. God only knows how long I've been running with the timing off thinking if was set. So I got a new balancer from Speedway
Here is the new balancer. Not an exact reproduction unit, but all the major dimensions are the same.
Here they are on top of each other with the key-ways matched and you can see that the timing marks do not match. So I installed it and knock on wood, it is running better than I have ever had it.
So, this is one to remember, check TDC when timing!
Jim
First thanks for everyone's advice on my engine issues.
I decided to not do the rebuild but instead took the whole engine bay apart leaving the engine intact. With everything out, I was able to clean the engine, remove the exhaust flapper in the driver side manifold and go through all of the wiring. On my detailing, I made sure both ground straps to the engine were reestablished. New battery cables and all new radiator hoses.
After getting everything back together, I checked the timing and it was about 6 to 8 degrees. The car ran ok, but continually kept getting worse. It started to really hesitate on acceleration. Ughhhh!
After getting the engine good and hot, I wanted to check timing and vacuum and I saw this by cylinder 5.
A little pool of oil and with the engine off, I noticed a little bubble at the the intake/head gasket in this area. I checked the vacuum and it held 21 inches steady. I checked the intake bolts and I was able to tighten about three of them around #5 cylinder. I checked vacuum and timing again and adjusted the timing a little to get 7.5 degrees. Went out for a drive and major hesitation on acceleration still happened. The only good news was that the intake oil issue disappeared. Frustrated I gave in and gave the car to my mechanic friend.
He felt the hesitation and checked timing. He told me it was way off. I told him that I had just checked it and it was at 7-8 degrees. He told me when he tried to bring it into correct timing, it would barely run. He also noticed that the harmonic balancer seemed to have a little wobble to it. So he decided to find TDC and the the balancer mark was no where near zero. He set the timing by ear and the car ran great.
So there you have it. The ring on my balancer must be loose and has spun out of TDC. God only knows how long I've been running with the timing off thinking if was set. So I got a new balancer from Speedway
Here is the new balancer. Not an exact reproduction unit, but all the major dimensions are the same.
Here they are on top of each other with the key-ways matched and you can see that the timing marks do not match. So I installed it and knock on wood, it is running better than I have ever had it.
So, this is one to remember, check TDC when timing!
Jim
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April 18th, 2017 11:23 AM