Rattle Can Advice Needed
#1
Rattle Can Advice Needed
I'm going to eventually repaint my 1982 Cutlass Calais, as it is a dated shade of blue, and I can only afford a rattle can paint job. Does anyone have advice for making it look halfway decent? Following the lines of the 82 Cutlass Coupe, I'm thinking white on the roof, hood, and trunklid, as well as the lower doors/rocker panels, with gold wrapping the sides and grille/bumper with a 1/8" silver stripe dividing the gold and white. Basically the opposite scheme of the 1979 H/O. Any advice is greatly appreciated
#4
Well, I've actually done that when I was young and poor, as opposed to now being old and poor, lol! Is there any way you can borrow a little compressor and a cheap spray gun? I'm thinking spray cans are gonna take a lot, and you can get some generic automotive paint for about $75-$100.
Last edited by Jetstarjim; September 4th, 2014 at 04:22 PM. Reason: can't spell anymore
#5
You can not paint automotive paint over spray can paint same goes for cheep repaints, cheep paint is just that cheep.
Automotive paint should be sprayed in a paint booth wearing the appropriate safety gear.
Every time I see home spray booths in car magazines I think they are being very irresponsible automotive paint belongs in a down draft booth!
Automotive paint should be sprayed in a paint booth wearing the appropriate safety gear.
Every time I see home spray booths in car magazines I think they are being very irresponsible automotive paint belongs in a down draft booth!
#7
I'm about four hours from a decent paint paint/body place so a home job is the best I can do. I'm also not going to put what I paid for the car into the paint. The cheapest possible way is the way I'm going
#9
#10
Here yo go, there is a ton of info on the web if you google
"Rustoleum Paint Job"
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/b...get_paint_job/
"Rustoleum Paint Job"
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/b...get_paint_job/
#11
#12
You know you can buy rustoleum in quarts, I used it on my frame and it looks great. Its enamel paint which is really very durable. If you have access to a spray gun you could use the quarts. It comes in gloss white and i do believe they have gold. I think Lowes and maybe Walmart sell it. With a little time and patients you could have a decent looking paint job. You reduce it with acetone i believe, It really sprayed well on my frame. Ill probably use PPG on the body, but for a frame this was good enough for me. Save some bucks!
#15
I forgot to mention I did use a very good PPG epoxy primer under the paint on the frame which will of course make the paint adhear much better. Maybe primer is not in your budget, just be sure the car is clean wash it really good, I use dawn dishwashing liquid, and use some prep sol if you can to wipe it down before you spray to get oils and silicones off.
Good luck
Good luck
#16
You can probably paint that car with about $150 to $200 worth of rattle cans.
The trick is to use good quality rattle-can paint, and paint it just the same way you would if you were using good paint.
- Eric
The trick is to use good quality rattle-can paint, and paint it just the same way you would if you were using good paint.
- Prime everything before painting, using a primer suited to the topcoat you'll be using.
- Wet sand the car properly first, and do any rust or dent repairs properly.
- Use a good quality filler and glaze.
- Wet sand appropriately between coats and activities.
- Take plenty of time - remember that rattle-can paint takes longer to cure than modern automotive paints. Until is is good and dry, you can't sand it, and until it is fully cured, you can't rub it. Also, fillers, etc., as well as all of the layers of paint, have to fully dry and contract or the edges of your repairs will become visible as they do.
- Use a pistol-grip can holder for better control and less fatigue.
- Some cans will have spray nozzles that work better than others. Keep the good ones and reuse them.
- Shake the each can like crazy before you use it, and keep shaking it as you go.
- You may need to avoid using the very bottom of the can, which may be less than perfectly mixed, in spite of your best efforts.
- Be careful to keep large surfaces wet as you paint them, because rattle can nozzles have poor patterns with lots of peripheral spray dust.
- Accept the fact that no matter what you do, each can will probably be a slightly different color - plan your coverage accordingly.
- Also accept the fact that this paint will not be as durable as the "real thing."
- Carry a few spare cans in the trunk, in case of "paint emergencies.
- Eric
#17
Originally Posted by [LIST
[*]Carry a few spare cans in the trunk, in case of "paint emergencies.[/LIST].
- Eric
- Eric
I know you reside in Maine but in Texas or Nevada you don't store pressurized cans in the trunk. I had a spray can exploded one hot summer day and made quite a mess.
Henry
#18
Yeah. Never heard of that happening around here. People keep all kinds of spray cans in their trunks.
But if you live in Hades, then, yes, don't leave spray cans, explosives, or ammunition in the car.
- Eric
#19
#20
If you don't plan on re-painting paint it with spray cans or other.
The reason I caution you about cheep paint is because you will have to go to bare metal if you decide to re-paint.
I have seen cars come into the body shop with $200 dollar paint, striping to bare metal was the only option.
The reason I caution you about cheep paint is because you will have to go to bare metal if you decide to re-paint.
I have seen cars come into the body shop with $200 dollar paint, striping to bare metal was the only option.
#21
#22
What about one shot paint ? I painted a few cars years ago I bet you can get a harbor freight paint gun and a gallon plus the reducer for less then 300?
I don't think it's the best paint in the world but mine looked good for 5 years before the paint faded on top.
Painted 12 years ago for cost me 150
865FFFBF-92BA-459D-A6A1-278188986CC9-4941-00006814C9FD9D5F.jpg
E7696FBE-B0C5-4E9C-BC86-0D3D30A675D6-4894-000068095023B5D8.jpg
Wasn't bad for my first paint job I painted three cars totall before I decided I would leave it to the pro this time around
I don't think it's the best paint in the world but mine looked good for 5 years before the paint faded on top.
Painted 12 years ago for cost me 150
865FFFBF-92BA-459D-A6A1-278188986CC9-4941-00006814C9FD9D5F.jpg
E7696FBE-B0C5-4E9C-BC86-0D3D30A675D6-4894-000068095023B5D8.jpg
Wasn't bad for my first paint job I painted three cars totall before I decided I would leave it to the pro this time around
#24
I did that once too on the Green '46 in my picture gallery. I think it actually turned out half decent. Compared to the inconsistencies in color and coverage you get with rattle cans there wasn't much difference using small diameter foam rollers. The paint was a semi-gloss enamel that I got from someplace like Tractor Supply. My buddy helped me out and we finished it in a few hours on a cool fall day. By the time we finished it was still daylight and we were sitting in lawn chairs appreciating the drastic change from a few hours earlier and drinking a cool beer.
#25
Basic prep.
wash car
wax and grease remover
scuff paint with scotch bright pads
hose off car
wax and grease remover
Car has to be DRY before you use the wax and grease remover!!!!!
Old car paint contains lead wash off water will contain lead follow lead paint handling,best practices guide lines/rules/safety/disposal!
Wax and grease remover follow manufactures safety recommendations, handling and disposal recommendations as well.
wash car
wax and grease remover
scuff paint with scotch bright pads
hose off car
wax and grease remover
Car has to be DRY before you use the wax and grease remover!!!!!
Old car paint contains lead wash off water will contain lead follow lead paint handling,best practices guide lines/rules/safety/disposal!
Wax and grease remover follow manufactures safety recommendations, handling and disposal recommendations as well.
Last edited by Bernhard; September 5th, 2014 at 07:57 AM.
#29
I've done some rattle can painting at in my home paint booth. For larger projects we use a spray gun. I put up plastic to keep the over spray in one bay. Also the pressure was turned down for less over spray. Luckily my neighbors haven't complained yet. Spray cans dont seem to cover very well. Again, clean everything very good and make sure the surface is scuffed up enough to hold onto the new paint. Temperature and humidity make a difference also.
#30
I certainly can't criticize anyone for a rattle can paint job. If anyone knew the number of his/hers shifters, distributors, factory air firewalls hacked, and whatnot, I'd be banned from CO. The definition of a "survivor car" to me, is one I hadn't gotten ahold of when I was young. Of course I'm paying for it now, though, lol!
#31
The best rattle jobs are matte or flat colors, hard to do colors and have each can blend into the one before. Do a harbor frieght purple HVLP gun and enamel tractor paint for less then 200, if you have compressor. If not, its yours, go for it. I would at least buy one of those sprayer things made to go on a can and give you a squeeze trigger. Makes it easier on your finger.
#32
Brush paint it with exterior latex paint. I'd have to do some searching to find it again but I once ran across an article on the web about a guy who painted his car with a brush and exterior latex paint. Basically it was paint on a coat, let it dry and sand. Then paint a coat, let it dry and sand, repeat. I know it's hard to tell from computer pictures but it didn't look half bad. I want to say he put six or seven coats on it, which means a lot of sanding, but it was pretty low cost.
Scott
Scott
#33
I just used a few cans of rustoleum on my rims a month ago. Sanded down the rims the best I could, completely cleaned and degreased and primer/paint. Cost about $20 bucks and in my opinion made a world of difference on the look of the car.
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