Cost of paint/reducer/hardner etc...
#1
Cost of paint/reducer/hardner etc...
I need to know has anyone ever purchased their own paint and the things that go with it and had it in hand when they arrived at the paint shop or is the best thing to do is drop it off and let them have at it.
#2
yeah a good primer set up with reducer you are looking at 250+ paint can vary depending on color and the heus ad pears metallics it has. my paint cost me 450 back in 2007, clear coat i used dupount clear and that cost 150 for the set up. It all comes down to the quality of material you want. You can buy a paint kit from kirker with primer paint clear sealer etc. for 200 and you have 200 color choices but al generic colors not o.e.m.
#4
Cost for paint/reducer/hardner etc..
Thanks guys... I just left this place called single source and they carry ppg products the guy told me i need 3 quarts of paint one gallon of reducer one gallon of clearcoat and i quart of hardener and he gave me a price of 570.00 bucks so i think that is a good price. My color is saturn gold the original gold he said i wouldnt need a gallon of paint because its a convertible.
#5
Yeah, but you might want to get a gallon in case of unforeseen "events."
Like if you get into a feder bender two years from now - you can never perfectly match metallics, but if you've got a quart stashed away in an appropriate small, airtight container, you're golden.
- Eric
Like if you get into a feder bender two years from now - you can never perfectly match metallics, but if you've got a quart stashed away in an appropriate small, airtight container, you're golden.
- Eric
#6
Yeah, but you might want to get a gallon in case of unforeseen "events."
Like if you get into a feder bender two years from now - you can never perfectly match metallics, but if you've got a quart stashed away in an appropriate small, airtight container, you're golden.
- Eric
Like if you get into a feder bender two years from now - you can never perfectly match metallics, but if you've got a quart stashed away in an appropriate small, airtight container, you're golden.
- Eric
By the way, how many cans did you use.
#8
Btw eric hit the nail right on the head. You always want spare paint. Or you will get what happened to me . After I crashed my car the paint I had settled and the metallics turned rock hard at the bottom of the can. Ppg gave me the correct paint but it was just a bit lighter. I didn't feel like paining the side so I just made my own ghost flames with the lighter paint lol.
#9
#10
#13
you buy, or they supply..
Maybe i misunderstood the question, but most places i have dealt with i have supplied paint etc, and they spray-last one was 500 plus paint which was 380. It seems to be the best way as long as you have time to run around and get the stuff!
#14
You might save some money. You gotta remember when you do that the shop will then nickle and dime you for everything else. Tape, paper, hazzardous waste charge, and other stuf they have unique was to jack up cost. We used to do it all the time to get more money from the ins. Companies.
#15
I think you want to discuss this w/ the shop you intend to use. I personally would not spray a product that we didn't normally use in the shop. Chances are it would work out OK but lack of familiarity w/ the product would bring a large disclaimer regarding results, appearance, etc signed by customer, written on the RO. If my painter didn't all but trip & fall into the wet clear, you would be takin what yer gittin for a finished job. That is not to be a dick, it is because the painter likely has no idea what the application characteristics are.
IMO you would be better off paying the shop what is reasonable for their normally applied paint line even if it costs a little more just because the outcome is more certain, assuming they are using a quality/high end paint. The biggest issue w/ resto/repaint work is - when do you stop? By that I mean how far do you go w/ each step of the process? If a higher end body & paint job is what you're after, a potential couple hundred bucks that could make or break the most prominent aspect of the car's appearance is money well spent, arguably invested. But a few hundred in materials, maybe one more reprime & block, etc can turn into a couple of grand extra. Where do you stop? Just be conscious of your goals & budget, then proceed accordingly.
I hope you car comes out looking great & you are doing the right thing by thinking options through, just be sure to consult w/ your shop before pulling any triggers.
IMO you would be better off paying the shop what is reasonable for their normally applied paint line even if it costs a little more just because the outcome is more certain, assuming they are using a quality/high end paint. The biggest issue w/ resto/repaint work is - when do you stop? By that I mean how far do you go w/ each step of the process? If a higher end body & paint job is what you're after, a potential couple hundred bucks that could make or break the most prominent aspect of the car's appearance is money well spent, arguably invested. But a few hundred in materials, maybe one more reprime & block, etc can turn into a couple of grand extra. Where do you stop? Just be conscious of your goals & budget, then proceed accordingly.
I hope you car comes out looking great & you are doing the right thing by thinking options through, just be sure to consult w/ your shop before pulling any triggers.
Last edited by bccan; June 21st, 2012 at 06:07 PM.
#16
X2 with bccan not only will the give you a gaurantee but they will treat you better. If you bring your own stuff the gaurantee ends at their drive way and the job may not be the best.
#18
So I probably paid around $150 for paint, total, which beats the living crap out of $800, plus thinners, reducers, activators, etc., for a car that's not even worth a grand.
- Eric
#19
Yes, but you were buying high-quality, color-matched paint made for cars - I was buying cheap off-the-shelf paint at Lowe's. It was about $4.00 a can, I think some were more like $3.50 because I caught them on sale.
So I probably paid around $150 for paint, total, which beats the living crap out of $800, plus thinners, reducers, activators, etc., for a car that's not even worth a grand.
- Eric
So I probably paid around $150 for paint, total, which beats the living crap out of $800, plus thinners, reducers, activators, etc., for a car that's not even worth a grand.
- Eric
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