Rustbucket2

Do you think it is ok to use spray can primer for spot repair areas? I have my car in epoxy primer now. but fixing damaged areas I have gone through the epoxy primer to metal. I will still primer car in a high build primer and sand , then will seal before paint. Look forward to your input

seansolds

U-POL acid #8 in a rattle can works, it is a metal etch primer. Look it up on Amazon read the description for your needs. Several different colors to match your base coat. I used it on my Plymouth.
Hope this helps.
Sean

m371961

Eastwood has a epoxy primer in a spray can, do not know how good it is.

coppercutlass

just buy good stuff. UPOL is good Transtar is good from the professional economy end. Dupont ( axalta now ) sells many spray can produts that are good. SEM by far has the widest and best selection of spray can products. Like their DTM EZ coat.

Eastwood is very expensive rebranded stuff. learned this first hand. went to the store in ALSIP and spent more than if i had bought name brand stuff online shipped to my door or going to my local supply store. Autobody tool mart which is in my home town ships and TP tools also has by far the best bang for the buck products name products etc etc.

bccan

Just to add a little confusion - (Copper especially invited to opine) My vote for primer touch ups would be UV cure aerosol. We (Glasurit Shop) use R-M AM826 for primer touch up as it is essentially catalyzed primer. Sand 220, apply 2 medium coats, put out in sun (regardless of temp) for a few minutes & ready to sand. Expensive for an aerosol but it's good, stable stuff.

Rustbucket2

Thanks to everyone. Just didn't want to have paint lift , because I used a spray can primer, looks like I will be safe, as long as I don't use 1.00 can primer. I hope I will be ok using something like rust-oleum gray for automotive use. I will only be using it in a few spots were I sand through , I have two small spots on one fender , on top edge. so one can should do whole car ( I hope) if I don't sand through to many more spots.

coppercutlass

Be careful with that stuff. laying solvent based urethan paint will react with it even 2k sealers. When i bust through blocking i usually use a etch primer and sand with like 800 just to cover up the filler spots etc etc so they wont bleed through. The only rattle can primer i have literally painted over was oxide red but for some reason it seems to be super hard over he grays and other rustoleum primers.

just because it say's auto grade dont make it so. Be careful.

47 Convertible

I think of Rust Oleum as an OK hardware store quality paint. Not in the same league with the professional products recommended. Why not follow the advice of those who sound like they have professional experience?

I understand the issue may be cost but the difference between professional and hardware store product is likely less than 1% of the cost of a paint job. If RO turned out to be incompatiible and caused blemishes further along or when finished you'd likely be kicking yourself for saving that ten or twenty dollars.

coppercutlass

To be honest the price between rustoleum and a good generic auto body grade spray can is like 2 bucks on the low end.

chequenman

^^^^^^^
Oh!!! C'mon now, listen to Coppercutlass, I've been there.... Not a pretty ending!!!!

Brad J.

Why not do the best job you can do and spray more epoxy over the break throughs? I personally wouldn't do it any other way.

Rustbucket2

That is what I'm going to do, I going to fix the bad spots, then spray epoxy over where I went through. then go over it later this spring with a high build primer. Thanks everyone for your input.

11971four4two

YEARS AGO
LoL
I was taught that the prep before paint
wax grease remover after scuff with sand paper / scotch brite ... to help primer / paint adhere was a good start


I use way too much of the ceramic duplicolor spray can low gloss black
in rattler cans

11971four4two

NO PRIMER
only low gloss black LOL



1634 DE