Thor

Hey guys

Working on a customers 69 442 and he wants as much as possible brought back to original

So I've repainted the engine in Bronze but not sure about some of the accessories that are on it.

So I need colours for the following parts:

Accessory brackets
Pullies
Dipstick tube
Coil mount
Distributor housing
Air Cleaner housing

Transmission
Trans Pan
Trans Dipstick tube

Might have more questions later as I put this thing back together haha

Thanks!

Les

68Tom

Hey Les--

Some people who have this down cold, might be able to add more to this, but I've answered below with what I know.

Also, here are some pics. Not sure if what was done was 100% accurate, but others can comment if it's wrong.
161915_1320c0c6-ce25-49d0-a939-bb02.jpg

161915_d1b644ad-05ba-4d74-a1e6-f5ff.jpg

161915_18fdb442-163c-46aa-a3c1-b0ca.jpg

161915_3079e0ce-4b25-4647-8e6f-f771.jpg

And peace!
DrOlds.jpg

StickW31

contact me directly and i can send you pictures of a 1968 442 w-30 we are just finishing up.

Steve

allyolds68

The only thing I would add is that the pics you posted are for a 4 speed car, not an auto (positive battery cable over the inside of the valve cover)

70Post

Nice looking motor. I'm not one to criticize other's work but since Thor is asking and may refer to those pics....


Valve covers in the pic are reversed. The "notches" should be on the firewall end of motor (at least they are on 70-72 and I assume the earlier cars were the same when it came to valve cover placement).

rcorrigan5

Hi Les,
Thought I might offer my 2 cents worth since I have both a '68 4-4-2 (restored) and a '69 4-4-2 (unrestored). Here's what I see.

Accessory brackets - chassis black. There might be one exception and that is the lower bracket for the alternator on non-A/C cars, which is, or might be, painted the same color as the engine. I've seen it both ways for non-A/C cars. For A/C cars, all the brackets appear black (my '68 is non-A/C and I painted that lower alternator bracket black but I do believe it is supposed to be the color of the engine (the word I "heard" is that the lower alternator bracket was attached to the block before the engine was painted); my '69 is an A/C car and all the accessory brackets on it are chassis black).

Pullies - all chassis black.

Dipstick tube - It appears the '69 is bare metal. I painted the tube on my '68 a "stainless steel" color to protect the metal from rust.

Coil mount - It appears to be bare metal on my '69. I painted the one on my '68 the "stainless steel" color to protect the mount but yet give it a more original look.

Distributor housing - bare metal on the '69. I painted the '68 "stainless steel" to protect the metal.

Air cleaner housing - it's red, but the red is somewhat unique. I don't think you will find it on any auto parts store shelf. Fusick (www.fusick.com) makes it in a rattle can (part number AF150S) for about $17/can. My brother used it on his '68 and it looks like the real deal. Fusick also makes the bronze engine paint in a rattle can (part number EP90S) for about $16/can. I needed 2 full cans of engine paint to fully cover my '68. My brother needed only one can of the red to paint his air cleaner.

Transmission - bare metal on the '69; "stainless steel" paint on the '68.

Transmission pan - bare metal on the '69; "stainless steel" on the '68.

Transmission dip stick tube - I painted the one on my '68 chassis black because it looks like the one on my '69 is black.

I'm thinking the only way to know for sure is to get a hold of the judging sheets. I'm on that road right now as I want to take my '68 to the OCA Nationals in Reno next summer.

Hope this helps!

Randy C.

joe_padavano

Randy,

How does the "stainless steel" paint compare in color and finish to aluminum paint? I would have thought that aluminum paint should be used on the trans, distributor, alternator, etc.

rcorrigan5

For me, the aluminum paint comes out too shiny, whereas the stainless steel paint seems to have more of the original metal-type look. The stainless steel paint doesn't look like a nice piece of stainless steel - the paint is not nearly as clear and shiny. I would have liked to keep the bare metal items that way for originality but I also wanted to have something on them to protect the metal. Even clear coat didn't look right on the bare metal to me, especially after a piece had been bead-blasted. Stainless steel seemed to best fit the bill for looks and protection. Just my personal opinion, though - there's nothing magical about it at all!

BTW, I thought your comment about the color of 10-year old "oil" in a different thread was hilarious!

Randy C.

rcorrigan5

One other thing - I did clear-coat the alternator. Alternators clean up quite nicely and a flat clear-coat makes them look right.

Randy C.

BlackGold

I've never figured out why anyone paints aluminum parts (unless you drive your car on salty roads). Natural aluminum should look like -- natural aluminum -- as far as I'm concerned. Leave it alone and it's fine. Oh well, to each his own.