What are the correct bolts for 59 88 Steering Box?

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Old June 7th, 2014, 07:14 PM
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What are the correct bolts for 59 88 Steering Box?

Hi Everyone,

I was pulling my 59 Dynamic 88 Holiday Coupe out of the driveway and heard a dreadful "shink" and two large bolts had sheered off the Saginaw steering box, but both were different lengths. And the 3rd one still in the box is a different length as well, but none of them look original. I spent the better part of the morning looking for the answer online and did a quick search of the forums.

Question: What are the correct lengths and thread lengths for the 3 Hex bolts? I have a 3 1/4'', 3 1/2'', and 4 1/4'', all 7/16''. I wasn't able to see the part number of the box, but I have a 371 engine.

2nd Question: Should I be looking for original bolts? Are the older bolts stronger? Is there a type/brand of grade 8 steel that is the best? My mechanic pointed out an old bolt that he had and there is a little bit of a shoulder at the head where it becomes ever-so-slightly thicker right before the head. Does this make a difference? He said that extra thick washers should be used as well and one bolt didn't have this.

Thanks for your help

Mike
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Old August 17th, 2014, 11:43 AM
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Hi Mike, '59-'60's had frames issues at the steering box mounting. There is a factory filed fix for it, part 7.006 380125.

It looks like your car had problems in the past and someone put in whatever bolts they could find to fit. I once bought a '60 and drive it 70 miles home, but is was a little wishy-washy. When I got under it, the steering box was held in with threaded rod and nuts/washers to hold it to the frame!

Surprisingly, none of my parts books show the bolts that hold the box in, so you will have to improvise.

First, check your frame to be sure it actually still has threaded area that will hold the bolts.

Take your old bolts (to get the thread size) to Ace-Is-The-Place and get some grade 8 (the gold ones, usually not ChinaCrap) and by a bunch in various lengths. You can take back what you don't need. They also have matching thick washers to fit under the bolts.

Look at the inside of the frame under the box to see if is cracked. If it is, you will have to take it to a local frame/body shop to get it reinforced, otherwise it will happen again. The frame is weak there which allows the box to flex, thereby loosening the bolts and sometimes pulling them out of the holes.

If memory serve me right, the bolts can protrude to the outside of the frame. Find bolts that will stick out enough to let you get a locknut and lock-washer on the outside. Make sure the tire won't rub on them at full lock.

A little locktite on the threads will never hurt.

Good luck on your project!

Jim
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Old August 17th, 2014, 11:58 AM
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Follow-up.

Here is a factory bolt reinforcement kit I was not aware of.
http://www.oldsobsolete.com/products...ge-nos-409234/

Perhaps you can steal some ideas from it.

The kits that I used to have had these bolts, and also complete stamped metal frame section that fit under the box.
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Old August 17th, 2014, 07:45 PM
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Cheers Jim for the advice and well done on finding that link. I tried for two days looking, and did a fairly decent search of that website but must of missed it. Interesting that this was a known issue as well. I bet that old steel is still better than most of the new stuff.

My mechanic was able to find some old bolts he had collected over the years and I haven't had one break since, but there is a certain move I do if I reverse, while turning steering wheel to the right, while perpendicular to a slope, that I hear that dreaded noise of metal wanting to break.

Thanks again. I will now debate $95.00 for 3 bolts...
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