oddball

OK, I'm going fishing for help again.
What are y'all doing for black oxide fasteners? I used the Caswell cold stuff and their sealer, but almost all of the external fasteners have started rusting within a year. Store bought fasteners are rusting already, too.
Farming out the job to an actual plating company isn't very feasible because it's always onsey-twosey jobs. I am *not* fully disassembling this thing again. At least as long as I want to stay married!

joe_padavano

Black oxide does rust. It isn't waterproof.

Hairy Olds

Using a product such as Boeshield will hold the rust off for a couple of years as long as it''s not your daily driver.

66-3X2 442

Plating with black manganese is the proper way to plate bolts etc. It's not a hard process but does require some skill and equipment. You can buy and mix it with water. You heat it up to about 180-200*,put the clean and I mean clean bolts/nuts etc. in the solution and leave until the parts quit fizzing. You remove the parts,wash with water and quickly spray with WD-40 to displace the water. Dry the parts well with a towel and respray. Then you're done & if done properly,they will not ever rust again. I did some parts on a car I restored and sold. I saw the car 20 years later and the parts still looked great. You do have to use stainless/glass pots to do the plating because the manganese sticks to anything other than that. I have been doing this plating for 30 years with great results. Gray phosphate/parkerizing is another method to plate hood hinges/hood latches etc. If you want to try this,I can refer you to a supplier of the manganese or parkerizing. This is my car with the plating and you can see the hinges and even the master cylinder plated.

SWinner

66-3X2 442

Please let us know your supplier for the manganese plating kit.

I've tried every black oxide kit out there and non of them prevent rust.

66-3X2 442

Scott Owens 864-386-6331 Palmetto Enterprises He works a job,so if you don't reach him,leave a message. Tell him Mike Richards from Alabama referred you. It's not a kit,it's a solution that you will have to mix yourself. Like I said,read my post about what's needed.

Koda

Did you simply drop the entire master cylinder into the vat?

jensenracing77

I just started doing this myself also. There are some reasonably good videos on it on You Tube. Many bad ones also. It is easy to do but it will not prevent rust. You have to touch them with a little oil now and then to prevent the rust. If your bolts are not that bad then just clean them really good and toss them in a bottle of Ospho for a day or so. You can get Ospho at most any hardware store. It will kill the rust and blacken them back up. I would do a junk bolt first so you can see what they look like. Just don't forget to rinse and hit them with WD-40 after you are done.

Eddie Hansen

On the same subject I just pulled several boxes of bolts in preparation for another push in my restoration, as well as seeing several folks looking for original hardware. I bought the large vibratory tumbler from harbor freight used my 20% coupon, https://www.harborfreight.com/18-lb-...ose-96923.html I used the green pyramid ceramics ( 2 x 5 lbs jars) and simple green and water, I was a little skeptical but after a few hours I was absolutely amazed, I threw brake hardware in, crusty old bolts and washers etc etc they came out excellent. I will still need to wire wheel the threads some, or chase them with a thread chaser to clean all the way down, I feel it saved me a ton of time. The small tumbler is 50 bucks, should be good for smaller batches but I opted for the larger one and I was able to dump a ton of crap in there.

I did order the black oxide kit and sealer from caswell plating but now I think I might try this Parkerizing, and since we are on the subject I also did the electrolysis cleaning of parts using a sacrificial steel sheet and some washing soda in plain water, and a cheapo battery charger, that also worked amazingly well.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...4yqDzrsS77SbIo

https://www.acehardware.com/departme...iABEgIfrfD_BwE

OLDSter Ralph

Eddie, Thanks for sharing ! It was most helpful. I would use a clean (oil/grease free), finer wire wheel for the threads.
Did you get the car turned around, and how did you do it ?

66-3X2 442

If I tell you I did a car 35 years ago and the parts still haven't rusted,they haven't rusted. If done correctly,they will not rust-period.

66-3X2 442

The absolute best way to make sure rusty bolts etc. are clean is,dip them in muriatic acid. You have to be real careful because if left too long,it will etch the parts. You can't blast hood hinges well enough to clean the areas behind the overlapping parts will not get clean. The way to do them is,first degrease them,then spray wash vigorously,then dip them in muriatic acid to finish cleaning,then dip in the parkerizing and follow the procedure I described above. If using muriatic acid,you have to use plastic containers/pans for the same reason muriatic acid comes in plastic jugs. I suggest degreasing all parts to get any contaminates off of them. You use black manganese for bolts/nuts/washers etc. and the gray phosphate/parkerizing for hinges/hood latches etc. The manganese is actually dark gray,not black but is the best there is for bolts. Sometimes after the process is finished,there will be a light film of white residue. You can put PB Blaster on them and it will make them look great. Blasting parts leaves a cloudy look but the acid doers not. After a while when you get use to do it,you can set up a production type line of acid,cleaning the acid off quickly,dipping in the solution and the process of removing the water with WD40. After cleaning the parts and they are ready for plating,you must net get any oil/grease or even body oils on the parts or the plating will not stick. Wear gloves while doing the process. Another note,if you use muriatic acid-NEVER USE IT INDOORS. Outside use only and wear a mask.

Eddie Hansen

Not Yet Ralph, getting things lined up to do it shortly, need to clear out some things in the shop first, I decided to get a flatbed when I am ready. I started digging out all the tidbits needed to set the engine in, and figured while I am doing this should clean up hardware and such that I can do at night after work, and in the basement as opposed to the unheated garage. My buddy who is going to help has been super busy , so I decided to keep going doing things ( anything really) I have repaired the 4 speed console, getting ready to spray that. Polished the top plate and lid, etc will be posting pics. I also ordered an oldsmobile engine dolly so I can move the other olds motor out of the garage. I also am looking for a pair of gm 15 inch rims ( non olds that I could throw on the rear instead of my new hurst wheels lol... which I still have to order tires for. thanks for asking :-)