Money saving tip for 61-63 F85s.....
July 25th, 2015, 01:12 PM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 484
Money saving tip for 61-63 F85s.....
One thing that irritated me with my 63 Cutlass was the soft mushy suspension that these cars came with. With my newly installed T5, I drive a bit more spirited and I'm just not happy with the excessive body lean. Even some of the "road tests" in the day mentioned the soft boulevard ride.....
NOS coil springs, front or back are unobtainable and even if found would not help. So after some research in the 63 factory assembly manual for the front spring specifications, I discovered that Moog front coil springs from a 50 to 53 Chevy were almost identical to the 63 Cutlass springs with the exception of the spring rate which is substantially higher. That makes sense because the 53 Chev weighs about 3500 compared to the 2750 of the Cutlass. Even though the new Moog springs are a 1/2 inch shorter in overall length, the car does ride about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch higher in the front now, but that's a plus for me. Huge difference in the amount of body lean, I'm very satisfied with this low cost modification. The Moog part number is 639 and sells on Amazon for about $64 for the pair with free shipping. That's a bargain in my book.
Now for the rear end, just for curiosities sake I put the old front springs in the rear, since it's less then a half hour job to do both sides when using a car lift. They fit just fine and it rides nice and firm, but ride height went up 2 1/2 inches. I'm going to pull them back out and cut them down about 2 inches and see if that will get the ride height down to where I like it.
My next project will be to see if a 5 lug (GM A body bolt pattern) front wheel hub from the 61-63 Pontiac Tempest Y body will interchange, but it's just to hot here in Phoenix to get to the wrecking yard to see if will work or not.
Just got my new shop with AC finished, that's why I'm so enjoying doing these little projects now when it's 105 outside and only 80 in the shop....
NOS coil springs, front or back are unobtainable and even if found would not help. So after some research in the 63 factory assembly manual for the front spring specifications, I discovered that Moog front coil springs from a 50 to 53 Chevy were almost identical to the 63 Cutlass springs with the exception of the spring rate which is substantially higher. That makes sense because the 53 Chev weighs about 3500 compared to the 2750 of the Cutlass. Even though the new Moog springs are a 1/2 inch shorter in overall length, the car does ride about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch higher in the front now, but that's a plus for me. Huge difference in the amount of body lean, I'm very satisfied with this low cost modification. The Moog part number is 639 and sells on Amazon for about $64 for the pair with free shipping. That's a bargain in my book.
Now for the rear end, just for curiosities sake I put the old front springs in the rear, since it's less then a half hour job to do both sides when using a car lift. They fit just fine and it rides nice and firm, but ride height went up 2 1/2 inches. I'm going to pull them back out and cut them down about 2 inches and see if that will get the ride height down to where I like it.
My next project will be to see if a 5 lug (GM A body bolt pattern) front wheel hub from the 61-63 Pontiac Tempest Y body will interchange, but it's just to hot here in Phoenix to get to the wrecking yard to see if will work or not.
Just got my new shop with AC finished, that's why I'm so enjoying doing these little projects now when it's 105 outside and only 80 in the shop....
July 25th, 2015, 08:58 PM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 484
Yes, you are right, Tempest does use 5x4.5, I got the wrong info from the website classiccollecter.net, obviously their info is wrong.
Anyway I cut the replaced old front springs down an 1 1/2" and used them to replace the rear springs. Stance is just the way I want it now and ride/handling is vastly improved, body leaning problem is no longer an issue and the best part is the whole project only set me back about $65!!
Anyway I cut the replaced old front springs down an 1 1/2" and used them to replace the rear springs. Stance is just the way I want it now and ride/handling is vastly improved, body leaning problem is no longer an issue and the best part is the whole project only set me back about $65!!
Last edited by 1970-W30; July 25th, 2015 at 10:14 PM. Reason: none
July 26th, 2015, 06:13 AM
#4
'87 Delta 88 Royale
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Margate, England
Posts: 2,513
Don't we all love a budget fix that does a good job?. 
I had a G Body Cutlass Wagon a while ago with sagging rear springs. Getting the correct springs over here would have been expensive and I would have a long wait. Not good, I wanted to use it for towing a trailer home at short notice. So I got a pair of coils from a small European subcompact and fitted them inside the original springs. It sat level, loading it up with people and beer, and hitching up the trailer home barely upset it, and the ride quality both unleden and fully freighted was if anything, better. I was given the springs for free too!.
Roger.
I had a G Body Cutlass Wagon a while ago with sagging rear springs. Getting the correct springs over here would have been expensive and I would have a long wait. Not good, I wanted to use it for towing a trailer home at short notice. So I got a pair of coils from a small European subcompact and fitted them inside the original springs. It sat level, loading it up with people and beer, and hitching up the trailer home barely upset it, and the ride quality both unleden and fully freighted was if anything, better. I was given the springs for free too!.
Roger.
December 20th, 2015, 03:05 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 71
Thanks for the tips! I'm glad to hear of your progress.
I'm particularly interested in your T5 swap. Could you go into more details? Was your car originally an automatic? I have the auto in my 63 Cutlass and desperately want a manual.
I'm particularly interested in your T5 swap. Could you go into more details? Was your car originally an automatic? I have the auto in my 63 Cutlass and desperately want a manual.
December 30th, 2015, 05:18 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Chestertown, MD
Posts: 825
Very nice info. I did buy new custom springs but have not installed them. Lowered the car 1/2" and increased the spring rate. I also purchased a rear sway bar for the car. If you are interested in the information email me. Just got my 1963 4 speed jetfire running. Now need to finish assembly.
Ken
Kid442w30@yahoo.com
Ken
Kid442w30@yahoo.com
January 8th, 2016, 11:51 AM
#9
Registered car nut
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Speaking of spindles/brakes and such. I spoke with Mark @ Scarebird Classic Brakes re: adding disc to the 63 Cutlass front end I still have (till the next scrap run) anyway........ the Scarebird kit uses 4 lug Mitsubishi rotors but I wanted 5 lug as I was thinking (was!) about using the front end on a classic truck. He said it would then use " 83-90 4WD S10 rotors and 65-69 Corvair hubs"
May 3rd, 2016, 04:53 PM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 47
Mike, check out D&D they are in Michigan and they would be able to answer all your questions. I've done business with the guy and he's always taken the time to help me out.
http://aluminumv8.com/Home/Contact
http://aluminumv8.com/Home/Contact
May 4th, 2016, 06:45 AM
#13
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,298
May 4th, 2016, 06:49 AM
#14
344879M363895
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,234
You must have missed this post.
June 14th, 2018, 12:34 AM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 88
One thing that irritated me with my 63 Cutlass was the soft mushy suspension that these cars came with. With my newly installed T5, I drive a bit more spirited and I'm just not happy with the excessive body lean. Even some of the "road tests" in the day mentioned the soft boulevard ride.....
NOS coil springs, front or back are unobtainable and even if found would not help. So after some research in the 63 factory assembly manual for the front spring specifications, I discovered that Moog front coil springs from a 50 to 53 Chevy were almost identical to the 63 Cutlass springs with the exception of the spring rate which is substantially higher. That makes sense because the 53 Chev weighs about 3500 compared to the 2750 of the Cutlass. Even though the new Moog springs are a 1/2 inch shorter in overall length, the car does ride about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch higher in the front now, but that's a plus for me. Huge difference in the amount of body lean, I'm very satisfied with this low cost modification. The Moog part number is 639 and sells on Amazon for about $64 for the pair with free shipping. That's a bargain in my book.
Now for the rear end, just for curiosities sake I put the old front springs in the rear, since it's less then a half hour job to do both sides when using a car lift. They fit just fine and it rides nice and firm, but ride height went up 2 1/2 inches. I'm going to pull them back out and cut them down about 2 inches and see if that will get the ride height down to where I like it.
My next project will be to see if a 5 lug (GM A body bolt pattern) front wheel hub from the 61-63 Pontiac Tempest Y body will interchange, but it's just to hot here in Phoenix to get to the wrecking yard to see if will work or not.
Just got my new shop with AC finished, that's why I'm so enjoying doing these little projects now when it's 105 outside and only 80 in the shop....
NOS coil springs, front or back are unobtainable and even if found would not help. So after some research in the 63 factory assembly manual for the front spring specifications, I discovered that Moog front coil springs from a 50 to 53 Chevy were almost identical to the 63 Cutlass springs with the exception of the spring rate which is substantially higher. That makes sense because the 53 Chev weighs about 3500 compared to the 2750 of the Cutlass. Even though the new Moog springs are a 1/2 inch shorter in overall length, the car does ride about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch higher in the front now, but that's a plus for me. Huge difference in the amount of body lean, I'm very satisfied with this low cost modification. The Moog part number is 639 and sells on Amazon for about $64 for the pair with free shipping. That's a bargain in my book.
Now for the rear end, just for curiosities sake I put the old front springs in the rear, since it's less then a half hour job to do both sides when using a car lift. They fit just fine and it rides nice and firm, but ride height went up 2 1/2 inches. I'm going to pull them back out and cut them down about 2 inches and see if that will get the ride height down to where I like it.
My next project will be to see if a 5 lug (GM A body bolt pattern) front wheel hub from the 61-63 Pontiac Tempest Y body will interchange, but it's just to hot here in Phoenix to get to the wrecking yard to see if will work or not.
Just got my new shop with AC finished, that's why I'm so enjoying doing these little projects now when it's 105 outside and only 80 in the shop....
June 16th, 2018, 06:24 AM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Chestertown, MD
Posts: 825
uAiTtLN.jpg
Updated to 14" tires and white wall. Bought custom springs higher spring rate and 1" drop for under $200. Next I have a rear sway bar to install. Take a look and let me know what you think?
Ken
Updated to 14" tires and white wall. Bought custom springs higher spring rate and 1" drop for under $200. Next I have a rear sway bar to install. Take a look and let me know what you think?
Ken
June 16th, 2018, 06:02 PM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 88
Very nice Ken I love your car, did you get new front and rear springs? I really like that look, where did you find the springs? I'd also like to improve the handling on mine, did you find anyone who makes better swaybars that we can use on these cars?
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