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Guys: What carburetor would originally have come with the 1962 Starfire (6.5L, 394 cubic inch, 4 bbl)? [manufacturer name and model #?] I bought my Starfire about 1 year ago (the fellow had the car the previous 25 years). Carburetor troubles have started, car stalling out, my mechanic told me the float/needle are bad. I am almost 100% certain the carb currently in the car is NOT the factory original. (it says Autoline, C928, Rochester 4 Jet). But I am almost 100% certain that is NOT the original carb that would have come from the factory. Problem is this - I thought it would be easier to buy a remanufactured carb and just swap it out with the poorly functioning carb (I bought one from rock auto, which they said would fit my car). Well, the fittings did not match. Drove me crazy. I finally threw in the towel and returned the carb to rock auto for a refund. Now I am stuck with the carb that is in the car and for the life of me I can't pry open the airhorn area. Do I take a sledgehammer to it and bust it open? Or, instead, I am now thinking if I find the exact carb manufacturer, type, and model number that would have originally come with my starfire. That way, I can order another remanufactured carb that I know will match up EXACTLY. I am talking with Mike's Carb, and they really want to get the exact model # for my carb, to do it right. http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Olds...65_c_1222.html Can any olds starfire carb gurus please help? Thx!
First , you haven't found the " secret screw " . The "secret screw " is hidden in a well on one side of the airhorn . Right where the screwdriver is in this pic ;
Rochester 4GC carbs did not have numbers stamped on them . Instead they had a metal tag attached to one of the airhorn screws . With the number stamped on it .
The word "Autoline " tells me that this carb is a re-build . And it could be a mish-mash of parts that the re-builder thought would work on the application .
My 1963 Olds parts book lists carb #7016217 as fitting all 62 Oldsmobiles with 4 barrel except F-85
What Charlie said, It's a 4GC and should come apart very easily. I had issues with the new accelerator pump cups going bad at a alarming rate (like two weeks) but others have had good luck with the kit offered by Fusick.
That carburetor was used successfully for years on many different models of cars, Don't give up to soon the alternative is a carburetor that will need a lot of tuning for the transmission linkage something that makes my head hurt just thinking about it..... Tedd
Thank you so much for showing me where that "secret" screw is! (especially by including a picture) For the life of me, I have been staring at that thing for hours over the course of several day and NEVER saw that. Ok, let me get on it now. However, I have totally jacked up my carb now, I cracked it manhandling it trying to open it. So, I am left with having to order a remanufactured carb again. Why would an identical, remanufactured carb (autoline C928 have different thread pitch for the fuel inlet and the throttle body?! Boggles the mind.). Thx again to both of you guys.
Thank you so much for showing me where that "secret" screw is! (especially by including a picture) For the life of me, I have been staring at that thing for hours over the course of several day and NEVER saw that. Ok, let me get on it now. However, I have totally jacked up my carb now, I cracked it manhandling it trying to open it. So, I am left with having to order a remanufactured carb again. Why would an identical, remanufactured carb (autoline C928 have different thread pitch for the fuel inlet and the throttle body?! Boggles the mind.). Thx again to both of you guys.
I have an airhorn. It came off a 62-64 Olds 4GC. It has its own issue of imperfect threads for fuel inlet. Holds fitting ok but should be cleaned or even helicoiled since we are talking fuel over hot engines. I'd be willing to sell it cheap or even free but would like to wait for my Olds to sell before giving up spare parts.
Why would an identical, remanufactured carb (autoline C928 have different thread pitch for the fuel inlet and the throttle body?! Boggles the mind.).
As I explained before . Large "factory" rebuilders sometimes mixed parts to build a carb .
Also the carb you got from Rock Auto may not have been the right one .
They have a less than stellar record on this forum for people getting the right parts . Mostly due to incorrect listings .
The Hollander says that 58 thru 64 Olds 4 barrel carbs are all the same , except F-85 . I would imagine that the different part numbers for those years had to do with jet sizes and tuning .
If you haven't damaged the bowl , I would think with another air horn you could successfully re-build your carb . Just take your time and follow the instructions carefully . If you don't have one , a 1961 Olds factory shop manual (with a 62 supplement) is a big time and headache saver . You can find them on E-Bay ; https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...al+62&_sacat=0
Guys -- thx so much all for your help and insight. I have certain gifts. Being mechanically inclined, however, is NOT one of them! At this point, since I damaged the airhorn, I am back, ironically, to ordering a rebuilt carb. The whole ordeal started because my mechanic told me the float/needle/seat was bad! I won't go back to rock auto. Any recommendations please on where I can buy my rebuilt carb for a 1962 olds starfire (394, 4BBL, with A/C). [I have been speaking with Mikes Carb.] Thx all - you guys are great. Any Texas-based olds guys I can hook up with, around the Austin area?
When I rebuilt the 4GC on my 63 I found a duplicate parts carb on this forum for $50.00, they should not be that hard to find. Have it rebuilt by a specialist if you don't have the skills, even then it should not be as much as $500!
Guys: Update on my carb issue. I managed to re-align my floats and replaced the needles (which my mechanic said was the root cause). Re-assembled the carb, put her back on, replaced the spark plugs -- AND -- she fired up! So far, so good, only kept her idling in the driveway. Haven't ventured out yet. Maybe tomorrow! Thx again for all your help and suggestions.
There are great bunch of guys here at your disposal. Its wonderful you did it yourself. Now, you have a better understanding of the carb. Good luck with your "road test".
hi all - well, OLDSter Ralph - i took out the olds out in the neighborhood. she is stalling out while i am driving, didn't go two blocks past the house. and, when i turn off the car, gas is spewing up the top of the carb (i can tell cuz i took off the air cleaner and can see with the hood open). i am stuck. i called another mechanic today, he works on classic cars. he can get me in next month. carbs and air/fuel mixture are so complicated on these rochesters. we'll have to wait and see. thx again all.
Just a guess from afar but it sounds like the float level is wrong/ stuck. Have you given it a smack with a rubber hammer? It may not be as bad as you think.... Tedd
hi all - well, OLDSter Ralph - i took out the olds out in the neighborhood. she is stalling out while i am driving, didn't go two blocks past the house. and, when i turn off the car, gas is spewing up the top of the carb (i can tell cuz i took off the air cleaner and can see with the hood open). i am stuck. i called another mechanic today, he works on classic cars. he can get me in next month. carbs and air/fuel mixture are so complicated on these rochesters. we'll have to wait and see. thx again all.
I am curious what you did, to "re-align the floats" ? If you adjusted them too high, fuel could overflow. I would "back track" and recheck your float height setting. Look at the carb rebuild instructions to set the float height.
You may not be far off, but enough to cause problems. Give it another shot.
There are two different float settings, height and drop and they are adjusted in different ways. Follow the adjustment procedures in the FSM in order. I had problems the opposite of yours, too lean in corners and it was the float adjustments. Other possibilities are a leaking float and a sticking needle / seat assembly. Good luck.
Thx so much guys for your thoughts and suggestions. Since my mechanic can't get me in for a month anyway, i will take off the airhorn and check the float settings again, needle seat, using the carb kit instructions I got from Mike Carburetors. I also may bang on it with rubber hammer! more to come ...
Hi all. Just closing the loop on this. I ended up buying a new, re-built Rochester carb, and took it to a professional classic car restorer in town. I paid a pretty penny, but it was done right. Hence, worth it to me. Car running like a top now. Moral of the story, at least for me -- I'm not mechanical, and with something as complex as a carb, just get it done by a professional. My mechanic also found that the harmonic balancer was off, causing timing problems. The harmonic balancer was fully refurbished. Like butter now.
Hi all. Just closing the loop on this. I ended up buying a new, re-built Rochester carb, and took it to a professional classic car restorer in town. I paid a pretty penny, but it was done right. Hence, worth it to me. Car running like a top now. Moral of the story, at least for me -- I'm not mechanical, and with something as complex as a carb, just get it done by a professional. My mechanic also found that the harmonic balancer was off, causing timing problems. The harmonic balancer was fully refurbished. Like butter now.
Hi all. Just closing the loop on this. I ended up buying a new, re-built Rochester carb, and took it to a professional classic car restorer in town. I paid a pretty penny, but it was done right. Hence, worth it to me. Car running like a top now. Moral of the story, at least for me -- I'm not mechanical, and with something as complex as a carb, just get it done by a professional. My mechanic also found that the harmonic balancer was off, causing timing problems. The harmonic balancer was fully refurbished. Like butter now.
Where did you get your carburetor that solved your problem? I have a similar problem with my 62 olds 98 convertible
Thanks for the update! So often we don't know if we helped or not. Your success helps others who are trying the same as you but often are afraid to ask a question...... Thanks Tedd
June 18th, 2018, 05:30 PM
At this point, since I damaged the airhorn, I am back, ironically, to ordering a rebuilt carb. The whole ordeal started because my mechanic told me the float/needle/seat was bad! I won't go back to rock auto. Any recommendations please on where I can buy my rebuilt carb for a 1962 olds starfire (394, 4BBL, with A/C). [I have been speaking with Mikes Carb.] Thx all - you guys are great. Any Texas-based olds guys I can hook up with, around the Austin area?
