STRETCH1

I have a 1972 Cutlass convertable with factory Air Conditioning. The car sat for quite a while now I am in the middle of restoring it to it's former glory. One question I have is about the factory air, I remember way back when I could recharge it with F12 refrigerant, that is now obsolete. What do I have to do to get the AC working again? Is there an aftermarket ac system?

joe_padavano

Installing an aftermarket A/C system is a LOT of work. Vintage Air makes a system for A-bodies that makes for a clean firewall, but it's not cheap. Alternately (and since the car has been sitting for a while) replace the compressor, evaporator, drier, and O-rings and charge with R-134. You'll be good to go.

STRETCH1

I think I am going to go with the second route. Where is a good place to find those part mentioned?

Lady72nRob71

Welcome, stretch!

Keep the original system - much less work.
You might consider having your original components restored.
http://www.classicautoair.com/ can do this for you.
The cost will be the same as buying new, but they will not be the chinesium cheapies. Look at their price sheet for all the different services.
I am going to call them to see if they offer a "complete system" resto discount...

Evap and condensor will be pressure tested and flushed.
Compressor flushed, cleaned and rebuilt, repainted and new label.

You MUST have the hoses and POA valve rebuilt for R134, prolly expansion valve also. They will also calibrate your POA during rebuild for R134. If that is not done, cooling will be poor.
Dryer needs to be replaced or rebuilt.
POA valves are not reproed and i would not trust a NOS one - the rubber pieces deteriorate. Rebuild is best option.
I like the idea of them having my hoses rebuilt - I know the metal fitting will fit.

It will be expensive for a complete resto though - I figured 1200 for everything. However, in TX, that is cheap comfort!

If the evap is pulled, might as well replace the blower motor also - it is a bear to get to when all assembled.

sworthy555

R-12 refrigerant is still available at O'Reily's auto parts for around $35 and you can buy it on line though you'll need to provide them with your EPA #. I still have R-12 in both of my Cutlass's.

Lady72nRob71

Anyone have a working EPA number we can use??

If a system that uses R12 is still working okay, I would encourage to keep using it as long as you can get R12. I have about 5 cans of R12 in the freezer for my 86 Cutlass. I have to recharge it every 5 years or so.
It is best bought from individuals who have had it at home after getting rid of a vehicle that uses it. That is how I got mine.
Shops will charge up to $64 a pound for it so I will no longer go that route.

Now if you are restoring a car's A/C system, it is best to go ahead and change to R134. It will not cost more to do so and if the conversion is done right, the performance should be almost as good as with R12. Many people have converted these cars with great success. The nice thing is that if it leaks out later because you did not tighten everything down well, you will not be out a lot of $$ in R12.

I prefer R12 myself, but might as well make things cheaper and easier int he long run and use R134, before that is phased out!

joe_padavano

I've converted several cars to R134, and I've not bothered to change the hoses (the cars are all drivers anyway). I have a vacuum pump and gauge set, so I do the loading myself. Here in humid Virginia, the cars cool just fine.

Lady72nRob71

How old are the hoses? Mine are hard and cracked.

joe_padavano

They were original hoses in 1984-1990 model year cars. If the hoses are cracked, then replacement is necessary.

tomsw31

I have had good results by charging a low system with a product called dura cool. It can be added to either R12 or 134a without evacuating the system. They sell a kit for about $90 that has all you need to do it at home. I have used it on three different vehicles and they all blow cold now.

oldsonharmont

Here's a thread where the advice from the guys in the southern states matters most. (sorry northerners and cannucks) Years ago I began running an R-12 substitute called Freeze 12 in an 82 El Camino with so-so results. (and that's only a small area to cool) When you compare the cost of a couple cans of R-12 to a full conversion, it just makes sense to hold out as long as you can. Come spend a summer in Arizona and tell me otherwise.
(p.s. don't forget your oven mitts to open the car door!)

jeffreyalman

hi from sunny hot south Florida, I have done the following on all 3 of mine:

VIR eliminator (now clutch cycles compressor)
134A conversion
wired recirc door closed
bypass heater core

I get 38 deg at the vents in all 3, and the wagon is a big gal to cool especially with all that glass.

sworthy555

You can aquire your refrigerant EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) certification through Esco Insitute at www.escoint.com. It's the EPA Section 609 for Motor Vehichle AC and you can get your test results immediately. I took the EPA 608 Certification through a one day class that was held by Maintenance Warehouse and then took the 609 exam on line. I reviewed all the study materials which made it fairly easy. Once you get your certificate you'll be able to purchase R-12 for your vehicle. You'll need to buy guages & do a little research if you haven't ever charged a AC system. Hope this helps.

Shawn

Lady72nRob71

Wow - sounds easy! Very good advice - thanks!
On a working system, I agree - stay with R12 as long as possible.

If you have a leaky, broke, or excessively old (like my 72) broke system, conversion may be best, along with a full resto.. R12 can get very expensive and hard to find to have to keep putting in.

This might be my project in about 2 years...

stcsawdust

I am currently working on getting my factory 1972 AC working again. I need to know what the system capacity is for my ac system. My car is missing the stickers and I have no clue what it needs to be charged to. I dont know if it matters or not but I am converting it to 134a.