cutlassclay

Right now i have a 350 in my 72 cutlass s..i want to slowly build and engine and eventually put it in, but i don't know what block to start with. i want my car to have around 600-700hp, most likely supercharged. someone told me that a 427 would be best for this, is that true? let me hear what ya guys think

stan 65 cutlass

maybe a 425, cuzz itl bolt right in, any 427 is gonna be a huge job to swap in

firefrost gold

I think he is looking to poke and stroke said 350. NO?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/442-OLDS-SMA...568c4a&vxp=mtr

I love looking at this little gem. Never heard of Hood performance but I think if you are in That hp level a DX block is a must.

stan 65 cutlass

maybe,

700 hp 350 sbo,

giddy up

yankees

It's not a huge swap as it's the same GM A-Body frame as a Chevelle.

I'm in the starting process of going SBO to SBC in my 72 Cutlass. It shouldn't be that much of a process. 1972 SBC 350 complete for $250, Vortec heads 906 complete for $150. Rebuild kit for under $275, cam lifters and timing chain for another $100. Just need a Vortec intake and I'm done.


Below prices are for everything bought new and can be done a lot cheaper. Swap is completed.

Now you can get a dime a dozen junkyard SBC 350 putting out good power or an Olds motor that can't keep up without breaking the bank.


Things to correct.

1. Starter wiring. Any good marine location can provide the correct gauge wiring, couplers or connectors to solder wiring extensions. This is my plan. $25

2. Buy the frame mounts and engine mounts for a 68-72 chevelle. Holes are already in the frame. $100

3. Radiator inlet and outlet should be the same as Chevy, so rad hoses should be easy to come by. Buy a CSR swivel intake water neck and you can get radiator hose adapters anywhere. $115

4. Trans crossmember shouldn't be an issue. PG is going into mine and is the same X-member for the Turbo 350 (Chevy). I've done the T-400 to T/350 & PG swaps plenty enough to know it's a simple trans x-member swap. Any place like NPD or YearOne carries the mounts. 4 bolts and you're done. $140 NEW or go to any pick-a-part for the crossmember for $12 plus your own labor.

5. Driveshaft. $$$ depending on who's making it or who you're buying it from.

Napoleon Solo

Please don't say ' cutty ' - it makes my brain sad.

Bunser

X2...and that goes for "vert" also.

oldcutlass

I've got a BBC 468/T400 in my funny looking Chevelle. It was a very simple swap, I ran a Ford starter solenoid for my ministarter. Attatched it on the passenger side firewall and used the stock wiring from there. You may have to switch your alternator wiring to the other side of the block. Use the frame brkts and motor mounts for what ever engine your using. Use all the accessories and brackets for what ever engine your using.

If you change to a T400 trans the xmember will need to go back and some minor e-brake cable mods will be required and a new driveshaft or one for a T400 will be needed.

Now, if your going to build an engine for your car, why not a 455?

stan 65 cutlass

cant wait to see what "cutlassclay" has to say. we cant keep speculating can we?

oldcutlass

No we can't, just curious ya know.

Stevec

A 455 with 600-700 hp will cost $12000 to $15000 possibly more if it's done correctly. Going fast ain't cheap! Going fast in an Olds REALLY isnt cheap!

I'm in the process of a 450-475 hp 455 build and it will cost about $10000 when it's all said and done.

stan 65 cutlass

true,you could build/buy a big block chevy and install it cheaper than a comparable hp olds. by the way hes got a 72 cutlass with a sbo350. id still go olds. thats just me

66luvr

x3

MDchanic

x4.

Yellowstatue

X5

panos

The swap is much easier than most people think.You need:
Frame mounts from same year chevelle
Headers (same there)
Chevy/olds adapter plate for the trans
Longer cables for the starter

It took me less than a day for the swap all alone with the old motor still in the car!
People that don't like to have a chebby in their olds ,going to say that is really hard/ expensive to do the swap ,it isn't! It cost me about 180$ for all the extra parts (depends on the headers you want). I'm not a die hard olds fan but I'm a die hard American muscle V8 fan who like to drive and enjoy my car without robbing a bank!

oldcutlass

I agree, the swap itself does not add much to the cost of the install. I remember all the trouble and expense you had with your Olds engine. I'm assuming your current one is performing fine.

ah64pilot

Any engine making 600-700 horsepower is going to cost you over $10K to build...doesn't matter what the make. And why do you want so much power...are you going to race it? 500 HP on the street is ridonkulous anyway, there's not a set of tires on earth that'll tame it save a set of slicks that'll last you 5,000 miles.

Cutty

yankees

650 HP BBC well well under 10k nowadays with old 990 heads or used brodix heads.

VinMichael

'cutlassclay' lol.

seemingly good info in this thread for chevy swaps.

Aceshigh

This is absolutely true starting from scratch.

However, you can easily make well over 600-700hp "Gross" for UNDER $10,000 from modern LS salvage yard pulls. It's going to cost far more to build a classic up to that because they're far less efficient, so you're fighting the design inefficiencies with dollars.

False.

Any 500hp build motor will be GROSS hp. Meaning that engine on a dyno stand.
500hp "GROSS" rated motors are a dime a dozen in modern muscle cars starting at $30,000:
......and their tires hold up quite fine.

1992+ Dodge Vipers = V10 8.0L (440hp SAE net = ~500hp Gross)
2010+ Camaro SS = LS3 6.2L (426hp SAE net = ~500hp gross)
2011+ Mustang GT = Coyote 5.0L
2005+ Shelby Mustangs .....I think the newest one is over 750hp "Gross" coming to about 660hp SAE net.
2008+ Corvette's, Z06's, ZR1's, etc ZR1's are 638hp SAE net = ~750hp Gross
2009+ Dodge Challenger SRT8's, Jeep SRT8's, etc.

What people tend to forget is when you build an engine to certain spec's that's "Gross" hp rated.
That's basically going back to pre-1972 ratings of engines power. So whenever you hear about a guy who built a motor 99.9% of the time you can deduct a sizeable chunk of hp due to accessories loss in the engine bay because it's not SAE net hp.

You see that lovely masterpiece as my Avatar ?? That's a 505hp SAE net LS7 found in every Z06 C6 Corvette. That engine is a beast and well over 600hp GROSS rated.......so is that new INSANE Shelby.

oldcutlass

We never did hear back from the OP on what his intensions or end result was?

Aceshigh

2 answers

1. I don't have the LS7.......I wish I did. What does it run ?? It does 10.99 in a Z06 with Drag Radials.
So add in a ~400lbs for an A-body and you're in the 11's somewhere still I'd bet money on.
Several 2nd gen Camaro owners have them in their cars on my other forum (Nastyz28)
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post319155

2. Traction control is disabled with a button in most new vehicles for full track testing figures and giggle factor.
Tires are only going to get eaten by people romping and stomping the throttle ALL the time.
I have a Hayabusa with 1 hp per 2.8lbs which can destroy tires too, but as long as I'm not aggressively driving it 24/7 my tires last.