69 Cutlass Resto-Mod Build
#1
69 Cutlass Resto-Mod Build
Here is the car the day I bought it 2 years ago.
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She went to the body shop 4 months ago to get media blasted and painted and currently looks like this.
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The body is actually in really nice shape and wont require much! All of the side trim and emblem holes have been welded close and smoothed. There is just a little hole in the driver side floor pan. No rust through in the windshield or rear window area. Paint should be on it in 2-3 weeks (depending on his work schedule).
Thinking about this blue color for the car with white stripes on the hood. The car was just finished before he brought mine into the shop to work on. Its a cobalt blue metallic.
cutlass040.jpg
cutlass038.jpg
cutlass043.jpg
cutlass042.jpg
She went to the body shop 4 months ago to get media blasted and painted and currently looks like this.
IMG_1456.jpg
IMG_1453.jpg
IMG_1452.jpg
IMG_1451.jpg
The body is actually in really nice shape and wont require much! All of the side trim and emblem holes have been welded close and smoothed. There is just a little hole in the driver side floor pan. No rust through in the windshield or rear window area. Paint should be on it in 2-3 weeks (depending on his work schedule).
Thinking about this blue color for the car with white stripes on the hood. The car was just finished before he brought mine into the shop to work on. Its a cobalt blue metallic.
Last edited by firefighter5174; October 20th, 2011 at 06:46 AM.
#2
IS this going to have a Non-Oldsmobile powertrain in it ??
If not I was going to say it's probably better off in the Major Projects section.
Looks like you have a WHOLE LOT of work and wallet bleeding ahead of you.
If not I was going to say it's probably better off in the Major Projects section.
Looks like you have a WHOLE LOT of work and wallet bleeding ahead of you.
#3
Here are pics of the 5.3 from an 03 Suburban that had 18k miles on it. The trans is going to be a 4L60e. I purchased 2 engines (one was a parts motor in pieces) at the same time and was able to sell the extra parts so I have a total of $300 in the engine, harnass, accessories, and trans.
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The frame is completely redone and has a Global West Suspension front suspension, HPM control arms, hellwig rear sway bar, front disc brakes, 8.5" 3.23 Posi and Jeep Grand Cherokee Steering box.
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The frame is completely redone and has a Global West Suspension front suspension, HPM control arms, hellwig rear sway bar, front disc brakes, 8.5" 3.23 Posi and Jeep Grand Cherokee Steering box.
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Last edited by firefighter5174; October 20th, 2011 at 06:48 AM.
#4
Actually I am setting very nicely in the complete project as it sits. Ive been reading and watching the LS1 swaps since I bought the car.
I also just acquired my buddys corvette motor that threw a rod through the block and the insurance company bought him a new crate motor. So I have his complete 5.7 with the 243 heads and intake/injectors etc (for free)!!
Last edited by firefighter5174; August 19th, 2011 at 07:54 AM.
#7
A cutlass with a 5.3 LM7, LS1 intake, cherokee steering box, in Missouri?.......cant be done.....
In case you missed it.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-iii-swap.html
Btw, where in MO are you?
In case you missed it.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-iii-swap.html
Btw, where in MO are you?
#8
Thanks! Does anyone know of a good motor mount for this swap now that edelbrock has discontinued theirs? Ive been looking at the dirty dingo sliders, but dont really like the price.
#9
A cutlass with a 5.3 LM7, LS1 intake, cherokee steering box, in Missouri?.......cant be done.....
In case you missed it.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-iii-swap.html
Btw, where in MO are you?
In case you missed it.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-iii-swap.html
Btw, where in MO are you?
#10
Summit carries Hooker LS1 swap mounts. There are 4 versions from original trans location to about 2 1/2" forward.
You'll still need the chevelle frame mounts. Found mine on ebay for $20.
You'll still need the chevelle frame mounts. Found mine on ebay for $20.
#11
Engine Adaptor plates
Gary showed me this set on Ebay that were only $30. So i bought em.
Frame Mounts
For mounting the engine the Chevelle 68-72 frame mounts for 350's.
Engine Mounts
Energy Suspension 3.1117R mounts
$39 each from Advanced Auto and got the $20 off and free shipping.
Truck Idler relocation bracket
Dirty Dingo $39 , use to be $29 just a few months ago. Speartech was charging $90
Then you'll also need a spacer of about 1/4" + thick to clear the steering rod.
You lucky bastid. I bought mine new for $55 locally from Tamraz.
I'm fighting with my fuel tank at the moment trying to get the big pig in the car.
Not sure if this Impala fuel tube is going to work........might have to saw off the A-body one and reuse it.
Gary showed me this set on Ebay that were only $30. So i bought em.
Frame Mounts
For mounting the engine the Chevelle 68-72 frame mounts for 350's.
Engine Mounts
Energy Suspension 3.1117R mounts
$39 each from Advanced Auto and got the $20 off and free shipping.
Truck Idler relocation bracket
Dirty Dingo $39 , use to be $29 just a few months ago. Speartech was charging $90
Then you'll also need a spacer of about 1/4" + thick to clear the steering rod.
I'm fighting with my fuel tank at the moment trying to get the big pig in the car.
Not sure if this Impala fuel tube is going to work........might have to saw off the A-body one and reuse it.
Last edited by Aceshigh; August 19th, 2011 at 02:29 PM.
#12
I have a couple sets of Chevelle motor mounts already.
I have the corvette accessory drive on the engine. Im tempted to use the water pump with the spacers dirty dingo sells and sell off the other pulleys to help finance the project. The only pulley that was missing is the power steering pump and pulley.
Did you like those adapter plates for $30? Im gonna be on a tight budget coming up. My son is due in November!
I have the corvette accessory drive on the engine. Im tempted to use the water pump with the spacers dirty dingo sells and sell off the other pulleys to help finance the project. The only pulley that was missing is the power steering pump and pulley.
Did you like those adapter plates for $30? Im gonna be on a tight budget coming up. My son is due in November!
#13
Worth every penny. Everyone else is excessively overcharging.
They're precision cut and powdercoated. No issues installing them at all.
Very well made, and hardware included.
I didn't get the 1" setback plates because I'm using the F-body pan.
Gary's been a saint and reminded me of that as well.
I advise the CTS-V pan instead for more play.
They're precision cut and powdercoated. No issues installing them at all.
Very well made, and hardware included.
I didn't get the 1" setback plates because I'm using the F-body pan.
Gary's been a saint and reminded me of that as well.
I advise the CTS-V pan instead for more play.
#15
Keep in mind those plates will move the trans mating surface about 1 1/4" forward if you use the chevelle frame mounts in their intended position. On Aces setup with a T56, it puts the shifter close to the original position.
With your auto that may or may not work. Good news is that the SBC frame mounts hang over the front of the crossmember, so you have a lot of room to move the mounts and redrill the crossmember. I recall seeing someone over at LS1tech that even flipped them over.
With your auto that may or may not work. Good news is that the SBC frame mounts hang over the front of the crossmember, so you have a lot of room to move the mounts and redrill the crossmember. I recall seeing someone over at LS1tech that even flipped them over.
#16
OK. It will prolly be a couple months before I can start playing around with it. Just wanted to buy the mounts before they raised their price or discontinued them again. Which power steering pulley did you end up going with? The Ford one? Ive read about several people buying the dorman pulley and it breaking.
#17
I used the Dorman 300-201. It's the only one I could find new. One issue with it though on the truck setup is that it has to be pushed way down on the pump shaft. It's even too far for my remover to get it off. I used 3 0.2" spacers between the pump and mount. Mine's working great.
Are you keeping the truck accessories?
Are you keeping the truck accessories?
#19
#20
I would. Save the $$$ the Vette accessory setup is ~$800 iirc
The Dirty Dingo bracket is $30 to keep the Vortec accessories.
The Ford pulley is available at Boneyards for $20-$30 or less.
Kinda a no brainer IMO.
I ended up with the Ford one because the Dorman IMO had issues for me. Gary got his to work.
I busted my Dorman one trying to get it back off since it went on too far and bottomed out before lining up.
I updated the LS1tech thread with what my findings were. Post #59 shows the comparisons.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...swap-pics.html
This is what you have to do with the F-body pan Gary.
I can't put them like you did. I have to flip them like this.
The Dirty Dingo bracket is $30 to keep the Vortec accessories.
The Ford pulley is available at Boneyards for $20-$30 or less.
Kinda a no brainer IMO.
I busted my Dorman one trying to get it back off since it went on too far and bottomed out before lining up.
I updated the LS1tech thread with what my findings were. Post #59 shows the comparisons.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...swap-pics.html
I can't put them like you did. I have to flip them like this.
Last edited by Aceshigh; August 23rd, 2011 at 03:40 PM.
#21
The only thing Im missing from the Vette motor is the power steering pump and pulley. So I think Im going to sell those pulleys and come out ahead. But I may change my mind between now and then too. I got quite aways before Ill be ready for that though.
#22
I forgot you had the spare vette motor.
Hell if you already have it, use that stuff. PS Pumps are cheap through Parts Giant.
Or like ya said, sell all the Vette stuff since it's worth more and that could pay for
your new Aluminum radiator and electric fans or whatever else.
Hell if you already have it, use that stuff. PS Pumps are cheap through Parts Giant.
Or like ya said, sell all the Vette stuff since it's worth more and that could pay for
your new Aluminum radiator and electric fans or whatever else.
#24
Haha. The nursery has been done for a while now. The car is still at the body shop. I stopped by over the weekend an he said it should be in paint this week. So I'm thinking i might get it back by nov 1. I've been off work the last 2 weeks cleaning out my garage tryin to get my space back for the car to sit.
#25
What did you use for spraying primer? I'm assuming that's not a rattle can job...
Did you use a d/a sander for stripping?
I've got another tike on the way in March.... gonna lock down my project before then, or I'll be waiting a while...
Did you use a d/a sander for stripping?
I've got another tike on the way in March.... gonna lock down my project before then, or I'll be waiting a while...
#26
I'm not sure what type of primer and stuff he used. It's a buddy of mine that does body work on the side out of his house. He has a paint booth and everything. We media blasted the car with soda. After that, he has done everything.
I hear on the project. My son is due in nov so I was hoping to get the car back so I can work on it a bit, and get rid of some new of the extra parts in the garage. But I can't complain too much. The price is WELL worth the wait!
I hear on the project. My son is due in nov so I was hoping to get the car back so I can work on it a bit, and get rid of some new of the extra parts in the garage. But I can't complain too much. The price is WELL worth the wait!
#27
Just got this pic from my buddy. He has the firewall, dash, and rear window area painted black. Looks like the car will be in paint Tues and hopefully home by the weekend!
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#28
Paint is almost done!!!! Doing the frame swap Sunday and bringing her home!
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Last edited by firefighter5174; October 19th, 2011 at 03:28 PM.
#30
Yes, I went with the GM Medium Golf Blue. Now I have to decide what color for the stripes on the hood. I'm thinking a pearl white, since I'm going with a white interior.
Last edited by firefighter5174; October 19th, 2011 at 05:46 PM. Reason: correct color name
#34
#36
I went out there today and got the correct name for the blue. It is a gm medium gulf blue. It's was used on 00s grand prixs. The stripe is going to be a pearl white.
Last edited by firefighter5174; October 19th, 2011 at 03:41 PM.
#37
7 Months..... Sounds about normal. lol
The blue looks pretty friggin sweeeeeet.
This will be a totally badass build I'm sure.
Did you blast and powdercoat the frame and run all new brake and fuel lines while it's out ??
Now's the time to do all your major suspension and brake upgrades bro-heim.
Check out this Hotchkis TVS comparison video......stock suspension is horrible.
Seeing is believing. BTW get yourself a 93-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box from the pick n pulls.
12.7:1 vs 16.1 which is factory, it's a cheap and very simple upgrade that bolts right in with new rag joint.
http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...850#post837850
Are you doing the 6 speed swap too ??
The blue looks pretty friggin sweeeeeet.
This will be a totally badass build I'm sure.
Did you blast and powdercoat the frame and run all new brake and fuel lines while it's out ??
Now's the time to do all your major suspension and brake upgrades bro-heim.
Check out this Hotchkis TVS comparison video......stock suspension is horrible.
Seeing is believing. BTW get yourself a 93-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box from the pick n pulls.
12.7:1 vs 16.1 which is factory, it's a cheap and very simple upgrade that bolts right in with new rag joint.
http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...850#post837850
Are you doing the 6 speed swap too ??
Last edited by Aceshigh; October 19th, 2011 at 03:07 PM.
#38
He does the body work on his days off and weekends. Plus his wife just gave birth and he had to have surgery.
The frame had all the front suspension done when I got it and was painted black. So I left it alone and just put the rear suspension on it. I did buy all new stainless brake lines and am in the process of pricing the newer style fuel lines.
The guy doing the body work has a lift and I can use it anytime, so I'm not in that big of a hurry. Plus funds are on the low side...
I did find a cts-v oil pan and should be in the mail tomorrow, so I am hoping to set the motor in the car before he puts the front clip on it.
The frame had all the front suspension done when I got it and was painted black. So I left it alone and just put the rear suspension on it. I did buy all new stainless brake lines and am in the process of pricing the newer style fuel lines.
The guy doing the body work has a lift and I can use it anytime, so I'm not in that big of a hurry. Plus funds are on the low side...
I did find a cts-v oil pan and should be in the mail tomorrow, so I am hoping to set the motor in the car before he puts the front clip on it.
Last edited by firefighter5174; October 19th, 2011 at 05:49 PM.
#39
Aceshigh I cant keep up with your edits on my phone, so I had to get the computer! LOL.
The frames already got the jeep steering box on it! That was the first thing I bought. My 68 is getting one too when it's driving. It also has front discs/rear drum (for now).
I am not doing a 6 spd, Im sticking with the 4L60e, and Im going with a bench seat.
The frames already got the jeep steering box on it! That was the first thing I bought. My 68 is getting one too when it's driving. It also has front discs/rear drum (for now).
I am not doing a 6 spd, Im sticking with the 4L60e, and Im going with a bench seat.
Last edited by firefighter5174; October 19th, 2011 at 03:20 PM.
#40
Looks real nice! Love the blue. Gonna look sharp with white stripes and int, not that Im partial to those colors. Just curious it looks like your door strikers were left on during painting. Was this an oversight or on purpose. Mine were left on too and when doors were put back on and strikers adjusted there is now a gap of unpainted surface that shows.
Rob
Rob
Last edited by Beob; October 19th, 2011 at 04:32 PM.