malibru

I've been working on the F85 at regular intervals the last couple months now, thought I should start a thread here as it has been a major build for me. 7 years this past month, with what started as a car with a horrible engine knock, lots of rust and a totally worn out body/suspension.

The car had one repaint, probably by Earl Scheib for $99.95 back in the early 80's. The last owner had the car 10 years and managed to have new floors and trunk welded in. That's it.

When I began the teardown I never thought I would end up having the car jacked up off the body mounts in my garage with the front clip off. Now over time she has gotten new body mounts, all new front end componenents, new springs, shocks, and everything in between. I added a front disc brake setup that uses the 70's era GM 11" discs. Also added tubular control arms out back (sandblasted and rebuilt my stock front ones) on the BOP rear. Will eventually upgrade to a posi unit and better axles.

The 330 block and type 39 Jetaway went to good homes to Olds guys locally, who could put them to good use. I'm not restoring the car, but I am building it to my liking. This is the deepest I have been into a car in my life. Other cars I hot rodded over the years were left with worn out bushings, stock brakes, etc. At least this time I am starting with a now-solid foundation.

I will post up some photos here, maybe duplicating some I have posted other places here. Thanks so far to all who have answered my questions and given advice. It is sincerely appreciated.

To the Olds purists, I apologize for not keeping the car all Oldsmobile. The best I can do is all GM (I'm a Chevy man at heart). But it's what I've wanted to build for a long time, and rest assured this was not a rare 442 or the like. This car has been off the road for 17 years combined now, and it's time she made it back on the road! Thanks all for reading!

malibru

The day I picked her up. Drove her home 15 miles with a bad knock and overheating issues. Some 20w50 helped her along with several cool down and water breaks!

That's not me with the beard...

malibru

I have to download some other photos from my home computer that will show the front end and other parts. But more recently this winter the bodywork and paint were finished. Not perfect. But good for me as driver and on a budget.

malibru

Just put in the new 14" wheel today on my Ididit column. I need to adjust my steering shaft/splines to center the wheel (close enough before alignment anyway).

malibru

Lots of masking and cleanup before some new black satin on the instrument panel...

malibru

The third member of my family (my first son!) working on the third member. Spinning that speed handle! This was several years ago he was about 3....

malibru

New rims and tires. Much debate on this, with myself mainly. I wanted a classic look but updated. These are American Racing torq-thrust M wheels, anthracite centers. I wanted the 17" rim rather than 15" just to update the look. I think this works. The rims are 17x8 and tires are BFG's 235/50R17. To go to 245's also forces a 45 height, the 235 give an extra 1/2" off the rim. The way the car sits now with no motor/trans/interior obviously its up high. I want to close the gap at the top of the rear wheel well but I'll wait until everything is bolted in.

I don't have any tire rub in the rear as of now and up front they turn lock to lock, I'll have to see if that is still the case with the motor in.

Installed longer rear wheel studs today. I overlooked that 4-5 years ago when I had the rear apart. The 1 1/4" studs only allowed three threads engagement which I could never feel safe with. So for $20 in wheel studs and a couple hours today the new 1 3/4" version allowed me 10-11 full turns of thread engagement on the lug nuts. Much better!

Magna86

Sweet ride you have brought back to life. Now get that drivetrain in already! :-)

oldstata

Very nice 64lots of them popping up very well done job!

therobski

Looks great!!!!

malibru

ARghhhhhh!!!

Thanks Jegs. For the shifter I'm installing, that has a used plastic base with holes drilled in it and a 3" crack. Clearly someone swapped it out in the box and I got shafted. Of course, my $$$ to ship it back and wait for a replacement.

Thanks OPGI. For the "1964" front door panel upholstery I bought several years ago (yep, I've been gathering parts awhile) that is clearly not correct for my car. I've got several hours into modifying these and have had to cut off the entire top portion as mine did not cover the top of the door. Plus adding all the trim bits, and making new holes for the ones that aligned with, ahem, nothing. Not the armrest base. Not the window crank. Not the tiny holes for the trim. Not the badge holes. Suffice to say I spent too much time with an awl making new holes and carefully marking everything out.

Frustrating day on the build

malibru

Coming out OK. Just aggravating.

malibru

What a mess. I can't believe I took this thing this far apart...

malibru

Front disc brake conversion, new shocks, springs, all new front end components

malibru

The dreaded "Will I ever get back to working on this thing?" stage, combined with the "Just put junk all around, in, on top of, and under it and maybe it will be hidden" stage....

Thankfully it's not such a mess anymore!

oldstata

Looks like you got the door panels for a holiday coupe instead of the sports coupe looks good

I still stack stuff around on top and under it lol

therobski

Olds data is right about the door panels. I wonder if anybody makes the Club Coupe front and rear door panels. Club Coupes do not have rear arm rests. I will be in need soon. Malibu I don't if you looked up my thread in this section titled ( Update on 64 Post car) But your car is a cream puff compared to what I started with. I really should have parted it our had I'd hauled off. Basically I was a Evil-Bay victim and should have done a better job before I bought the car. But I could not part with her.

oldstata

Rob your club coup is slick and I am glad you put it back on the road I would be afraid to drive that thing lol

therobski

Mama says it will be our "RV" for things like the Power Tour. I appreciate your thoughts however I have to drive it like I stole it!!. But if someone comes along and wants to buy it, I will cry and sell it, it will give me more time to restore the 63 Corvette.

therobski

I call it my Picaso

malibru

Right you are Robski, no arm rests in the back of my club coupe. And as for door panels it's hard to tell. Sometimes the vendors don't really list or differentiate between the holiday, club, etc and say the parts are correct...only to find out they are not. Well in this case it is taking some extra work, but I'll make them look decent enough I suppose.

Robski if my car was a cream puff I would hate to have seen yours! I did find some old school newspaper stuffed patch jobs in my rockers, and nice roofing tin repairs to the front fenders behind the wheels. There was so much body filler they actually were sticking out from the side of the car like a bulge. It was ugly!

Exciting day for me. Started my engine build and got to open boxes of parts I've been accumulating for years. Dropped in my crank and installed pistons to rods, rings and installed them. Damn, thank you for tapered ring compressors! First time I ever used one instead of the old school ratcheting band type. All my clearances were within spec, end play on the crank, etc. It was nice to see the crank continue to slowly spin after I gave it a little nudge

Keep up on your car Robski she looks like a track beast!

oldstata

Lol your bondo on your car was just how They did it back then, here is what the whole car looked like for mine 4 repaints
DDC76512-6A21-4AA9-93ED-E7126766FAB1.jpg

therobski

Malibru thanks for your kind words. Most of you know fellow Club member " Run to Rund" Joe. Years ago he was coming to Dallas for the Olds Regional meeting and he was kind enough to haul the following replacements to Dallas from a yard in New Mexico:
2-post doors, core support , left front fender, section between the tail lights!
Then I removed the body installed all new floor and trunk braces and new complete trunk and floor , along with a new rear deck panel. She's rust free now with very minimum finishing filler.

malibru

Finally settled on a shifter location, now that I have the seats mocked up. I needed to use some spacers/washers as the front two mounting points ended up in the valley on the trans tunnel. But it came out rock solid, two bolts go through the frame support bracket underneath and the unit barely moves side to side. I rapped on the shifter several times in ratchet mode and appears to be solid.

Started my engine build, a long time coming but so satisfying to finally begin! I had to go back to my toolbox to dig out my ring expander and crank turning socket, which I forgot I even had. Then I was scratching my head looking for the oil pump mounting stud, until I found the new one ARP part I bought a few years ago as I was amassing sbc build parts. I guess that's a sign I took too long to get this project going

therobski

Malibru, saw the album. I just took these 2 pics and seems were both very close. I measure 18 inches from the trans tunnel seam to the shifter. 17 inches from the seat bracket, so there an inch difference between the to, that's it.

malibru

Robski I think you are correct, close enough. Makes me feel better knowing that truth be told. I guess it comes down to personal preference but at the same time the shifter needs to be in a spot where others can reach it too. I don't know yet how tall my three boys will be, there all lil' peanuts now!

malibru

Well since I ordered my interior bits a couple years ago, and had a hard time finding the correct front panels I had to use what I had. I re used the original stainless trim parts and badges, added new armrest pad and bases. Had to play around with some screws to find the right pitch and length to work on those armrests. The originals were rusty and heads were bad.

I made my own watershields out of 6 mil plastic I had because I couldn't see spending $20 on something as simple as that. I think it should work fine. The old door panels had a viking funeral in the burn barrel.

I think they came out ok, now to do the rear panels. I was shopping for seat covers and for the money, I ended up bringing the rear cushions to my upholsterer that I've used before. Also brought him the rear armrest metal bases to recover. Hoping for good results, I am using Procar front low back buckets that have five rows of stitching in two sets down the seat, he will try to duplicate that look. Will post how they come out!

therobski

Yes sir indeed. I got the "ORIGINAL" windshield and rear glass with all the LOF stamping's installed yesterday. They have some wear but cleaned up well. Will update my post soon!

malibru

I plan on having my bumpers powdercoated, possibly to match my wheels. Had a decent quote on the job, with blasting, $250. I removed all the light housings and realized I had quite a few dents and dings in the front corners. Tackled that by grinding down the chrome and welding up some puddles. Lots of flap wheel grinding work but overall only took me a couple of hours. Hopefully they came out smooth enough that the powdercoat will look decent. Hell it will probably look better than my paint job.

jcdynamic88

i see you are in western mass,i think it's funny that i bought the twin to your car from the original family in palmer,mass about 1.5 to 2 yearsago.right down to the color and bucket seat interior.it was actually quite nice with an old amateur repaint needing carpet and front seats reupholstered but very solid and ran great. sold it to a lady near me and now it's in new hampshire.

oldcutlass

Very nice work.

therobski

Malibru, I'm going to buy the Scat Procar highback buckets. I have the old front door panels for a template, but none for the rear, need the rear seat re-upholstered and will have to custom fit a carpet to work around the B@M Bandit shifter. So I think at this time is to get the front seats mounted, put down the sound deadener on the floor and car running and take it over too https://www.asmautoupholstery.com/ here in Dallas. They have been featured on a bunch of car shows on TV. And very reasonable for high quality work.

malibru

Thanks guys. I think the Procar seats are decent for the money, I was worried they might not be supportive enough but they are fine. The lowbacks I have seem to be bolstered well enough too. Robski I think you will like the high back version and they should be decent for tracking the car (I think that was your plan?).

My upholstery guy barely speaks English and has a small shop but usually does nice work. I'll see how he does with duplicating the procar stitching from my buckets to the rear bench. I'll be happy with anything other than the mouse-eaten version I had

Robski I bought 2 gallons of Lizardskin ceramic to put down under my carpet. I plan on using it in the trunk, floorpans and possibly underhood. I did buy the underhood insulation but I always hated that stuff, I'm thinking the lizardskin will perform better and look much cleaner. I tried it in the trunk the other day but my spray gun did not do well with it. I had an older undercoating gun and did not want to pay the $80 bucks for the lizardskin version; but mine did not cut it. I will try something else and post results. If it works I think it will be a much nicer solution and less expensive than dynamat or even the ebay versions of dynamat.

therobski

The whole underside was sprayed with Lizard skin before the body was put back on. My problem now is that I need to weld in my seat brackets I will most likely have to fix it because it will get to hot welding-I don't know how it will react. I bought Dynomat for interior floor, got it when was a big sale on it.

therobski

My trunk was sprayed with Lizard skin too.

64Rocket

If you are a chebby guy, why buy an OLDSMOBILE?
then down grade with that engine.

Gene

malibru

Well Gene, I love the bodystyle and it came along at the right time. And I didn't want any old GM to languish. The last owner let it sit for ten years.

As for the engine I guess all I can say is "to each his own". And I think I should tell you...I have owned foreign cars in my lifetime. I know, I know, sacrilege...

malibru

Robski I just picked up a different undercoating gun today and will try again. I didn't think to use it as an undercoating, but now that I see your photos I may touch up some areas with it. And yes, I think you will burn through with welding so some touchup may be in order.

malibru

Picked up from the shop last week, rear seats re upholstered and have a similar pattern to my front pro car seats. My guy did the rear seat cushions and both of the lower armrest bases for $250 which I thought was reasonable. Some of his stitching rows were not perfectly straight but I guess I will live with it.

malibru

Well the lizard skin ceramic came out well. I'm pleased with it, aesthetically anyway. Will see how well it keeps the noise and heat down. But I figure is will be better than all that heavy, rubbery factory style insulation.

I ended up using an Amazon sourced undercoating gun, about $28. I was not overly pleased with the spray pattern out of the gun but the final look is fine. I also sprayed the trunk which will only end up with a mat or rug cut to fit. So the rest will be visible and it looks better than trunk splatter spray IMHO.

The last step I will remove the hood and will spray the underside. I'm just not happy about using that insulation stuff with glue and clips. This will look alot cleaner.