therobski

Malibru, for whatever reason your pictures will not open?

oldcutlass

Rob, the issue is on your end.

malibru

Robski were you able to see those last two of the lizardskin? Wondering if the "finish" is similar to the results you had.

therobski

Yes sir, I had to reboot my box and pictures are fine now. Looks about the same, mine is in black. I had the body shop spray the underside while it was on the rotisserie. I bought some Dynomat sound deadener I caught on sale to lay down on the interior floor. Question: where did you get that braided wiring harness to run from the front to the rear floor pan? I still have the old copper flat wire and would like to replace it. My problem is I need to install new bucket seat brackets and they recommend welding them in. If I do that the heat from the welder will ruin part of the Lizard skin under coating. I saw several pictures of shops bolting them in securely. I may go that route. Thoughts?

malibru

Robski,

I'm using a painless muscle car harness, which has wiring bundle for the tail section. This includes brake, park, dome, turn signal, backup, and a third brake light switch. I may use that last one as a trigger wire someday if I ever put a line lock in

So that bundle of wires I used what's called spiral wrap. It comes in different diameters and colors, it is primarily used in the radio/TV studios. What I like about it is you can pull individual wires out as you go, so as I wrapped up the bundle I have the dome wires coming out in the pass compartment. It's neat and really protects them well. What I don't like? It's tough on the fingers wrapping it all on! My only concern is my carpet won't lay flat like with the original harness, but my plan is to cut a channel in the jute backing on the carpet where that harness follows the floor pan indentation. You can source that stuff from www.usplastic.com(3/8 diameter, black, $24 per 100 feet). Various sizes can be used but I wanted the bundle to be tight with the 8-9 wires I had.

Also, check out www.allelectronics.com. You can get all kinds of switches, wire, split loom tubing etc. I picked up some great led lighted round rocker switches and others there for much less than at the auto stores. Great deals there and shipping is usually reasonable. I stock up on crimp connectors there too. I think I paid maybe $1.75 for 10 foot rolls of that black split loom tubing, rather than $5 for 6' at Autozone. FWIW.

As to the seats, I think that if you used min. grade 5 fasteners, with large fender washers on the underside of floor pan it would be as good or better than welding the seat brackets. First I did burn off my nice Eastwood chassis black paint when I welded my angle iron. And, being 1/8 angle, welding to thin floor pan resulted in some extra holes. Ooops. That being said I think the weak link is the floor pan itself. I imagine If I really put my weight into the bolted in seat, I could almost flex the floor pan where it is welded to my brackets. I thing the floor pan would tear out before the welds! If I were to do it again I would use 3/8-16 bolts, nylock nuts on the inside with a washer and large fender underneath. My .02!

Kids are very handy for working that spiral wrap.....

therobski

If you notice the each end of the seat brackets sit right over the floor brace for added strength. That said The brackets would require maybe 3/8 threading screws, but I think that's the way I'm going to go. The after market brackets are a little different than GM. When I get back home this week I will take a pictures and show you. I will look up the other info and see if they have a replacement for the harness to the rear of the car.

malibru

It's amazing how many more "smalls" you need and things to figure out when you think you have covered it all. Like the dipstick that was the wrong size. Or pipe plugs that you thought you had.

Those rear armrest bases were no fun to install, and the carpet is not much fun either.

oldcutlass

Nice setup, I moved your thread to the non Olds powered.

malibru

Okay OldCutlass thank you, I was never really sure where to start that thread anyway!

RAMBOW

Why would you move a project thread to an engine forum?

There is a heck of a lot here that is not related to the engine... it belongs in the projects forum where it was IMO.

If someone is flagging this thread simply because it happens to have an LS in it, they need to get a life and move on to the next thread if they are offended.

oldcutlass

Because its non-olds powered, to eliminate arguments.

malibru

On my second set of headers, this is a tight fit for sure in that engine compartment with the steering shaft.

Interior is taking shape.

And yes it's non-Olds powered.

oldcutlass

Interior looks great. Headers on these cars are a struggle. Be thankful its not a sbo, its even tighter.

malibru

Really? Wow I guess thats why some resort to factory style manifolds . I was tempted for sure. I plan on using a heat resistant braided sleeve on some brake lines and wiring nearby. Don't want to boil my brake fluid for sure....

malibru

Couple of recent photos of under the front end. I think I need to tweak the tie rods a bit and get both my wheels pointed in the same direction. Then I can get the steering wheel clocked correctly, it's a quarter turn off now and every time I pull apart my steering linkage I move one or two splines and seem to end up wrong. My own fault really but I think I should have it as close to center as I can prior to a front end alignment. I don't know how much the shop can adjust to fix the position of the steering wheel.

Fabricated my trans cooler hard lines, was not so easy as I'm sure you guys know trying to keep one piece lines rather than multiple unions. Put a trans cooler on front of radiator and used hose with clamps there so there is some flex in the system.

Interior is getting there, still have not tackled the head liner and it's got me nervous. I know from reading here it would have been easier with the glass out. Bumpers came back from powder coat and came out great, gun metal gray to match color on my American Racing torq thrust "M" wheels. Some bumps and dings but those were areas I didn't weld up to fix.

In installed a derale electric fan with a thermostat switch to pull air on back side of radiator. Used my gutted AM radio on/off/volume **** as a manual overide if I want to force the fan on. The fan itself I wired to a timed power supply (charge guard is the name) that will time out so that if the fan stays running when the car turns off, it won't drain the battery. Will see how she runs and that works out. Getting ready to fire the engine and see if all my wiring over the last seven years is good to go.

therobski

That looks great, you have pulled a head of me. A friend of mine came over last Sunday after church and fabbed the Lokar throttle cable I have been issues with to work with this particular Q-jet. All is good now just put the rest of the linkage back and resume construction on other things-interior is one of them. Did you install the carpet? If so how did you work around the shifter?

malibru

Robski, carpet around the shifter was not super difficult, I would caution you to go slow though. I almost cut too far for my shifter cable hole, which the shifter base barely covers.

Since the shifter sits so high on the tunnel the base would touch front and rear, which you trim to fit with semi-circle cut outs. ( ) But I could only go so far until the inside of the base touches the metal mounting points. So on the left and right sides the base didn't touch the carpet. I ended up using a dense foam and jute padding from trimmed carpet pieces to "build out" the carpet under the sides of the base. That way it pushed the carpet out to touch the insides of the base so there was no open space there. I ended up cutting a "+" shape opening in carpet to push down over shifter, then just opened it up a bit. Left it tight around shifter and never cut out any kind of hole for it.

malibru

Thought I had the photo but I must have deleted it. Some days on the build are so frustrating. I was finding a small amount of brake fluid on the floor by my right rear, and since everything was new I had snugged the line, and the bleeder a couple times. But then I would get in the car and hit the brake pedal from time to time working under the dash, and find new puddles. So I finally tore down the wheel and pulled the wheel cylinder. Got away with leaving the shoes attached and only pulling a couple springs but this stuff can be so frustrating sometimes! So for a grand total of $9 I had grabbed a new wheel cylinder and I finally found my problem.....the inside seat on the original ("brand new") cylinder had the wrong flare! Looked like my invert flare was trying to seat against another invert flare...not gonna work!

Had the kids help pump the pedal, bled the line and now it's all set. A simple fix really but I think I had another gray hair pop today!

therobski

Hey Malibru welcome to my world! I have installed more than one "defective" new parts on my build too. Thanks for the detail on the carpet install. I did not do much to mine since the throttle cable problem has been solved. Its getting hot here-summer has arrived.

malibru

Well the wiring was correct except for one alternator issue that has been addressed. Had a couple of leaks and had to pull my intake again to find that my ultra black rtv never set up correctly on the end walls of my intake/motor.

That was fixed and ended up using the right stuff grey, much better except now my second set of intake gaskets leaked oil at the intake to/head. Had to get the better set (again) Fel pro printoseal, thicker gasket and this one did the trick.

Now I'm fighting with front spring height. I' think I'll end up cutting down my new factory front coils. Installed 2" drop springs and the fenders hit the top of the tires on my 17" rims so back to the drawing board.

malibru

Exhaust system fabricated and welded up. Had a local shop do this as it was a custom job, and I had the mufflers pushed back below the rear seat area. Went with a 2 1/2" system all the way. Mufflers are Hooker Aero chambers, first time I have tried these and this thing has a great "rap" when I rev it up! Loving the sound and they don't seem to drone as much as flowmasters I have tried in the past.

Still trying to dial in the motor and break it in, get my timing and carb right. This is how she sits now, still needs a headliner and finishing touches. Like any car I guess it will never be "done". Have a bit of blowby at the moment but only have about 50-60 miles on the motor, hoping the rings will seat as I fully break it in.

I think the stance is about right: this photo is a bit deceiving as it's sitting on a slight uphill driveway.

therobski

Malibru, got your email, sorry been on the road working. There's no fasteners holding the sail panels, it all tucks in and around the headliner. I'm home for a few days this week I can take pictures for you. Robski.........

oldstata

Yes sail panel is tucked in with the trim like the head liner there is a bar that is held I. With two screws pics not the best B98C3247-A641-4A1B-8F3F-B95992AB80C9.jpg
This pic is incorrect the headliner is stapled to this over it not behind like the pic shows
Here is the plastic trip on glass side holding the sail panel this side is old and falling apart B8E4D14D-8CC7-4EE9-AC19-36E057EF7D7B.jpg


On bro442 it shows how you can use the chevell trim even tho it's incorrect for our cars the sides are to short and its wider you need to order and extra top part and cut the sides out of it hope this helps

oldcutlass

Car is turning out nice.

therobski

I don't see how one could use these new seat brackets not welded to the floor. The smaller one-(B) pictured, the edges are small and where the stud is for the seat there's a space under neath between the floor and the bracket. I really don't want to weld and ruin my undercoating if really would like to bolt these in. Also, if you were to bolt theses in the floor brace gets in the way. You would have to drill through the floor pan and the floor brace, which actually would make it a lot stronger.

therobski

Just took this shot of the small bracket, it contours the floor pan, but notice there not much of an edge to drill a hole through and bolt it up?

oldcutlass

Can weld them to a fabricated bracket and use the stock mounting points to mount the brackets?

therobski

Eric I leaned on that thought a bunch and it seems the only logical answer. I do have some 3/16 plate I could weld the small bracket to it then bolt it in. I'm going to Milwaukee for the Car Craft Nationals this weekend, maybe when I get back I will fab up something up and post it. Thanks Eric.....

malibru

Oldstata,

Perfect! Those photos help. Now I know to use that metal bar to hold down the headliner up top, then put sail panels over it. My old headliner was mostly torn down and missing so I had no reference. Unfortunately my glass is installed so this job will be harder...but I'm sure there is a way to do it!

Just made a new package tray/shelf piece and installed that yesterday.

Thanks guys!

malibru

I understand you not wanting to ruin your undercoat. Which the welding will certainly do...it did on my car.

I second this thought: use some steel plate, hammer it into shape to match your floor pan. then weld your bracket to that plate. The plate can be bigger and allow you to relocate your attachment point to clear floor bracing and other obstructions. Maybe the plate only needs to be an inch larger all around than your bracket, and some grade 5 or 8 3/8-16 bolts to attach with. I suppose two bolts per would suffice with some fender washers under the floor pan.

I had the luxury of fabricating and welding mine up, and was able to touch up the underside after. But that being said I think your car is much more of a "correct" restoration than mine, and I don't know if you want to add bolts where none were originally.

therobski

I think I will fab up some plates, drill some holes in them. I will set the seat bracket on the plates and email some pictures some time next week. Thanks.

malibru

I think I messed up a bit. Do you guys know if the sail panel material should be wrapped around the cardboard backer, or does the excess wrap around and glue to the metal supports? Then does it get finished off with windlace? I'll be going to cruise nights to look at how other headliners/sail panels look.

After all this work, I'm daunted by the prospect of working on this damn headliner.

oldstata

Sail panel folds over to a smooth straight finish on top and bottom

Now on the sides front and rear get tucked around the steal pinch welds and the wind lace will hold it in place
5E7062BE-0B2F-424F-8A9D-0A8F67E044DE.jpg

D4832DDD-AC6C-4F96-A7C9-B93418260AAA.jpg

Where are the clips are the wind lace covers this area


Zoom in on this pic my windlace is only half done in this pic it should give you an idea
4AA2A033-9059-4FCF-B786-B59F70B7F813.jpg

Damikestr

I know this is an old thread but it seemed to “die out”. Wondering about the rest of it

therobski

Me too, and I would like to see a picture or 2 of the rear qtr. panel to see if the car had a console and how it was upholstered. Now that hopefully its going to cool off here I can get on with ans finish my interior. My base F-85 has no rear arm rest-console...great thread...

sjay1989

I love the satin finish! Mine is looking like crap. May do this Any tips on how to remove the instrument panel?