Chevy 5.3L Into '49 Convertible 98
January 26th, 2016, 10:00 PM
#1
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Chevy 5.3L Into '49 Convertible 98
I recently bought a beautiful '49 Olds 76. Runs fine but it needs band adjustment and has a bad oil pan gasket.
Along with the 76 I also bought a '49 98 convertible. This one is a basket case. It has an Olds 403 that was mounted in a bastardized front clip. it was done very amateurish and it looks like hell. The engine was left unfinished and uncovered. It's frozen now.
Not much I can do now but rip out the whole front end and start over again. The guy installing the custom front clip, has offered me a 2003 used Chevy 5.3L and 4L60 transmission. He will install the clip (with power steering), mount the engine and transmission, mount the radiator (I buy), wire it complete for $4,000.00.
He will remove the body off the frame grinding off the redone chassis mounts, and relocate to original position, straighten frame, and strengthen rear suspension, clean up old torched holes, clean up and cover up unused holes on firewall, powder coat, and hook up proper steering. $4500.00.
He recommends installing Ford 9 inch rear end...extra.
This guy has BNC and computerized plasma cutter. Anything I haven't covered?
I expect to have a complete running bottom end for my 98 convertible for around ten grand, and ready for restoration. Completed in two months. Body restoration, one year.
Will need suggestions for complete upholstery shop.
Along with the 76 I also bought a '49 98 convertible. This one is a basket case. It has an Olds 403 that was mounted in a bastardized front clip. it was done very amateurish and it looks like hell. The engine was left unfinished and uncovered. It's frozen now.
Not much I can do now but rip out the whole front end and start over again. The guy installing the custom front clip, has offered me a 2003 used Chevy 5.3L and 4L60 transmission. He will install the clip (with power steering), mount the engine and transmission, mount the radiator (I buy), wire it complete for $4,000.00.
He will remove the body off the frame grinding off the redone chassis mounts, and relocate to original position, straighten frame, and strengthen rear suspension, clean up old torched holes, clean up and cover up unused holes on firewall, powder coat, and hook up proper steering. $4500.00.
He recommends installing Ford 9 inch rear end...extra.
This guy has BNC and computerized plasma cutter. Anything I haven't covered?
I expect to have a complete running bottom end for my 98 convertible for around ten grand, and ready for restoration. Completed in two months. Body restoration, one year.
Will need suggestions for complete upholstery shop.
January 28th, 2016, 09:40 AM
#3
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Big project, keep us updated with pics. I love my 72 with a 5.3 as a daily driver.
BTW, the Ford 9" is kind of overkill for a 5.3. Any GM 10 bolt will hold up fine if you can find a stock width that will work.
BTW, the Ford 9" is kind of overkill for a 5.3. Any GM 10 bolt will hold up fine if you can find a stock width that will work.
January 28th, 2016, 09:55 AM
#4
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Right now I'm being quoted a kit with Ford 9 inch with limited slip, 4:11 gears, 31 spline with disc brakes. Installed $1,865.00. Might consider 3:70 rear end.
Last edited by Oldsr4me; January 28th, 2016 at 09:59 AM.
January 28th, 2016, 10:49 AM
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Very cool project. Will be sweet with the LS in it.
What about steering column and linkage? I see "power steering", but will he connect it all safely for you?
And is he guaranteeing header or exhaust manifold fitment/clearance for the steering? This can be a huge headache on LS swaps (I bought six different sets of headers, and still ended up modifying mine and recoating them).
Is he just installing a 9" into the stock 49 rear suspension setup?
Don't think you really need/want steep gears like that with the 4L60.....I went with 3.55:1 with my LS2 and 4L65e. Should be great off the line a give great gas mileage the freeway.
Not unreasonable if he's doing all this and fitting up the body panels. Unless it's a FATMAN front, getting the front sheet metal to go back on can be a bear for sure.
Good luck and make a build thread when the work starts!
Joe
What about steering column and linkage? I see "power steering", but will he connect it all safely for you?
And is he guaranteeing header or exhaust manifold fitment/clearance for the steering? This can be a huge headache on LS swaps (I bought six different sets of headers, and still ended up modifying mine and recoating them).
Is he just installing a 9" into the stock 49 rear suspension setup?
Don't think you really need/want steep gears like that with the 4L60.....I went with 3.55:1 with my LS2 and 4L65e. Should be great off the line a give great gas mileage the freeway.
Not unreasonable if he's doing all this and fitting up the body panels. Unless it's a FATMAN front, getting the front sheet metal to go back on can be a bear for sure.
Good luck and make a build thread when the work starts!
Joe
Last edited by jozw30; January 28th, 2016 at 10:50 AM. Reason: Typo
January 28th, 2016, 10:57 AM
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Pretty high gears for street driver and 4L60.
The 9" is probably the best out there but still kinda overkill for a 300-350hp motor.
And yeah, you can get most stock GM rears with posi at a fraction of that cost. You might look for a stock width that will fit your frame. Just a cheaper alternative.
The 9" is probably the best out there but still kinda overkill for a 300-350hp motor.
And yeah, you can get most stock GM rears with posi at a fraction of that cost. You might look for a stock width that will fit your frame. Just a cheaper alternative.
January 28th, 2016, 06:20 PM
#8
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No. He'll supply the wiring that comes off the engine, including computer wiring, routed into the body. I will need to supply all switches and gauges and harness where necessary to match up to the engine wiring.
January 28th, 2016, 06:36 PM
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Pretty high gears for street driver and 4L60.
The 9" is probably the best out there but still kinda overkill for a 300-350hp motor.
And yeah, you can get most stock GM rears with posi at a fraction of that cost. You might look for a stock width that will fit your frame. Just a cheaper alternative.
The 9" is probably the best out there but still kinda overkill for a 300-350hp motor.
And yeah, you can get most stock GM rears with posi at a fraction of that cost. You might look for a stock width that will fit your frame. Just a cheaper alternative.
It gets up and moves in 1st and 2nd and cruises nicely in overdrive, but around town the motor begins to lug in 3rd or overdrive and I find it better to be out of overdrive mode or drive in 2nd gear.
I will look into a GM Posi, but I want to change out the whole rear end to one that includes gears, axles, and disc brakes. If I can find a posi unit that provides all that, I will consider it, other wise I don't see anything wrong with an overkill.
Last edited by Oldsr4me; January 28th, 2016 at 06:41 PM.
January 28th, 2016, 07:29 PM
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Very cool project. Will be sweet with the LS in it. Not really an LS. It's a 5.3 but will get upgraded with cold induction, shorty headers, and modified computer chip.
What about steering column and linkage? I see "power steering", but will he connect it all safely for you? Yes, he will make sure steering clears engine and headers, although I may have to buy an Ididit, or CPP steering column assembly to replace a shoddy looking one on there now.
And is he guaranteeing header or exhaust manifold fitment/clearance for the steering? This can be a huge headache on LS swaps (I bought six different sets of headers, and still ended up modifying mine and recoating them). We discussed that and he will modify inner walls to facilitate use of "shorty" headers if need to, or where needed.
Is he just installing a 9" into the stock 49 rear suspension setup? Nope. It's the entire rear end, including disc brakes.
Don't think you really need/want steep gears like that with the 4L60.....I went with 3.55:1 with my LS2 and 4L65e. Should be great off the line a give great gas mileage the freeway. I really don't think a 3.70, or 3.73:1 is that bad with 325 to 350 hp engine.
Not unreasonable if he's doing all this and fitting up the body panels. Unless it's a FATMAN front, getting the front sheet metal to go back on can be a bear for sure. For sure, but he's told me he can do it and make it look clean.
Good luck and make a build thread when the work starts! Here's some pics of my car at his shop, and some of the custom work he does. I plan to do a lot of powder coating, and a dress up kit for the engine. He has a computerized plasma cutter that's great for cutting custom pieces. He specializes on work for straightening and reinforcing suspensions for off road vehicles.
Joe
What about steering column and linkage? I see "power steering", but will he connect it all safely for you? Yes, he will make sure steering clears engine and headers, although I may have to buy an Ididit, or CPP steering column assembly to replace a shoddy looking one on there now.
And is he guaranteeing header or exhaust manifold fitment/clearance for the steering? This can be a huge headache on LS swaps (I bought six different sets of headers, and still ended up modifying mine and recoating them). We discussed that and he will modify inner walls to facilitate use of "shorty" headers if need to, or where needed.
Is he just installing a 9" into the stock 49 rear suspension setup? Nope. It's the entire rear end, including disc brakes.
Don't think you really need/want steep gears like that with the 4L60.....I went with 3.55:1 with my LS2 and 4L65e. Should be great off the line a give great gas mileage the freeway. I really don't think a 3.70, or 3.73:1 is that bad with 325 to 350 hp engine.
Not unreasonable if he's doing all this and fitting up the body panels. Unless it's a FATMAN front, getting the front sheet metal to go back on can be a bear for sure. For sure, but he's told me he can do it and make it look clean.
Good luck and make a build thread when the work starts! Here's some pics of my car at his shop, and some of the custom work he does. I plan to do a lot of powder coating, and a dress up kit for the engine. He has a computerized plasma cutter that's great for cutting custom pieces. He specializes on work for straightening and reinforcing suspensions for off road vehicles.
Joe
January 29th, 2016, 04:36 AM
#11
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Same basic platform....
On the rear I was more asking about if he was making suspension upgrades. Like changing to 4-link vs. leaf spring, etc.
Also wasn't worried about HP with gear ratio, more about drivability, vs comfort, vs mileage. Assume you've researched the 4l60 gear ratios and are comfortable with what you'll get using the steeper rear gears. This is definitely a personal preference thing, so have at it.
The harness and computer work will run another $400-$600
After going through all of the work you are about to, if this guy is competent and can safely do everything you say he is promising, and you have the funds, I'd get the car in his shop right away $4,000.00 is a steal!
I'm not sure you can source all of the parts for that part of the build for much less than that.......stuff adds up fast.
What front suspension parts is he planning to use?
Definitely interested in following your build!
On the rear I was more asking about if he was making suspension upgrades. Like changing to 4-link vs. leaf spring, etc.
Also wasn't worried about HP with gear ratio, more about drivability, vs comfort, vs mileage. Assume you've researched the 4l60 gear ratios and are comfortable with what you'll get using the steeper rear gears. This is definitely a personal preference thing, so have at it.
The harness and computer work will run another $400-$600
After going through all of the work you are about to, if this guy is competent and can safely do everything you say he is promising, and you have the funds, I'd get the car in his shop right away $4,000.00 is a steal!
I'm not sure you can source all of the parts for that part of the build for much less than that.......stuff adds up fast.
What front suspension parts is he planning to use?
Definitely interested in following your build!
January 29th, 2016, 07:51 AM
#12
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Same basic platform....
On the rear I was more asking about if he was making suspension upgrades. Like changing to 4-link vs. leaf spring, etc. I know he told me he was going to beef up the suspension in the rear, but not sure how. I'll ask today.
Also wasn't worried about HP with gear ratio, more about drivability, vs comfort, vs mileage. Assume you've researched the 4l60 gear ratios and are comfortable with what you'll get using the steeper rear gears. This is definitely a personal preference thing, so have at it. The transmission is off a 2000 Suburban so I assume it's a 4L60e with electronic shift capability. As for gear ratio, I think I will follow your guys advise and go to a higher gear ratio. Probably a 3:50 or 3:55...thanks for that.
The harness and computer work will run another $400-$600. Any harness preference?
After going through all of the work you are about to, if this guy is competent and can safely do everything you say he is promising, and you have the funds, I'd get the car in his shop right away $4,000.00 is a steal! Total cost at present including engine and drive train installation including all mounts, braces, supports, and frame alignment and cleanup, but without radiator, and internal wiring, gas tank for f/I, Wilwood brake system, is at about $10,800.00. I will also need shift linkage and some sort of détente and lens for the gear selector. I may go electronic shift and eliminate that concern. Any suggestions?
I'm not sure you can source all of the parts for that part of the build for much less than that.......stuff adds up fast.
What front suspension parts is he planning to use? I believe it is all part of the kit, and whatever isn't, he'll fab. I'll ask for kit name
Definitely interested in following your build!
On the rear I was more asking about if he was making suspension upgrades. Like changing to 4-link vs. leaf spring, etc. I know he told me he was going to beef up the suspension in the rear, but not sure how. I'll ask today.
Also wasn't worried about HP with gear ratio, more about drivability, vs comfort, vs mileage. Assume you've researched the 4l60 gear ratios and are comfortable with what you'll get using the steeper rear gears. This is definitely a personal preference thing, so have at it. The transmission is off a 2000 Suburban so I assume it's a 4L60e with electronic shift capability. As for gear ratio, I think I will follow your guys advise and go to a higher gear ratio. Probably a 3:50 or 3:55...thanks for that.
The harness and computer work will run another $400-$600. Any harness preference?
After going through all of the work you are about to, if this guy is competent and can safely do everything you say he is promising, and you have the funds, I'd get the car in his shop right away $4,000.00 is a steal! Total cost at present including engine and drive train installation including all mounts, braces, supports, and frame alignment and cleanup, but without radiator, and internal wiring, gas tank for f/I, Wilwood brake system, is at about $10,800.00. I will also need shift linkage and some sort of détente and lens for the gear selector. I may go electronic shift and eliminate that concern. Any suggestions?
I'm not sure you can source all of the parts for that part of the build for much less than that.......stuff adds up fast.
What front suspension parts is he planning to use? I believe it is all part of the kit, and whatever isn't, he'll fab. I'll ask for kit name
Definitely interested in following your build!
Bob
Last edited by Oldsr4me; January 29th, 2016 at 08:54 AM.
January 29th, 2016, 11:30 AM
#13
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Finally got the car up on a lift. What a mess! Lotsa cutting and welding but it will get cleaned up. Start of by taking the frame off and having it sandblasted, then reposition mounts back to normal and reinforce where necessary.
One bit of good news is that I have a 3.08:1 positraction rear end. Couldn't find a number except on the 3rd member case (235188). Couldn't find anything on this number.
Gonna leave it drums in back and disc brakes in front with Wilwood brake system. Rack power steering.
Bob
image.jpg
One bit of good news is that I have a 3.08:1 positraction rear end. Couldn't find a number except on the 3rd member case (235188). Couldn't find anything on this number.
Gonna leave it drums in back and disc brakes in front with Wilwood brake system. Rack power steering.
Bob
image.jpg
January 30th, 2016, 06:31 AM
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You know hat they about budgets for stuff like this.....certainly was true in my case.
I used Wayne Hartwig at www.150tunes.com to convert my LS2 harness. Sent it back all stripped, cleaned, re-wrapped, labeled with a base tune to my cars specifics. He also will do free tunes for life if you ship the computer back to him. There are others out there, but he's the only one I've had experience with. Send the harnes and ECM out early, these guys are not fast.
You should be able to adapt a Lokar cable to your existing column shift. I used a universal column shift cable and made a late model Buick floor shifter work in my custom console.....just takes some fiddling around.
Sounds like you know what your getting into. If he's done this before, you should be in good shape. I've done everything myself, which explains the 5 year timeline.
Look forward to updates.
If he does everything right, and this is your only LS swapped car, I bet it becomes your favorite one to drive.
I used Wayne Hartwig at www.150tunes.com to convert my LS2 harness. Sent it back all stripped, cleaned, re-wrapped, labeled with a base tune to my cars specifics. He also will do free tunes for life if you ship the computer back to him. There are others out there, but he's the only one I've had experience with. Send the harnes and ECM out early, these guys are not fast.
You should be able to adapt a Lokar cable to your existing column shift. I used a universal column shift cable and made a late model Buick floor shifter work in my custom console.....just takes some fiddling around.
Sounds like you know what your getting into. If he's done this before, you should be in good shape. I've done everything myself, which explains the 5 year timeline.
Look forward to updates.
If he does everything right, and this is your only LS swapped car, I bet it becomes your favorite one to drive.
January 30th, 2016, 09:48 PM
#15
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You know hat they about budgets for stuff like this.....certainly was true in my case.
I used Wayne Hartwig at www.150tunes.com to convert my LS2 harness. Sent it back all stripped, cleaned, re-wrapped, labeled with a base tune to my cars specifics. He also will do free tunes for life if you ship the computer back to him. There are others out there, but he's the only one I've had experience with. Send the harnes and ECM out early, these guys are not fast.
You should be able to adapt a Lokar cable to your existing column shift. I used a universal column shift cable and made a late model Buick floor shifter work in my custom console.....just takes some fiddling around.
Sounds like you know what your getting into. If he's done this before, you should be in good shape. I've done everything myself, which explains the 5 year timeline.
Look forward to updates.
If he does everything right, and this is your only LS swapped car, I bet it becomes your favorite one to drive.
I used Wayne Hartwig at www.150tunes.com to convert my LS2 harness. Sent it back all stripped, cleaned, re-wrapped, labeled with a base tune to my cars specifics. He also will do free tunes for life if you ship the computer back to him. There are others out there, but he's the only one I've had experience with. Send the harnes and ECM out early, these guys are not fast.
You should be able to adapt a Lokar cable to your existing column shift. I used a universal column shift cable and made a late model Buick floor shifter work in my custom console.....just takes some fiddling around.
Sounds like you know what your getting into. If he's done this before, you should be in good shape. I've done everything myself, which explains the 5 year timeline.
Look forward to updates.
If he does everything right, and this is your only LS swapped car, I bet it becomes your favorite one to drive.
Kind of early to make final decisions yet, but I need to start getting my ducks in a row. The 5.3L will be improved from the stock 285hp to about 350hp (I Hope). LS2 cam, crossover intake manifold, and 4 inch cold air induction tubes. Headers.
Yes, I'm sure I'll like the LS in the Olds. It's gonna look frickin' awesome in the restomod Olds convertible...but I have a '42 Merc with the smoothest sounding flattie. I also have the '49 olds coupe with Big Six which looks great, and I've got two Chevies. One with a PowerPack 265ci, and the other with a souped up 327 with a 3sp manual with overdrive. This last one is my prize drive.
I'll try and download pics of the engines, but this forum doesn't always many pictures.
January 31st, 2016, 05:29 AM
#16
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I see you are getting advice over on Trifive.com. That's what I've been doing for a couple of years for my 55 88 build, good guys if you keep your questions LS swap related. Cars are similar enough for general learning and fab ideas.
If you are interested, my 55 88 build thread is also in the non-Olds engine section here. I keep it going for the few guys that show interest.......
It's long as I've mentioned, I'm doing 90% of the work myself so I learn as I go and am on a budget.
Will be following your build for sure.
If you are interested, my 55 88 build thread is also in the non-Olds engine section here. I keep it going for the few guys that show interest.......
It's long as I've mentioned, I'm doing 90% of the work myself so I learn as I go and am on a budget.
Will be following your build for sure.
January 31st, 2016, 05:47 AM
#17
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Finally got the car up on a lift. What a mess! Lotsa cutting and welding but it will get cleaned up. Start of by taking the frame off and having it sandblasted, then reposition mounts back to normal and reinforce where necessary.
One bit of good news is that I have a 3.08:1 positraction rear end. Couldn't find a number except on the 3rd member case (235188). Couldn't find anything on this number.
Gonna leave it drums in back and disc brakes in front with Wilwood brake system. Rack power steering.
Bob
Attachment 130717
One bit of good news is that I have a 3.08:1 positraction rear end. Couldn't find a number except on the 3rd member case (235188). Couldn't find anything on this number.
Gonna leave it drums in back and disc brakes in front with Wilwood brake system. Rack power steering.
Bob
Attachment 130717
January 31st, 2016, 08:35 AM
#18
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I see you are getting advice over on Trifive.com. That's what I've been doing for a couple of years for my 55 88 build, good guys if you keep your questions LS swap related. Cars are similar enough for general learning and fab ideas.
If you are interested, my 55 88 build thread is also in the non-Olds engine section here. I keep it going for the few guys that show interest.......
It's long as I've mentioned, I'm doing 90% of the work myself so I learn as I go and am on a budget.
Will be following your build for sure.
If you are interested, my 55 88 build thread is also in the non-Olds engine section here. I keep it going for the few guys that show interest.......
It's long as I've mentioned, I'm doing 90% of the work myself so I learn as I go and am on a budget.
Will be following your build for sure.
I don't have the time or inclination to do the actual work itself, but I will be an integral part in the selection and direction in its reconstruction. I learned a lot on Trifive, and I'm getting some good questions and advice here on Classic Olds. They are not too forgiving on Realoldspower, and I haven't been on there in a while.
I live about 500 miles from where the Olds is being restored, so I won't have daily interaction, with the fab shop...which is probably good. But I will be there every two or three weeks to check on progress, and authorize changes and/improvements. I had thought of using shorty headers, but I'm getting suggestions I should go with long headers. I could have the frame redesigned to accommodate them if I go that route.
I'll look up your thread on "non-Olds".
Thanks.
Bob
January 31st, 2016, 10:04 AM
#19
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Since the guy still has the donor vehicle in pretty good shape, I'm hoping I'll be able to make it a trouble free swap. The guy does great fab work. The computer work is part of the job, but not the interconnect harness/wiring. I own a cable and harness operation so making a harness would be a piece of cake if I can make a jig or harness board. He was talking about mounting the brake cylinder underneath.
Your thread will be a big help to me as my other restorations were nowhere as complex.
Thanks.
Bob
February 3rd, 2016, 08:36 PM
#20
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Update 02-03-16
I don't know if the teardown has begun on my restoration, but I've already changed my mind on a few things that might make for an easier restoration.
I'm replacing my old steering column with one from Flaming River. I will go with a column or floor shifter instead of a push button panel. I am doing away with AC, and instead concentrating on a top quality insulation from firewall to back of car. Don't know what I can do about insulating ragtop. Normally an open window with some cross ventilation is sufficient here in the Summertime. A good heater and vent system will be in order. I hope I can find an aftermarket heater for a '49 Olds because there is no aftermarket A/C's.
I'm replacing my old steering column with one from Flaming River. I will go with a column or floor shifter instead of a push button panel. I am doing away with AC, and instead concentrating on a top quality insulation from firewall to back of car. Don't know what I can do about insulating ragtop. Normally an open window with some cross ventilation is sufficient here in the Summertime. A good heater and vent system will be in order. I hope I can find an aftermarket heater for a '49 Olds because there is no aftermarket A/C's.
February 4th, 2016, 04:17 AM
#21
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If you go with the 90 degree under dash brake set up, make sure he reinforces the firewall. They were not designed to take the brake pedal load.
Also, I wouldn't give up on the AC unless you are just dead set on not having it. I think it could hurt resale later....
I was able to adapt the OLD AIR Products system for a Trifive Chevy without much trouble. I just had to make my own mounting brackets. You could probably do the same with a system from them or Vintage Air. You just have to get all of the factory stuff stripped off.
One of a thousand decisions.....
Also, I wouldn't give up on the AC unless you are just dead set on not having it. I think it could hurt resale later....
I was able to adapt the OLD AIR Products system for a Trifive Chevy without much trouble. I just had to make my own mounting brackets. You could probably do the same with a system from them or Vintage Air. You just have to get all of the factory stuff stripped off.
One of a thousand decisions.....
February 4th, 2016, 08:03 AM
#22
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If you go with the 90 degree under dash brake set up, make sure he reinforces the firewall. They were not designed to take the brake pedal load.
Also, I wouldn't give up on the AC unless you are just dead set on not having it. I think it could hurt resale later....
I was able to adapt the OLD AIR Products system for a Trifive Chevy without much trouble. I just had to make my own mounting brackets. You could probably do the same with a system from them or Vintage Air. You just have to get all of the factory stuff stripped off.
One of a thousand decisions.....
Also, I wouldn't give up on the AC unless you are just dead set on not having it. I think it could hurt resale later....
I was able to adapt the OLD AIR Products system for a Trifive Chevy without much trouble. I just had to make my own mounting brackets. You could probably do the same with a system from them or Vintage Air. You just have to get all of the factory stuff stripped off.
One of a thousand decisions.....
I worry about the available space. For example the condenser and electric fans, and new location for AC pump.
The fab guy was asking for a template for mounting the AC under the dash. He can create vents on the dash if I decide to go that route.
It's difficult for me to get actual dimensions on the 98 because the car is 500 miles away, but I have my 76 here in my storage garage that should be close.
February 4th, 2016, 11:25 PM
#23
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If you go with the 90 degree under dash brake set up, make sure he reinforces the firewall. They were not designed to take the brake pedal load.
Also, I wouldn't give up on the AC unless you are just dead set on not having it. I think it could hurt resale later....
I was able to adapt the OLD AIR Products system for a Trifive Chevy without much trouble. I just had to make my own mounting brackets. You could probably do the same with a system from them or Vintage Air. You just have to get all of the factory stuff stripped off.
One of a thousand decisions.....
Also, I wouldn't give up on the AC unless you are just dead set on not having it. I think it could hurt resale later....
I was able to adapt the OLD AIR Products system for a Trifive Chevy without much trouble. I just had to make my own mounting brackets. You could probably do the same with a system from them or Vintage Air. You just have to get all of the factory stuff stripped off.
One of a thousand decisions.....
Do you know anything about this model. Red Dot sells others.
Thanks,
Bob
February 5th, 2016, 04:07 AM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 696
Don't know anything about that product.
If you go here
http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalo...120132010.html
They have products tailored for 37-54 Oldsmobiles. I'm sure there is some custom fab involved to get it mounted (like mine), but they also sell the under dash systems like the one you are looking at. These have the controls integrated in the front of their unit......? And they are car guys.
I'm not endorsing these guys as I haven't used mine yet, but they had the most compact evap unit which I needed with the under dash brake assembly. They also got good reviews online in general comparable to vintage air.
If you go here
http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalo...120132010.html
They have products tailored for 37-54 Oldsmobiles. I'm sure there is some custom fab involved to get it mounted (like mine), but they also sell the under dash systems like the one you are looking at. These have the controls integrated in the front of their unit......? And they are car guys.
I'm not endorsing these guys as I haven't used mine yet, but they had the most compact evap unit which I needed with the under dash brake assembly. They also got good reviews online in general comparable to vintage air.
February 7th, 2016, 12:49 PM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 129
Don't know anything about that product.
If you go here
http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalo...120132010.html
They have products tailored for 37-54 Oldsmobiles. I'm sure there is some custom fab involved to get it mounted (like mine), but they also sell the under dash systems like the one you are looking at. These have the controls integrated in the front of their unit......? And they are car guys.
I'm not endorsing these guys as I haven't used mine yet, but they had the most compact evap unit which I needed with the under dash brake assembly. They also got good reviews online in general comparable to vintage air.
If you go here
http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalo...120132010.html
They have products tailored for 37-54 Oldsmobiles. I'm sure there is some custom fab involved to get it mounted (like mine), but they also sell the under dash systems like the one you are looking at. These have the controls integrated in the front of their unit......? And they are car guys.
I'm not endorsing these guys as I haven't used mine yet, but they had the most compact evap unit which I needed with the under dash brake assembly. They also got good reviews online in general comparable to vintage air.
February 8th, 2016, 10:15 AM
#26
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Camdenton, MO
Posts: 342
I've installed the Classic Air universal kit because it was so simple to modify for a custom install. See my comments in post #2
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...rmarket-c.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...rmarket-c.html
February 8th, 2016, 07:30 PM
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 129
I've installed the Classic Air universal kit because it was so simple to modify for a custom install. See my comments in post #2
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...rmarket-c.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...rmarket-c.html
I do want to decide on a model so I can have my fab guy begin to allow for mounting and routing of hoses, wiring and cables.
Thanks.
Bob
February 15th, 2016, 11:24 PM
#28
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 129
It's Begun 02/13/16
Fab shop has begun taking the car apart. No surprises as far as the front clip goes, but the body mounts are all pretty helter skelter.
They didn't look right when I went under the car to see what the previous owners had done. Now it's up to him to put it all back together correctly once he takes it apart. The 403 engine and 350 xmission will be thrown out.
They didn't look right when I went under the car to see what the previous owners had done. Now it's up to him to put it all back together correctly once he takes it apart. The 403 engine and 350 xmission will be thrown out.
Last edited by Oldsr4me; February 15th, 2016 at 11:27 PM.
August 1st, 2016, 01:14 PM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 129
Progress As Of 08/01/16
Progress has been slow on my '49 98 convertible, but it's coming along.
Fuel tank is in, all cancer removed and repaired, frame off restoration included restoring all body mounts repaired or replaced. Firewall holes all covered up but left ribbing in place. Engine and front clip removed, and new clip with S10 A arms and disc brakes installed. Engine goes in this week.
Pics to follow.
Bob
Fuel tank is in, all cancer removed and repaired, frame off restoration included restoring all body mounts repaired or replaced. Firewall holes all covered up but left ribbing in place. Engine and front clip removed, and new clip with S10 A arms and disc brakes installed. Engine goes in this week.
Pics to follow.
Bob
August 1st, 2016, 04:56 PM
#31
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 129
image2.JPG
New trunk cavity.jpg
Gas tank inside trunk.jpg
Front Clip 2.JPG
Front Clip 4.JPG
Front Clip 5.JPG
Front Clip 1.JPGFollowing are some pics of the progress done with my '49 convertible. Body was removed from frame and work was done simultaneously to both halves. The frame was sandblasted and the body amounts repaired and readjusted, and the whole frame was repainted. The body was repaired of all cancer.
Following are pics of the progress.
Bob
New trunk cavity.jpg
Gas tank inside trunk.jpg
Front Clip 2.JPG
Front Clip 4.JPG
Front Clip 5.JPG
Front Clip 1.JPGFollowing are some pics of the progress done with my '49 convertible. Body was removed from frame and work was done simultaneously to both halves. The frame was sandblasted and the body amounts repaired and readjusted, and the whole frame was repainted. The body was repaired of all cancer.
Following are pics of the progress.
Bob
August 2nd, 2016, 08:26 AM
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 129
No, it's not an S10 clip. The clip is custom made and installed using the shop's own alignment jig. The only thing from an S10 is the A arms. It's not bolted. If anything, it appears to be riveted. I just asked him if there is a welding seam I don't see.
The clip was installed correctly aligned, and set for the correct wheel base. The front of the clip was left a little long to allow for the correct placement of the front bumper.
One of the previous owners did a terrible job of welding a clip to add a later Olds engine. As you can see they slanted the radiator to make it fit. Mine will be better designed and possibly using a horizontal core radiator.
We are now researching the correct cooling system, and also the headers. I'm hoping we can find something off the shelf. The cold induction system will also be custom made.
The clip was installed correctly aligned, and set for the correct wheel base. The front of the clip was left a little long to allow for the correct placement of the front bumper.
One of the previous owners did a terrible job of welding a clip to add a later Olds engine. As you can see they slanted the radiator to make it fit. Mine will be better designed and possibly using a horizontal core radiator.
We are now researching the correct cooling system, and also the headers. I'm hoping we can find something off the shelf. The cold induction system will also be custom made.
August 3rd, 2016, 05:07 PM
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 129
August 3rd, 2016, 09:50 PM
#40
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 129
More update pics
Engine not installed. Just ordered Sanderson Ceramic coated steel shorty headers From Summit racing. Delivery 08/19. Mounts need to be located.
Front clip and power steering rack now in place. Still need to order Flaming River steering column.
Some more pics...
Drivers side frame to clip.JPG
Frame to clip cover.JPG
left side of frame to clip and view of power steering rack.JPG
Power steering rack.JPG
Angle view of power steering rack.JPG
Front clip and power steering rack now in place. Still need to order Flaming River steering column.
Some more pics...
Drivers side frame to clip.JPG
Frame to clip cover.JPG
left side of frame to clip and view of power steering rack.JPG
Power steering rack.JPG
Angle view of power steering rack.JPG
