1959 Olds 98 Heat and Vent Controls
#1
1959 Olds 98 Heat and Vent Controls
I think my dash controls have a vacuum leak. I got vacuum up to the tee under the dash just before the controls. I bypassed the controls and the blower worked and heat came out from the core. But nothing when hooked up. So I think the rotary control may have a leak.
How do the controls come out. Looks like from behind but what a hard way to remove them.
Anyone know how they come out? This is a non AC car.
How do the controls come out. Looks like from behind but what a hard way to remove them.
Anyone know how they come out? This is a non AC car.
#2
As I read the shop manual. To get heat, the control on the vents must be off and to get vents the heat control must be off.
So off must be when no vacuum is allowed into the controls. So if I block the vacuum to the vent control and try to operate the heat and if it works I may have a vacuum leak in the vent control. If I do the opposite and plug the vacuum line to the heater and operate the vent and it works the leak is in the heater control.
Would this be correct?
So off must be when no vacuum is allowed into the controls. So if I block the vacuum to the vent control and try to operate the heat and if it works I may have a vacuum leak in the vent control. If I do the opposite and plug the vacuum line to the heater and operate the vent and it works the leak is in the heater control.
Would this be correct?
#4
I have good vacuum to the tee in the diagram. It's bad coming out of the controls since I bypassed the control and put vacuum to the heater diaphragm and blower. That worked. Blower blew hot air into car.
I am trying to determine if its in the control. Then I can go from there out to the diaphragms.
So I was thinking block off one side of tee where vacuum line comes in and see if the other side control works and vice versa.
I am trying to determine if its in the control. Then I can go from there out to the diaphragms.
So I was thinking block off one side of tee where vacuum line comes in and see if the other side control works and vice versa.
Last edited by gkhashem; May 16th, 2018 at 07:53 PM.
#5
I have good vacuum to the tee in the diagram. It's bad coming out of the controls since I bypassed the control and put vacuum to the heater diaphragm and blower. That worked. Blower blew hot air into car.
I am trying to determine if its in the control. Then I can go from there out to the diaphragms.
So I was thinking block off one side of tee where vacuum line comes in and see if the other side control works and vice versa.
I am trying to determine if its in the control. Then I can go from there out to the diaphragms.
So I was thinking block off one side of tee where vacuum line comes in and see if the other side control works and vice versa.
However , you might want to check for dry , cracked , or split hoses . And , using the diagram , check that each hose is properly connected .
Those are rotary valves . Have you checked to make sure the mechanism is actually turning the rotor in the valve properly ?
#7
Any idea how to remove.It looks like I can remove control module without the
face plate?
It would seem easier if I could do that? Any experienced person out there?
Looks like vent has two screws and a bracket screw same with heater but you need to remove blower **** and heat lever ****.
face plate?
It would seem easier if I could do that? Any experienced person out there?
Looks like vent has two screws and a bracket screw same with heater but you need to remove blower **** and heat lever ****.
#8
No easy way to do it but we did. Removed screws that held controls to front panels and removed them that way. Pulled the controls away from the panels in dash and found someone had rearranged many vacuum lines. Who knows why? But the reattachment restored the vents, heater and heater blower. Do not get good flow from defrost nor really any hot air.
Now I have vents and heat blower but heat is cool?
The car has a new engine themostat, we flushed the heater core. Seems like the heater hoses get hot so there is flow. So now why no heat still.
There is a heater control valve and a thermostat under the dash that is connected to heater lever. Where would you go next? I was thinking the heater control valve and the vacuum to that?
Now I have vents and heat blower but heat is cool?
The car has a new engine themostat, we flushed the heater core. Seems like the heater hoses get hot so there is flow. So now why no heat still.
There is a heater control valve and a thermostat under the dash that is connected to heater lever. Where would you go next? I was thinking the heater control valve and the vacuum to that?
#9
Make sure that the hoses aren't too hard and brittle that they crack .
Do you have a '59 Olds shop manual ?
Last edited by Charlie Jones; July 14th, 2018 at 02:33 PM.
#10
OK I think the heat issue may now be solved. All seems to be ready to work as designed, Got a new heat control valve in and that got the coolant flowing and generated heat. Keep in mind the rock auto one will work but has a 3/4" outlet on it so you need to find a replica heater valve for the correct hose size. So for now I got a replica but rigged up the rock auto one since I found this out after getting the original valve out of the car.
I had a side issue with the blower motor (see other thread) which was not really the blower motor but the ignition switch and all accessories.
The last step was to see why no defroster. I had heat, I had vents. I could blend the heat hot, warm or cold. Just no defroster or no strong air to the windshield.
The vents on the inside heater case under the dash were not closing correctly. We tested all the vacuum and diaphragms and they were ok. It was the pivot inside the box once we got it off.
There was a pivot pin like a door hinge pin that came off and was not allowing a lever to turn the vents closed. Strange set up inside that looked to be missing a bushing on the pin to keep the assembly together to allow it to work. One part would turn based on vacuum, the other part was separated from it and was not turning the vent lever. I put in a bushing on the pin to put the two pieces together in contact and it turned in unison!!!
I think this is going to work. The pin was lying in the box but no bushing??? Not sure how this worked originally but I think we got it going.
I had a side issue with the blower motor (see other thread) which was not really the blower motor but the ignition switch and all accessories.
The last step was to see why no defroster. I had heat, I had vents. I could blend the heat hot, warm or cold. Just no defroster or no strong air to the windshield.
The vents on the inside heater case under the dash were not closing correctly. We tested all the vacuum and diaphragms and they were ok. It was the pivot inside the box once we got it off.
There was a pivot pin like a door hinge pin that came off and was not allowing a lever to turn the vents closed. Strange set up inside that looked to be missing a bushing on the pin to keep the assembly together to allow it to work. One part would turn based on vacuum, the other part was separated from it and was not turning the vent lever. I put in a bushing on the pin to put the two pieces together in contact and it turned in unison!!!
I think this is going to work. The pin was lying in the box but no bushing??? Not sure how this worked originally but I think we got it going.
Last edited by gkhashem; November 9th, 2018 at 06:00 AM.
#11
Just took a test drive and all works as it should.
Also before it went back together found a spring that was used where I put the spacer. Took the spacer off the pin and put in the spring and yes it works. The spring will allow the parts to separate some not sure why but it is designed to be a two piece set up inside the box for the vent lever.
Anyone who needs some info let me know. I know more than I want to.
Also before it went back together found a spring that was used where I put the spacer. Took the spacer off the pin and put in the spring and yes it works. The spring will allow the parts to separate some not sure why but it is designed to be a two piece set up inside the box for the vent lever.
Anyone who needs some info let me know. I know more than I want to.
Last edited by gkhashem; November 10th, 2018 at 08:29 AM.
#12
Just took a test drive and all works as it should.
Also before it went back together found a spring that was used where I put the spacer. Took the spacer off the pin and put in the spring and yes it works. The spring will allow the parts to separate some not sure why but it is designed to be a two piece set up inside the box for the vent lever.
Anyone who needs some info let me know. I know more than I want to.
Also before it went back together found a spring that was used where I put the spacer. Took the spacer off the pin and put in the spring and yes it works. The spring will allow the parts to separate some not sure why but it is designed to be a two piece set up inside the box for the vent lever.
Anyone who needs some info let me know. I know more than I want to.
My car (1959 Olds 98 Sceni-Coupe) is now in storage for the winter, but the first thing I will do in the spring when I get it back is try and make the heater work... It's completely useless right now, even though the vacuum lines are all properly connected. I will need your help for sure.
#13
My car (1959 Olds 98 Sceni-Coupe) is now in storage for the winter, but the first thing I will do in the spring when I get it back is try and make the heater work... It's completely useless right now, even though the vacuum lines are all properly connected. I will need your help for sure.
If that's the case then the controls are good and you have no vacuum leaks.Also study the diagrams above and maybe get a service manual. Good luck and give me a PM if you need some help.
It can be done.
Last edited by gkhashem; November 12th, 2018 at 03:58 PM.
#14
schematic or diagram of inside the heater case?
OK I think the heat issue may now be solved. All seems to be ready to work as designed, Got a new heat control valve in and that got the coolant flowing and generated heat. Keep in mind the rock auto one will work but has a 3/4" outlet on it so you need to find a replica heater valve for the correct hose size. So for now I got a replica but rigged up the rock auto one since I found this out after getting the original valve out of the car.
I had a side issue with the blower motor (see other thread) which was not really the blower motor but the ignition switch and all accessories.
The last step was to see why no defroster. I had heat, I had vents. I could blend the heat hot, warm or cold. Just no defroster or no strong air to the windshield.
The vents on the inside heater case under the dash were not closing correctly. We tested all the vacuum and diaphragms and they were ok. It was the pivot inside the box once we got it off.
There was a pivot pin like a door hinge pin that came off and was not allowing a lever to turn the vents closed. Strange set up inside that looked to be missing a bushing on the pin to keep the assembly together to allow it to work. One part would turn based on vacuum, the other part was separated from it and was not turning the vent lever. I put in a bushing on the pin to put the two pieces together in contact and it turned in unison!!!
I think this is going to work. The pin was lying in the box but no bushing??? Not sure how this worked originally but I think we got it going.
I had a side issue with the blower motor (see other thread) which was not really the blower motor but the ignition switch and all accessories.
The last step was to see why no defroster. I had heat, I had vents. I could blend the heat hot, warm or cold. Just no defroster or no strong air to the windshield.
The vents on the inside heater case under the dash were not closing correctly. We tested all the vacuum and diaphragms and they were ok. It was the pivot inside the box once we got it off.
There was a pivot pin like a door hinge pin that came off and was not allowing a lever to turn the vents closed. Strange set up inside that looked to be missing a bushing on the pin to keep the assembly together to allow it to work. One part would turn based on vacuum, the other part was separated from it and was not turning the vent lever. I put in a bushing on the pin to put the two pieces together in contact and it turned in unison!!!
I think this is going to work. The pin was lying in the box but no bushing??? Not sure how this worked originally but I think we got it going.
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