gkhashem

New 8.5-14 bias whitewall tires, electrical issues getting less. Fluids and filters changed.

Transmission had a shutter from first to second mostly noise now with new fluid and filter shutter is gone. The transmission is smooth as silk. Pretty good for a slim jim.

All lights work now, radio works seemed to need the correct fuse. Did not have a 2.5 AGM fuse there was a 2 amp fuse that blew and only had another of those and it blew again. Got a 2.5 amp one and now seems OK. The radio sounds great for AM.

The wiper motor just needed some cleaning and some taps. Fixed the pump and now it works and pumps. Horn issues traced back to steering wheel along with directional stalk so off comes the wheel since the directional was just floppy but now no left turn detent.

Then of course the clock.

But after some long ride of 2 hrs and 75 miles one way then back. She was great no leaks and cruised well.

Except when I was slowing down I hear a binding noise from the rear. Then when creeping in parking lot forward and reverse the same. Not all the time it comes and goes. I checked the driveshaft and U joints and nothing was loose no play. Differential fluid full.

Any ideas. I am thinking maybe shocks bushings look all shot since they are original. Maybe a body mount in the rear? You only hear this and feel it some when you are coming to a stop or starting. Also creeping slowly in lot forward and reverse.

Brakes were redone on car hardware, pad and wheel cylinders look new.

Jandk

This part is interesting.. My car has exactly the same from time to time, only when creeping on a flat surface. I have inspected mine bushing as good as I could, new shocks, new bearings, and ended up suspecting the differential fluid. I am not sure which type of anti slip diff it has, but I believe to have read it is a diff type with plates, if so they can be noisy if the fluid anti spin addetive isnt good anymore.
I have changed is now, but the car is still not on the ground because of the engine being rebuilded.

Maybe its worth trying to change to diff fluid ?

gkhashem

That is interesting. Not sure about flat surface only. It happens on a flat but also when slowing down to a stop. Then starting up again. It sounds like something shifting in trunk when I slow down. Slight clunk. When rolling in parking lot more pronounced like a binding.

Yes the car has the anti spin diff too.

Don R.

That is a great looking car! Two thoughts on the noise:
* If the rear axle lube has not been changed do so using fluid compatable with limited slip.
* lubricate the U-joints.

Jandk

What I mean when I say flat surface is, its not a noise from bushing fighting to keep up when driving over a curb and likewise.

I have had a friend in the backseat once at a cruise, we where rolling real slow at idle, keeping the speed low by braking, and then it happend a few times (it wasnt a pleasant sound/feeling) then my friend back the told me he could feel the " bang " in the floor/seat and said it was like the rearaxle bounced quit a bit.

As Don mention, I also did replace the U joints while I was down there (they where fine but they where original) . I am really looking forward to see if this was it.

IF this is it, and it is solved with new fluid....then I say I THOUGHT such a antislip diff only would make noises when making the rear wheel spin at different speed.

gkhashem

No grease fittings on the original U-Joints

To change the fluid I guess I need to siphon it out? No cover on this unit unless We take it apart.

gkhashem

Not so much a bang when rolling in lot. More of a bind or grind noise and there is some bounce in the rear when it happens.

It only happens once in a while. Seems to happen after traveling at a good clip. Like on highway above 50 or so. Then when you come to a stop it sounds like a clunk. The bind or grind happens only in parking lot.

The clunk might be the brakes while the other noise may be something else. I cannot easily duplicate it.

gkhashem

Thanks Don.

The car looks as good in person, how often can you say that about an old car?

It looks 98% as good when it was new. I have never seen an old car with paint so nice. A once in a lifetime find for a 53 year old car. I wish it was a coupe but I bought it regardless it was so nice.

You can hardly hear the engine running it's so quiet.

Jandk

Okay.. "bang" might not be the right word, but you have no doubt that something is going on back there. I usually sit behind the wheel :-) and can feel something fighting against the driving direction and makes the rearend move in some way , but my friend was back there, his word was a little different than mine ;-)

Don R.

Another thing to check is the rear axle outer bearings. Jack up both sides, pull off the drums and turn axles by hand, listen / feel for roughness. Also be sure bearing retainer nuts are tight.

Don R.

I'm not sure but look on the bottom of the housing for a flush mounted drain plug. If not you will have to siphon.

Jandk

Mine had no drain plug... I dropped the differential (is it called a pumpkin??)

I regret not making a drain plug while having it dropped.

oldcutlass

Is the bang or clunk more prevalent when turning at low speed? Is there play in the ujoints?

gkhashem

Really did seem to happen on a turn. I did not try to turn. Will do it next time.

gkhashem

Still have that rear end issue. It seems to happen mostly after the car has run a while like a 30 or more minute ride.

I was at a cruise in and traveled over a grassy area and as the car was going over uneven ground it was worse. Then it went away when I left 2 hours later. No noise all the way home.

I think the anti spin is locking some or stiff. I am going to add some anti spin diff additive. Also change the fluid too.

I still have the rear U joint to do since I finally think I found the correct one.

coldwar

Add the anti-spin friction modifier additive to the diff fluid. Clutch pack assys will chatter on tight turns if not used. DO NOT overfill diff, remove a little fluid if very full. Common problem.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...SABEgJRXPD_BwE

gkhashem

I got the correct U-joint for the rear of the drive shaft. It took a Spicer 5-3022-1X (combo clips) on the rear and 5-153X (inside clips) on the front so some cars need this combo. Not all cars are outside clips front and rear.

Then I siphoned out the gear oil using a compressor the oil was very dark and added some AC Delco anti slip additive and new gear oil.

So far so good but need to give it a better test.

gkhashem

Seems all set now, no rear end issues and all works except the clock. The car runs so quiet you cannot hear it.

Starts on the first crank too.

A shot at a car show Sept 9th

Believe it this is ORIGINAL Paint, most likely none better exists on a 1964 Oldsmobile still in existence. I do not say this lightly.

oldcutlass

Nice to see it back on the road, enjoy.

BillJack

Love your car. I have a '64 Olds 98 Custom Sports Coupe in the same color, although mine is faded, dinged, and dented. I have it for sale in the Classifieds for $7500. It runs, drives, stops, and I take it to car shows, but it needs lots of work. My slim jim in NOT smooth like yours. Not sure what's wrong. Maybe an adjustment.