1959 Olds 98 Treadle Vac
#1
1959 Olds 98 Treadle Vac
I may have an issue with my power brakes. The pedal travel seemed so so but was working. I finally got the car so I could drive it. The points were shot so a tune up was done and she runs great.
But after a short maiden trip of more than 5 miles to the garage. The power brakes were not stopping the car after it went about 15 miles or so.
Checked the brake fluid again and not really low. Started up the next day and the brakes seemed to work again.
So do I have air in the system or a leak? I guess I will bleed the system and replace the fluid. Maybe a vacuum leak?
Also how does the treadle vac come out. Through the floor inside it looks like?
Any help would be appreciated. The removal looks difficult if the unit needs a rebuild.
But after a short maiden trip of more than 5 miles to the garage. The power brakes were not stopping the car after it went about 15 miles or so.
Checked the brake fluid again and not really low. Started up the next day and the brakes seemed to work again.
So do I have air in the system or a leak? I guess I will bleed the system and replace the fluid. Maybe a vacuum leak?
Also how does the treadle vac come out. Through the floor inside it looks like?
Any help would be appreciated. The removal looks difficult if the unit needs a rebuild.
#2
If it is like a '55, pull the carpet loose and roll it back toward the seat on the driver's side, and there is a plate in the floorboard that gives you access to the booster unit. Take everything loose from the booster and remove it up through the car.
Buy a rebuild kit for the brand booster, either a Bendix or a Moraine, and it will come with general instructions for the rebuild. If you have a genuine Olds Shop Manual for the '59 ,it also has step by step instructions. Be prepared for cleaning lots of gummy and dirty residue,at least that's the way most are. It 's a good idea to lubricate the leather seal with Neatsfoot oil then wipe off the excess, because it will swell that leather seal,and it locked mine up to where it would not move until we cleaned the excess Neatsfoot oil off. If you decide to have it rebuilt, I can recommend a good rebuilder.
Oh, you mentioned a leak,and if it does not get proper vacuum,it cannot work properly. Larry
Buy a rebuild kit for the brand booster, either a Bendix or a Moraine, and it will come with general instructions for the rebuild. If you have a genuine Olds Shop Manual for the '59 ,it also has step by step instructions. Be prepared for cleaning lots of gummy and dirty residue,at least that's the way most are. It 's a good idea to lubricate the leather seal with Neatsfoot oil then wipe off the excess, because it will swell that leather seal,and it locked mine up to where it would not move until we cleaned the excess Neatsfoot oil off. If you decide to have it rebuilt, I can recommend a good rebuilder.
Oh, you mentioned a leak,and if it does not get proper vacuum,it cannot work properly. Larry
Last edited by Rocketowner; April 16th, 2018 at 08:13 PM. Reason: Add
#3
I think I confirmed what you said about the removal. Now I have looked and found out there was an early 1959 version and a late version of the Bendix booster.
All the repair kits are the same so are these units interchangeable?
I need to know since I can get the early version.
All the repair kits are the same so are these units interchangeable?
I need to know since I can get the early version.
#5
One guyat Fusick said no, but they changed it midyear and all the rebuild kits are the same. So I was wondering what was different. Also they all want a core so no help if I cannot move the car for 3 weeks!!!
#8
Call Ed Strain 1-888-266 1623, tell him what you need .He's been rebuilding these for 18 years ( over 13,000 in all) . He has a 48 hour turnaround time on your unit,and can get
You one of his already built boosters in 24 Hours. Nice to deal with ,very helpful, and gives a 1 year warranty. Larry
You one of his already built boosters in 24 Hours. Nice to deal with ,very helpful, and gives a 1 year warranty. Larry
#9
X2 for Ed Strain. If Fusick says they need a 2-3 week turnaround, they are probably getting them done by someone else. Send it to Ed, and we just saved you around $200 compared to Fusick prices. And make sure your vacuum tank on the passenger side isn’t full of holes
#10
When I was rebuilding mine,I found a small part worn that the that the kit didn't contain.I called Ed Strain,and he sent me the part , shipping and all he only charged $6.00! I considered that a true favor! He is a pleasure to deal with. Larry
#13
You might try Karp's Power Brake Service in Upland, CA. They did the treadlevac on my 54 and I have been very pleased with it. They have been doing it a long time and have a great reputation. Here is the link:
http://www.karpspb.com/
http://www.karpspb.com/
#16
Usually if you have lost vacuum you end up with a rock hard peddle and little brakes. A bad wheel cylinder or leaky master will show up with the peddle going to the floor.
Have you checked your fluid for loss or your is your treadle-vac wet anywhere? If you push on the brake peddle then start the car can you feel the peddle move down a little? If not you may have a vacuum leak or the treadle is gummed up internally.... Keep us posted on your findings.... Tedd
Have you checked your fluid for loss or your is your treadle-vac wet anywhere? If you push on the brake peddle then start the car can you feel the peddle move down a little? If not you may have a vacuum leak or the treadle is gummed up internally.... Keep us posted on your findings.... Tedd
#17
RF wheel cylinder was corroded and frozen, especially after some use.
Changed all hoses and wheel cylinders and bled lines and now OK.
Car after running for awhile would not stop going forward but stop in reverse. So that explains why RF was not working.
I got a kit from inline for then hoses but the rear hose was too long so I left the one on the car on. The hose was not too old, but kind of mad that inline gave me a hose that was too long for the rear.
Changed all hoses and wheel cylinders and bled lines and now OK.
Car after running for awhile would not stop going forward but stop in reverse. So that explains why RF was not working.
I got a kit from inline for then hoses but the rear hose was too long so I left the one on the car on. The hose was not too old, but kind of mad that inline gave me a hose that was too long for the rear.
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