crewser60

I have a 72 Ols Cutlass Supreme. Does anybody know if you have to change out the long front brake line that runs behind the front axel after installing headers. I can't seem to line it up. HELP PLEASE!!

android 211

I have a '72 442 with a 455. I bought some used headers, unknown brand, in good condition and had them coated. When I installed them I saw one tube rubs against the junction block on the drivers side directly under the power brake booster. I've seen other posts about this problem and what some people do is reroute the brake line or put the junction block on top of the frame instead of along the inside rail. this requires modifying the brake line. Failing to do that the brake fluid will boil and affect braking negatively.

crewser60

New to this site. didn't know there was a quick reply. So if I put the junction box on top will the existing line work??

Fun71

I had Heddman header son both my '70 Supreme 350 and my '71 Supreme convertible 350 and didn't have to relocate any of the brake parts.

Exactly what are you having issues lining up?

joe_padavano

There are two separate issues here. First, the distribution block or combination valve on the frame (depending on whether you have drum or disk brakes) usually needs to be relocated to clear headers on an Olds A-body. If you have an automatic, it is easy to simply bend the lines and move the block to the top of the frame rail without even disconnecting the lines. I've been able to use one of the existing holes for the clutch equalizer bracket to bolt the block down. Obviously this doesn't work if you have a clutch and the bracket is already there.

Your original question pertains (I think) to the line on the back of the crossmember that runs to the front RH wheel. This line can get close to the headers and potentially boil the brake fluid. On installations where I was concerned about this, I unbolted the line and simply pushed it up to the topside of the crossmember, away from the header tubes.

Note that every header manufacturer routes tubes differently, so experience with one brand does not necessarily mean that the same will be true for a different brand.

oldcutlass

Welcome to the site. On some that I've installed I simply removed the clamps pushed the lines over and flipped the clamps around. All you need is a few inches of clearance.

crewser60

First of all I took pictures of everything on this engine before I took anything off. I had to get a new phone because mine got wet. Now when it time to put stuff back together I found that ATT lost my pictures during transfer to my new phone. Now I don't know how to install the main brake line that goes below the oil pan or the brake lines that go behind the drums I need pictures. I have had Chemotherapy so my memory really sucks. Not happy.

70cutty

The brake line that goes to the passenger side wheel contours to the crossmember and goes to the flexible (rubber or stainless steel) break line in the wheel opening. There should be a bracket attached to the frame where flexible brake line is attached with a clip. Hard line gets installed on top of that bracket to the flexible line. The flexible line gets installed to the drum and other side is being held by the clip to the bracket. I would install the distribution valve side first. I hope this makes sense.

Here is a example of where that line should be installed.

crewser60

Thanks for the picture Cutty it helped. Thanks to everyone but I still cant get the long brake line that runs below the oil pan to line up with the proportion valve. I think the right side lays over the top right part of the frame and then connect to the part in Cutty picture is that right.