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My name is Max, found the forum looking for informations on Oldsmobile cars. I am looking for a first project/restoration learning experience. I have a buddy looking to sell his 1972 cutlass. Its a sedan , but its not in bad shape for beeing a never stored in winter canadian car. Its all stock, 350 auto sedan. We will see what the future brings. I always like the cutlass 70-72ish , my first neighbor had a 70 Hardtop coupe 442 in dark green paint. Really nice car.
I'm looking on informations, every performance parts seems to be more directed to the coupe. Are parts mostly interchangeable? Is the front end the same?
Anyway! Here i am . Hoping to be owning a Cutlass real soon.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
The 70-72 Town Sedans don't have that big a following and are often referred to as 'more door' cars. Price on that should be relatively cheap and if it's a never stored in winter car it's likely got some good rust on it. What part of Canada? Body parts for some of it can only be obtained from donor cars, but front end clip, dash, rear bumper are fairly common to replace so there are parts out there.
Performance parts for the Olds 350/350 combo are the same whether it's a 2 or 4 door. What exactly is your vision for this car?
BTW, welcome to the site and good luck with your future project.
Max, grab the '72. Great cars, I had one back in the late 1980's, 350 2bbl. Put in a distributor curve kit, converted to dual exhaust and picked 4mph in the 1/4 mile and lowered et by .4 sec. Buried the speedometer needle to the "S" on the shift selector. Loved that car, my friends called it the Battlestar. Be leary if the mileage is high, it might want a new timing chain as the factory nylon coated gears tend to break up over time. Good luck.
The 70-72 Town Sedans don't have that big a following and are often referred to as 'more door' cars. Price on that should be relatively cheap and if it's a never stored in winter car it's likely got some good rust on it. What part of Canada? Body parts for some of it can only be obtained from donor cars, but front end clip, dash, rear bumper are fairly common to replace so there are parts out there.
Performance parts for the Olds 350/350 combo are the same whether it's a 2 or 4 door. What exactly is your vision for this car?
BTW, welcome to the site and good luck with your future project.
Sounds great! I would like to learn bodywork, car is local from Manitoba, rust aint super bad , but not the best ive seen either. My vision for the car would be to redo the bodywork//paint. Install a nice set of wheels. Refresh of the suspension and brakes with a couple upgrades (sportier springs and shocks). For the engine performance i'd like to do a quick refresh on the engine and trans. Mild cam/intake/carb/headers and dual exhaust. It is gonna take time, but i'm not in a hurry!
I'll see how everything turns out, i'm suppose to go see the car this week! Keep you guys posted!
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Sounds like a very reasonable goal. One thing you should take into consideration is time and $$$. These projects do have a tendency to balloon out of control. Sort of like renovating a house when you start tearing stuff apart. Sheet metal for the floors and trunk are reproduced so no worries there. If there's rust on the C pillar dog leg, you'll have to either fabricate replacements or find a donor as those parts aren't reproduced.
When you go see the car take pictures and post them? Do you know where to look for the rust spots on these old cars? And do you have a starting point in mind for the purchase price?
Sounds like a very reasonable goal. One thing you should take into consideration is time and $$$. These projects do have a tendency to balloon out of control. Sort of like renovating a house when you start tearing stuff apart. Sheet metal for the floors and trunk are reproduced so no worries there. If there's rust on the C pillar dog leg, you'll have to either fabricate replacements or find a donor as those parts aren't reproduced.
When you go see the car take pictures and post them? Do you know where to look for the rust spots on these old cars? And do you have a starting point in mind for the purchase price?
Merry Christmas!
I do not know where to look for rust points ,but the car has is safetied for manitoba, so it is at least somewhat decent. I was told the only rust that turned into a hole is on the front fender.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Typical rust areas:
Lower fender behind wheel
front cowl to dash
floor pans
rocker panel
lower C pillar and dog leg
rear wheel opening
rear lower quarter panel
back glass lower edges and corners
lower trunk lid
Trunk floor and drop offs
IF the car has a vinyl roof - look for blistering under the vinyl, it's guaranteed to be rust.
If you can get the car on a lift have a look at the frame and overall bottom of the car, including the axles.
Do you know if the car is a 4 door Cutlass Supreme or Cutlass Town Sedan? Supreme will have a VIN that starts out as 3J39, whereas the Town Sedan (aka post sedan) will have a VIN that starts out 3G69. Of course the more obvious way to determine CS vs TS is simply look at the window structure. If the side glass is all framed, it's a TS, If it's a hard top (no frame around the glass) it's a CS. They will have different roof lines as well as grills. The post sedan can accept front doors from another 4 door post car (70-72) as well as Vista Cruiser (70-72). If not AC equipped, both will have exactly the same dash. Deck lids are the same as the 2 door CS coupe. Standard engine for the CS is 350 4bbl, TS is the 350 2bbl. Both cars have an anemic 2.56:1 rear axle designed for fuel economy as standard from the factory. Good news is the rear axle is a GM 10 bolt corporate which can accept a host of different upgrades to carriers and gear ratios.
IF the car has a vinyl roof - look for blistering under the vinyl, it's guaranteed to be rust.
If you can get the car on a lift have a look at the frame and overall bottom of the car, including the axles.
Do you know if the car is a 4 door Cutlass Supreme or Cutlass Town Sedan? Supreme will have a VIN that starts out as 3J39, whereas the Town Sedan (aka post sedan) will have a VIN that starts out 3G69. Of course the more obvious way to determine CS vs TS is simply look at the window structure. If the side glass is all framed, it's a TS, If it's a hard top (no frame around the glass) it's a CS. They will have different roof lines as well as grills. The post sedan can accept front doors from another 4 door post car (70-72) as well as Vista Cruiser (70-72). If not AC equipped, both will have exactly the same dash. Deck lids are the same as the 2 door CS coupe. Standard engine for the CS is 350 4bbl, TS is the 350 2bbl. Both cars have an anemic 2.56:1 rear axle designed for fuel economy as standard from the factory. Good news is the rear axle is a GM 10 bolt corporate which can accept a host of different upgrades to carriers and gear ratios.
Cutlass Supreme HT sedan
Cutlass Town Sedan
thank you for the load of info! I last saw the car a month or 2 ago, we changed the starter on it. It is a gold ish color and pretty positive it does not have the vinyl top. I will keep scrolling around the forums in the search for information. There is also a guy near me selling 1970 cutlass 14inch wheels. These should fit on the sedan as well right?
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
The 1970-72 Cutlass A bodies all came with 14" wheels from the factory. Only difference would be whether the wheels are 6" or 7" wide. Does the car have drum or disc brakes? If it has drum brakes, either will work. If it has disc, only the 7" will clear the calipers.
IF the car has a vinyl roof - look for blistering under the vinyl, it's guaranteed to be rust.
If you can get the car on a lift have a look at the frame and overall bottom of the car, including the axles.
Do you know if the car is a 4 door Cutlass Supreme or Cutlass Town Sedan? Supreme will have a VIN that starts out as 3J39, whereas the Town Sedan (aka post sedan) will have a VIN that starts out 3G69. Of course the more obvious way to determine CS vs TS is simply look at the window structure. If the side glass is all framed, it's a TS, If it's a hard top (no frame around the glass) it's a CS. They will have different roof lines as well as grills. The post sedan can accept front doors from another 4 door post car (70-72) as well as Vista Cruiser (70-72). If not AC equipped, both will have exactly the same dash. Deck lids are the same as the 2 door CS coupe. Standard engine for the CS is 350 4bbl, TS is the 350 2bbl. Both cars have an anemic 2.56:1 rear axle designed for fuel economy as standard from the factory. Good news is the rear axle is a GM 10 bolt corporate which can accept a host of different upgrades to carriers and gear ratios.
Cutlass Supreme HT sedan
Cutlass Town Sedan
I can't believe it, that town sedan is exactly like the car I owned, same color and hubcaps. Awsome car!
No news on the cutlass yet. Buddy is on vacation until the 13th of january. I bought a set of wheels . Original wheels from a Cutlass Supreme 1971 SSII type. 4 complete wheels with center caps/trim rings/and the outer ring in decent condition +1 spare wheel that has a center cap only. I will give a shot at restoring those and putting them away for the future cutlass. If i end up not buying this sedan i will still be buying a 70-72 Cutlass/442 sometime in the next year.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
You know the only difference between SSII and SSIII is color, right? SSII are always argent and SSIII are body color coded. It has nothing to do with whether the wheels have bolt on center caps or clip on.
You know the only difference between SSII and SSIII is color, right? SSII are always argent and SSIII are body color coded. It has nothing to do with whether the wheels have bolt on center caps or clip on.
The one i have are argent. They have bolted on center cap. I tried to find the stamp on the back . Theyre is only 2 number i can find. 893 and M5 3 . As per this site . http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/superstock.htm
No news on the cutlass yet. Buddy is on vacation until the 13th of january. I bought a set of wheels . Original wheels from a Cutlass Supreme 1971 SSII type. 4 complete wheels with center caps/trim rings/and the outer ring in decent condition +1 spare wheel that has a center cap only. I will give a shot at restoring those and putting them away for the future cutlass. If i end up not buying this sedan i will still be buying a 70-72 Cutlass/442 sometime in the next year.
Welcome MadMax,
If that deal goes south, you may find someone here selling their 70-72 Cutlass.
Keep us updated .
Cheers
Eric
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by MadMax666
The one i have are argent. They have bolted on center cap. I tried to find the stamp on the back . Theyre is only 2 number i can find. 893 and M5 3 . As per this site . http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/superstock.htm
Here is a quick picture i took .
Sorry, but those aren't argent. They are color code 13 in 1971 which is Sterling Silver.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
If you do end up buying the Cutlass, I'd ditch those anemic 195/70/14 tires and get something closer to 225/70/14. That's much closer to the size the car should have. Don't know where in Canada you are but the 225/70/14 can be bought at Costco for a really decent price, plus only $15/wheel assembly for mounting, balancing, nitrogen and installation.
oh yes that is for sure, the tires on the rims are shot anyway, they are cracked and all missmatched. So what color should i paint those, regular silver paint or is there a paint can that is not 18.50USD +shipping that is a close match. I guess local canadian tire /napa will be where ill look first.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Actually, US can't send paint through the mail. I did find a color that was really darn close at Canadian Tire. I'll have to look in the garage and see if I still have it. I think it was so close to the correct argent that no one would even look twice. I have a sandblaster so I was able to get them cleaned up really well. They turned out really well IMO. In this picture they appear to be somewhat lighter than they actually are.
Actually, US can't send paint through the mail. I did find a color that was really darn close at Canadian Tire. I'll have to look in the garage and see if I still have it. I think it was so close to the correct argent that no one would even look twice. I have a sandblaster so I was able to get them cleaned up really well. They turned out really well IMO. In this picture they appear to be somewhat lighter than they actually are.
Wow they look great ! I too have a sandblaster available at work. If you can let me know the color code or brand/number of the paint it would be amazing! Thanks.
Ended up buying the paint, got one wheel sandblasted this morning. I will do the front in the dupli color paint and the barrel/inner rim with black paint. I'm also polishing the trim rings and beauty rings. The center caps will be polished as well and new decals will be ordered.
Those rims will make the sedan look much better than the factory hub caps. Your determined and pressing ahead on your plans to get the car . I hope it all works out in your favour .
Their is nothing like having an Oldsmobile project , they cruised and still cruise like no others in the 70's.
Looking forward to seeing the pics of your new 72 Olds Sedan arrival in the weeks to come.
Those rims will make the sedan look much better than the factory hub caps. Your determined and pressing ahead on your plans to get the car . I hope it all works out in your favour .
Their is nothing like having an Oldsmobile project , they cruised and still cruise like no others in the 70's.
Looking forward to seeing the pics of your new 72 Olds Sedan arrival in the weeks to come.
Eric
Should look good for sure with a set of 225/7/14 Cooper Cobra radial GT .As far as the sedan, if the deal doesn't work, there is a nice Cutlass supreme with a freshly rebuilt engine for sale around here. I have a thing for the sedan as i have 3 young kiddos and it would be easier for the family sunday ride with 4 doors !
So i had to create another account, can't access my old email, and can't remember my password. Finally got the car today, paid 1500$ canadian (about 1150USD). Its not in bad shape, runs super smooth, no mechanicals issue, but the body needs love a bit. Still is good enough to pass Manitoba Safety requirements.
i still have to finish the wheels i bought earlier. they are sandblasted but not painted.
Good score on the town sedan, I also have the 72 town sedan and a fellow Canadian, SW Ont here. My car pic is in my profile if you click on my name. Like Allan said it will get very costly when you start to dive into it lol. I have done a few things since getting the car about 1 year ago and have lots of plans to get done over the winter. The members and mods here are very helpful and don't treat anybody like there second class that I can tell, really good information of the forums. Enjoy your ride Allan did say the rear gear came with 2.56 but when I ran the num on mine it came up with having 2.73, I would like an upgrade to 3.08 gears, something you may consider, we do have the low compression pistons so be careful not to over cam it, a fellow on here Mark can do custom cams for us low compression guys. when I did the headers and duels it did give the car a nice upgrade. My 350 had the 4 barrel on it all ready. its a fun driver but does need a little more.. Allan in his pic I see 350 under the side marker, was that original or did somebody add that?
Last edited by skyhigh; July 17th, 2019 at 01:43 PM.
Max, grab the '72. Great cars, I had one back in the late 1980's, 350 2bbl. Put in a distributor curve kit, converted to dual exhaust and picked 4mph in the 1/4 mile and lowered et by .4 sec. Buried the speedometer needle to the "S" on the shift selector. Loved that car, my friends called it the Battlestar. Be leary if the mileage is high, it might want a new timing chain as the factory nylon coated gears tend to break up over time. Good luck.
I did the same me things to my 72, 350 2 Bll and it made a very noticeable improvement in performance!
Also I see you have the Cutlass Supreme grill. Is it a Supreme?
I may not be remembering correctly but it seems to me that the 2.56 axle was not standard in Canada. A lower (2.73 ?? ) was standard, I think.
Welcome to another Canadian prairie boy.
Last edited by Cutlass Fan; July 16th, 2019 at 08:44 PM.
I did the same me things to my 72, 350 2 Bll and it made a very noticeable improvement in performance!
Also I see you have the Cutlass Supreme grill. Is it a Supreme?
I may not be remembering correctly but it seems to me that the 2.56 axle was not standard in Canada. A lower (2.73 ?? ) was standard, I think.
Welcome to another Canadian prairie boy.
I do not think its a supreme, it has the framed doors , but it has been repainted sometime in its life. so somebody might have changed the grill.
I used a google found VIN decoder , 3G69H2MXXXXXX , cutlass town sedan with a 2bbl 350
Last edited by MadMax1972; July 17th, 2019 at 05:21 AM.
I did the same me things to my 72, 350 2 Bll and it made a very noticeable improvement in performance!
Also I see you have the Cutlass Supreme grill. Is it a Supreme?
I may not be remembering correctly but it seems to me that the 2.56 axle was not standard in Canada. A lower (2.73 ?? ) was standard, I think.
Welcome to another Canadian prairie boy.
I got the grills from 442crazy..nick on this site, but still would like the 3.08 or 3.23 gears for a better launch.
Last edited by skyhigh; July 17th, 2019 at 01:44 PM.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Originally Posted by skyhigh
..my bad the rear end is 2.78 lol..but still would like the 3.08 or 3.23 gears for a better launch.
Close but no seegar. The standard axle for the 1972 Cutlass (3G69) was 2.73:1 regardless what power team you picked.
Although the 2.73 is a fine axle for general driving (city and Highway) giving reasonable fuel economy, I also opted to go with a better tall gear and installed the G80 carrier and 3.42:1 gear set. In retrospect I think I would have been just fine with 3.08 or 3.23 Another thing to keep in mind is that when you change your rear gears, you also need to change the drive/driven gears for the transmission so the odometer and speedo will register correctly. Both are relatively easy to get to, but the drive gear means you should be prepared for some transmission fluid spilled out when the tail shaft is unbolted. Fortunately the fluid loss is like changing the differential so you can easily control how fast it comes out. (oil catch basin is really helpful with this)
Yeah I originally said it was 2.73 and then changed the post lol...I have it wrote down in the trunk on a box when my friend looked the number up, I was just to lazy to go outside and move the cover off the car from all the rain we been having lol...thanks for the chart Allan
Last edited by skyhigh; July 17th, 2019 at 01:48 PM.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
You're welcome.
If you're interested in more 1972 information have a look at this link. It's from The Old Car Manuals Project. Simply click on the image you want and it will expand. Enjoy!
Took the wife and kids for a small ride . She wants dual exhaust. Ill get the wheels finished probably over the weekend and install them. Also thinking or ordering a shift kit.
Ill do a whole maintenance oil /filter sometime soon too
December 24th, 2018, 01:20 PM
Allan did say the rear gear came with 2.56 but when I ran the num on mine it came up with having 2.73, I would like an upgrade to 3.08 gears, something you may consider, we do have the low compression pistons so be careful not to over cam it, a fellow on here Mark can do custom cams for us low compression guys. when I did the headers and duels it did give the car a nice upgrade. My 350 had the 4 barrel on it all ready. its a fun driver but does need a little more.. Allan in his pic I see 350 under the side marker, was that original or did somebody add that?
