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Motor mounts?

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Old August 19th, 2018, 08:43 AM
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Motor mounts?

hey guys I have run into a problem replacing my torn motor mounts. I have a 71 Cutlass that had a 350 originally but now has the 455. The guy before me must have had quite a time installing the mounts in this application because both mounts were torn (rubber) and now I have had nothing but headaches trying to get a replacement installed. Have ordered and tried three different mounts. None of them line up. The closest was about 1/4 inch off. Am I missing something? Thanks for your time, in advance for your help!
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Old August 19th, 2018, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ergot71
Am I missing something?
Yeah, I suspect that whoever swapped the motor used the "455" motor mounts with the "350" frame mounts, which is a recipe for failed rubber mounts and headaches getting them in. Read this thread, paying particular attention to the differences in the frame mounts. If you really have the original 350 frame mounts, use Anchor 2261 motor mounts. If the frame mounts have been changed, use Anchor 2328 motor mounts. In all cases, you should leave the bolts between the mount and the block loose until you get the cross bolts between the mount and the frame pad inserted. Then tighten everything.
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Old August 20th, 2018, 09:13 PM
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Hey Joe,
thanks for the information !
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Old February 17th, 2020, 09:25 PM
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Are the two options for an A body ok for hotrodded motors? I'm putting in a 488 that just dyno'd 618 torques. Will these hold?
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Old February 18th, 2020, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by tirespin
Are the two options for an A body ok for hotrodded motors? I'm putting in a 488 that just dyno'd 618 torques. Will these hold?
Frankly, neither of the currently-available Chinesium mounts will likely last for long at that level - assuming you drive it to use that power. The 2328 mounts and matching frame mounts are marginally stronger (which is why Olds went to that design), but at a minimum you should run a torque strap on the driver's side.
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