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Great thread. Really cool story. I'm not an "original" kind of guy (I'd be swapping engine, trans, brakes, electrics, etc.). Do what you want to the car just save the original parts that are changed out. It can always be returned to original down the road.
I did decide to move forward with the "re-core" of the radiator. Actually winds up being a little more than $600, more like slightly over $700 all in, but should be great and the original horse shoe and bowls will be in tact. Some pics to follow on that. Also, began the process of tearing down the break system, ordered all new lines, hoses and rebuild parts and I don't know 100% that i will be able to use or rebuild the wheel cylinders, they're hit pretty bad and siezed up. I didn't think it was too bad though and looks fairly clean considering age etc. see more pics.
Really Great car! Gramps sounds like a great guy. Front end reminds me of the 67-68 Cutlass/442s
Thought I pass along some advice on getting a dormant car going. I apologize for any redundancies.
Only use USA or North American parts on this car, no chineasium offshore junk. Save everything you remove, label and store in a dry place for later rebuilds or just to say you have the OEM parts. It makes the care more valuable IMO.
Only use ethanol free gas and high zinc oil. Stay away from synthetics unless some component is completely rebuilt(engine rear, end etc).
Consider a dual master cylinder upgrade. IMO this would be one of the only modern updates acceptable for this car. It is a safety thing. The new modern master cylinder would be much less expensive and easier/cheaper to service down the road. Other acceptable upgrades are, (IMO), Petronix breaker-less kit in the dist and maybe upgrade the charging system to a modern single wire 12-volt system). All of this is reversible if you ever decide to go back to OEM some day.
Clean all major and minor(that you get at) wire connections. Grounds and positives. The main battery cables and any other ground you see. Check battery cable resistance. All light bulb connections may need inspection too. Pull the fuses in the main bus and clean both sides of the fuses and the fuse holders.
Anything that has been dormant that long needs a thorough going through. All systems. All fluids. All rubber consumable parts...brake & fuel lines, hoses, belts, weather seals, vacuum lines et al...
Get it good and hot and flush the hell out of the cooling system after the new rad gets installed. Your gonna have to flush the system many times to get it all out of the block and heater core. Separately flush the block and heater core with low PSI garden hose pressure after the chemical flush has had a chance to work its way into the both. Then repeat another complete flush after a good long 100-mile road trip. Use the premixed coolant. Never use tap water(except to flush, then completely drain the H2O). Coolant should be monitored for PH and changed when it gets acidic or every 5 years or so. Id also add water pump lubricant to the coolant. That seal is likely real dry.
Change rear diff fluid, repack front wheel bearings, install new grease seals. Grease the front end until you see new grease coming out, careful to not explode the tie rod and ball joint seal boots. Chances are about 100% that all the grease dust seal boots on the front end need replacing as well as all chassis bushings. Drive shaft ujoints should be inspected by pulling the drive shaft and feeling the movement of the joints. IMO replace these for safety with solid Spicers.
Do a complete flush on the trans as well. Do it two or three times to get all the old fluid and varnish out.
Spectra may have your gas tank and heater core if needed.
I think the radiator decision is very wise.. Not inexpensive, but a long term solution. Years from now you'll think to yourself, Man I'm glad I had that done when I did! Welcome to the NTOC, nice cars, Great folks. You will be surprised at the reception this unrestored car gets.
[QUOTE=droldsmorland;1067784|Consider a dual master cylinder upgrade. [/QUOTE]
Poor advice . This car has a Bendix "Tredle-Vac" power brake unit .
To try to install a dual M/C system would require major modifications . Which would destroy the originality of the car .
There is nothing wrong with a single master system IF , it is properly serviced and maintained . I have driven and worked on many single master cars over the years , and the only failures I have ever seen were due to a lack of proper maintenance and inspection of components .
I think the radiator decision is very wise.. Not inexpensive, but a long term solution. Years from now you'll think to yourself, Man I'm glad I had that done when I did! Welcome to the NTOC, nice cars, Great folks. You will be surprised at the reception this unrestored car gets.
I am betting this car and your wagon will be super stars of the Zone Show in May. It will be a pretty short trip for Mike since it is going to be at Tanglewood Resort.
I am betting this car and your wagon will be super stars of the Zone Show in May. It will be a pretty short trip for Mike since it is going to be at Tanglewood Resort.
Thanks guys, I dont know how many of these meets i will be able to attend but i do look forward to meeting y'all. I also think it would be a huge stretch to think the Lombardo would be able to make the Zone Show in May, but we'll see.
I am betting this car and your wagon will be super stars of the Zone Show in May. It will be a pretty short trip for Mike since it is going to be at Tanglewood Resort.
Glenn, I sincerely appreciate your optimism, but I'd be very skeptical of the moniker "super star" for an Olds wagon that did not have a Fiesta badge, or wood sides on it. My turtle's pace of progress and lack of disposable funding may delay its display another year anyway. The year, color combo,condition and history of the car featured in this thread is what I feel would make it very appealing to both members and general spectators. Much like your convertible, there will likely not be another on the field.
Great thread. Really cool story. I'm not an "original" kind of guy (I'd be swapping engine, trans, brakes, electrics, etc.). Do what you want to the car just save the original parts that are changed out. It can always be returned to original down the road.
It is only original once. Installing aftermarket components with needed modifications will forever change this, even if the parts are kept.
It would seem most cars from the 60's and 70's, and many from the 50's, are much more drivable on 'modern' roads then earlier cars, and do not require the extensive 'street rod' type modifications made on earlier vehicles.
It is unfortunate that 'street rod' type modifications - changing to modern engines, transmissions, brakes, electrical wiring, wheel sizes, etc - are needlessly being done to muscle cars from the 60's and 70's that were purposely built for performance, unlike other vehicles.
With many cars from the 60's and 70's being modified with 'up to date' modifications, it may be time to expand the definition of Street Rod and include these vehicles - which would include 'old vehicles with substantial upgrades to more modern running gear, suspensions, brakes, and other equipment/body modifications.
This would leave historic and classic vehicle designations to mostly stock vehicles.
Thanks guys, I dont know how many of these meets i will be able to attend but i do look forward to meeting y'all. I also think it would be a huge stretch to think the Lombardo would be able to make the Zone Show in May, but we'll see.
Been following Lombardo since you acquired it. Not sure if an original question was answered, but Steele Rubber should be considered for replacement of all weatherstripping, felts, channels and seals. You've got a gem my friend.
There seems to be a lot of definitions and contradictions as to how the classifications go regarding old rides. While I am quit certain the Lombardo does not qualify as Vintage or Historic, would it be considered Classic or Antique? And when the time comes to insure, register and plate the car, what is the process?
TX Classic car plates mean you have no restrictions with regards to usage or mileage like any other car. Antique plates in TX mean its a collector item and driven solely for exhibitions, shows, parades and or regular maintenance. Antique plates are also 5yr plates in TX and cheaper than Classic plates. I would have the car appraised my more than one appraiser for insurance purposes.
What is the "Lombardo" that you refer to? I did a search on here but didn't come up with anything.
My Great Grandfather is the original person to buy this car new from the dealership in May 1959 and that was his last name. Using Lombardo in many conversations between my son and I, it just stuck, thus the car has affectionately became know as and referred to as "the Lombardo".
One other option on the plates is to year of manufacture (YOM) plates. While 1959 Texas plates are not that plentiful, there are guys that deal in license plates. I have 1954 plates on my car. I bought them from a guy in Grapevine on ebay. They have to be in decent condition. I think I paid about $125 for mine. You have to have the front and rear plates. Take them to the tax office when you go to register your car. They will inspect them and then check them to be sure nobody else has that number registered. I believe mine were initially issued for 3 year and then renewed for 1 year. It is kind of silly but you have to have your car inspected every year. The inspection is only about $7.50 since there is no emission test required. The place I go doesn't even check the lights or wipers if I let them take pictures of my car.
I am curious. Do you know where your great grandfather purchased the car/
One other option on the plates is to year of manufacture (YOM) plates. While 1959 Texas plates are not that plentiful, there are guys that deal in license plates. I have 1954 plates on my car. I bought them from a guy in Grapevine on ebay. They have to be in decent condition. I think I paid about $125 for mine. You have to have the front and rear plates. Take them to the tax office when you go to register your car. They will inspect them and then check them to be sure nobody else has that number registered. I believe mine were initially issued for 3 year and then renewed for 1 year. It is kind of silly but you have to have your car inspected every year. The inspection is only about $7.50 since there is no emission test required. The place I go doesn't even check the lights or wipers if I let them take pictures of my car.
I am curious. Do you know where your great grandfather purchased the car/
As always, thanks for the info. Yes sir. It was purchased at Butts Oldsmobile when they were still in Arlington, TX according to the Owners Manual and other paper work I was able to see. I even found 2 original sets of keys in the leather binding.
Interesting how the rules on vintage license plates vary from state to state. In North Carolina, you can put a vintage plate on an antique car as long as you have the valid, current plate with you and can show it to a police officer if you get pulled. I've never heard anything about having to actually register the vintage plate. That said, North Carolina also offers an antique auto plate for cars 35 years old or older. It costs a few dollars extra but it pegs the tax value of the vehicle at $500, regardless of whether it's a beat up '83 Chevette or a concours restored Duisenberg. The only catch is it limits the number of miles you can drive it each year to, I think, 2,000.
The reason I asked is that I am going to use my car at the 95th birthday celebration for Jerry Freeman who was a long time Olds dealer in Dallas and still has a number of dealerships. It is going to be at the Bent Tree Country Club and my car will be parked at the entrance when he arrives. If his health is willing, I will drive him home after the party. My car will be parked in front of the nicest home (mansion) it will ever be parked in front of. More to come later.
I really like the picture of your car parked between the American Flags. It just seems appropriate.
The reason I asked is that I am going to use my car at the 95th birthday celebration for Jerry Freeman who was a long time Olds dealer in Dallas and still has a number of dealerships. It is going to be at the Bent Tree Country Club and my car will be parked at the entrance when he arrives. If his health is willing, I will drive him home after the party. My car will be parked in front of the nicest home (mansion) it will ever be parked in front of. More to come later.
I really like the picture of your car parked between the American Flags. It just seems appropriate.
Thanks Glenn! That was delivery day. That event should be cool and sounds like a fun time, i'm sure Mr. Freeman will appreciate something like that.
.... Also, began the process of tearing down the break system, ordered all new lines, hoses and rebuild parts and I don't know 100% that i will be able to use or rebuild the wheel cylinders, they're hit pretty bad and siezed up. I didn't think it was too bad though and looks fairly clean considering age etc. see more pics.
The bottom return spring in this rear brake photo shows it is incorrect for the setup - if you have self adjusting rear brakes. If your car does not have self adjusting brakes, I apologize for the following ramble
This spring should have a straight leader coming off the first (or last) coil. When installed, the correct return spring will be clear of the small ratchet in the photo.
This ratchet is acted upon by a small plate connected to the trailing brake shoes by a pivot arrangement.
When the brakes are applied aggressively in reverse gear, the plate engages the ratchet from behind, turning the adjuster increasing the distance between the bottom of the shoes, hence self adjusting the rear brakes.
The spring in your photo will stop this functioning correctly.
I recently re-did the front and rear brakes on my Delta, cleaning, painting (with heatproof black) and CAD plating all the component parts. I replaced the shoes, cylinders and bought new correct spring kits, as the old springs were badly corroded from leaking brake fluid and years of neglect.
Your brakes look 100% better than mine did when I first took the drum off. Your shoes look to have plenty of meat on them and cleaning them with Methylated Spirits will not only clean them but also draw out any oil and remove any oil/grease. Of course if your unsure about the condition of the shoes replace them.
While the drums are off, you might take them to your local brake shop and have them skimmed.
Can the mechanisms be retrofitted to the original brakes? Asking for a friend.....
Good question. I guess it would depend on the car. I think self adjusting brakes came out in 1963. You kept your foot on the brake pedal while you were backing up and that adjusted the brakes. I still have my old brake adjusting tool that you used to crank out the adjusting wheel until the brakes dragged and then backed it off. It has been a long time since I have done that. If he 54 ever needs it, I have the tool.
I have the tool also....had to use it right away when i bought my 61, not sure how the PO drove it as bad as the brakes pulled to the right. As a side note replacing the sway bar bushings also contributed to neutral braking.
I love that first picture of the Lombardo, covered in decades of dirt, sitting on the trailer. Just looks... EVIL. My brain immediately went to Christine (yes, I know that's a Plymouth Belvedere badged as a Fury). Then the later pic, in the dark, sitting in the garage at night, with the interior lights on, holy cow. Great job cleaning her up.
Also, I applaud the decision to re-core the original radiator. I did the same with my '64 Starfire this past summer. Aluminum would have looked terrible. You'll probably wind up bringing home some show trophies for keeping everything original.
Can the mechanisms be retrofitted to the original brakes? Asking for a friend.....
MAYBE , on a '61 . Parts book says 61 & 62 backing plates and drums are the same .
The parts would have to come from a '62 . 1963 and up are different . And of course you would have to change shoes and the mechanism .
This is a THEORY only , You will have to actually try it .
Let us know if you do decide to experiment .
Actually , all this is really un-necessary , unless the car is a daily driver .
Brake adjustment is fairly simple , and doesn't have to be done real often (every 10,000 mi under average conditions ) .
You'll find the people in the NTOC to be very friendly and helpful.
As far as plates, I would go with Antique, I know of no one who has ever received a ticket for driving their car at any time with them.
The brakes look like they have been maintained and look really good from the outside. I would disassemble, clean, and inspect WC's. You may get away with just wheel cylinder kits and a set of shoes, the springs look serviceable. Blow out the lines, flush with fresh fluid, bleed the system, and hopefully your good to go.
If you are interested in acquiring YOM tags, here are a couple of local resources that might be able to help out with a matched set.. If inquiring remember that unrestored tags tend to come with a more friendly price... Ask about all matched set '59 Texas tags available. I bought my sequential unissued 1970 tags from Dean, the 1940 tags on my coupe were unrestored, but they looked great after some work.
My son and I have completed a major hurdle and just in time as he leaves for Basic Training next week. The brake system has been completely removed, disassembled and all wheel cylinders rebuilt, all lines replaced, junction blocks cleaned and master cylinder rebuilt. Everything is back on the car and fully operations without leaks or drips…and looks pretty good to boot. Here are a couple of before and after pics and while working on replacement, we took the liberty to clean, remove rust and paint as necessary….coming along slowly but surely.
We used POR 15. That stuff is pretty good and just slathered it on with wherever the brush and our arms could reach. Head the warnings to not get this on your skin! It does indeed take about 2 weeks before it wears off as I can attest, bumped my head on the frame 2 times to be exact and two times I was awarded black POR 15 on my half balding head and was able to exhibit that award at work for all my coworkers to share.
January 11th, 2018, 09:48 AM
