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This new guy (Me), has a 1970 Cutlass Super that cranks but does not kick over.
My Dad bought it Oklahoma about 4 to 5 years ago when it was still running. Decided to pull the 1975 Rocket 350 (what he was told it had?) to paint it gold. His "BUDDY" said he could help and knew how to paint it real nice and loaned him the cherry picker to do it.
They got the engine out, "BUDDY" had to go on business trip, he never came back.
I bought car from my Dad, put the engine in a 1 1/2 years ago and just now towed it from Oklahoma to Arizona (where I live). Still don't run and I think I might have to rewire the whole car due to being out in a carport in the country for 4-5 years.
I think the field rats, mice, and squirrels got one over on me.
Still decent looking. Had to pudh it onto the uhaul trailor with anothe truck. Changing all HEI components except for the cap itself. Had to pull and clean out carb. Where the Cutlass sat for 4 to 5 years.
First verify your spark plug wires are in the proper firing order. The distributor rotates CCW. Make sure that the rotor is pointing to the #1 distributor cap post at #1 TDC on the compression stroke.
Make sure there is power to the Batt+ terminal on the distributor cap both in the ignition key start and run positions.
Make sure you have fuel at the carb, operate the throttle linkage with the engine of and looking down into the carb. There should be 2 solid streams spraying.
You have some weird wiring with windshield wiper motor.
Good looking car, the whizzes here should be able to help you get it up and running. BTW, it's not a Supreme, which is identifiable by the "notch" body style. You have a Cutlass S, where the S doesn't stand for anything, just indicates a trim level.
Unless there are wires obviously bared by rodent activity, I would start with simple diagnostic tests...got spark, gas, timing set, points cleaned, etc? It does look there are some rogue wires run and older splices to give some attention to as well.
I've been told those rims are in demand with the Camaro crowd, might bring a few more dollars than expected, if you were thinking about finding Olds rims for the car.
Bought an electric fuel pump to bypass the mechanical fuel pump and used the wiper relay wire to run the pump only when the key is turned. I will rewire the wipers when I get the car working again. Using it for trouble shooting.
Pulled the spark plugs and they are rusted and brown. They are all dry with no buildup of any kind...except rust. Changing those out tonight. Also I have two plug connection to the HEI Cap but can only find one plug for it. I found two wires that go no where and could possibly be the ones that go to the other Plug on the cap. Can I get a plug for it at AutoZone? That might be the reason I have no spark.
Last edited by 70OldsCutlazz; March 29th, 2017 at 09:27 AM.
Reason: Adding a picture.
Remember that the standard condition numbers are biased toward fancy restored cars:
#1 is better than new.
#2 is for all intents and purposes new, but maybe not perfect.
#3 is a really nice, near-perfect driver.
#4 is most regular, very nice, not perfect drivers.
#5 is a car needing restoration, but it could be a running, driving car.
I pulled my HEI distributor cap off and I noticed that the rotor is not pointing to the number one plug. When the engine stops turning does it always stop on the number one plug direction?
This is what my VIN TAG Looks Like? I am having a hard time understanding it?
BODY BY FISHER
ST70 33677LAN455731 BDY
TR 947 75 75 PNT
05C B85 B90 B80
GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION
CERTIFIES TO THE DEALER THAT THIS
VEHICLECONFORMS TO ALL U.S. FEDERAL
MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARDS
APPLICABLE AT TIME OF MANUFACTURE
First, take a look at your fuse box under the dash above the driver's left foot. Are there any obvious added connectors? Your car didn't come from the factory with HEI, it was added later and can't use the same power wire as the original points system. I'm guessing one of those wires goes to the empty "switched" connector on the fuse block. If so, you should be golden. Use it for the HEI. Just make sure it's a "switched" circuit (off when the key is off).
As for the #1 post, you have to make sure the #1 cylinder is at top dead center on compression stroke. That's when the rotor should point to the #1 post on the cap.
Also, do yourself a favor and get the appropriate Chassis Service Manual for your car. I got mine on eBay for like $20.
You have the beginnings of an awesome project right there. Take your time, do the research, ask specific questions here on CO, and you'll have a great ride. Trust me, I didn't know jack when i started, lol.
Data Tag Decoder Results
Year 1970
Make Oldsmobile
Model Cutlass Club Coupe V-8 Engine
Assembly Date Third week of May
Assembly Plant Lansing, MI
Fisher Body Sequence 455731
Lower Color Matador Red
Upper Color/Conv Top Matador Red
Interior Option Ivory Vinyl Bench
Accessory Codes
Belt reveal molding Door window moldings Roof drip molding
H I'm guessing one of those wires goes to the empty "switched" connector on the fuse block. If so, you should be golden. Use it for the HEI. Just make sure it's a "switched" circuit (off when the key is off).
The IGN terminal in the middle of the fuse block works well for this.
Way to go, man! Good troubleshooting. When you were turning your HEI clockwise, you were increasing your timing. Check it with a timing light; a dial-back light if possible. Every engine is different but IIRC 16-18 degrees initial is about where you want to be. 36 degrees all in maybe? Lol, it's been a long winter in the midwest and I've forgotten a lot of the numbers. Just keep increasing until you get a little pinging under load, then back it off a little.
Keep up the good work.
March 25th, 2017, 09:32 AM
