Recommendation for Disc Brakes (manufacturers)
#1
Recommendation for Disc Brakes (manufacturers)
This is my first post...
I have a 1969 Olds cutlass convertible. My dad is the original owner and he has given it to me. I restored it when I was 19 using the tools of my grandpa who was a olds mechanic (Cortese Olds in Richmond, CA.).
Now I am 41 and preparing the car to use with my boys 5 and 8.
I want to upgrade front brakes from drum to disc. Local muscle mechanic suggested I research first to get Cutlass users opinions.
So, any recommendations on what to purchase or even what to stay away from? The car is stock, 350 4bbl, dual exhaust.
I have looked at Summit, Wilwood, Right Stuff, etc.
Thanks in advance for any input!
I have a 1969 Olds cutlass convertible. My dad is the original owner and he has given it to me. I restored it when I was 19 using the tools of my grandpa who was a olds mechanic (Cortese Olds in Richmond, CA.).
Now I am 41 and preparing the car to use with my boys 5 and 8.
I want to upgrade front brakes from drum to disc. Local muscle mechanic suggested I research first to get Cutlass users opinions.
So, any recommendations on what to purchase or even what to stay away from? The car is stock, 350 4bbl, dual exhaust.
I have looked at Summit, Wilwood, Right Stuff, etc.
Thanks in advance for any input!
#2
The first best choice would be see if you can find original GM disc set up from any 67 to 72 GM A body car. I think 67 and 68 are dual piston calipers and 69 and up are single piston. But the calipers can be bought at any parts store, single piston are pretty cheap now days. The GM spindles would be best over reproduction IMO. As far as your original spindles you can have (dont quote me) I think 5/8 inch milled off the threaded boss at the top of the spindle then their the same as the disc brake spindles. Then you would need disc caliper brackets, calipers, dust shields, new brake hoses and maybe brake lines too but not necessiary I think. Or I hear Right Stuff has nice kits. Anything you find GM would likely need to be rebuilt but that would be my preference.
Chevelle, Malibu,Monte Carlo, Skylark, GTO LeMans, Tempest, Cutlass, 442, 67-72
Chevelle, Malibu,Monte Carlo, Skylark, GTO LeMans, Tempest, Cutlass, 442, 67-72
#3
The are actually four piston calipers, two on each side of the rotor.
In any case, this thread will help.
In any case, this thread will help.
#4
Drum to Disc - SSBC testing now
Not sure if will this will help. My 72 Cutlass had four drums. Prior owner took 72(?) Nova discs and added to front - stopped nicely. Just replaced 350 with 455 so wanted some more stopping power.
I (last month) added SSBC rear discs (largest I could find for original 14" wheels) and replaced the drum/disc master cylinder with a SSBC master and SSBC proportioning valve (available through Summit).
Test drive yesterday was odd. At first hard to lock up brakes. Then after some more hard braking - different wheels locked up - sometimes the front - once or twice the back rear.
Then took on interstate and did a hard 70-0 on the off ramp and it stopped perfectly without issue of one wheel locking up (i.e. if they are going to lock up - I want them all to lock at the same time).
I believe a 60-0 in about 130 feet is very good and will measure sometime soon to see if I can achieve this with the set up I have. Also, if you really, really want to stop - add on some Hawk racing brake pads - will make noise, dust and eat rotors but will stop very very quickly.
I (last month) added SSBC rear discs (largest I could find for original 14" wheels) and replaced the drum/disc master cylinder with a SSBC master and SSBC proportioning valve (available through Summit).
Test drive yesterday was odd. At first hard to lock up brakes. Then after some more hard braking - different wheels locked up - sometimes the front - once or twice the back rear.
Then took on interstate and did a hard 70-0 on the off ramp and it stopped perfectly without issue of one wheel locking up (i.e. if they are going to lock up - I want them all to lock at the same time).
I believe a 60-0 in about 130 feet is very good and will measure sometime soon to see if I can achieve this with the set up I have. Also, if you really, really want to stop - add on some Hawk racing brake pads - will make noise, dust and eat rotors but will stop very very quickly.
#5
With a 69 I'd find a junk car with disc's and remove everything. I'm not sure on the newer cars but there are probably several years through the late 60's to early 70's that would be good for these parts.
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