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confused how where HP ratings chagned from 350 to 350?

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Old April 9th, 2015, 11:47 AM
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confused how where HP ratings chagned from 350 to 350?

Hello,

I purchased a 1972 cutlass "S" from in front of the auto parts store. I read a lot about the car as I am fairly obsessed with it. I am not a professional mechanic. I am a dedicated rookie with lots of back yard experience. Currently i have pulled the original 72 350 engine out of the car by removing most of the front of the car to make room to pull it out. so long story shorter. I got two options on re manufactured log blocks, for what I would consider reasonable prices. My car was originally identified by engine code as the 160 HP 2 barrel single exhaust small block. I have a new intake 3711 and really nice 4brl Quadrajet that came of a rallye 350. Here is my question.

The two choices I have for longblock 350's I can acquire is either a identical 160HP Engine Code vin H or a Engine Code vinK which according to the chart i found is K which says = 350-4bbl V8 180 hp.

I am planning on driving this car a bunch. Almost daily around town. I am not a race car driver or an engine builder beyond bolting on heads and intakes. I do care though and want the car run good, I want to make sure it does live up to its rep as A body muscle car and be worthy of the Oldsmobile brand name. The HP rating increase I understand is not a big deal, how ever, I am curious to how the higher HP was obtained in the 350's using the K code, is the only difference the 4brl carb ? Both engines cost the same but if the K engine code engine is a little beefier or has some different style dish or higher compression ratio or something, i would like to go with it I believe.

It will literally be no difference in price or quality both come from the same place. Mainly seeking info on where the higher HP number comes from between the H code 350 single exhaust and the K engine code. below is the reference chart I mentioned.

5th digit - Engine code VIN
H = 350-2bbl V8 160hp *where i started.
J = 350-2bbl V8 175 hp (dual exh.)
K = 350-4bbl V8 180 hp * obtainable
M = 350-4bbl V8 200 hp (dual exh.)
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Old April 9th, 2015, 12:04 PM
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What's wrong with the original engine?
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Old April 9th, 2015, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by '69442ragtop
What's wrong with the original engine?
+1.

Most of us here would not recommend buying an industrially remanufactured engine.
Compression will be low, as will component quality.

In 1972, all Oldsmobiles had the same compression ratio: 8.5:1, and there were no other differences between the two engines you are discussing, other than the carburetor, and possible dual exhaust.

I would question why you would want to use an industrially rebuilt engine, at probably 7.5:1 compression, when you could rebuild your original engine to 9:1 or 10:1, with an appropriate cam, and get better power and mileage.


Originally Posted by Rusted72
I want to make sure it does live up to its rep as A body muscle car
I'm not sure what rep you're talking about, but the '72 Cutlass with a 350 was a granny car, roughly equivalent to the Acura of today.

Welcome to ClassicOlds.

- Eric
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Old April 9th, 2015, 12:37 PM
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The longblocks would be identical. The difference is the intake and carb.

But, if your engine is good... just put the edelbrock and 4bbl on it.
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Old April 9th, 2015, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by NHolds
The longblocks would be identical. The difference is the intake and carb.
^^^THIS!

In prior years, Olds used different cams and compression in the 2bbl and 4bbl motors, but for 1972 they were the same. The only difference is the intake and carb. The fact that the listing you are looking at shows them differently tells me that they do not know what they are talking about.
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Old April 10th, 2015, 05:52 AM
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rebuild it is

Thank you for the advise, Ill save the moolah and take the original apart for rebuilding. In regards to what was wrong with original engine.. well white smoke and i mean a lot. like fogged the neighbors out. pulled the dipstick out and could light it on fire. Lots of gas int he oil. leaking oil out head etc. Just beat up all the way around. Figured it might just be more cost /time effective to buy a reman then rebuild mine. All things considered I would rather just rebuild it per advice, I would hate to spend money on lower compression and inferior parts. At Least if I do it myself I will know for sure how it was put together and parts are not fashioned from Korean pot metal.

Thanks again, Its nice to be able to get advice from experienced and knowledgeable individuals.
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Old April 10th, 2015, 05:54 AM
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Sounds like all you need is a head gasket.

- Eric
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Old April 10th, 2015, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
Sounds like all you need is a head gasket.

- Eric

X2, and maybe a fuel pump, they can leak gas into oil. I'll bet the bottom end is fine.
Steve
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Old April 10th, 2015, 08:41 AM
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ordered new felpro metal intake gasket, two new head gaskets and two valve cover gaskets. Since I have it out ill make sure to check it out real careful. friend has engine test stand and can do a compression check on it for me, once its all sealed back up. Thanks again. Im sure ill have more questions as I learn or run into things. Glad there is a place I can come for insight.
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Old April 10th, 2015, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Rusted72
ordered new felpro metal intake gasket, two new head gaskets and two valve cover gaskets. Since I have it out ill make sure to check it out real careful. friend has engine test stand and can do a compression check on it for me, once its all sealed back up. Thanks again. Im sure ill have more questions as I learn or run into things. Glad there is a place I can come for insight.
We're ready to help, but if you plan to do any real work on this car, get a factory Chassis Service Manual. You'll be better off with an original paper copy, not a reprint or CD, as the reprints all lose some resolution in the scanning and reproduction process. Originals are readily available on ebay.
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Old April 10th, 2015, 09:29 AM
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I hate to say something that will add complication, but note that the FelPro 0.042" head gaskets will reduce compression by about half a point as compared to the original factory 0.016" steel shim gaskets, so if that is important to you, you may wish to have the heads milled by the amount of the difference (about 0.030") to maintain your compression, even if you're not doing any other modifications.

- Eric
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Old April 10th, 2015, 10:19 AM
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I'm a bit late to this and others have stated the difference in the engines was the intake and carb. The difference in rated power was due to 2bbl/4bbl and single/dual exhaust.

These are the 1972 350 ratings published by Oldsmobile:

Carb........Exhaust........HP @ RPM........FT-LBS @ RPM

2-bbl ........single........160 @ 4000........275 @ 2400
4-bbl........ single........180 @ 4000........275 @ 2800

2-bbl ........dual........175 @ 4000........295 @ 2600
4-bbl ........dual........200 @ 4400........300 @ 3200
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Old April 10th, 2015, 10:51 AM
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hopefully next week, ill be able to start taking it apart. I am super excited to get started. its been parked for a really long time. There is certainly no shortage of things to do on it. all the rubber is trashed so far, rusted driver pan, turn signal cam is broke which is fine if on only make turns in one direction lol. I am sure there will be all kinds of problems with it as i go. I like working on it though. Got sick of working on everyone Honda civics. Saw this boat in front of the part store and the obsession was born from there. Once i get it moving around under its own power with out a smoke screen i will be a very happy camper. Ill post some pics once i get some taken. thank you all for the contributions. Chassis manual should arrive weds.
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Old April 10th, 2015, 10:54 AM
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I hope you got it cheap.

- Eric
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Old April 10th, 2015, 11:19 AM
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Won't be cheap by the time he's done. Best of luck, Rusted!
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Old April 10th, 2015, 04:40 PM
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when using the fel pro head gaskets , I mill .025 off the heads and .025 off the block, that will compensate for the head gasket.

Gene
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