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Hate you had a bad engine right out the barn door but you now have the opportunity to see is it is, or is it ain't, a 455. Also to see if the heads are big valve or small valve, and if it possibly has a forged crank (believe it or not those were common in 1968 2bbl 455s).
While it's out, spring for one of the repro 65-70 LH dual exhaust manifolds and get prepped to convert to 4bbl. Those two mods alone will get you in 340-350 hp range. Meaning a big car that will get up and dance.
Hate you had a bad engine right out the barn door but you now have the opportunity to see is it is, or is it ain't, a 455. Also to see if the heads are big valve or small valve, and if it possibly has a forged crank (believe it or not those were common in 1968 2bbl 455s).
While it's out, spring for one of the repro 65-70 LH dual exhaust manifolds and get prepped to convert to 4bbl. Those two mods alone will get you in 340-350 hp range. Meaning a big car that will get up and dance.
What are the measurements for the valves (small and big)? I was thinking about getting them milled and valve job but if they aren’t worth it then maybe not!
Yeah I thought the exhaust was weird lol. I’ll look into those. I just couldn’t believe that I removed that engine exhaust and all that and I didn’t break a single bolt!
What are the measurements for the valves (small and big)? I was thinking about getting them milled and valve job but if they aren’t worth it then maybe not!
Yeah I thought the exhaust was weird lol. I’ll look into those. I just couldn’t believe that I removed that engine exhaust and all that and I didn’t break a single bolt!
The small intake valve is 2.000". The large is 2.070". Two barrel motors came with small valves. The pitting is likely from rust in the cylinder from sitting so long. That cylinder likely had a valve open when it was parked, allowing humid air into the cylinder.
The small intake valve is 2.000". The large is 2.070". Two barrel motors came with small valves. The pitting is likely from rust in the cylinder from sitting so long. That cylinder likely had a valve open when it was parked, allowing humid air into the cylinder.
Ah didn’t think about that! Thank you will measure them when I get out of work today
Neat car, those years are my favorite big cars, style wise. You never see 4 doors anywhere. If there is a big N on the crank, it is iron. There is more distinctive parting lines on the casting vs a forged which have smoother edges as well. As said, a 76 and later 800 cfm Qjet carb is actually a better carb but may need idle circuit tweaking especially if you upgrade the cam. Good luck on the rebuild, double check what clearances they are planning on. Welcome to CO.
Young'un, you're in MI, the home turf of Oldsmobile, and it's up to us to help you learn about them and preserve the knowledge while you keep one on the road.😎
It was all in the family! My dad used to have a 72’ Cutlass Supreme S when he was my age. He swapped in a .060 over 455 and while I never got to ride in it, from what he was telling me there was nothing faster in the high school parking lot!
Quick update since it’s been a bit since I’ve posted. I’ve decided to bore it .060 over and I’m going with a really strong bottom end for it. My Mondello oil restrictors arrived yesterday along with my forged H beam rods. Waiting for the machine shop to finish up with the block work along with my trans rebuild. Got the seats and carpet out and man I almost puked when I took out the front bench! I’ve never seen so much spunk in one concentrated area. I was worried the floors would be totally shot but it looks like someone at some point painted the floor or replaced them since it was rock solid underneath all the carpet. After that I messed with the electrical since I can’t really do much till parts arrive. Everything except the wipers, blower off switch and radio work great. Clearly haven’t tested ignition, starter or the alternator but all the lights work. I think I’m still going to replace all the fuses and clean the block. I think I might tackle the brakes next unless parts or the engine block arrive. Dreaded taking off the massive drums but they aren’t going to magically fix themselves. That or clean and paint the driveshaft. Will update upon further progress of course.
Been a long and time heavy project, but with a few guys and a lot of fast food and cold snacks, the Delta is back on the road!
Still has is original 455 block and crank but went with a few upgrades
Forged D.S.S. pistons and forged Procomp rods
Comp cams P/N: 42-222-4
C Heads with hardened valves and seats
Crower dual spring valve springs
Factory 4 barrel manifold (for now)
QFT Slayer 750 Vacuum Secondary
1" Mr. Gasket spread to square bore adapter
For convenience sake a powermaster mini torque starter
Had the transmission rebuilt by Joes Transmission in Boyne City, MI
The guy is amazingly fast, dropped it off at 10 and it was done by 11
all for $350!
I've been really struggling to find parts for the braking system however. I've replaced everything inside the drum, but I cant find drums for it anywhere!
Hoping someone on here has some or knows a part number for some because I want this car to be ready for spring. I have my coronet I have to fix and that requires a total drivetrain overhaul
Been a long and time heavy project, but with a few guys and a lot of fast food and cold snacks, the Delta is back on the road!
Still has is original 455 block and crank but went with a few upgrades
Forged D.S.S. pistons and forged Procomp rods
Comp cams P/N: 42-222-4
C Heads with hardened valves and seats
Crower dual spring valve springs
Factory 4 barrel manifold (for now)
QFT Slayer 750 Vacuum Secondary
1" Mr. Gasket spread to square bore adapter
For convenience sake a powermaster mini torque starter
Had the transmission rebuilt by Joes Transmission in Boyne City, MI
The guy is amazingly fast, dropped it off at 10 and it was done by 11
all for $350!
I've been really struggling to find parts for the braking system however. I've replaced everything inside the drum, but I cant find drums for it anywhere!
Hoping someone on here has some or knows a part number for some because I want this car to be ready for spring. I have my coronet I have to fix and that requires a total drivetrain overhaul
If it was ready in an hour I can't see how it wasn't a swap for one already done sitting on the shelf. If your Olds transmission was numbers matching to the car sadly it won't be any longer.
Shop I deal with could have done it quicker. Common trans like a 400, sitting on the shelf already done. swap speedo gears, out the door
What's weird is that the deltas don't use a speedo gear in the transmission, at least the 68. Its got a speedometer cable that's driven through the drivers side spindle. To be completely honest I wouldn't have a problem with just getting a new one but I'm 99% sure that its the one I dropped off. Either way its shifting great and I'm having no problems as of the moment.
If it was ready in an hour I can't see how it wasn't a swap for one already done sitting on the shelf. If your Olds transmission was numbers matching to the car sadly it won't be any longer.
Good luck!!!
I doubt it was, the engine was rebuilt at some point and the torque converter had a sticker with the date "09/1994"
What's weird is that the deltas don't use a speedo gear in the transmission, at least the 68. Its got a speedometer cable that's driven through the drivers side spindle.
Not weird at all. It's an Oldsmobile thing, on 1963-70 B&C cars...
When you're messing with the left front brake, take special pains to index the speedometer drive cable back into the drive nipple inside the grease cap when you tap it back into place, and to make sure the castle nut's special retainer clip is in place. You'll also see a spidery looking brass thing inside the cap. It's for radio static suppression.
November 4th, 2022, 02:26 PM
