don71

Enjoy seeing your progress and updates this year. You've accomplished a lot and its actually a pretty big list. That is a lot of stuff to have done.

Among the many things, I find the early photo of the bumper with no holes intriguing. Never seen that either.

71 OLDS

Thanks guys. Pretty excited and praying for no snow or rain on Saturday for the 4 hour drive home. Still lots of little things to be finished up and the clock is ticking. Love that no hole bumper pic for obvious reasons. Only guess is that was an really early pic before 71's went into production because I've never seen another one like that.

-Joe

442

Very nice! Maybe I'll see you around town, I'm in VB also.

71 OLDS

Thanks and very cool. Looks like there's at least 3 of us here in VB then from this site.

-Joe

442

Maybe we can all meet up one day in the near future. I would love to see your car!

71 OLDS

Sounds like a plan. Magna86 is the other guy on here from VB. You can see he and I going back and forth on a few posts on this thread. Rarely see any Olds in town so it would be great for us to get together.

-Joe

71 OLDS

With pick up only 3 days away of course some issues have come up. Frank got in about 50 miles of test driving yesterday in MD and most went well but there were two different leaks. The power steering pump and from the top of the new trans somewhere. Reservoir was cracked so ordered a new pump. Will be there tomorrow. Trans was fun. Had to either drop the trans or cut an an access panel in the top of the new trans tunnel. Went with the latter thinking it would make life easier for future issues. Trans leak is now fixed and cleaned up the access panel so it looks nice. Got almost another 50 miles in today with no leaks from the trans.

Lots of progress on the tow hooks. Ordered 2 of these and they will be removable:
2RdhNLl.jpg

Here's what Franks designed:
bWCJExJ.jpg

AJYmgRH.jpg

Will have one on each side. Will keep disconnected and in the glove box to be connected/used - only when pulling onto a flat bed. Again reason for this is so the front spoiler will NOT have to be removed every time the car needs to be put on a flat bed.

71 OLDS

Update: So the drive home from Beltsville, MD to Virginia Beach was successful Saturday before last. Not without some issues but made it all the way to my garage without having to be towed. Really happy with the big projects - new 6 speed is incredible, cornering & handling with AFX spindles, new steering box, and chassis brace is night and day difference. Love the new shoulder harness belts too. The issues I had were fuel/carb related. We switched from the Holley 770 street avenger back to my Holley 830 so several things were changed with the throttle linkage and springs. The issue was "granny driving" from a dead stop to slowly moving forward. What I found out later was the throttle spring was hitting on a bracket and "sticking" plus the motor seems to not like/not run well below about 1800 RPM. The first 50 miles or so from Frank's shop with the holiday traffic was brutal. Literally bumper to bumper for most of it. It took me an hour to go 10 miles at one point. Trying to feather the clutch with a sticking throttle spring for that 60 minute time period moving a few feet at a time was not fun. Eventually a gave up and pulled off at an Appleby's to charge my phone and rest my left calf. After about an hour I was back on the road and on the highway the 6 speed was amazing. One REALLY unusual issue for me was the engine running too cold. One of the many upgrades was the oil cooler to prevent the oil from getting too hot (230 degress +) with the filled block which made the fuel pump get hot and would cause vapor lock. This was the opposite problem because the oil temp wouldn't even get to 160 degrees and the carb was "leaned out" which will be great for summer driving but in the cold weather the motor is not liking the cold temps and lean carb especially at the lower RPMs (below 1800). Of course with the 6 speed I could easily drive around 1800 RPM but to get the oil temps up I purposely drove in one gear lower to stay in the 2500 to 3000 RPM range. This finally got the oil temp up to around 175-180 and you could feel the car drive better.

So once I got home the temps were better and over the next few days I got out for some test runs in 50 degree weather. Since I got the required 500 miles now on the new trans, I was able to get on it. Did a few 5k shifts and burnout for starters. I had fixed the throttle spring issue by bending the bracket a little and making sure the throttle spring was not snagging on the bracket. I also put some "softer" springs on to help with the granny driving from stop light to stop light. Really noticed a nice improvement. I tried out the 2 step for the first time. Very cool to push the clutch in put the gas pedal to the floor and have the RPMs sit right at 3500 for my launch. First time gave a ton of tire spin but the 2nd time had a pretty good launch with tires warmed up. Zero front end lift though which is probably because of the new 600 springs (upgraded from 500) and the additional weight on the front end from the new front spoiler and chassis brace. Will need to address this later. Lots of things to get dialed in. Then I tried the cruise control line lock. Very cool - press the stock cruise control button on the dash to "on" did a huge burn out and clicked to off to roll out of the burn out.

Then the bad part. Did another launch from a stop light using the 2 step - shifted 1-2, then 2-3 at around 5500. All felt great. Went to next stop light - pulled out slowly and turned the corner and the car shut off. Had to pull over to the curb and the car would not start. Tried everything but had to call AAA to tow me back to my garage. Only positive was we got to try the new tow hook. Here's a pic of the "temp" tow hook for the ride home:

4Z28hWL.jpg


Well...learned a lesson about the angle of the tow hook. Since the wench on AAA flatbeds is in the center, it pulls the car forward at a 45 degree angle. The tow hook is installed perpendicular to the frame but wench pulls it onto the flat bed at a 45 degree angle. So the last foot or so onto the flat bed I see my fiberglass bumper on the passenger side (only tow hook I had installed for the drive home) pull forward about 4". Nothing I can do about it at this point. I talk to the AAA driver on the way to my house and he says all AAA flat beds have wenches in the middle so the tow hooks really need to be angled "in" about 45 degrees. OK will have to make that change at some point.

The other issue not mentioned above is I had noticed the nipple on top of the fuel regulator was "spitting" a little while I was going on these test drives. I talked to Frank about it and he confirmed I should replace the diaphragm on top of the regulator to be safe. Did that hoping that might be the fuel issue but the car is now acting like it lost prime on the fuel pump. Won't start. Pouring gas in the carb and all the usual fixes don't work. Frank had put a check valve just in front of the fuel tank to prevent this but I think the combo of the car being lifted going onto the flatbed, not being started for a week (traveled for Christmas) and the cold weather and that fuel pump needs to be "reprimed" with all the crazy methods that have worked previously (jacking up the rear, blowing air into the fuel line etc).

Bottom line is I'm over all the fuel issues. My problems are the manual fuel pump losing prime, cold start ups, idle all over the map at start up it's one RPM, warmed up it changes, first fan comes on it changes again, 2nd fan same, had solenoid added for AC but have to press button, press gas pedal, then solenoid kicks in to raise RPMs. Bottom line I'm ready to move on from all these issues and hopefully decrease the gas smell on me and in my garage by upgrading to the Go EFI 8 from FiTech:

crJ7xIV.jpg

Will probably be February at the earliest or maybe even March before I can make the swap but ready to move forward and hoping many of my reoccurring issues will be resolved. I know this one rated at 1200 hp is overkill for now but wanted to have room for growth for the next 500ci + motor (with new Olds Rocket Racing block) and would like to keep the option open for nitrous too. That's probably a year or two away but hoping I can get this motor dialed in an every RPM and get the most out of it. Then use the same set up for the new motor.

71 OLDS

Here's a pic of the "442" shifter handle with the new magnum 6 speed underneath:

8xh19x6.jpg

...and some of the shoulder belts. Will be in the custom enclosed box in the rear armrest area eventually but you can see the location/setup and functionality here:

oFCziY1.jpg
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h6LCTrB.jpg

71 OLDS

Finally a new update - ordered the Go EFI 8 today. Still deciding on which fuel system to go with. The good news is my builder Frank has now done 3 of these. All non-Olds but glad he's got the experience now installing and getting them dialed in. Here's pics of some the 2 most recent ones he did:

LgPG9yd.jpg
FpLrwtG.jpg

Mine will be the first for him with 2 fans and the AC. Will be tagging on a few minor projects while he's doing this upgrade but hoping this process will only take a few weeks once he has my car. We'll see how it goes.

71 OLDS

Went with Aeromotive Phantom Stealth 340 fuel system and wiring kit and Aeromotive 13305 regulator

Hoping it resolves part or all of these issues:

1. difficulty with cold starts or starts when the car has not been started for several days
2. vapor lock
3. non steady/consistent idle
4. idle speed change caused by fan 1, fan 2, and AC
5. running poorly below 2000 RPM
6. losing prime on manual fuel pump when car sits without being started for too long or is towed
7. bad gas smell in garage and on me after driving
8. lazy throttle response
9. fuel/air not dialed in at all RPMs/loss in power

Will update which of the above gets improved on. Hoping for all or at least most of them.

-Joe

71 OLDS

got started on the Go EFI 8 install today:

oqlldQY.jpg
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71 OLDS

Wow! So happy. The custom aircleaner Frank made to fit over the Holley carb (and use my stock breather) fits perfectly over the Go EFI 8!! Zero mods required. Go figure.

ZurBA0Y.jpg

71 OLDS

Aeromotive Phantom Stealth 340 pump installed and tank is ready to go back in:

M9hAw4r.jpg

71 OLDS

Tank is back in and everything is buttoned up and got her fired up for the first time with the Go EFI 8 system. Only a few tweaks made so far. Ready for a test drive but front end is apart now to put my old 500 springs back in.

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71 OLDS

Several new updates: First I had noticed the receiver/dryer tube was loose and rattling. Turns out the dryer on the condenser was broken. The flare that gets tightened up in the dryer broke off:
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Because this is made to the condenser I was worried we would need to order a new condenser. To make matters worse I have that "custom" condenser for the 134 conversion that is almost $300.
Thankfully Frank came up with a nice work-around. The dryer will be clamped to the vertical support so it won't vibrate off again:
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71 OLDS

The next update is back to the tow hook discussed in previous posts. As a reminder this is required to get the car pulled up on a flatbed w/o having to remove the new custom glass front spoiler. Originally per the previous posts we were going with 2 hooks coming off each frame rail and sticking out of the glass front bumper via one of the bumper bolt holes. But Frank only got the passenger side installed last time and I had a chance to try it out - unfortunately - twice - first when I had the fuel issue and the car stalled and would not start and second when I towed it back to Frank's for all these new updates. Both times as the car was being pulled onto the flat bed the glass front bumper was pulled forward as the wench pulled the car from the center. The bottom line is if the tow hooks are at an angle it causes that front bumper to push forward. So....the new plan was to put one hook dead center in the middle. The problem is the front license plate is there. Frank came up with a brilliant new design plan - "V" off the frame rails to have one tow hook in the center and purchase a "flip down" license plate unit for the front just like we use in the rear for gas fill ups. So when the car is towed you flip the plate down, screw in the hook and it's all ready to go. Here's a pic of the v off the frame rails:
xywBqUN.jpg

There other HUGE benefit of this design is for safety. Since my entire front end is glass and I street drive this car a lot, I was very worried about a front end collision. Now I have a steel brace off the frame rails behind all that glass which may not be a solid as a huge steel bumper but at least it provides something solid up in the front should a front end collision happen.

71 OLDS

Tow hook is done. Really happy with how it came out and the new fold down front plate:
veisvtd.jpg
with tow hook:
fcEqUiL.jpg
w/o tow hook:
pRoWVe5.jpg

of course all the holes and fiberglass will be cleaned up and made perfect when I get all the paint and body work done.

71 OLDS

Getting close to being ready for pick up. Got about 60 miles on a test drive yesterday - still trying to dial in the EFI system. It colds starts OK right now but Frank says after doing 5 of these in the last few months the cold start is the most temperamental. Apparently because cold starts are before the system goes into closed loop it doesn't "learn" like it does the rest of the times once the motor is running. So the cold start is purely relying on the tune. Frank is trying to get that dialed in. The throttle response is excellent and driving with the fans coming on and off and with and without the AC is a huge difference. We are still having the "running too cold" issue from several months ago when I drove the car home from Frank's with the old carb. Trying to adjust the fans and timing to heat the motor up a little more. Drove at different RPMs for five mile clips to try to help the computer fill in its fuel tables. Getting there slowly but surely but will take some time to get all this dialed in.

71 OLDS

A few more updates on the EFI - heard a spark knock in 6th gear going up a hill so cut total timing back 2*. Driving at lower RPMs is night and day difference. I was having issues in 6th gear on the hwy where the car didn't run well in the low 2000s and really bad at around 1800 - now it's like glass all the way down to 1800 - can even go as low as 50 mph in 6th (which is about 1500 RPM w/my 305/45/18 tires). Also cruising in a parking lot in first on the old setup was not fun. Car would buck back and forth if it wasn't above 2000. So I would have to keep the RPMs up above 2000 or feather the clutch. Now it's nice a smooth as it should be even at 1700 - 1800.

71 OLDS

Drove the car home from Frank's yesterday. This is now a totally different car. The GO EFI 8 system accomplished everything I hoped for and more. The only issue I had during the 4 hour drive home was with the wipers. It rained about 1/2 the trip home and the wipers got stuck in the on position twice. I had to pull the fuse, push the wipers back down under the back of the hood manually, then put the fuse back in. Besides that - total perfection. Looking at my list:


1. difficulty with cold starts or starts when the car has not been started for several days - UPDATE - Starts up instantly everytime
2. vapor lock - UPDATE - so far no issues - drove the car hard for about 90 min in near 80 degree temps here in Virginia Beach and the oil temp got up to about 210 then the oil cooler must have kicked in because it dropped back to about 190. Was doing hard core 5500 shifts over and over and over again. The car ran just as strong after 90 min of this as it did when it was just warmed up.
3. non steady/consistent idle - UPDATE - idle remains constant with one fan on, 2 fans on, and or the AC on.
4. idle speed change caused by fan 1, fan 2, and AC UPDATE - Just answered above
5. running poorly below 2000 RPM - UPDATE - this improvement was off the charts. Runs amazing in all gears down to about 1500. It is sooooo smooth and crisp now in every gear.
6. losing prime on manual fuel pump when car sits without being started for too long or is towed - UPDATE - no more manual pump - the aeromotive elec pump is in the tank and I can't ever hear it running.
7. bad gas smell in garage and on me after driving - UPDATE - well not 100% on this one - wifey said I still smell like gas and the garage still smells like gas but...she said it's much less than it used to be. I guess I can live with that. This one was more about her than me to be honest. I love the smell of gas!!
8. lazy throttle response - UPDATE - off the charts instant throttle response!!
9. fuel/air not dialed in at all RPMs/loss in power - UPDATE - got it dialed in at all RPMs. I'm sure its probably NOT but man the butt dyno feels like it picked up 50 hp!! The difference is so dramatic.

So there you go. I'm completely blown away with the difference - granny driving is so enjoyable crispy and smooth now even at low RPMs. WOT is amazing and feels like it gained power. To not have to worry about start up, or idle, or vapor lock, or any of those issues again makes it worth every penny!!

Here are some videos I took - my apologies for the quality - shaky, blurry, I put the cell phone down twice to open and close the hood, etc etc.. Anyway gives a good overview of the entire car including roll bar, new front spoiler, shoulder belts, the new fold down front license plate for the tow hook, daytime running lights (note about 1/2 way in I push the light button off but the front parking lights only stay on), the trunk button that allows the new trunk setup to slowly open the trunk, the new EFI hand held for making adjustments, a start up - although the car had been driven a few hours earlier so not a cold start up but it would start exactly the same:


I duct taped my cellphone to the front windshield and knocked out a few 5500 shifts. This video just does it no justice. The sound and feel in the car is amazing but unfortunately my cell phone cam can't pick that up. You can hear the guy say something to me at the light. I did a 3500 RPM launch with the 2 step but the cold tires just spun. You can hear them on the video:

tru-blue 442

Nice!

71 OLDS

Thanks - really hoping to put in lots of hard street miles over the spring and summer and hopefully get some dyno and track time too. We'll see how it goes. Will keep updating results here.

-Joe

1967Supreeeme

71 OLDS

Thanks and totally agree - the GPS speedo is great and you never have to worry about changing trans, tires, rear end gears etc. Plus I love the fact that I could have the Olds Rocket customized on there. Want to swap over all the gauges at some point so they all match and are the same color at night but trying NOT to spend any $$$ for a while. Good luck with that huh?

71 OLDS

Been doing lots of tweaking and testing and doing as much driving as possible. Rain, cold weather, and wind have made it challenging. One bit of bad news is the blower motor died on me. Figures - things were going so well. Hopefully I won't need heat, defrost, or AC for a few weeks. Want to keep the car on the road and enjoy it for at least a few weeks before I worry about getting a new blower motor installed.

As mentioned earlier I've been trying make some adjustments for all the tire spin. With all this new crispy throttle response the tire spin is out of control. My 305 45 18 drag radials easily break loose in the first 3 gears and even in 4th one time so far. Off the line in first is ridiculous of course. So I made a few adjustments:

1. lowered the PSI in my drag radials from 30 to 22
2. lowered the settings on my single adjustable QA1s from level 4 to level 1 (the softest setting)
3. lowered my 2 step on the MSD box from 3500 RPM to 3200 RPM for launching

The drive with adjustments 1 and 2 had some interesting results:

With the drag radials that low the ride is definitely more bouncy and at times I can feel kind of a wobble in the steering wheel but it's very slight. Good on the hwy too and after going over a few dips in the road it's not bottoming out or anything but it does bounce the car a few times more than normal on those dips - can live with all of this but it definitely is a more pleasurable ride with the tires at 30 psi. The question is - will it lessen the tire spin at the lower psi?

I was really surprised with the driving with the shocks on level 1. I had driven like this before with my previous front end set up and steering box (used to be b-body spindles, AGR steering box, and no chassis brace) and the car was dangerous in corners if I had any speed at all. With the new AFX spindles, chassis brace, and Lee 800 steering box not only is it safe to take corners, but it actually corners pretty well even at speed. I did get on it hard in 2nd while I was switch lanes to the left and the front end lifted pretty high and I had to come off it. But I'm thinking all those upgrades to help the car corner in autocross better may also help it be safer to drive when I have it set for front end lift/straight line performance. That's a pleasant surprise I was not expecting. I'm going to test different settings on this for hard cornering. Wondering if I can go with a level 2 and still get decent front end lift for launch but still be able to corner hard?? We'll see.

For the 3rd adjustment, the 3200 launch decreases the tire spin drastically. Unfortunately I've only been able to get out when the temp was in the low 40s and there's going to be more spin with the drag radials when it's that cold but I could tell it was much better than launching at that 3500 RPM even in the cold. Will keep testing that out.

Last I started playing with the Go EFI 8. Frank put my warm idle at 1000 RPM. That's the idle the system keeps the motor at once it hits 170 degrees. This RPM keeps everything running great with no fear of the car stalling in any condition, hot, cold, right after I get on it, with AC on, with fan 1 or fan 2 on etc etc. but....I can't hear the lope of my cam. I like the way the car idles at 850 RPM. Sounds like a muscle car should. Every RPM you go above 850 smooths that idle out and that amazing lope sound. So...I started trying to find the sweet spot for as low as I could go without the car stalling. Previously I would have to open the hood, remove the breather springs, take the breather off, take the aircleaner off, then adjust the idle screw on my carb, put everything back on, close my hood. Then of course with the carb what dialed it in perfectly in my driveway completely changed if the car was hot, cold, right after I get on it, with AC on, with fan 1 or fan 2 on etc etc. but now....all I do is press 4 buttons on the hand held device and drop it down in 10 RPM increments to whatever I want. The hood remains closed. That is just so amazing to me. Anyway - dropped it from 1000 to 950 - no issues. Starting to sound better. Then dropped it to 900. Went on a cruise and it's now go that lope I like. Went through McD's drive through - took about 10 min with the idle at 900 - was loving it. Got my food at the end pulled forward to put my drinks in the drink holder and it shut off. Started right back up but maybe 900 is a little too low. Bumped it up to 910 and will try that for a while.

71 OLDS

Here's all it takes but bump the warm idle from 900 to 910:


Just drove for about an hour never stalled out on me and have a little of my lopey idle back. But...once the new blower motor is installed I will have to test running heat and AC then sitting at a stop light.

Also used my 0-60 feature on my GPS speedo for the first time - showed 4.59 on my first ever attempt with lots of tire spin. Not sure how accurate that is but need to try to get it under 4 seconds. Will be fun to try. With my 4.10 rear and 2.66 first gear and 1.78 second gear I hit 60 mph at about 5200 in 2nd. I notice most of the new American muscle super cars with manual transmissions are geared to hit 0-60 in first gear which supposedly drops a few tenths since you don't have to shift. Then most of those same cars cross the traps in 3rd for the quarter mile for one less shift there too. But that's a topic for another post and sadly I think manual transmissions are going bye bye because the new 8 or 10 speed automatics are simply faster then any manual trans can be no matter who is driving.

71 OLDS

Got another 0-60 run it - still too much tire spin 4.53 this time. Going to try lowering the 2 step from 3200 to 3000:

2keVY7J.jpg

71 OLDS

Been working on my launch a lot. Trying different settings and launch techniques. Getting a little better but still have a long way to go. I really want to stick with my Nitto drag radials since they are better in corners and safer in the rain then other options (MT, M&H, Hoosier etc) but man it's tough to get off the line clean. I'm looking to run one tire at all times for daily driving and when I go to the track. I know I will give up some 60 ft/ET vs going with some of other drag radials or even slicks but I'm going to try to stick with that plan. I think this 0-60 on my GPS is keeping me honest and will translate to my 60 ft times at the track. I know the track will be different but if I can improve on my 0-60 times on the street I bet that will make it easier to dial in my 60 ft times at the track. Best so far on the 0-60 was with the 2 step at 3000 RPM letting the clutch out medium to fast (no slipping) - then not giving any additional gas for about the first 10 feet until the car hooks, then rolling or easing into the gas from there just enough to not break the tires loose. My shift light on the tach comes on at 5500 so by the time I push the clutch in and shift it's probably 5700 - 5800. That seems to be about right for the feel and pull in the power band. I've gone to 6000 before but probably start to drop off in power after 5700 - 5800.

wPPFqHo.jpg

Got me a 4.47 but that's a LONG way from a 3.9. Will keep trying. May try dropping my rear down bars into the lower holes on my UMI relocation brackets just to see if that helps. I've read mixed results on that. My bars are parallel to the ground right now. Next hole down would have them pointing down slightly and the hole below that would have them pointing way down.

581QLbi.jpg

These are like the old south side machine lift bars. Supposedly it hits the tires harder. No idea if that would be a good thing or not with the manual trans and my Nitto DRs but might as well try it out. I also heard the lower you go or the more down angled the bars are the worse the cornering is. Will have to check that out too.

Also my rear UMI sway bar has 3 holes for adjustment too. It's in the middle hole right now which according to their website is for autocross.

h4kNnCi.jpg

May try the hole one back which they say is better for drag racing/launching. At least I still have lots of options to try and play with!!

71 OLDS

Special thanks to Tommy Parry for the nice online write up on my car: https://www.hotrodhotline.com/71-old...e#.WqN0uPnwbIW

71 OLDS

Got my new large size (2.25") shift ball from Speed Dawg today. I had the same one on my old 5 speed but with the different pattern obviously. This time I asked Speed Dawg to flush mount and red loctite the 3/8 24 thread adapter that fits my 67-69 442 shifter handle to prevent it from rattling at high RPMs. This one is made by HURST. Looks so much better in my opinion then the much smaller American Powertrain shift ball that came with my 6 speed:

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71 OLDS

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71 OLDS

Been working on my 0-60s and finally have a method that got it down to 4.28. This is with my front shocks on #4 setting (vs. the lowest setting on previous best results) so I can still corner hard on the streets and no change in the rear relocation brackets hole or rear sway bar yet. Started to use my line lock (hooked up to the stock cruise control button) to heat the Nitto drag radials up first. Have slowly increased my 2 step all the way up to 4500 RPM. I've been researching several manual tranny guys launching at this higher RPM with LESS tire spin than lower RPMs. You have to slip the clutch slightly and will still have a little tire spin (which is safer on the rear and the trans) but when you launch that high the car is moving forward faster and already in the power band. Still have to wait for the tires to hook before you can add any throttle and ease into it but there seems to be less tire spin and no bog at all once you roll into the gas pedal at this higher RPM.
qTqzTuQ.jpg
I gotta be honest I was nervous as hell to try launching at 4000 first then worked my way up to 4500. No clutch smell or any issues with the car. Of course it probably helps that I have the McLeod twin disk and the magnum 6 speed that can survive in the Hellcat. I had the exact same results over and over again regardless of whether I launched at 3000 all the way up to 4000. Very consistent 4.5 0 to 60 times. As soon as I went to 4500 to start me in the power band for my motor it dropped to the 4.29 twice and this 4.28 I just did today is my best so far. Will keep trying to get down to 3.9. Maybe if I put the front shocks back to the lowest setting and or play with the other options for the rear location brackets and sway bar I can get a little closer. We'll see what happens.

71 OLDS

Blast from the past - my Dad found these old pics he took in 2003 at the 75/80 Dragway in Monrovia, MD. Check out how amazing the car looks with all that lime green on it!
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So at this time the car was about 4200 lbs (car alone) with the bone stock low compression 71 455 but it did have the headers I have now (Hooker SC 1/7/8) and 2.5" exhaust and my old Richmond 5 speed. I was rocking 15" all chrome SSIs and had 275/60/15 BFG drag radials on the back with painted on RWL. The motor was probably 300ish hp with 450 ish ft/lbs of tq but at that heavy weight and low hp the performance was not too great. Keeping it real here's one of the time slips from that day:

6T9uqBc.jpg

15.3 at 90 mph with a 2.2 60 ft - this was when I knew it was time to increase the power and put the car on a diet!! It was slow but looked good. Now it's much faster but looks like *** with all that unfinished, unpainted fiberglass. Oh well - need to get back to a track around me here in Virginia Beach this spring/summer then start that paint and body process to make it pretty again.

71 OLDS

No updates for a while - just been enjoying the car. Lots of miles put on it. 2 trips to DC and back from Virginia Beach and one trip to Charlotte, NC and back. Almost 4,100 miles on the car since the 6 speed went in! Did a nice clean 0 to 60 mph pass today and got a new personal best:

VGJ9VAL.jpg

So close to my goal of 3.9!!

71 OLDS

Dropped the 442 back off at Frank's this weekend for what I hope to be the final round of upgrades and fixes for the year. Then hoping to get to the local 1/8th mile track and maybe one autocross event before the winter, then it's off to paint and body. I put 4500+ miles on the car since the new trans went in so lots of time and miles to figure out the issues I want fixed or upgraded. Here's a list:

1. Upgrading from my current QA1 hybrid single adjustable coilovers on the front to a true coil over viking double adjustable setup with 550 rated springs.
2. Rear coil over conversion is TBD. Not sure how it will fit with the huge 3" tail pipes. My current 2" drop springs are rated at 240 which is way too stiff for the rest of my setup. Hoping I can go to the rear coil overs and be able to easily adjust the ride height like the front, switch to a 150 rated spring and also upgrade to the double adjustable Vikings.
3. Assuming 1 & 2 go well I want to lower the car a little more. Currently if you measure from the top of the rim to the chrome trim ring the fronts are at about 2.5" and the rears are at about 2". Would like to dial it in at about 1.5" all the way around. Just don't think I can go any lower because of clearance issues.
4. Related to the clearance issue going to covert to a low profile exhaust clamp at the end of the header and maybe go to a oval X pipe setup. Hoping these 2 changes will buy me some extra clearance from exhaust pipe to frame and body as well as to the ground for going over speed bumps.
5. I think my Olds trumpets stick out too far so going to have them both adjusted in about an inch.
6. Upgrading from my current powermaster 150 amp alternator (90 at idle) to a powerbstrd 220 amp alternator (110 at idle) - with my electric fuel pump, electric fans, battery in the trunk, stereo with subs etc the volts still go a little low sometimes.
7. My new steering box needs some new stops put in to it stop it from hitting the sway bar on lock to lock turns.
8. Having AC issues - it's not holding freon and may need to be flushed out.
9. Several new trans clutch issues - it's hard to get the car in 1st and reverse when it's cold (throwout bearing?), the clutch pedal has slowly worked it's way closer to the floor board and definitely needs to be adjusted.
10. Add a thermostat to the oil cooler (185 degrees) so the car doesn't run too cool on the highway when the temps are cold or even cool.
Plus a few electrical and custom projects as always.

Will add pics and details as we progress along.

dc2x4drvr

Looking forward to your rear coil over install, I’m installing Ridetech on the rear, and even with 2 1/2” pipe I’m going to have clearance issues.

71 OLDS

Very slow progress so far due to shop delays/issues but will provide updates good or bad on the rear coil overs once I get them. Really hoping there's a way to get them to work but we'll see.

-Joe

dc2x4drvr

In your pics I noticed the ProTen A6, are you running a rear bracket, any issues? I have the same compressor, and wouldn’t mind deleting the rear bracket.

71 OLDS

I can confirm there are zero issues with no rear bracket. It's so much lighter than the original one (21 lbs to be exact) that no rear bracket is needed and it's solid as a rock. Also if you are going for stock appearance you can paint it flat black and buy a $5 sticker from one of the Olds parts companies. Really hard to tell it's not a real one.

-Joe