benji94

Hi all...its been awhile since I've posted anything about my restoration project, in fact a long while. I'm into my 3rd year of taking everything apart, labeling, bagging, boxing, cleaning, and sanding. Progress has been exceedingly slow, principally because I'm being so methodical with every step and also because I work on it when I feel like it...an hour here and there every few days and sometimes haven't touched it for weeks, or even months, at a time.

I finally got every part, nut, and bolt I could find off the car and the body lifted off its frame in April.....Yeahhhhhh, finally!

Suddenly, it seems, big progress has been made. The guy doing the big (and/or important) work came and got the frame, core support, rear, and a bunch of other parts for sand blasting and painting last week. Now they are all done!

Yesterday he stopped by and we bolted the body to his body rotisserie and we trailered it to his shop. He'll be tackling that while I start putting all parts back on the frame, starting Monday. I'm really looking forward to working with new and/or freshly cleaned and painted parts instead of rusty, dirty, greasy ones.

Still need to get the engine to my engine guy for a complete rebuild, but that won't take long.

Still a long way to go (and some big hurdles ahead like "how will I EVER get all that wiring back in place under the dash") but I'm think I see at least a dim light at the end of the tunnel. Shooting for a completion sometime late summer or early fall next year (still like to work at my own pace).

I did find the 'broadcast card' attached to the upholstery behind the passenger side seat back. It shows the care came with the options: bucket seats; am/fm stereo; power locks; rear window defoger; and 442 package.

Is having this of any real significance since the car has the 'X' in the VIN and has the VIN derivative on the tranny (M20 4 speed), frame, and engine? I guess it identifies the orginal options on the car but other than that it really doesn't add to its authenticity does it?

Thanks.

Steve

1979h/o

Hello steve, Seems we are neighbors (sanitaria springs). Your car looks like its a clean and nice looking project,being from the north east. Are you looking for parts still? I may be able to help you out, if so. Keep up the work,someday will come.

allyolds68

Any paperwork makes it that much better, but you're right, the "X" is the most important part

I'm about an hour and a half North of you. My car was painted in Newark Valley

benji94

Mike...was it at a small shop way back in the woods? If so I may have seen your car there at some point. I contacted them about doing my car but a) they were busy; b) I wasn't ready; and then c) I found the shop I'm with now that's less then 10 minutes from me. Makes it real convenient. Plus he's really flexible and willing to work at my slow and puttering pace.

benji94

Yup, not far. Actually I've been collecting/purchasing parts here and there for nearly the last 10 years just to have to update/refurbish when the time came. In fact I've found that I purchased a few items twice because over the years I had forgot that I bought the same part at Carlisle 4 or 5 years previous. Good grief!

I don't have any rust issues to speak off (small hole on left side at bottom behind the fender bottom...not even visible until the fender was removed) since the car was never outside since I got it in 78.

The car had a holly 750, Eldebrock manifold and headers on it when I got it so I'm putting back to originial. I've got all the original parts for the engine including a lucky find of the original carb.

The only part I haven't been able to locate as far as a numbers match is the distributor. Some time in the mid 80s I put in an Accel super coil and a dual point distributor (now haven't a clue what I was thinking at the time) and somehow between two moves the original distributor got lost or left behind. Didn't even know it had a number on it or anything special, let alone numbered to the car!

So I have found a 1112033 for the 72 442 with 455 ci and had it rebuilt to 1112036 (the correct #) specs. So close enough for governemt work I guess. If I ever come across a '36' in my strolls I'll ****** it up, but the odds are not good I expect. Other than that I can't think of anything I need or don't already have.

I'm putting an order in with Fusick's next week but its mostly just new fasteners, rubber parts like grommets, etc. and some wirining harnesses.

Thanks.

66trakpak

Hi Steve, what color combo is your w-30? I am located on long island and also have a 72 w-30 with the m20. My car is code 75 matador red with white stripes.I also found 2 broadcast cards they show option w-29 and bucket seats and one of them has a red print stamp saying 'bucket".post some pics I would love to see it.Good luck with the resto, it will be worth it in the end. gary.

benji94

Hi Gary...its Viking Blue with white stripes, white interior. Nice to know there is another one not too far away. The card in mine has the same "bucket" stamped in red on it as well. I just took some pics of it all stripped for the insurance company so maybe I can put them up once I figure it out. I have an old pic of it from some time in the mid 80s on my profile.

benji94

Picked up my freshly painted frame today and its back safe and sound in the garage. Now I've got some work to do!

Question: Does anyone know the height (length) of the front springs for this car? My new ones are 17 and 1/2 inches. The old ones I took out are two inches shorter, 15 and 1/2. Seems like a lot of 'settle' to me for those old springs but the new ones are supposed to be the right ones.

Getting them in place without the weight of the engine on the frame is going to be a challenge. I'll probably just wait until the engine is back in.

Thanks

Pacecar

I put mine in without the engine and it was not bad. The frame seemed heavy enough that it did not move when we were putting them in. I do not remember the height of my new and the old springs. But yes 2 inches seems like a lot

72w442

I have a 72 and love the Viking blue/white stripe and interior, Great color combo. Here are a few pictures.Mine was a frame on resto, lot of work but worth it,I wish I had the room for a frame off. Good luck with your project.

Chris

benji94

Thanksk Chris...love your car. I so much liked the Viking Blue of my Olds that I painted my race cars (street stocks to late models) the same color. It became my 'signature' color for 16 years of dirt track racing.

I'm sure hoping I'll get this thing back together at some point!!!

Allan R

Chris, that's very striking color combo - it presents very well. Is it a factory U or X code car?

stevengerard

I'll try to find the specs for my car, I bet those are close to being correct, there is a lot of sag in those old springs!! It was tough to figure out the correct ones, I went direct to the spring manufacturer I think it was eaton. But there are many variations, 350/455 nonac/ac etc.

At least it was you who bought the extra parts, I had the body shop tell me I was missing parts, went out and bought them only to find out later they misplaced what I had already bought. Part of me can't wait to do another ust so I can do it myself like you and do it right the first time.

Allan R

Steven, I'm wondering if those original springs aren't HD? When I took my springs out of my 72 S last year I measured them and they were 16 7/8" - both uniform. Rob was doing the front end on Lady at the same time and put in HD springs which were around 15".

Allan R

It sounds like your car has a HD suspension. So I wouldn't put in the new springs - they are not HD. If your car is a 72 W30 putting in those taller springs is not going to give you the handling you would expect from them. Compare the thickness and distance between coils on the old and new.

FWIW, if you pulled out the old ones and they were both still 15 1/2"? I'd clean them up, paint and reinstall them.

benji94

Thanks Allan. That might explain it. It is a W30 and should have the HD suspension. I didn't realize that meant shorter springs. I've had the car since 1978 and it always seemed to be low in the front to me...had to really watch it going over anything like a speed bump. The original owner had put headers on it and I was thinking maybe he put in smaller springs because it rode so low and I whacked the heck out of those headers more than a few times.

I bought these taller springs several years ago thinking they were the a) correct springs and b) it would ride higher. I'm putting it back to the exhaust manifolds and original exhaust. The diameter of the wire and distance between the coils on both springs appear to be the same, just the length is different by almost exactly two inches.

So yes the springs I took out measure 15 and a half and appear fine, just some surface rust of course. I'm going to take your advice and put them back in now since they are very likely the right springs after all.

So, if anybody needs some tall springs you know who to call!!!

What great fun!!!

Thanks.

benji94

Good grief...sounds like something close to what I've done. I've been collecting and stashing parts for at least 10 years for this car's eventual restore. A piece here and there as I ran across them at Carlisle, etc. Well now I'm finding out I have two of some parts becuase I'd forgot that I purchased it 4, 5, or more years earlier. Whatever I have left when the project is done I'm sure I can find someone who can use them.

Allan R

Steve, here are a few links you should have a look at re: your springs. They are both links to the same thread that Rob posted when he did his suspension. IIRC The HD springs in his car tended to make it stiffer, but he also doesn't have the full FE2 suspension yet, and you have a 455 instead of his 350.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post264807

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post328511

72w442

No Allan, I believe my car to be an original w-29 350 car VIN K, It came from southern Colorado, I think it started out in New mexico as I found a few receipts under the carpet near the console. It appears to have all original sheet metal and the hood looks to be original to the car.The car now has a 68 455 in it lightly built.


Thanks

benji94

Delving into the spring issue a little further...according to the 72 assembly manual there is the FE2 (4-4-2) suspension option and the F41 (heavy duty) suspension option. The springs listed for the FE2 suspension have a higher spring rate (435 lbs/in) than the springs for the F41 suspension (345 lbs/in.), by a whopping 90 lbs/in. The third suspension option, 'standard' I presume, lists springs with rates of 310 lbs.in.

Interesting! So now I'm guessing that the springs I took out of my car are most likely the correct (and orginal) FE2 suspension springs. Just going to go ahead and clean them up and put them back in the car. I think my perception of the car sitting low was just because of the headers. Certainly its ride profile looked ok.

Allan R

Steve, a slight nose down attitude does give the car a more aggressive stance. And you're right about the headers - they do reduce the ground clearance a fair bit. I had them on my car and didn't like that issue so I went back to stocker e manifolds and blocked the crossover pipe - like they did at factory and went with dual exhausts. The car sounds louder with duals, but it breathes a whole lot easier. May I suggest you touch base with Rob (Lady72nRob71) via PM and ask any other questions you may have in regards to the spring dynamics and how it affected his ride/handling? I know it changed, but I can't remember where he posted that.

72W442 - so it's a clone? Nevertheless, my compliments on a beautiful car!

benji94

Thanks Allan. Will do. If I can locate someone with a guage to check spring rate I'll probably do that too just to satisfy my curiosity.

benji94

All ready for re-uniting with the body...which is scheduled to take place on Thursday morning. Pics attached.

Allan R

Jeepers Steve, were those really taken 8 1/2 years ago???

benji94

hah!...nope, taken today in fact! Now my camera may have been purchased 8 and 1/2 years ago and I haven't a clue how to set the date on it...so any pics I take are all dated 2004. I'm no camera buff by any means. Sorry about that!

Allan R

Good to know. I'd go nuts if I had to look at that beauty sitting on the floor for 8 1/2 years. Looks really impressive. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to the marriage.

oldsguybry

Don't say marriage around me .... ok ?

Allan R

umm, sure thing Bryan. But I bet if you had that chassis sitting in your Moms garage you would be out there admiring it's clean sleek curves more than you should.....

benji94

This is the last thing I thought I'd have a problem with but here I am! Body bushings: What is the correct placement? I know what I took off the car, where they were at, and I have the assembly manual. Still, I've been able to get myself confused.

The manual shows rubber plugs (as opposed to a bushing with a metal center) on the frame right before it turns up over for the wheel wells. So no bolt in these. But I've now noticed that there is actually a nut on the underside of the body (imbedded in the cross bracing...can't think what else to call it) that would line up for a bolt through a bushing that would have the metal centers. I also looked at a photo of the inline tube car and sure enough they have a bushing with a metal center in that position.

Thus my confusion. Also, the inline tube car as a rubber plug in the hole six inches inward of the front most corner busing...my frame has the hole as well but there's no part of the body that's actually going to be coming in contact with that plug. So why did they put one there???

I sure would appreciate any input on this.

allyolds68

I would follow the asembly manual before I follow what anyone else has done, even Inline Tube. The 68 #4 mount is a puck only, no bolt. Are you looking at a pic of the Inline Tube car with the body on the frame, or a bare frame? If it's a bare frame, just because they're sitting there doesn't mean that's the way they put it together. The extra front mount is a carry over from the 67 and earlier cars which have an extra mount there. The Chevelles, Skylarks, or GTO's may use them too. They are the same frame.

Indy_68_S

I'll concur with Mike. My '68 has those inner 2 frame holes next to the #2 location in the firewall area, but nothing was in them when I took it apart.

Eddie Hansen

Benji, I am putting my body down now, see this thread
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-bushings.html

anyway those kits are somewhat generic as some a body's have double mounts in the front our oldsmobles do not, I will have bushings left over, also on the in line tube kit they do have different mounts with the smaller metal insert, the instruction manual shows where these go as well. Hope it helps bud.

benji94

The inline tube car was just the completed frame. They definitely have a bushing w/bolt for the #4 position and the assembly manual instructs a plug only (exc. station wagons). What's confused me is finding the nut under the body for that postion indicating that one COULD put a bushing with bolt there. I know it was just a plug that came off. So that's what's going back on. Just a little confusing where it doesn't need to be.

By the way, I'm also perplexed as to why the bushing in the #3 position has a different and smaller metal center. They were colored 'light green' versus 'drk green' like all the others at the factory. And I checked my old bushings and sure enough there is enough paint left on them that I can tell they were a lighter green than the others. Yet they take the same size bolt.

Just interesting more than anything else.

Thanks Mike.

Steve

benji94

Thanks Eddie. Interesting that we are both dealing with this at the same time.

Allan R

Maybe you could post some pics of this when you're dry fitting their location on the frame? It would be a great illustrative picture for anyone who may do this in the near future (which may be me, although I don't really want to)

Eddie Hansen

Allan will be happy too, I know the confusion that Ben was facing cause I did too apparently there are 'some' cars that had the extra mounts, and if you do a search on the internet you see various pics and yes some with the extra front mounts on the chasis. The in line tube kit is very correct as compared to the year one kit I bought years ago, and the bolt kit also replicated the look of the originals as opposed to the bolt kit I bought from year one years ago as well, I am sure they will perform fine but I wanted original looking bolts , why? I haven't a clue but there you have it. By the way I will make anyone interested in the year one stuff a smoking deal on it

benji94

Placed the body back on the frame last weekend. Attached are some pics (ignore the date, they were taken today).

Other than some small odds and ends this is as far as I'll get until spring since I'm leaving next month for Florida for the winter. Will be having the motor rebuilt over the winter and then will be hitting it hard when I get back in April.

Allan R

Steve, looking very good.
Have to ask about that HUGE hole for the AC? I don't remember it being that big.

jensenracing77

that is the heater box hole Allan. the A/C hole is taller but not as wide. the 72 W-30 was not available with A/C.

looks like a great job on the car.

benji94

Yup...no A/C for me! I'm very happy with it so far.