gearheads78

exceptional work as always

69442C

Thanks Richard.

Allan R

Brian, I'm lucky - I have 2 or 3 of those map lights for 72 that I can play with for my install. My OEM mirror is in exceptional shape, but I'm really worried about any breakage when I try to get it off and possibly transfer it to one of the maplights. (they all have crappy mirrors) Who did you get the repop mirror from? This isn't an immediate need, but I like to advance plan. Was that Jewelers rouge you used on the back of the mirror? Now I know why they went away from that - it gleams even in the pictures.

Not sure if you know this or not, but there's a decal that goes onto the mirror. It tells the owner how to remove the lens for bulb replacement. Got one for my 72 many years ago. If you like, I can dig it out and scan it for you. Mine is white lettering because it goes on a black mirror back, I think you would need one that has black letters. (very small decal BTW)

69442C

Allan,
The repop mirror was in one of the many boxes of parts that came with this car. But in looking at the box, it was purchased from Fusick. It's the same mirror sold by other vendors so you would have plenty of sources to choose from.

I polished the back of the mirror with 3M Perfect It II Foam Pad Polishing Glaze (dark) and I used it in combination with a wool buffing pad. I also applied the glaze by hand at the end. I was also going to give it a quick rub with simichrome polish but I didn't have any like I thought I did. It looked fine as it was so it wasn't a big deal.

I was not aware that there is a sticker for the maplight to show how to change the bulb so I'd gladly take any info you could scan and send to me. I could use it to see if I could make one. Thanks for that info.

Brian

Eddie Hansen

Allan/Brian , if the decal is a water slide type I could probably make some for you , important thing if you scan it use the highest dpi the scanner has , if you needed white lettering then you would need to find someone with an Alps printer they are one of the only ones that print white , if it is a sticker they do sell clear type label material for printers I would make sure to use a laser printer or go to Kinko's and have a sheet made just a thought..


s always Brian loving this thread and amazing work:-)

Allan R

The text is very small - probably 6 or 8 font Tahoma - all small caps.

Text reads (note: _ is a placeholder I manually inserted because this site collapses 'spaces' in text to make it fit better. So where you see the _ that indicates a space in lettering. Weird spacing, but here goes
*line 1* TO_ REPLACE _BULB:_ FIRST REMOVE
*line 2* CLEAR _LENS. _THEN _SQUEEZE SIDE
*line 3* RAILS_ AND_ REMOVE_ LAMP_ BODY

I don't think I can scan this because it's white on opaque backing. Here are the dimensions though.
Decal overall Length: 1 3/4"
overall Height: 9/32"
Letters are about 1/16" tall and lines are spaced at about 1/32"

Guys,
I found the decal, and truth be told I don't know whether its a water transfer or sticker at this point. Don't want to play with it till it's ready to be put on the maplight mirror. Eddie, for 72 it has white lettering. I expect it would likely be black for the mirrors that have silver backs. (not silverback gorillas. Hmmm Maybe I should have said chrome backs)

69442C

Allan,
Thanks for the decal info. Let me see what I can come up with. However, if someone were to follow those instructions today, it would be "Crack and Pop" that would be heard if the sides of the plastic light assembly were squeezed. New decal should read... Caution: Attempts to replace bulb by unqualified persons will result in a pile of broken parts".

Brian

Eddie Hansen

Allan what colour is the backing for the white lettering? Or did you mean transparent? If it is opaque I could set the background color use white lettering, and the use white decal paper, the printer would just print the background colour . I will fool around with it to see how it comes out is there any border? Orr is it just lettering?

69442C

Allan and Eddie,

I looked at the dimensions again and it would seem that letters 1/8" tall would be too tall to fit on a 9/32 tall decal if there were 3 rows. Looks like a Tahoma 8 would be around 1/16" tall letter which would work.

I would think a translucent backing would be better so the decal doesn't jump out at you as it might with a white background.

Brian

Allan R

I think I got you confused Eddie. What I was saying is the decal lettering (for 72) is white - because the back of the mirror is black - and is affixed to an opaque background which would make scanning it dang near impossible. The lettering is on a clear film, if that helps.

Ay yi yi! You're right. I said 1/8" but should have typed 1/16". And you're spot on with the background of the decal. It's clear so all you would see when it's affixed to the mirror is the lettering. BTW, I'm guessing at the Tahoma style. It was the closest match to the sample I have.

I'll go back and change that number in case anyone else finds it during a quick search.

69442C

I've had a couple of questions about the "other car" in my garage and some of this started to get discussion on Eddie Hansen's thread. So rather than take away from Eddie project, I'll give the details on it in this thread.

The car is a 1954 Chevrolet 210 2 dr sedan, 235 CID with 3 on the tree. I bought the car in 2003 and drove it home. It was about 30 minutes from here so it wasn't that far of a ride. I drove it right up 95 too. This car was a barn find at one point as I was told it belonged to an elderly woman and she eventually parked it when she had trouble with her driving. I think it was pulled from the barn in the late 90's. She must have drove by the Braille method as all the corners are banged up, the front fenders being the worst. The story is it sat in a leaky barn for many years hence the surface rust on the car. However, it is super solid and it only has 21,300 miles. When was the last time someone saw an East coast car that is 58 years old with no rot in the quarters or fenders? Even the lip around the rear wheel openings is fully there. Many of the parts on the car are original including the heater hoses. They are hard as a rock but all original. And I'm pretty sure the upper and lower radiator hoses are original too. The door panels look almost like new, steering wheel has no wear and the seats are not torn, but the padding is breaking down. There is a small hole in the driver's side front floor due to a leaky windshield. Looks like the passenger door and quarter had body work at some point and the paint failed and surface rust is now present. It runs very well even with the 7 year old gas in the tank. The tank is also full of crud and the accelerator pump in the carb is bad but it starts rright up with a shot of starting fluid and just runs as nice as can be. It leaks oil since the front and rear main seals are dried out. I've attached a picture of the original bill of sale with a few of the car and check out those options!!! Also note the trade-in! Interesting too is that the dealer that sold the car was about 40 minutes away from here. It's now closed but there was a GM dealership at that location up to about 10 years ago.
My plans with the car are to resto mod it. I'd like to keep the body fairly stock looking but install a completely modern suspension and drivetrain and give it a much better stance. Additionally, upgrade the interior, add AC, all the power features etc. Almost like building a newer car into an older body. I've pondered the thought of a 2012 or newer Camaro 3.6 V6 with 6 speed auto as this package has 323hp and delivers 30 mpg's in a Camaro. I do worry about the exhaust tone with a V6 but GM did a major head redesign in 2012 and the exhaust manifuld is now internal to the aluminum cylinder heads. Just a rectangular port for an exhaust is all that is visible. The new Camaros sound normal so that would be what I would want if I went that route. See link to this head design. http://www.autoblog.com/2011/05/17/h...re-horsepower/
I could also go with a 5.3 LS type engine with the same trans. Still trying to decide and it will be a couple of years before I tackle this. Lots of house projects to get done first since I've not done much with the house while working on the 442. I've accumulated parts for the 54 over the years and I have almost all NOS sheetmetal for the front. I do have NOS fenders and a gravel shield (fits behind the bumper) and I bought a hood and deck lid that were removed from a totaled 54 way back in 1955. These parts are just as nice as NOS in my opinion. The side trim for the fenders and doors is NOS and I found very nice used qtr moldings.
Anyway, lots of time for planning and gathering more parts. Doing something custom like this will be new for me and I'm looking forward to the challenge. So for those with inquiring minds, that's the scoop. Yeah, it's not an Olds but I couldn't pass it up especially since I got it for $2400.

Brian

Allan R

You know Brian, that looks almost like the 54 we had back in Athabasca when I was growing up. Dad bought it used in 59 and gave it to Mom to drive because she was such a horrible driver. I remember riding in it as a kid - we called it the "old blue rattle trap". Probably because Mom put it in the ditch so many times it squeaked and rattled all the time, especially on all the gravel roads we had back then. Ours was baby blue - looked like this:


It also had the 3 on the tree. Mom used to grind about 2 pounds of gears every time she drove it. She never could figure out how the clutch worked. Amazing I don't have whiplash from all that. I know it will be some time before you start this, but it will make an awesome project. From what I've seen on the web there are more repop parts being made for old Chevy's like this than ever before.

oldcutlass

My buddy just pulled a 53 imitation Belair convertable out of the shed. Thats a hard top with the roof removed, lol. We are in the process of dropping a 350 in it with T350. It already had an S10 front clip welded to it with a disc brake setup. The gas tank was 1/2 full of crud and a rotted through up top. The body and floors are pretty solid, I'll send you some pic's next week.

He has about 150 old cars scattered around 3 properties. So far we've put together a 61 chev swb and a 50 chev sedan delivery.

69442C

Yes indeed Allan, looks like your mom also had a 54 Chevy 210. Sorry to hear she wasn't so easy on it ......and you.

69442C

Eric, the missing roof also makes them go faster since the car is lighter. And the roof would make an awesome sled in the snow.

I'd like to see how the 53 sits with the S10 frame clip and how the clip looks where it mates up to the original frame. The S10 track dimension is about 5" narrower than the 54.

Wow, 150 cars just scattered around! Are they good cars or mostly junk?

Brian

Eddie Hansen

I think this style is awesome, but for me , and it was my build, I'd probably go old skool, small block , Chevy dual quad Mani, maybe a 6 pack ? Torque thrusts, 4 0r 5 speed, fender well headers tuck and roll in red car all black ........... or ls1 with a hilborn looking set up, 6 speed, discs all around, I wonder if a jag rear suspension would fit, I seen one in a 55 once, inboard discs and all

oldcutlass

That roof has been long gone! Snow????

I'll get ya some pic's next week. No not junk, complete cars in various stages of disarray. Quite a few 4 doors, and a lot of odd stuff. Remember this is Texas, it takes a very long time for cars to rot away here.

oldsguybry

Very nice car Brian ! .... and thanks for the info on spraying the epoxy .

Eddie Hansen

hmmmm.... something like this LOL


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Eddie Hansen

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I thought that was You Allan, probably gave Rat Fink great ideas LOL... J/K and I am sorry my friend, I took some artistic license with a rat fink picture, saw the blue guy, it said "cold", thought about you in the frozen tundra LOL... poifect!!

gearheads78

I know its a long way away but I would stray away from the Camaro motor. Once these things see some miles they are going to be nothing but cam accuator and timing chain issues. Also in stock form they make no sound except the loud ticking injector pump. Every time one comes in that someone has added exhaust sound like crap IMO.

I would stick with the LS v8 idea. My shop foremans mild cammed LS3 powered G8 makes over 500RWHP and can still get 26 mpg on highway when you stay out of it.

69442C

Richard, that's for that info and that is exactly what I needed to hear. An LS style V8 it will be. I think I'll lean more towards a 5.3 to save a little money and the availability should be pretty good given all the truck and Suburban applications. It will be down the road a little but I can still look for deals on parts and grab them while I'm waiting.

Brian

Eddie Hansen

YippppeeYay!!!


VROOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

me likey..lol

gearheads78

Can't go wrong. If I can ever get caught up I have a 5.3 to go in a 78 Suburban along with all the parts for it to be slammed to the ground.

69cutlassragtop

Good thing I had the day off today; I could spend all day reviewing this thread! Descriptions and pics are awesome. I just completed my 69 Cutlass vert project. This thread explains lots of the issues I ran into. I wish I had seen it earlier! If you ever compile all of this into a download, please put me on your interested parties list.

442rocketdave

I am starting to restore for the second time in 32 years my 69 and I have only one thing to say, this is some of the finest repair work I have ever seen. The quality of your work is second to none. Beautiful when finished. It will be better than factory new! Thanks for some super photo's!!!

69442C

Thanks for the compliments guys. I'm not sure what I'm doing with the photos but if I do put them on a site where they can be downloaded I'll be sure to post a link.

Not much to report lately. Started working on the lower air dam and I will have photos of that work soon. Just Dashes did call me last week to tell me the A Pillar Pads should be completed by mid January. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished pieces.

442rocketdave

I worked for muscle car review magazine many years ago along with 5 other magazines and I have restored many cars over the years and been involved in racing and other venues of the auto world and your attention to detail and meticulous work is the BEST I have seen in years!! Please keep taking photo's and make a catalog or album of this, it is invaluable to all Oldsmobile restorers and people who are second guessing if its worth it! THEY DONT MAKE THEM ANYMORE!!! Thanks to you I am recommitted to finishing my olds!!!

69442C

I appreciate those comments and try my best but it's not a perfect car. I'm glad this gave you a little motivation to finish yours and now that you let the cat out of the bag, I guess you'll need to post some pictures of your car. I wonder if we have ever crossed paths before? Hemmings Muscle Machines featured the last car I did and it was a car I used to own. It's basically 1 of 1 given the gold anodized T-Tops. I bought it from Hurst when I worked there in the early 80's. This same HO was also featured in the Jan 1980 issue of Super Stock magazine and I believe Mike Rowell wrote that article. Hurst lent them the car for the article.
http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/...feature21.html

Is your 69 a factory AC car?
Brian

442rocketdave

I remember the article in Hemmings and I subscribe to them. I also notice how many times Oldsmobile's have made muscle car of the year in the past 5 years. People are starting to pay attention to how few were made and still how few there are left! Ken Reese and I grew up together and between us alone we must of parted out 50 cars or more. I could kick myself for that! You said you used to work for Hurst? that would have been cool. I met George Demer of Demer tool and die in Lansing great stories!! So I will start posting photo's and they are going to be ugly! at first anyway. This car you are doing should be made into an article for Hemmings Muscle car magazine!!!! They need to show more projects! You should contact them!

442rocketdave

Oh yeah I have a 69 W30 4spd car with a 4.33 posi and I have had it 30 years! I have owned many many more but this one I cant get rid of! I will die with it! Leave it to my Grandchildren for sure!

69442C

The owner of the 79 HO is friendly with the editor of HMM. HMM contacted me a couple of years ago with interest in the car and I did send him an email about a month ago letting him know the completion was getting close. So far no response. I'll send one more email to him and if I don't hear I'll just leave it at that. And I'm sure all of us could kick ourselves about cars from our past. Looking forward to seeing your car.

69442C

And that's one you should definitely keep.

69442C

I wanted to give an update on an earlier thread I did that pertained to this 442 convertible. As anyone with a 68-70 A Body with factory AC knows, the compressor function is annoying since the AC compressor cannot be disengaged with the dash control once the compressor has been engaged. The only way to disengage it is the turn the ignition off. The earlier thread I did dealt with modifying the function of the AC system without changing the appearance of the system. My goal was to be able to engage/disengage the compressor for AC mode with the dash control and also engage/disengage the compressor for the Defrost mode with the dash control. I recently tested this with the car running by placing a test light on the compressor plug (didn't want to run the compressor since the AC is not charged) and the system works exactly as I wanted it to. The compressor engages when the dash selector is in AC or Defrost and immediately disengaes when the selector is removed from those positions. I've seen people suggest other "fixes" for this but they were bad ideas as they would carry the load of the compressor directly on the contacts in the dash control. My modifications carry all the loads through the factory Hold-In relay and a second aftermarket relay operated by vacuum. Here is the link to the earlier thread if anyone wants to read it.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-function.html

Brian

ent72olds

Holy Cow Brian! I just found this thread 3 days ago, and just finally caught up on it! I have to say, I am thoroughly impressed with your attention to detail. Awesome call to convince the owner to go back to the original color....I don't ever remember seeing a '69 in Nugget Gold, or what ever the color was called for that year. He will be extremely satisfied, and he made the right decision in sending it to you...I may be hitting you up for some advice on some of the detail stuff in the future! Keep it up!

69442C

Thanks Erik.

Brian

442rocketdave

69442C I like the dolly you built I am going to make mine after yours, it has more height and I think that will help. I have a problem and that is I need 2 front fenders and a trunk. If you know of any I would appreciate it if you could let me know. I have been looking for some time and I dont want to use fiberglass fenders. I have a 69 hardtop coupe.

69442C

I have seen people offering fenders for your car on this site so they are out there. And there's a trunk lid (assuming this is what you meant by trunk) currently being offered now by a guy in IL. If you can do a little welding I think this lid is very useable and the price is reasonable too.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...trunk-lid.html

I'd suggest you place a Parts Wanted Ad on CO and make sure to reference your location. 68 and 69 model year fenders will interchange as long as it's not an early 68 fender. Those only had 2 holes for the hood hinges but later 68 and 69's had provisions for both 2 bolt or 3 bolt hinges. As long as the fender was drilled with 5 holes, you can always move the treaded backing plates around to get a 3 bolt hinge set up which is correct for a 69. Still haven't seen you post any photos of your car....maybe a few in your Parts Wanted thread would be a good idea.

Brian

Eddie Hansen

Brian I have not forgotten the decals, will try to get to them this weekend.

69442C

Thanks Eddie. If you do get them done this weekend, maybe you can catch Santa when he comes by your house and he can bring them to MD and slip them into my stocking.

No rush so don't go nuts trying to get them done.

Brian