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I hope what I'm asking here is understandable:
Should the Cameo White be applied as single-stage base-coat only or base-coat + clear-coat?
Should the Firefrost Gold be base-coat only or base-coat + clear coat?
I'm aware the black pinstripe should be hand-painted.
If you are trying to perform an exact restoration, the answer is neither. The original paint was lacquer, both for the white and the Firefrost Gold. That's no longer an option, so neither SS nor BC/CC will give you exactly the same sheen or appearance as the original hand-buffed lacquer. Pretty much everyone understands this, so I'd go with BC/CC and use an intercoat clear between the white basecoat and the gold stripes.
Don R,
Though I've received a set of stripe templates, your diagram with the dimensions included is proving to be very helpful.
I learned this just yesterday and wanted to thank you.
If you are trying to perform an exact restoration, the answer is neither. The original paint was lacquer, both for the white and the Firefrost Gold. That's no longer an option, so neither SS nor BC/CC will give you exactly the same sheen or appearance as the original hand-buffed lacquer. Pretty much everyone understands this, so I'd go with BC/CC and use an intercoat clear between the white basecoat and the gold stripes.
There are some vendors in Hemmings Motor news that still sell lacquer paints. Don't know if they have a custon mixer according to original colors or not but it might be worth a try. If it is important.
Don R,
Though I've received a set of stripe templates, your diagram with the dimensions included is proving to be very helpful.
I learned this just yesterday and wanted to thank you.
Glad it helps although I'm surprised this isn't exhaustively documented today. My car came out pretty good way back then but I've also read that when Hurst added the stripes they were not all exactly identical anyway.
Ron,
It's interesting the things I'm learning during this project.
When I first looked at the template I obtained, it appeared the gold stripe along the top of the door was too narrow. However, your dimension along with other research I've done confirmed it to being as correct as possible.
The bottom edge of the stripes that were on my car (not original paint), were too close to the door handles.
As you noted, I've also come to understand/accept that the stripes on the production cars were not always identical.
I've also learned the color of my gold stripes was not correct.
Last edited by Tom Bilse; September 22nd, 2018 at 01:01 PM.
During my quest for a correct carb, I've been informed on some 7029251 units, the "70" part of the number was omitted.
For instance I've received photos of a carb which has the following stamped on it, all in one line.
"29251 (space) RJ (space) 0919"
The stamp appears to be consistent (font, spacing, good legibility), and is applied where normally just the "7029251" and "RJ" would be.
Has anyone else seen this?
Thanks.
I hope what I'm asking here is understandable:
Should the Cameo White be applied as single-stage base-coat only or base-coat + clear-coat?
Should the Firefrost Gold be base-coat only or base-coat + clear coat?
I'm aware the black pinstripe should be hand-painted.
Thanks,
First the reformulated FireFrost Gold in dupont( now Axalta) is spot on, but I have heard some of the toners for the formulation are discontinued.. and only made in a basecoat/clearcoat system.
The new urethane are the way to go far more durable.. especially Axalta Chroma Premier series..
the Cameo white is very common and I believe it is still a GM truck fleet color...
when you get ready, I have an original head rest with the faded gold stripe. PM me your address and I'll contribution it to the cause for you to use as a template
Jamesbo:
Thanks for your generous offer. Except for the package tray, my interior, including headrests, is in great condition. Thus I won't be needing yours.
I'll be posting the following in Parts Wanted. Would you happen to have a circular mirror glass for one of the outside mirrors. One of mine is missing for whatever reason.
I appreciate your help all along during this project.
The power brake booster on my car does not have the "gold" anodized finish.
Should it?
If yes, it may be less expensive to purchase a new/anodized unit than to have mine refinished.
Has anyone ordered the power brake booster from Fusick (part # PBB672)? Did this work well? Any concerns?
Thanks.
Tom I am unaware if the factory issued units on the '69's were painted or anodized. I would not buy a reproduction for that car though. First I'd find out if the stampings were correct for the car and if so have the unit overhauled and plated or painted as prescribed. For our wagon, I purchased a correctly stamped booster from Oldspackrat and sent it to Steve Gregori at brakeboosters.com to have it repaired. It did take a while for him to finish it, and his temperament was not as pleasant as I would have thought. The end product was good though. Munoz used another vendor recently, he may have some feedback on his experience.
Can't help with correct finish but if you have the factory booster I agree with Funkwagon455, get it rebuilt, I used Booster Dewey for rebuilding my Starfire unit plus gold cad replating and was very pleased.
Funkwagon455 and Don_R., thanks for your responses and suggestions. The wealth of knowledge on CO is certainly impressive.
Looks like I'll have mine rebuilt.
Punched holes with rubber plugs exist in my doors and quarter jamb, per the attached photos.
I believe these are not "original" and were likely used to apply Ziebart (or similar).
Agreed?
Thanks.
Punched holes with rubber plugs exist in my doors and quarter jamb, per the attached photos.
I believe these are not "original" and were likely used to apply Ziebart (or similar).
Agreed?
Thanks.
You are correct, this was very popular in Illinois where I came from. Never really knew if it helped or hurt but get ready to find a lot of gunk if you open up any panels.
Thanks Don_R. and Funkwagon455.
Yeah, there are quite a few holes/plugs in the H/O.
I'm from Wisconsin originally, so I'm familiar with Ziebart.
I remember when our family bought a Suburban new in '73. Had it "Ziebarted" before first picking it up from the dealership. Nonetheless, had to have the vehicle repainted, etc. within a few years due to significant rust development.
The project is proceeding well IMO. The attached photo is from a few days ago.
Does a list exist indicating the correct color of black, etc. (gloss, semi gloss, flattener percentages) for the engine compartment components (firewall, frame, suspension arms, etc.)?
Or, who would be a good source for this information? Thanks.
Thanks Don_R. and Funkwagon455.
Yeah, there are quite a few holes/plugs in the H/O.
I'm from Wisconsin originally, so I'm familiar with Ziebart.
I remember when our family bought a Suburban new in '73. Had it "Ziebarted" before first picking it up from the dealership. Nonetheless, had to have the vehicle repainted, etc. within a few years due to significant rust development.
Not sure if has to do with how well the Ziebart or Rusty Jones was applied, but it seems many cars that were treated were much less rusted out than those not treated. The '73 and later Chevy trucks, Blazers, and Suburbans were extremely rust prone, and any treatment might not have helped.
Posting a photo of what I believe is a retaining plate (for lack of a better term). There are 4 on the underside of the body.
I'd like to replace all 4. I've searched Fusick catalog, but haven't found it there.
Thanks.
The project is proceeding well IMO. The attached photo is from a few days ago.
Does a list exist indicating the correct color of black, etc. (gloss, semi gloss, flattener percentages) for the engine compartment components (firewall, frame, suspension arms, etc.)?
Or, who would be a good source for this information? Thanks.
Chassis is 80% gloss black
Firewall is a different black, more like the under hood black the underhood black lacquer that Year Onesells should be correct but might want to just formulate a good urethane with flattener for durablility.
Fred,
Thanks for the paint color info. I think my painter will likely want to formulate the color(s), at least based on comments he's made.
I'm going to be looking at/photographing the engine compartment of a pristine '68 H/O in a couple days and Jeff Meister's '69 next weekend.
Bernhard,
Thanks for your input.
My wife and I took an Alaskan cruise in 2013 which sailed from/returned to Vancouver. Intentionally arrived a day before/departed a day after the cruise to tour the city - absolutely beautiful!
I'm searching for the 1969 "Harrison AC" decal shown in the attached image.
I've found one available on the Supercars Unlimited site, but an image of it isn't shown.
Has anyone ordered/seen this item from SU and is it correct/accurate?
Is there another source for it? I've not been able to find it at Fusick nor Year One.
Thanks.
A big THANK YOU to Jeff Meister for allowing me to visit him this past Saturday at his beautiful home to take a look at, and numerous photos of, his immaculate '69 H/O.
I was visiting my brother/sister-in-law/parents in Munster, IN., this past wknd and took the opportunity to see Jeff. Despite the cold temp, the sunny clear morning helped me get great views of the car.
Jeff's truly a gentleman and very welcoming.
He's been helping me all along during my project but this was my first time meeting him.
As an aside my brother (Notre Dame grad) and I attended the ND/Florida State game Saturday night. Quite cold, but thankfully not too windy. I think my tolerance for cold has diminished significantly since moving away from Wisconsin in 1981.
I'm searching for the 1969 "Harrison AC" decal shown in the attached image.
I've found one available on the Supercars Unlimited site, but an image of it isn't shown.
Has anyone ordered/seen this item from SU and is it correct/accurate?
Is there another source for it? I've not been able to find it at Fusick nor Year One.
Thanks.
September 21st, 2018, 09:56 AM
