1970 442 455 build
April 21st, 2018, 06:40 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 28
1970 442 455 build
Hi all,
I just purchased a 1970 Olds 442 2 door coupe with a 455, A/C, 3:23 gears, posi, automatic TH400. 17,678 original miles field find. The car was covered but needs a lot of tlc. I just had all the bushings replaced, added posi, new ball joints and rebuilt the entire front end, new brakes. It has E heads cast intake and Rochester 4 bl. It was leaking oil everywhere so I replaced all the seals and gaskets. I put in a MSD HEI distributor, now it runs great but is lacking a bit of HP.
I want to put on an aluminum intake. Any suggestions?
Also I need to replace the dual exhaust, I am thinking 2.5" stainless using factory exhaust manifolds. It sounds like headers have issues. The factory cam is a 435/435 lift. This is not a W-30 can anyone recommend a higher lift cam? I think the W-30 cam is 228 degrees with 474 lift. I really want more performance
Also do you think a 700r4 or 200r4 is worth the expense?
sure would appreciate any help
I just purchased a 1970 Olds 442 2 door coupe with a 455, A/C, 3:23 gears, posi, automatic TH400. 17,678 original miles field find. The car was covered but needs a lot of tlc. I just had all the bushings replaced, added posi, new ball joints and rebuilt the entire front end, new brakes. It has E heads cast intake and Rochester 4 bl. It was leaking oil everywhere so I replaced all the seals and gaskets. I put in a MSD HEI distributor, now it runs great but is lacking a bit of HP.
I want to put on an aluminum intake. Any suggestions?
Also I need to replace the dual exhaust, I am thinking 2.5" stainless using factory exhaust manifolds. It sounds like headers have issues. The factory cam is a 435/435 lift. This is not a W-30 can anyone recommend a higher lift cam? I think the W-30 cam is 228 degrees with 474 lift. I really want more performance
Also do you think a 700r4 or 200r4 is worth the expense?
sure would appreciate any help
April 21st, 2018, 07:41 PM
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 28
Craigs 442
After reading many threads on this site, I have so much to learn about these cars. I had a nice hot rod in college and now this 442. The interior is perfect except for the drivers seat, I want to put in a tilt column and a power drivers seat, it has floor shift now. It seems strong but not quite strong enough. Is overdrive worth putting in? Currently have 3:23 gears and a TH400 tranny.The motor only has just under 18,000 miles so rebuilding doesn't seem necessary at this point. But I would like to drive it out of the city to events and shows after I get it painted.
has anyone worked with after market side view mirrors, perhaps power and heated. The car now is a Base without options other than A/C
has anyone worked with after market side view mirrors, perhaps power and heated. The car now is a Base without options other than A/C
April 22nd, 2018, 07:17 AM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Olympia,WA
Posts: 1,731
Nice ride. You have come to the right place. Looks like the car has aftermarket a/c.
Not sure about aftermarket heated mirrors but I've never looked for retro fit modern mirrors.
3.23's are good gears, 200r4 will bolt up with minimal trouble. Other OD trans' will require more work.
Not sure about aftermarket heated mirrors but I've never looked for retro fit modern mirrors.
3.23's are good gears, 200r4 will bolt up with minimal trouble. Other OD trans' will require more work.
April 22nd, 2018, 07:57 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Delta BC Canada
Posts: 3,688
Hi all,
I just purchased a 1970 Olds 442 2 door coupe with a 455, A/C, 3:23 gears, posi, automatic TH400. 17,678 original miles field find. The car was covered but needs a lot of tlc. I just had all the bushings replaced, added posi, new ball joints and rebuilt the entire front end, new brakes. It has E heads cast intake and Rochester 4 bl. It was leaking oil everywhere so I replaced all the seals and gaskets. I put in a MSD HEI distributor, now it runs great but is lacking a bit of HP.
I want to put on an aluminum intake. Any suggestions?
Also I need to replace the dual exhaust, I am thinking 2.5" stainless using factory exhaust manifolds. It sounds like headers have issues. The factory cam is a 435/435 lift. This is not a W-30 can anyone recommend a higher lift cam? I think the W-30 cam is 228 degrees with 474 lift. I really want more performance
Also do you think a 700r4 or 200r4 is worth the expense?
sure would appreciate any help
I just purchased a 1970 Olds 442 2 door coupe with a 455, A/C, 3:23 gears, posi, automatic TH400. 17,678 original miles field find. The car was covered but needs a lot of tlc. I just had all the bushings replaced, added posi, new ball joints and rebuilt the entire front end, new brakes. It has E heads cast intake and Rochester 4 bl. It was leaking oil everywhere so I replaced all the seals and gaskets. I put in a MSD HEI distributor, now it runs great but is lacking a bit of HP.
I want to put on an aluminum intake. Any suggestions?
Also I need to replace the dual exhaust, I am thinking 2.5" stainless using factory exhaust manifolds. It sounds like headers have issues. The factory cam is a 435/435 lift. This is not a W-30 can anyone recommend a higher lift cam? I think the W-30 cam is 228 degrees with 474 lift. I really want more performance
Also do you think a 700r4 or 200r4 is worth the expense?
sure would appreciate any help
Do not use the W-30 cam. Modern cams offer far better choices. Match your cam to the gear and compression ratio. Performer 455 is a very good option for your build but you need to choose all the pieces to work together. Headers add performance and are only an issue if you buy the wrong header. Use quality gaskets like Remflex and good fasteners.
April 22nd, 2018, 10:03 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 28
yes, I have all the service records for the car, The original owner was killed in Vietnam in 1973 according to his parents. the car sat outside covered with a tarp and plywood on top until I purchased it. The interior looks brand new except for the drivers seat which was exposed to the sun due to the tarp being torn. The tarp only covered the glass. The vinyl top is original. It has some rust on the fenders and a little on the left quarter panel. I purchased the car for $10,000. The A/C looks like a Dealer add on. I do not know much about these cars but I am learning.
April 22nd, 2018, 10:54 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 28
Edelbrock Performer vs Edelbrock 04B
Hi all,
I have a Edelbrock 04B aluminum intake manifold, A friend wants to sell be a Polished Performer and Polished Holley Carb w/ an electric choke. They are both new in the box. Is the difference between the two manifolds noticeable? The Polished sure looks nice but nice looks seldom equal great performance. Will either fit under the hood. My 70' 442 has a stock 455 in it. It has a 4 core brass radiator in it, with a Transmission cooler. would a Aluminum 4 core be better?
So much to learn, this is a fun project.
The third pic is what I want my car to look like after it is painted
Have a Good day all
I have a Edelbrock 04B aluminum intake manifold, A friend wants to sell be a Polished Performer and Polished Holley Carb w/ an electric choke. They are both new in the box. Is the difference between the two manifolds noticeable? The Polished sure looks nice but nice looks seldom equal great performance. Will either fit under the hood. My 70' 442 has a stock 455 in it. It has a 4 core brass radiator in it, with a Transmission cooler. would a Aluminum 4 core be better?
So much to learn, this is a fun project.
The third pic is what I want my car to look like after it is painted
Have a Good day all
April 22nd, 2018, 12:24 PM
#9
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Medford, Oregon
Posts: 13,681
This is just me, but with those low miles documented I'd keep it as original as possible. That goes for the carb, intake and radiator if they're functioning or could be restored to function well. Each of these items have a code showing them as correct for your 1970 442. If you do decide to change things I'd keep the original parts and store them away so it could be changed back someday if you decide to.
The four row radiator is the heavy duty option and cooled the 455 adequately when the car was new and being driven back in the day.
Would you take a picture of the trim tag on the firewall to share with us? That's located on the firewall under the hood, near the brake master cylinder.
John
The four row radiator is the heavy duty option and cooled the 455 adequately when the car was new and being driven back in the day.
Would you take a picture of the trim tag on the firewall to share with us? That's located on the firewall under the hood, near the brake master cylinder.
John
April 22nd, 2018, 05:56 PM
#10
Out of Line, Everytime😉
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 8,909
Cutlassefi Dyno tested the OB4 and Edelbrock Performer along with others. The OB4 was the bottom of the barrel, get the Performer. A Roller cam will provide better vacuum and power with more lift for a given duration and no worries of flat lobes. Cutlassefi is the guy to contact for cams.
April 24th, 2018, 11:13 AM
#11
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 28
Craigs 442
Hi all,
Thanks so much for the input and advice,
I just got my 442 back from the driveline shop, they replaced all the bushing, bead blasted the parts repainted them and reinstalled as many original parts as possible. They replaced the springs, shocks, Brakes, the entire front steering linkage, bearings and the posi differential. They also replace the distributor with a MSD HEI, now the tachometer does not work. A friend owns the shop and he gave me really good deal so I want to try to figure out how to hook up the tach myself. Can anyone tell me what to look for? what do the wires look like and where do they go? I am assuming they must be connected to the distributor somehow but I have zero experience.
Also, now the car really runs strong but the idle is a bit rough until you accelerate then it smooths out and goes like the wind. Is that normal for a factory 455 engine? The whole car shakes until you step on the gas and then it smooths out and away you go!
I spoke with his mom ( she is now 93, bless her soul ) she said he had a Mechanic shop and raced cars, But did not know what he did to his cars only saying they were fun to drive and the fastest in town at the time. She has another car to sell. A 1970 Buick GS with a 455 Stage 1 motor, I have never heard of this kind of motor? I drove it a couple of days ago, It really spins the tires. After creating a smoke storm it took off and within no time I was going 110 down the street with much more to go. Kind of startled me a bit. I am going on 70 years old and this brought back some memories. It is white with a black vinyl top, has factory ram air. It has 68,000 documented miles. I assume that he enjoyed this car more which is why the 442 only has just under 18,000 documented miles. His mom had this car serviced by a local shop to get it ready to sell.
In shop out back she has many original parts in original boxes, like carbs, starters, filters, points, distributors, Aluminum pistons, intakes, Headers, some kind of exhaust pipes the just go up in the air, short chrome, looks like they are for a dragster. Plus many engines, transmissions, wheels, tires, Everything he used in his shop. including a big red engine analyser on wheels. These may be wanted by Retro folks? There are many HEMI parts, motors and such as well. They are located in Aurora Colorado is anyone is interested.
He had other cars as well but most are old from 1927 up to 1970. I am thinking he raced cars and built Custom Hotrods.
If anyone wants any of these parts send me note, I will send you pics and a contact number. She is selling all this stuff because she is old and ready for assisted living. I told her I would tell the community on this site and others may be interested as I was with the 442 I purchased from her.
Back to my 442, The clock in intermittent and the tach now does not work, are they related somehow with the new distributor? or two separate issues?
Thanks for ready my post
Craig
Thanks so much for the input and advice,
I just got my 442 back from the driveline shop, they replaced all the bushing, bead blasted the parts repainted them and reinstalled as many original parts as possible. They replaced the springs, shocks, Brakes, the entire front steering linkage, bearings and the posi differential. They also replace the distributor with a MSD HEI, now the tachometer does not work. A friend owns the shop and he gave me really good deal so I want to try to figure out how to hook up the tach myself. Can anyone tell me what to look for? what do the wires look like and where do they go? I am assuming they must be connected to the distributor somehow but I have zero experience.
Also, now the car really runs strong but the idle is a bit rough until you accelerate then it smooths out and goes like the wind. Is that normal for a factory 455 engine? The whole car shakes until you step on the gas and then it smooths out and away you go!
I spoke with his mom ( she is now 93, bless her soul ) she said he had a Mechanic shop and raced cars, But did not know what he did to his cars only saying they were fun to drive and the fastest in town at the time. She has another car to sell. A 1970 Buick GS with a 455 Stage 1 motor, I have never heard of this kind of motor? I drove it a couple of days ago, It really spins the tires. After creating a smoke storm it took off and within no time I was going 110 down the street with much more to go. Kind of startled me a bit. I am going on 70 years old and this brought back some memories. It is white with a black vinyl top, has factory ram air. It has 68,000 documented miles. I assume that he enjoyed this car more which is why the 442 only has just under 18,000 documented miles. His mom had this car serviced by a local shop to get it ready to sell.
In shop out back she has many original parts in original boxes, like carbs, starters, filters, points, distributors, Aluminum pistons, intakes, Headers, some kind of exhaust pipes the just go up in the air, short chrome, looks like they are for a dragster. Plus many engines, transmissions, wheels, tires, Everything he used in his shop. including a big red engine analyser on wheels. These may be wanted by Retro folks? There are many HEMI parts, motors and such as well. They are located in Aurora Colorado is anyone is interested.
He had other cars as well but most are old from 1927 up to 1970. I am thinking he raced cars and built Custom Hotrods.
If anyone wants any of these parts send me note, I will send you pics and a contact number. She is selling all this stuff because she is old and ready for assisted living. I told her I would tell the community on this site and others may be interested as I was with the 442 I purchased from her.
Back to my 442, The clock in intermittent and the tach now does not work, are they related somehow with the new distributor? or two separate issues?
Thanks for ready my post
Craig
May 2nd, 2018, 08:15 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Delta BC Canada
Posts: 3,688
Stage1
Hi all,
Thanks so much for the input and advice,
I just got my 442 back from the driveline shop, they replaced all the bushing, bead blasted the parts repainted them and reinstalled as many original parts as possible. They replaced the springs, shocks, Brakes, the entire front steering linkage, bearings and the posi differential. They also replace the distributor with a MSD HEI, now the tachometer does not work. A friend owns the shop and he gave me really good deal so I want to try to figure out how to hook up the tach myself. Can anyone tell me what to look for? what do the wires look like and where do they go? I am assuming they must be connected to the distributor somehow but I have zero experience.
Also, now the car really runs strong but the idle is a bit rough until you accelerate then it smooths out and goes like the wind. Is that normal for a factory 455 engine? The whole car shakes until you step on the gas and then it smooths out and away you go!
I spoke with his mom ( she is now 93, bless her soul ) she said he had a Mechanic shop and raced cars, But did not know what he did to his cars only saying they were fun to drive and the fastest in town at the time. She has another car to sell. A 1970 Buick GS with a 455 Stage 1 motor, I have never heard of this kind of motor? I drove it a couple of days ago, It really spins the tires. After creating a smoke storm it took off and within no time I was going 110 down the street with much more to go. Kind of startled me a bit. I am going on 70 years old and this brought back some memories. It is white with a black vinyl top, has factory ram air. It has 68,000 documented miles. I assume that he enjoyed this car more which is why the 442 only has just under 18,000 documented miles. His mom had this car serviced by a local shop to get it ready to sell.
In shop out back she has many original parts in original boxes, like carbs, starters, filters, points, distributors, Aluminum pistons, intakes, Headers, some kind of exhaust pipes the just go up in the air, short chrome, looks like they are for a dragster. Plus many engines, transmissions, wheels, tires, Everything he used in his shop. including a big red engine analyser on wheels. These may be wanted by Retro folks? There are many HEMI parts, motors and such as well. They are located in Aurora Colorado is anyone is interested.
He had other cars as well but most are old from 1927 up to 1970. I am thinking he raced cars and built Custom Hotrods.
If anyone wants any of these parts send me note, I will send you pics and a contact number. She is selling all this stuff because she is old and ready for assisted living. I told her I would tell the community on this site and others may be interested as I was with the 442 I purchased from her.
Back to my 442, The clock in intermittent and the tach now does not work, are they related somehow with the new distributor? or two separate issues?
Thanks for ready my post
Craig
Thanks so much for the input and advice,
I just got my 442 back from the driveline shop, they replaced all the bushing, bead blasted the parts repainted them and reinstalled as many original parts as possible. They replaced the springs, shocks, Brakes, the entire front steering linkage, bearings and the posi differential. They also replace the distributor with a MSD HEI, now the tachometer does not work. A friend owns the shop and he gave me really good deal so I want to try to figure out how to hook up the tach myself. Can anyone tell me what to look for? what do the wires look like and where do they go? I am assuming they must be connected to the distributor somehow but I have zero experience.
Also, now the car really runs strong but the idle is a bit rough until you accelerate then it smooths out and goes like the wind. Is that normal for a factory 455 engine? The whole car shakes until you step on the gas and then it smooths out and away you go!
I spoke with his mom ( she is now 93, bless her soul ) she said he had a Mechanic shop and raced cars, But did not know what he did to his cars only saying they were fun to drive and the fastest in town at the time. She has another car to sell. A 1970 Buick GS with a 455 Stage 1 motor, I have never heard of this kind of motor? I drove it a couple of days ago, It really spins the tires. After creating a smoke storm it took off and within no time I was going 110 down the street with much more to go. Kind of startled me a bit. I am going on 70 years old and this brought back some memories. It is white with a black vinyl top, has factory ram air. It has 68,000 documented miles. I assume that he enjoyed this car more which is why the 442 only has just under 18,000 documented miles. His mom had this car serviced by a local shop to get it ready to sell.
In shop out back she has many original parts in original boxes, like carbs, starters, filters, points, distributors, Aluminum pistons, intakes, Headers, some kind of exhaust pipes the just go up in the air, short chrome, looks like they are for a dragster. Plus many engines, transmissions, wheels, tires, Everything he used in his shop. including a big red engine analyser on wheels. These may be wanted by Retro folks? There are many HEMI parts, motors and such as well. They are located in Aurora Colorado is anyone is interested.
He had other cars as well but most are old from 1927 up to 1970. I am thinking he raced cars and built Custom Hotrods.
If anyone wants any of these parts send me note, I will send you pics and a contact number. She is selling all this stuff because she is old and ready for assisted living. I told her I would tell the community on this site and others may be interested as I was with the 442 I purchased from her.
Back to my 442, The clock in intermittent and the tach now does not work, are they related somehow with the new distributor? or two separate issues?
Thanks for ready my post
Craig
May 3rd, 2018, 06:45 AM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Delta BC Canada
Posts: 3,688
The GS 350 started in 1968 and was in production through 1975.
GS 400 1966-1969. Stage 1 optional cars in 1969.
GS 455 1970-1974. Stage 1 optional cars all years.
May 3rd, 2018, 10:37 AM
#20
delete
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,807
Contact info on the Buick? I know someone who would be interested.
Re your 442 with the low miles keep it as original as possible. Otherwise, you'll be putting money into it to make it worth less.
Find a shop that can tune it to its maximum potential.
Re your 442 with the low miles keep it as original as possible. Otherwise, you'll be putting money into it to make it worth less.
Find a shop that can tune it to its maximum potential.
May 13th, 2018, 09:28 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 28
Hi all,
Thanks for your continued help on my project.
I am keeping all the original parts from my car for those that said I should keep it original.
My motor is an "F" block I think this is the letter behind the water pump. My heads are stamped with an "E", It has a Rochester 750 cfm carb, I believe the stock cam has a 4:33/4:33 lift. I have a TH400 Floor shift Automatic, 3:23 rear Gears, It has a 4 core radiator and a smaller one in front that looks like it goes with the AC? Everything is stock except for a Proform HEI that was just installed.
( The shaking I experienced when I got my car back from the shop was due to an open vacuum line they forgot to connect.
I purchased a Performer Intake manifold for the car, with it I received a O4B intake and a Torker Intake. I will use the performer. Hopefully it will help a bit. Also I am rebuilding the carb. I am looking at Headers and a new 2.5 inch stainless exhaust with crossover.
Would a cam help or even be necessary? I plan to use the car for a weekend driver, around town. Yes I love to step on the gas! This is really a fun car. If some thinks a cam would be beneficial which one? the Performer cam # 2152 has a 4:74/4:90 lift, not much a difference, seems close to stock? is it really matched to the intake? or is this marketing hype? would a different cam work better? if so what is recommended. I do want my car to idle and not to stall when I put it in gear. I am taking the water pump off to paint it, then thinking with it off I should change the timing gears and chain with a double roller. If I am going that far why not put in a better cam is what I am thinking. Really though from what othesr say, the performer cam will not make much of a difference compared to the stock cam. Anyone know? or have an opinion?
to date I have changed all the bushings, installed new springs, shocks, installed new ball joints and all the steering linkage and bearings in the axles and rear end, the car now is very tight compared to when I first brought it home. The Transmission was leaking but now the leak has stopped. I installed new valve cover gaskets, replaced all the vacuum lines, filters and such. It still runs poorly. Hoping a rebuild on the carb with fix this. Or should I replace the carb with a new one?
The maintenance records that came with the car say the speedometer stopped in 1991 which is the last time the car was driven. The owner changed the oil every 2000 miles. The car has an original less than 19,000 miles on it. The interior looks brand new except for the drivers seat.
The speedometer does not work, the cable is fine and spins while driving. (Took off the gauge to view this) Is there a place that rebuilds the speedometers?
Also the Tach/clock combo unit lacks a working clock. if you tap on the cover it works for a bit and stops again. Can these be rebuilt as well?
The oil pressure bounces, is this a short or does this gauge need work as well? Or perhaps the sending unit should be replaced.?
I have now driven the car 150 miles in heavy traffic, a traffic jam and on the open road, no overheating issues at all. In fact it seems to run cool according to the gauge.
I am new to this type of car, always wanted one as a youngster, never could really afford one. Now I have one but lack experience.
Your thoughts are so welcome.
Headers?
Intake?
New Carb or rebuild the original?
Cam?
Can the speedometer and clock be rebuilt? if so where?
definitely new exhaust is needed, so 2.5"? stainless I assume is the best option.
Thanks in advance
Craig
As soon as I get it mechanically working perfect the car is going to the paint shop.
Thanks for your continued help on my project.
I am keeping all the original parts from my car for those that said I should keep it original.
My motor is an "F" block I think this is the letter behind the water pump. My heads are stamped with an "E", It has a Rochester 750 cfm carb, I believe the stock cam has a 4:33/4:33 lift. I have a TH400 Floor shift Automatic, 3:23 rear Gears, It has a 4 core radiator and a smaller one in front that looks like it goes with the AC? Everything is stock except for a Proform HEI that was just installed.
( The shaking I experienced when I got my car back from the shop was due to an open vacuum line they forgot to connect.
I purchased a Performer Intake manifold for the car, with it I received a O4B intake and a Torker Intake. I will use the performer. Hopefully it will help a bit. Also I am rebuilding the carb. I am looking at Headers and a new 2.5 inch stainless exhaust with crossover.
Would a cam help or even be necessary? I plan to use the car for a weekend driver, around town. Yes I love to step on the gas! This is really a fun car. If some thinks a cam would be beneficial which one? the Performer cam # 2152 has a 4:74/4:90 lift, not much a difference, seems close to stock? is it really matched to the intake? or is this marketing hype? would a different cam work better? if so what is recommended. I do want my car to idle and not to stall when I put it in gear. I am taking the water pump off to paint it, then thinking with it off I should change the timing gears and chain with a double roller. If I am going that far why not put in a better cam is what I am thinking. Really though from what othesr say, the performer cam will not make much of a difference compared to the stock cam. Anyone know? or have an opinion?
to date I have changed all the bushings, installed new springs, shocks, installed new ball joints and all the steering linkage and bearings in the axles and rear end, the car now is very tight compared to when I first brought it home. The Transmission was leaking but now the leak has stopped. I installed new valve cover gaskets, replaced all the vacuum lines, filters and such. It still runs poorly. Hoping a rebuild on the carb with fix this. Or should I replace the carb with a new one?
The maintenance records that came with the car say the speedometer stopped in 1991 which is the last time the car was driven. The owner changed the oil every 2000 miles. The car has an original less than 19,000 miles on it. The interior looks brand new except for the drivers seat.
The speedometer does not work, the cable is fine and spins while driving. (Took off the gauge to view this) Is there a place that rebuilds the speedometers?
Also the Tach/clock combo unit lacks a working clock. if you tap on the cover it works for a bit and stops again. Can these be rebuilt as well?
The oil pressure bounces, is this a short or does this gauge need work as well? Or perhaps the sending unit should be replaced.?
I have now driven the car 150 miles in heavy traffic, a traffic jam and on the open road, no overheating issues at all. In fact it seems to run cool according to the gauge.
I am new to this type of car, always wanted one as a youngster, never could really afford one. Now I have one but lack experience.
Your thoughts are so welcome.
Headers?
Intake?
New Carb or rebuild the original?
Cam?
Can the speedometer and clock be rebuilt? if so where?
definitely new exhaust is needed, so 2.5"? stainless I assume is the best option.
Thanks in advance
Craig
As soon as I get it mechanically working perfect the car is going to the paint shop.
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wildwillie1981
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