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Here is what I am starting with. I am the 3rd owner. The guy I bought it from had her for 9 years, but could never get started restoring her due to health issues. The original owner was his next door neighbor growing up. The original owner replaced the vinyl in the early 80's and did a crappy job...so we have the a pillar and rear window rust as a result. The frame is solid with almost no rust as far as I can see so far. The interior is in decent shape. It's all coming apart nicely so far.
I had that same interior in my first car long ago. Sure brings back memories. I drove it daily for three full years back east and every spring had to fix the rust.
Damn salty roads.
Looks like you have the typical rust problems, but nothing that can't be fixed.
Your roof is the worst area as I'm certain theres more rust under the supports you can't see. Get a donor roof and replace yours if you can.
Actually the bucket seats were standard on the Supreme. The console was an option though. That's why you see a lot of Cutlass Supremes with buckets and a column shift.
I have some nice A pillars on parts cars here in Indianapolis that I can cut out for you. I do not have any Supreme parts cars right now.
What are you asking for that a-pillar? Will be ready for it shortly. I'm taking the windshield out this morning to get the full picture of the damage. Fortunately, the rust doesn't appear to have spread too far. The pillar seems sound structurally. Likely just needs patched.
I have the interior completely out of the car. I have some light surface rust on the floorboards. No holes and very solid. It is concentrated in the front seat footwells. I will sand it all down and remove all the rust. What is the best way to treat this area? Self-etching primer and paint? POR15? I don't care about looks since it will be hidden under the carpet. I just want to be sure to keep the rust at bay. Suggestions?
I have no issue with POR15, but would recommend to use the POR metal prep and primer as well. Think most folks problems come because they start mixing products especially on the low end where folks just buy everything from a Lowes or Home Depot and end up with a rustoleum primer, valspar rattle can and a krylon clear rattle cans. And yeeeees, speaking from my past as thats exactly what I did on an old POS I had. Flaked off within months despite the prep actually being decent. Redid with single line of products, lasted for 2 years till sold with no issue.
Let me check this with, I am a newbie, I am not a pro by any measure, and wait for much smarter opinions from others.
Looking forward to seeing the after pics and hope you stick with the orange!
I have started doing some body work. I am right now focusing on the sail panels and thhe rear window channel. I have the sail panels taken down to bare metal. Being that the car is inside my garage, is there something I should do to keep them from rusting or will they be OK for the time being?
OK. It's been a while since I've posted. I have the body off the frame and am working on disassembling the front suspension. What is the best method to remove the front springs? Keep in mind that the body, engine, etc. are no longer there to provide weight while unloading the springs. Any recommendations on a good spring compressor?
Splitting time between the body and engine. I need to update some pics. I have replaced the upper cowl and am in the process of repairing the windshield channel. I have my 455 block torn completely down as well.
455 is a good thing! Cost to rebuild a 350 Olds is about the same$$$. Are you thinking about painting the car orange again? My cutlass supreme was changed from flame orange to silver paint.
Windshield channel patch mocked up. New cowl top already in place. Windshield channel glued and tacked in place. Next up...the rusty A-pillar. 455 block stripped down. New Wiseco +15.0cc pistons! The nodular crank, new H-beam rods, and the pistons are off being balanced!
You are doing great taking on the body work. Where did you get your replacement sheetmetal? how was the fit?
I don't recall where I bought the sheet metal from. There are multiple options online. The fit was good with the A-pillar, the deck fill panel was decent. It required some minor tweaking. All the work on the sail panels was done from scratch. No panels exist for those.
Work update. Driver side rear quarter arch Driver side front quarter arch Patched driver side front quarter arch. Sheet metal from the rear of the wheel arch from right front fender Patch cut for driver side rear quarter arch. Sheet metal from front of the right fender. Patched driver side rear quarter arch. Sheet metal from front of the right fender.
Just found your thread. Very nice work. I had heard that it was possible to use parts from opposite fenders to repair others. I see you have done it. Excellent!!
Anyone ever use the Raptor bedliner to coat the underside? Looking to put it on with a slight texture and as thin as possible while still providing protection. Any tips or suggestions?
Underside coated with a fine coat of Raptor Liner. Firewall closed up. Will be going with an aftermarket AC. Raptor Liner inside trunk. Recoated with epoxy. Coated with Slicksand. Glazing low spots with filler where needed....not many areas. Sanded flat with 180. Will be recoating and blocking with 400 and 600 soon.
What am I doing wrong here? The lower bracket for the alternator is sticking out further than the top bracket. All the brackets, pulleys, etc. came off the 350 that was originally in the car.
Does the fact that the BB is taller than the SB come into play here? If so, can I just put a spacer between the alternator mount and the lower steering pump bracket? If I disconnect that and swing the alt bracket in line it looks like there is 1" gap.
Last edited by ajr2820; October 27th, 2023 at 12:54 PM.
August 13th, 2017, 05:39 AM
