67Olds442X2

Just another rebuild, my fourth engine but now more driveline and suspension stuff. Told my wife this should complete everything. Yeah right.
A few engine changes, the tunnel ram is gone, going with Victor (mini TR I guess), Holley Ultra XP 950, Harland Sharp #5017 rockers and Lunati solid cam (255/263, .576/.593 (.612/.630 with rockers), LSA 108. Not looking for something to drive on the street, only to the local shows and the track on midnight madness at MIR. The short block consists of Eagle "H" beam rods and Probe pistons. Around 11.9 to 1, I use Cam 2. The heads will be worked over.

Transmission will be overhauled and a manual valve body installed. Will run a 3,000 - 3,500 rpm converter.

My "O" rear will finally be "Posi" with 3.90 gears. New axle shafts from Supercars Unlimited along with an aluminum cover.

Got new rear controls arms, Lakewood ladder bars, and disc brakes for the rear.

Got new carpet and also which probably doesn't make sense, I got two 10" woofers in the trunk, 6x9's in the rear package tray and 6 1/2" in the kick panels. All Infinity Kappa speakers.

I'm just going all out this time. I'm going to tackle all the work. Haven't done a rear end since auto mechanic school back in 1979.

oldcutlass

Wow...

steverw

Very nice! What brand are your front upper and lower control arms?b And is that a 67 E block 400?

67Olds442X2

The front arms are Summit brand. Seem to be real solid. The block is a 76' 455.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-770251

don71

Look forward to your progress and watching your dream come true.

67Olds442X2

List of parts;

Moog front springs
QA1 stocker shocks
Right Stuff front disc brake kit, rear brake will be same
Lares steering gear with Moog tie rod ends etc.
Hughes transmission valve body and kit.
Standard gear differential
Richmond gears
UMI performance rear control arms.
Axles from Supercars Unlimited.
Lunati and Harland Sharp Cam/Rockers (still up in the air on cam, solid tappet or roller)
Have a RobbMC sending unit with -8AN fittings and Mr. Gasket electric pump.

cutlassefi

I'd do a solid roller with that much compression.
Jmo.

67Olds442X2

Thanks. My dream may become a nightmare when my wife finds out what I spent or borrowed. I'll just tell her it's much cheaper than buying a new muscle car.

67Olds442X2

Making some headway. Able to work all day. Most times my Parkinson's has its ways and just lets me pretend I'm working. Weird, one minute your turning a wrench and the next minute you can't pick one up.
More pictures and parts.
Decided on a solid cam from Lunati not roller though, not in the budget if you can believe. Want that old school sound and come to think of it, I don't remember what that sound was. Did hear a 70' Chevelle with an LS6 back in 78' which I believe was a solid cam motor, sounded cool.

The cam 255/263 @ .050 .576/.593 (.612/.630 with the #5017 Harland Sharp).

Oldsragger

Eyecandy

RetroRanger

Wow that's a lot of parts! �� I can't buy that much stuff in advance, I forget what I've got an then buy it again�� Looks like it's gonna be awesome

67Olds442X2

Got the front suspension installed along with the disc brakes. Bought a master cylinder and waiting on a "P" valve. The only beef with the install is the QA1 shock mounts had to be trimmed to fit in the lower control arm. I think it is more of a control arm issue (Summit brand). If I had gotten the QA versions they would have fit. I can't wait to feel the steering with the new quick ratio box and linkages. I was chasing the steering wheel before with so much play.
Rear end adapter has come in handy that is mounted to my engine stand. Once I get the process down for the rebuild I can put it back together. I have a press but not many adapters for it.

Olds442redberet

Cool!

67Olds442X2

Well I keep pulling it apart. Got new firewall pad to install and want to clean everything up so pulled dash, wires behind are a mess. Changing the weatherstripping also still have original stuff which falls apart if you touch it. Turning into a resto-mod of sorts.

67Olds442X2

Some progress. No-hop bars are a PITA. I would say they fit terrible. I had to modify them by grinding and cutting and then drill through the webbing not worth it. Should have gotten ladder bars. I need to get adjustable upper arms now.

oldcutlass

Well you've taken a serious bite out of it. Looking good, I'm really enjoying your mods.

67Olds442X2

Thanks.

67Olds442X2

Pictures some out of order. Have a 1994 corvette also, new throttle body for it. The two close-ups of the rear brakes have me wondering. Rotor is feeler gauge close to the caliper pins.

Was going to remove the heater/blower box then decided to replace the core and keep it all intact.

I have the No-Hop / anti-hop bars on but don't have adjustable upper arms Yet. Wish I knew beforehand. The pinion angle has changed and wondering would it run as is? I know the purpose of the bars is to change the angle and give the tires some bite, plus keep the rear from flexing but is it more important to add the adjustable arms and put the angle back to normal?

I wanted to see how the car sits on the new suspension so I put the tires on and for the most part looks okay. For some reason the drivers side rear is 1/2"-1" higher. Also the pinion angle looks to be almost nothing. I may just remove the bars and put ladder bars on.

67Olds442X2

Cleaned up the underside and using pi** cans to give it a color. Not correct but giving it some protection.
Transmission apart and it looks like the "output carrier assembly" has been running hot. Also the filter had come loose from the valve body. Got a complete rebuild kit along with a new manual valve body to install.
Removed the anti-hop bars I had on the rear and ordered ladder bars instead. Need to finish painting under the car then bend new brake lines, install fuel hose etc. Will be running -8an hose in place of the lines currently installed.

67Olds442X2

I may be crazy but I've decided to separate the body from the frame and do a complete overhaul. I have no rust issues or panels that need replacing I just figured by removing the body I can do a better job with the frame and underside to make the car last many years. I may try to paint the car also, the last paint job left many runs and things were painted that shouldn't have been. I will keep the original color, Cameo Ivory. I've got it torn apart this far might as well go all the way.




I am crazy, body will stay on. Body on overhaul.

67Olds442X2

Ladder bars installed. Looks like it's leaning to one side but the way I took the picture is causing that.

oldcutlass

I've been toying with ladder bars for that old school touch.

67Olds442X2

Wasn't planning on redoing the short block but glad I pulled it apart. I thought water was getting into the cylinders. A couple pistons had the top ring tight in the groove. Time to start fresh with a different block. This block was decked to the limit when I got it and have had problems since lining up things. Got a virgin 70' block to use. I've spent a ton of money on other stuff and basically don't have any left for the engine. Might be awhile.

Funny but I jumped the gun once again. The block has been sitting idle for awhile but still wouldn't have been good to put it back together. I need a fresh start.

mfgusa

Impressive. Lots of Olds parts is refreshing to see in a build such as this.

When you do get some money have you considered girdling the bottom end for some insurance?

67Olds442X2

Hadn't thought much about a girdle. Something to think about if I decide to run it at the track more often. I did go crazy on the parts and I did use "borrowed" money. I need to borrow some more

67Olds442X2

I've been using the same block for all my builds. The dual quad setup was the first that had that crappy blue color, don't know what I was thinking. Spun a bearing then had a valve guide come loose using "E" iron heads that I bought with the block. Then the tunnel ram, edelbrock heads , Torker and now this rebuild.
Problem is that I bought the block, heads and rotating assy and have been trying to fit my intakes to it. This block had been decked so much and the iron heads had been milled on the intake side and exhaust side to make things fit. An unmodified intake was never going to work and I'm finally realizing the fact that this block has been haunting me and I need a fresh start. Had I brought the block to a machine shop and had everything matched and checked, he probably would have told me it was junk. I've been taking shortcuts I guess skipping the machinist buy checking clearances, measurements etc. thinking all was good. Well this time everything goes to the shop, I'll still assemble it though.
Oh yeah, I need to borrow some more money

mfgusa

We'll never learn anything if we don't try to do some things ourselves and see if mister OE is really up to the challenge. That's how hot rodding started.


Could you feel an increase in HP from the dual quad, or was it more for looks? The tunnel ram must have made quite a difference.

67Olds442X2

The dual quad and for that matter the TR was for looks. To be honest I'll say none of my builds ran well. Kinda like back in high school during the 70's putting an engine together hoping it will stay together. Both setups delivered too much fuel. The TR was difficult to tune, looked cool but that's about it. Got my fingers crossed this time.

67Olds442X2

Pics of rings, bearing etc. Don't know if they got this way from sitting or what. Maybe condensation? Had to use PB blaster on two pistons.