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Think its time to do a build thread. For me, so i can later read what ive done and when, and for some of you who might be interested.
The shell will be 76' Cutlass S 442, which was shipped from Arizona to Finland last year, and this year i registered it to Finnish licence plates.
After driving it a year and over 4000 miles, i pretty much know what i want.
Not an drag-racer, nor not an car used to drive just on the city on saturday-nights or to the shows.
It will be a mess of compromises, intented for long day-trips with reliability, and somewhat mpg, in mind. A car you like to travel with. Still reaching its hand to the past on transmission choice, and engine build.
Already did travel this summer from Finland to Lithuania and back, and me and my wifey both liked it. More than doing it with some ordinary car, like our Volvo S80.
So far, ive changed every door-seal on the car, trunk-seal and bonnets sound-dampening mat. New windshield-washer pump ( electric copy of the original), various interior parts, fixed heater, bought new rims n' tires ( tires will get changed, even they look cool, ive never had tires with so crap traction and tire-noise). There might be something else, too.
Lately i received "new" rear-end gears and Eaton TruTrac + all assembly parts and axle-bearings + seals from Monzaz. This is on the list to do at this winter with TH350 rebuild. Which is leaking like a sieve.
Engine-wise it will be sporting SMW 350 stroked and bored to 374cui. Original 8-headed 350 will be restored at some point. I bought last year a core-engine for my build, cleaned and painted this year. "Only" waiting for parts to complete it Painted with Pontiac-engine enamel
Build-up for this motor has been done by going through EVERY thread on here and ROP related to engines, BBO's or SBO's, in a span of a full year, and writing down every useful, relatively useful, even non-useful proven fact, opinions, ideas and so-on to the notebook, with dyno-papers and build-ups. From there i build up my engine to the paper.
Being build as GT, it will have to be pump-gas friendly, so no radical build-ups, but some good ideas and "tricks" found By going through every single thread.
About transmission. Why choose TH350 over those OD-transmissions? Because, where it will be build. Most usual speed-limits on Europe, where i spend 90% time i drive my car, are 50mph and 75mph. 50% difference. Difference between 2nd and 3rd gear ratio on TH350? ~50%.. Figure out rest..
This is also on the other hand giving some exemptions on engine-build compared to usual street-builds.
Interior? Will remain as original as possible. Front-seats need re-upholstering, and dash is cracked so that will need to get swapped too, to colour-correct 100% non-cracked unit i already have.
Exterior-wise re-painting is on the list, but not on the top. Wheels btw are Cragar Keystone Klassics, 15x7 up front and 15x8 at rear.
I think this pretty much sums up what is intented. I have no schedules to do this, but if i had to quess, about 2 years from now on. And car will be driven every season, and worked at winter.
Few pics how it sits currently to end this proloque.
Well-> Two days work left, then approx. ~5 month government paid winter vacation. Could life be better?
Drove it to winter-storage few weeks ago, since weather turned to bad, and i had no needs to drive it anymore this season. Its messy Place, but its warm, and keeps rain outside. Ticks all the boxes. And plenty of space around.
Today i installed my baby. There she is:
Next thing to do, when work ends, is to do some repairs at my house, and then its time to remove the whole rear, get it sandblasted and painted, and install with new goodies underneath the car. After that, its TH350's turn.
Well, that have to wait for next summer. Reason being, i dont actually have pictures around driving our country around with my car. Simple reason being, for me those are normal views, and nothing exciting.
Sorry to disappoint. Ill promise to do better next year!
Thats really about only other picture of my car somewhere. Showing the another project, main-building of our estate. Build in 49' from wood, and you can believe that old wooden house requires constant caring. Theres also 70m2 yard-building containing sauna and workshop, build at 49' too.
Just a little special knowledge; the house you see at picture, is called ( turned straight from finnish to england) "battlefront soldier house". It received its name since that housetype was chosen to be the type to build around our country to give a place to live for people who lost their houses and lands at WW2. After WW2, 11% of our population were homeless, so demand for houses was huge. Well, enough of history and offtopic.
For the rarity, i havent seen any other 73-77 A-body at flesh here in Finland. There are occasionally for sale 73-77 Chevys, and for ONCE there was museum-registered 77 Cutlass Supreme for sale, but mostly i think these are unexistant there.
That's cool but can I ask what you do for a living (if its not too personal)?
Its not an secret. I drive an asphalt paver, and while changing work-sites, i move all machines from point A to point B with 18-wheeler flatbed.
Trick is, summer being so short at Finland, we dont have much time to do work. Theres snow currently at the ground already, and earth is frozen. So you cant do asphalt anymore. And season starts again, depending on weathers, somewhere between march-may.
While im unemployed, our union ( = from governments pocket = from tax-payers pocket) pays us unemployment benefits(?), which on the other hand are tied to how much did we earn at past season.
Short time to build and fix the roads etc, results in really long days at work ( my best being 163hrs to 8 days, this seasons best was 14x hours for 9 days) = alot of income on short period of time.
And at the end, when we sum this all up, i get paid more per day for sitting at home by our union, than i did earn per day when i was a car-mechanic 5yrs back and being at work.
But its not that black-and white, for that short period of time, like this years 7 months we were working, we did ALOT more work-hours than normal guy does on whole year doing 8hr per day.
Were counted as speciality-workers here.
Last edited by Inline; November 3rd, 2016 at 11:06 AM.
Thanks for sharing. I bet you can't wait for the spring so you can cruise around with the windows down. In the mean time, get to work on those winter projects!
Really neat car, those '73 and later Colonnade Cutlass models are really growing on me!
One of the big downside of GM cars of that era was the crappy interior plastic moldings, like door panels and B post covers. I had a '76 Starfire and now a '79 Electra (and still have an Olds of course, a '58 Super 88) and the interior hard plastic just disintegrates from the sun and heat, the B pillar covers in my Electra (same as Olds 98) are like powder! Are yours in good shape, being a hot climate AZ car? I can't figure out how to fix them and good useable pieces seem impossible to find in junkyards!
Your house has a cool history!
My ancestors are in Sweden, I don't know if they built soldiers houses like that!
RAnderson in NY
Are yours in good shape, being a hot climate AZ car? I can't figure out how to fix them and good useable pieces seem impossible to find in junkyards!
The lower B pillar covers in my 71 98 were sun faded and damaged. I used a medium grit sandpaper (2220-320) and sanded them before painting them with plastic paint. They turned out great!
Nice pic of your house and car. Great story behind it. I'm really looking forward to following along in your restoration when I get time.
Your going to really like those new gears the first time out.
Be sure to add your car to the 73-77 year car thread that Oldcutlass stickied for us guys.
Cheers
Eric
Went to the garage first time. Was so wet weather, been for days, that i havent bothered to repair our bedroom/ clothroom until it freezes again. Its on a good pace anyways.
Hauled all tools there, and forgot alot, but got pretty far.
Mint body, as you can see. No welding required. Every bolt opened too wíthout any force. Also discovered shockingly why my rear started to vibrate just before i drove it to winter storage. Both u-clamps holding the drive-shaft to rear had the other bolt loose Just at a time to stop the driving season.
Then i got a little surprise. Actually, im feeling very lucky myself?
Unbolted this and that, and then was going to remove c-clips, so i can pull axles off and hook backing-plates with all the brake-parts to the frame, so i could dodge alot of unnecessary work.
Well, long story short, i have what repair-manual states as "type O or B 8 1/2 rear" ( mine is "type O" according to same book ( wonder if that "O" simply means Oldsmobile )), with bolt-in flanges holding the axle shafts in place. Good luck. Only not-so-good luck is that i already have wheel-bearings for c-clip axles, and i could almost bet they are different. Need to search first tho, and its just minor expense if i have to get new ones, since i can always sell what i have now.
Left it to this state, rear attached only with upper control-arms, and backing-plates needing hooking to frame to get them out of way. Since i hadnt anything at hand to make those hooks. That was one of the things that i forgot. Another was wood to make a rack to hold the rear so i can clean and paint it.
Oh well, to the next week. Propably completing rear way before december, so i can take my gearbox down and tinker with it at Christmas. Im sure wifey understands when i disassemble it at our livingroom
E: Forgot to at, indeed i ordered full rebuild kit with bushes and thrust washers etc to my TH350, with added flavours. Should be here in a week, max two.
Last edited by Inline; November 18th, 2016 at 07:37 AM.
Nice Cutlass! I always liked the ones from that era. Mom had a '74 model when they came out, cream with an off-white interior. It was a Supreme with the little opera windows, landau roof and a bench front seat. I went to visit my parents over Thanksgiving and there was a nice burgundy '74 or '75 Cutlass Supreme parked right below their apartment. It was in beautiful shape, considering its age. The paint was slightly faded and had a few parking lot dings but the interior was absolutely pristine--bucket seats and center console. It's funny, I see more '68-'72 Cutlasses on the road around here than I do the '73-'77 models, yet the mid '70s was when the Cutlass was the number one selling car in America. I guess cars from the post-muscle car era haven't yet caught on with collectors.
Well, the current situation where i left it ~2 weeks ago is this:
Housing cleaned and painted. Then, since my other axle wasnt at best shape, i ended up ordering new axles too. On the way. Meanwhile i honed setup-bearing to slip loosely on pinion, and completed my bedroom/clothroom rebuilding. Looking to continue at car again now thats completed. Sometimes you just have to pleasure your fiancee too to get some slack..
Also got a package worth of small treasure:
Last edited by Inline; December 5th, 2016 at 12:24 PM.
After all the setting up of gears, then the show with pinion nut, i thought ill go make me happy and put the rear under my car before christmas; promised to fiancee ill go just this one time this year there, then ill spend the holidays with her.
Last final check that pattern was "spot on" with the assembly bearing ( used setup-bearing which i honed inside to be snug fit), it turned out great ( i already earlier tested that both bearings give same pattern to be sure there were no manufacturing tolerances out), way before i started to chase the pattern.
Well, clean clean clean everything one last time, assembly everything up with crush sleeve, new pinion nut, take the slack out against crush-sleeve.. Bang, ratchet gives up. Well, i admit i used quite a long rod with it. Drive 40 mins back and forth to buy a new ratchet, and long flex-handle. Back to garage.
Start to turn it with the new flex-handle.. Geez, i got it started! Oh wait, it turns easily?? Yes. Stripped pinion threads. And when disassembled, crush sleeve hasnt started to collapse.
Dont know what went wrong, threads were clean, pinion nut was new.. Maybe just too many back and forth installs on used pinion?
The amount of frustration what strikes you after all the work youve done, numerous gear settings etc. When the finish line is one meter away.. And i was just going to get me happy christmas spirit by getting that rear under my car..
Losses, thank god, were minimal. Just need to get new gears and new pinion nut.
Geez. Lets look again after month or two.. Thats the feeling atm anyways.. Still have minimum of 3 1/2 months to driving season so no hurry..
For now? Beer time and sauna.... Alot of both..
Last edited by Inline; December 21st, 2016 at 01:13 AM.
Frustration always strikes when working with Older cars EH! I took the easy way out and had a shop do my posi and gears. The good is, you get the enjoyment and satisfaction of doing it yourself.
I hope things go a little smoother once you finish the rear and start on your trans upgrades.
I bet that sauna and cold beer really puts the frustration to rest haha.
Hey open that big box up and show us some pics of the contents damit"
Put-er-ther ,
I'm following along, nice work!!
Cheers
Eric
Enjoyment was far-away yesterday- but i quess life wins again Beer and sauna did certainly help at it.
Already ordered new 3:42 gears. Didnt take month or two apparently. Or, im ordering, just waiting them to answer me.
Motive Orange Box gears. Another alternative that can be found up there are Yukon's, but the shop selling them is on my personal boycott
Just "dont have time" to wait international shippings again. Id rather get them to my hands fast this time, even they end up costing a bit more.
Next time goes anyways alot smoother, when i already have the shim-stacks build up to my carrier which isnt changing, and good starting point to pinion depth from current gears.
Thats the transtar-package content:
Alot of stuff. But it all makes thankfully sense. Im going to source bushing installation to trans-shop. I dont have correct size bushing-drivers to TH350 sizes, and buying them for just this one assembly dont make any sense.
EDIT: Oh well, motive-gear seller wasnt apparently interested to contact me even they should have been open. So after all ( going back to struggle i had when i started this whole nonsence) i ended up with Yukon 3.23:1 gears. I get them at tuesday. Even i boycotted them. Too good offer to pass. I get those cheaper from them than i could get them ordered from anywhere else, but for 3.42 i would save up to 70$ after all taxes if id buy them from US.
Interesting to see is it easier to read a pattern from new gears, which i suppose is.
"Given" that second change i did go to 3.23 due to figuring it last time, when i ended up to 3.42 when too good deal came up.
Its just plain impossible to get best of both worlds on street car with 1:1 final ratio. And im pretty much set to th350 for "nostalgia".
If i could somehow explain what im trying to achieve, is relatively "peppy" car which i can use everywhere, and without sacrifing too much to side or another. But dont want to do it pro-touring style by utilising latest innovations.
Last time i figured that 3.42's are really the borderline to enjoy the car at everyday usage, so this time i p*ssied and did go one step backwards.
Merry Christmas to everyone!
Last edited by Inline; December 23rd, 2016 at 06:54 AM.
I'm sure that put a smile on your fiance's face haha. She must be very understanding with you being a car guy. My 76 has been on a diet from new parts for a while now, I'm hoping to get a nice box under the tree from Summit this year.
You really taking your 76 to a whole new level, It will be well worth it once you hit the fun pedal.
I myself like lots of pics, so thanks for posting and continue to keep us 73-77 guys updated on how the changes made a difference .
Cheers,
Merry Christmas to you yours, and everyone !!
Eric
3.23 gears are a good compromise choice for your intended use. Without an OD trans cruiseing at 75mph Will be more be more pleasant than with 3.42 gears.
Another delay. Now i need to figure out new car before i can even get to garage.
At 50mph road, facing, caravan-trailer lost traction, and i just had enough reaction time to start pull out of road. Now i dont have a car.. No personal injuries. Tho it was quite a hit, the back-corner managed to hit me. Next its time to fight with insurance Company for how much they pay for my car..
So, it might take a while until im back at my Cutlass again. For sure not on this year anymore.
Good to hear you are safe with no injuries. Do you think they will write the car off rather than replacing the fender and door?
You'll have to visit the Cutlass just to let er' know you haven't abandoned er' haha.
I hope things work out with the insurance.
Cheers
Eric
I put 3:42 gears in my 76 with a rebuilt TH350 , my speedo is off but I think Im around 2750 at 60mph with 28" tires from what I see on my tach.
I think you will be just as happy with the 3:23 gears.
Good to hear you are safe with no injuries. Do you think they will write the car off rather than replacing the fender and door?
You'll have to visit the Cutlass just to let er' know you haven't abandoned er' haha.
I hope things work out with the insurance.
Cheers
Eric
Pictures dont tell everything. Both doors from drivers side, front- and rearbumber, hood, drivers side mirror, and behind front wing where a-pillar raises, its bend. Those are just exterior damages. No idea whats happened to front-end parts. Atleast it kept funny noise driving over bump.
And they already called that they are currently running 7k$ for repair damages, and they havent even counted all yet.
Went to buy-out, currently looking new car.
Shame the monies are off of my Cutlass, since im going to buy a bit better now when i have to change car. Would be waste of money to buy equal car, ill invest a bit of my own money to get newer and station wagon this time.
The main thing is your OK and can work on your Olds another day., I'm sure it was scary but could have been much worse, Air bags deploying could have injured you badly. I've seen some people with air bag injuries,not a nice site.
Don't forget to post a few pics of you new station wagon if you happen to purchase one. We all like station wagons here!!
Come back to visit us even if your cutlass plans are on hold, we will miss you if you don't !!
Cheers
Eric
Been quiet. Lost a motivation totally due to many things falling apart.
Wasnt even funny anymore. Good thing was/is, it only requires money to fix my problems.
Bought a new car, Honda Accord stw, def nowhere near the quality of Volvo, but i hadnt money to buy what i would had wanted, did want to atleast buy newer car if i anyways had to change it, and didnt want to take any loan for a car, so fiancee kinda decided it. Next car will be for sure again Volvo, Jaguar or M-B.
Got my axles from customs. Dont have old ones at handy, but i think i might have a problem with new studs. My Cragars are pretty thick on "installation-flange", if my memory serves me correct, so need to measure how much i got threads attached when rim is on. I think im good to go, but better safe than sorry.
And at last, bought new gears, Yukon 3.23's, they kept their promise ( noone selling the Motives still hasnt contacted me back to this day. I quess their business is running good?). Got them close to what you pay for them at the states, and here we have to pay all kind of taxes and shipments etc. Had to be some ware surplus. But didnt buy ring-gear bolts from them.. On order. They wanted 110$ for them. 10 bolts!!!!! ARP's were the only ones they have. God.
I think that in time i receive my new ring-gear bolts i might even have build my motivation back up.
Also i might leave the trans to next winter, ive already burned loads of uncounted $, due to broken pinion, junked car, bad axle-shaft..
I fear / am almost sure, that trans is going to require also something unforeseen, and them im at risk to not get it on wheels when the summer again comes, since im not going to loan money to build my car. And im not going to miss a day of our ~5 month driving season due to that. But will see how everything turns up.
And this ones for you, Eric:
Its a POS compared to Volvo, but will do for now.
Last edited by Inline; January 9th, 2017 at 03:28 AM.
I defiantly know the costs associated when buying parts, it doesn't take long to burn through a few grand easy lol. At least you are doing your own work that's awesome. I payed to have most of my work done, another few grand gone ther haha.
Thanks for posting the new pictures, I like to see nice new shinny parts, and for a 76 cutlass!! I put my 76 on a diet this winter.
I'm enjoying your thread, I'ma' keepin' follown' !!
Well, long time no see. I decided its mentally un-inspiring to report all the disasters, so i made a decision to just update from successes, so it looks to go smooth..
Current situation:
Rear installed. Just need to add oil to rear, attach shock-absorbers and sway-bar + of course drums and wheels.
And i have a question in hope that somebody who has one of these cars, have knowledge.
Should rear springs have rubber-pads on both ends or not? Service manual dont say anything about it, and no help from illustrations either.
I had only on lower end.
And question number 2, where do i get those new rubber pads? Tried few sites, they either didnt have them, or i didnt find them cause i dont have any clue about their real name.. Mine are rotten away. Missed that when disassembling, since they were full of crud. Cleaned them now to assemble them, and found they are rotten.
EDIT: No wonder i didnt find them By looking rubber pads when they are called coil spring seats/ insulators..
They sell them mostly in package of two, so i might believe its just one insulator per side, but can someone confirm? Tho, common sense suggest you should have insulators on both ends of spring..
On the offtopic, through the winter ive learned, that driving 20-25mins per way to middle of nowhere without any shop closer than that same 20-25mins, nor nothing else, gets old pretty quick.. Need to get that garage to my yard as soon as possible. Im well behind from my "well-planned" schedule which called for the rear to be ready before 2017. Cause of that, and due to another thing written later, i dont bother to take the gearbox down anymore this winter. Im behind cause of all the disasters + of course my lazyness to drive there to get disappointed Ill think ill spend rest of the time to clean everything, grease everything, and check everything prior to summer.
And other thing is, that snow is currently melting quick, and showing asfalt, so work may continue soon. Then i also went to change employeer, and soon my situation might be that i leave to work on sunday-evening/monday-morning, and come back to home for friday evening. So no chance that i would spend my really limited free-time by tinkering with my car. Therefore, if something would need tinkering on summer-time, i think i just drive it to someone and say im gonna come next saturday to get it back, fix it before. So i can just enjoy on driving it.
Happy spring-waiting for everyone!
Last edited by Inline; February 16th, 2017 at 06:16 AM.
When my rear coils were removed in my 76 supreme, it had rubber insulators on the top and bottom. Now the shop that put my new coils in etc, mentioned ther was no need to replace them since the new springs had coating on them. I was surprised they were not needed with the new springs, so far no creaking noises with the new coated springs. So my 76 initially had them on top and bottom but now nothing.
I hope this helps,
Eric
What would i say? Sh*t journey, but managed to walk all the way to the end
Next, tach install ( kinda re-install.. car had an 5" Equus when i bought it.. junked that.. Now 3 3/8 or something Autometer, i left the wiring there under dash) and preventative maintenance for season 2017.
Starting meeting for work at start of next month, so soon no time to work with a car apart from necessary fixes.
Last edited by Inline; March 3rd, 2017 at 05:42 AM.
The rear was a big job to take on, Happy to hear you hung with it to the end. I gave up on mine before my parts were delivered haha. But it cost me big lol.
Awesome job!!
All the best with the new work season starting up, work safe and enjoy the summer. Take a pic of your new Tach once its installed.
I drilled a hole in my dash and ran mine to the right of my steering wheel , wire running through the vent. I'd like to see where you mount yours.
Cheers
Eric
Last edited by 76olds; March 3rd, 2017 at 05:52 AM.
Reason: Tach position
Well, heres for you. Was bored today and went to garage. Glad i did.
First off, i had to remove ALL of American Joe's wirings which i had left under dash after further investigation. This, for example, was the old signal wire from HEI to tach. 3 pieces, two colours, and crappy connectors to top it off.
Rest of the wiring was same "quality". One of the things i hate most, when people do electric work and cant for gods sake do it proper way
I didnt have heart to drill holes to my car. I used .. hmm.. how would i describe.. those are kinda close to cable ties, and are made from rust-free steel.
And rubber-mat under the gauge-pod to give a) grip to gauge-pod so it wont move, and b) without some collapsible material, you wouldnt get those "cable-ties" tight enough so they would hold that on place. I assure you, that isnt moving anywhere from where it sits. I tried. Signal lever is nicely between ties and wont touch them.
Not the neatest installation, but that was where i def. wanted it so i can use it as speedo ( easy to see due to needle colour without taking your eye from the road).
Unlike the American Joe, i did all the wiring properly.
Last edited by Inline; March 10th, 2017 at 06:59 AM.
That's where most guys put them, I just had to be different. I like that steering wheel, and an Autometer Tach, I looks really cool !! Thanks for posting the pics !!
Its "summer" again, with temps reaching over 50F every now and then, and almost all snow melted. Cant miss a day here to drive your Olds.
So, was nervous times to drive first 15 miles from garage to own house due to complete rear-end overhaul. Seems like it was ( thank god) succesfull. At first there were some whine coming from drive, but as ive been driving in the new gears gently, 50 miles so far, the noise seems to tune down more and more. And it wasnt even bad to start for, didnt bother at all but you could hear it with radio and heater-fan turned off. No parts have fallen off so far, thats positive too.
So far, even with driving gently, that new ratio feels awesome. Car feels alot lighter with them, and moves from stop-lights without an effort, and comes with reverse up to our yard without touching gas-pedal, unlike with old 2.41's. Cant wait to get them driven in.
To clarify to someone reading this every now and then, 3.23's in now.
All in all, i feel like it was money well spend, even considering all set-backs.
Not alot is going to happen this summer, gonna fix my house this year when i have time from work, and drive my Cutlass every now and then.
Well, automatic gearbox overhaul at some point is needed. Then at winter, i really hope i calculated right last summer and paid enough over-taxes that those would pay the re-painting of the car. I dont have space nor skills for that, so im gonna just go through my wallet with it. 4k$ should do.
Next monday is time for yearly inspection ( have to cover my there-illegal side-markers with some Summit stickers during that), then its going see one wedding-duty, and trip to somewhere Europe.
Have a nice summer everyone, and thanks for following along.
And special thanks to 76olds for few small but precious parts for me.
Last edited by Inline; March 31st, 2017 at 02:09 AM.
Passed inspection with second try. Rear-brakes were too far off from each other braking-power wise. No other points of notice on inspection. Oh yeah, transmission oil leak..
Just as my own notice, rear brakes are pretty insensible to adjust now with true-trac, since it requires "that" much force already to turn the drums even whole rear jacked up, making noticing when brake-shoes start to drag hard(er). Anyways, second try they were almost perfect.
Drivers-side opera-window developed a leak to trunk. Disassembled interior plastics. They were PITA to remove at one piece.
Half of the lower portion of opera-window was leaking. Now im waiting strip-caulk to re-seal the opera-window. No rust-issues there which was positive side, as always.
Meanwhile i did my trunk ready. Extinguisher is bolted to already-available holes so nothing was needed to drill, and i secured it in top of that with two strong zip-ties, so that in case of crash it wont fly off. Wont drive an old car without an even small extinguisher, in case of some old hose or seal breaks and car catches fire, id be damned if i didnt have something to even try extinguish it.
Im pretty satisfied of my trunk now.
Have driven gears in some more, now noiseless. Still 300 miles to go.
Oh yeah, and brand new spare-tire. If i need to use it i dont want it to blow right away.
Last edited by Inline; April 9th, 2017 at 10:45 AM.
October 8th, 2016, 07:50 AM
Painted with Pontiac-engine enamel 
Just at a time to stop the driving season.
)), with bolt-in flanges holding the axle shafts in place. Good luck. Only not-so-good luck is that i already have wheel-bearings for c-clip axles, and i could almost bet they are different. Need to search first tho, and its just minor expense if i have to get new ones, since i can always sell what i have now.
