76' Cutlass Gran Turismo - Page 3 - ClassicOldsmobile.com

76' Cutlass Gran Turismo

Old August 27th, 2018, 06:57 PM
  #81  
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My kids are in their early 20's and late teens so I don't have to worry about anchoring a rear facing infant seat.
That looks like some good engineering on your part to make the infant seat safe. Better than drilling a hole under the back seat for a front strap I guess.
What were the engineers thinking when they made these cars, most of us survived I suppose.
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Old August 27th, 2018, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 76olds View Post
My kids are in their early 20's and late teens so I don't have to worry about anchoring a rear facing infant seat.
That looks like some good engineering on your part to make the infant seat safe. Better than drilling a hole under the back seat for a front strap I guess.
What were the engineers thinking when they made these cars, most of us survived I suppose.
Yeah, it seems like kids are a whole lot more breakable now than they used to be.
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Old September 15th, 2018, 09:12 AM
  #83  
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How to use "enough" money to iron heads begins.. Id almost bet they are ready before my short-block is machined..

Edit: Took few more pictures and thought to rather just edit this post. I did as much to heads, that i drove all high-spots down from combustion chamber and radiused oil-paths out of heads. Rest is up to head-guy.
And to note about high-compression and iron-heads that some of you were worried, were keeping DCR at tolerable numbers and using fully adjustable digital ignition WITH fully adjustable vacuum advance aswell, so to say, i got rid of HEI. I think we can play along with the high SCR.
Fully adjustable ignition aswell gives me a change, if tripping through country with crap gas, to play easily with ignition advance for those drive-throughs.

Plan is to visit Hungary next summer with this. 2550 mile round-trip.




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Old September 18th, 2018, 06:07 AM
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Interesting. Programmable ignition is a good idea. With low-tech distributor, centrifugal weights and a vacuum can, you always have to compromise and there is only few diy builders who will take the trouble to adjust and grind the distributir to perfection. Thus leaving some ponies unused.
My problem with my 375 sbo stroker it's kicking back at hot starts. If I adjust the advance for good hot starts, the advance is too low for performance.
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Old October 14th, 2018, 01:53 AM
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Engine finally waiting at machinery for pick-up. Hopefully in 2-3 weeks i get it, due to conflicting opening hours at machinery versus my job. The cost was 1569$, including everything you can do to block from line-honing to boreing with stress-plate, and everything between, plus thinning the big-ends of the connection rods. IMO price was fair, how does it sound to US price-level? Just out of interest.

Heads are halfways done, just visited to see them yesterday.
About my intake, he said hes seen worse, so thata positive, yeah?
About SI Valves, portflow series. Head-guy wasnt overly excited about them. Stem diameter varies on same valves, as much as it binds on new liner at some spots. Showed it with both micrometer and pushing it through guide. Needs some more work than thought= more money. Thats same as with my Hedman headers, collectors needed work to even fit on place. And ignition parts ( which im not gonna use anymore), etc etc. Im sick of half-finished crap products.

Meanwhile on other projects, i bought quality Kemppi MMA-welder. Perfect for everything else i need and might need to fabricate from metal at home, than car sheet-metal jobs, but those i leave to professional anyways. For other sheet-metal jobs i can use the MAG at our work. And why i bought it, is that i recently bought with a lottery towing hitch for those whale-bodied Caprice sedans. It fitted darn close out of box. But to get it fit perfect, i cutted it apart and will reweld it next to my car. Only thing needed to buy is one bar of 2*2" 0,7" wall square-tubing, since that got cutted in pieces when i hitted my hitch with grinder.

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Old December 1st, 2018, 08:25 AM
  #86  
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Christmas most wanted furnishing for dining room has finally arrived. Wife is pleasured



Now i have few more days of work, and then ill start to slowly assemble it. Also simultaneously visiting one shop to balance my rotating assembly. Good times.
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Old December 1st, 2018, 07:28 PM
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Hey Jouni - haven't seen or heard from you in a long time. Nice - only the rednecks usually get to use the dining room to assemble their engines. I'm sure you weren't serious that your wife likes it.... Coming back to the NGMT sometime??
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Old December 2nd, 2018, 06:00 AM
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You are going to need a big cam or seriously retard the timing with 10 to 1 on 87 octane. What gearing and trans? It is a heavy car, also doesn't help. No one builds the mid 70's Cutlass. My love of Oldsmobile's started with our 75 Cutlass 4 door with a 350 Rocket, nicknamed "The Beast".
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Old December 2nd, 2018, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403 View Post
You are going to need a big cam or seriously retard the timing with 10 to 1 on 87 octane. What gearing and trans? It is a heavy car, also doesn't help. No one builds the mid 70's Cutlass. My love of Oldsmobile's started with our 75 Cutlass 4 door with a 350 Rocket, nicknamed "The Beast".
I love this era GM A-bodys. Cutlass S and Pontiac LeMans are my favourites.

Anyways, actually writing to clarify one thing, about fuel.
Where i live, i drive continuosly with 94oct with your octane rating. Getting 87oct with your rating, will be really really occasional, and just might happen when driving through baltic countries on eastern europe. Has happened few times. Usually you can get 91oct at baltia, and with great luck even 94oct, again all with your octane rating. Since we here in europe use just RON-rating, not the RON+MON/2 you use.

And, ignition will be programmable. First, HEI wont fit with dual-quads, you need small-base distributor, so wandering a bit we end up with programmable ignition.

Last edited by Inline; December 2nd, 2018 at 11:42 AM.
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Old December 3rd, 2018, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Inline View Post
I love this era GM A-bodys. Cutlass S and Pontiac LeMans are my favourites.

Anyways, actually writing to clarify one thing, about fuel.
Where i live, i drive continuosly with 94oct with your octane rating. Getting 87oct with your rating, will be really really occasional, and just might happen when driving through baltic countries on eastern europe. Has happened few times. Usually you can get 91oct at baltia, and with great luck even 94oct, again all with your octane rating. Since we here in europe use just RON-rating, not the RON+MON/2 you use.

And, ignition will be programmable. First, HEI wont fit with dual-quads, you need small-base distributor, so wandering a bit we end up with programmable ignition.
I'm sure 307 and 403 ment retarding the cam, not ignition. I also agree that If you are building a streetable touring engine, you will have to choose too aggressive cam for your goals, because of the high compression. I would lower the compression target from 10 to 9,5 max. Of course you do what you have figured, just an opinion.
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Old December 9th, 2018, 05:37 AM
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Mocking up the engine to check clearances etc. Drivers side deck is .0059" under deck, and passenger side is .0059" over deck. Atleast theyre square front to rear. Now i know my calculations held pretty well for getting it to zero deck. Next to order head-gaskets with this info at hand.
Thrust is nice .006".

Oh, and crank goes back to machinery with rods. All connection rod big ends have been milled to wedge, and they lock each others if i put them both at 12 o'clock, and start to drag when they are closing. Needless to say, i have insufficient side-clearance, biggest one was .008". Connection rod wedge-shaped big-ends i verified with micrometer. I have Chevrolet rods, tho needing to narrow them down or open up the crank rod journal. Great ****.

Edited to be more understandable.

Last edited by Inline; December 9th, 2018 at 08:21 AM.
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Old December 9th, 2018, 08:52 AM
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Actually, went to sauna and thinked about it.
Going to hit machinery once more with my block and correct the deck-height difference by shaving drivers-side down. I dont have any means to prove it, but it came to my mind, since its as much under than over between decks, that they might have actually line-honed it to other side. They cleaned only the decks, no lowering, and i think they would have taken same amount from both decks, going with the one needing deeper cut to clean the deck. It might have been off since assembly-line too. Either crank-line or deck heights. First i thought i just order two sets of gaskets with different thicknesses and mix them, but ive burned already enough money to not settle for that.

Doh. Thats why you guys pay some extra to engine-builders. Saves from many head-aches.

Last edited by Inline; December 9th, 2018 at 09:08 AM.
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Old December 10th, 2018, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Inline View Post
Mocking up the engine to check clearances etc. Drivers side deck is .0059" under deck, and passenger side is .0059" over deck. Atleast theyre square front to rear. Now i know my calculations held pretty well for getting it to zero deck. Next to order head-gaskets with this info at hand.
Thrust is nice .006".

Oh, and crank goes back to machinery with rods. All connection rod big ends have been milled to wedge, and they lock each others if i put them both at 12 o'clock, and start to drag when they are closing. Needless to say, i have insufficient side-clearance, biggest one was .008". Connection rod wedge-shaped big-ends i verified with micrometer. I have Chevrolet rods, tho needing to narrow them down or open up the crank rod journal. Great ****.

Edited to be more understandable.
That's too much difference between decks. 0,002" difference would be somewhat acceptable. I would get it fixed.
I bet the side clearances vary from journal to journal. It's a lot easier to shave the sides of rods than open the journals.I would aim to 0,01 - 0,015. Side clearance is not so critical, unless too tight. 0,008 is on the borderline. You have the HV oil pump. Open the side clearances some and you get better cooling for the crank journals (more oil volume passing).
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Old December 10th, 2018, 09:45 AM
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Yes, as i said it goes back to machinery, both block and crank'n'rods. Apparently it wasnt too easy for them to shave connection rods narrower. Well, ive visited twice that machinery now, first and last.

Last edited by Inline; December 10th, 2018 at 10:06 AM.
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Old December 10th, 2018, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Inline View Post
Yes, as i said it goes back to machinery, both block and crank'n'rods. Apparently it wasnt too easy for them to shave connection rods narrowers. Well, ive visited twice that machinery now, first and last.
Mine was grinded by friend with a normal flat grinder, general metal machining shop, not by engine shop. Super simple procedure.
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Old December 10th, 2018, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by slade69 View Post
Mine was grinded by friend with a normal flat grinder, general metal machining shop, not by engine shop. Super simple procedure.
Your build went pretty smoothly from what i remember, atleast from machining-side. I want to open up my side clearance, when factory spec is, total for both rods, .006"-.027".

Btw, i have something belonging to you + im owing you some.. Were visiting near where you live somewhere around yearscs end, no specific date chosen, so ill contact you. Now its 3 days work, and at friday our boss flies us, all expenses paid, to Spain for 4 days, so im taking a short break from worrying about this.
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Old December 10th, 2018, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by slade69 View Post
Mine was grinded by friend with a normal flat grinder, general metal machining shop, not by engine shop. Super simple procedure.
It would probably be cheaper to have the automotive machine shop to lick or grind the rods IMO. I'm sure they would have fixture's set up for a complete set rather than setting up, indicating each one in a tooling/custom machine shop. Just my thoughts.

Eric
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Old December 11th, 2018, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Inline View Post
Your build went pretty smoothly from what i remember, atleast from machining-side. I want to open up my side clearance, when factory spec is, total for both rods, .006"-.027".

Btw, i have something belonging to you + im owing you some.. Were visiting near where you live somewhere around yearscs end, no specific date chosen, so ill contact you. Now its 3 days work, and at friday our boss flies us, all expenses paid, to Spain for 4 days, so im taking a short break from worrying about this.
Yes, the only small thing was that when my crank was stroked, the ginder opened the journal widths bit randomly. Due to this, my rod side clearances vary quite a bit from journal to journal (0,012"-0,02"). No ill effect from that though. I have heard engines build with rod side clearances as big as 0,1". Rods have to be guided from piston wrist pins then.

Ok, we'll meet again soon then. Have a nice holidays! Don't stress about engine build, it should be fun!

Last edited by slade69; December 11th, 2018 at 01:20 AM.
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Old January 3rd, 2019, 11:14 AM
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While waiting for machinery to open after christmas, i went to do something concrete instead of waiting.

​​​​​​Now i finally have a hitch. It even have curt's part-number on it, so it must be legit Actually by our law this is legit.
Now it only needs sanding and painting.




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Old January 4th, 2019, 06:04 AM
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Up to something more interesting. Been waiting work-over for two years, but now when theres finally light at the end of the tunnel, its time to go over this.

Ps. Sorry for pics being glued together, i cant add space between them on my phone.



Last edited by Inline; January 4th, 2019 at 06:07 AM.
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Old January 4th, 2019, 05:15 PM
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What are you plans for the transmission?
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Old January 5th, 2019, 01:06 AM
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Just overhaul it, new everything including bushings ( have tools), install transgo shiftkit and few other upgrades, and call it done.
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Old January 11th, 2019, 01:15 AM
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Block, crank and rods back in machinery. There were at most 0.5:1 difference between cylinders on compression, from decking it to angle. Great job.
Not speaking about rods interfering to each others from non-existant clearance.

Automatic transmission is half-way. Valvebody is done and waiting assembly, parts are cleaned and measured, oil pump-checked out really good, and all other parts too. Bushings on the other hand were pretty worn, especially stator supports. But here i must raise my hands up in the air and admit i need help.
I bought some "hack-tools" for installing bushings, i had my doubts, but was told they work for this job. Yes, they work, i can get bushings installed, but since they are bit off size-wise, ive micked few bushing and theyve collapsed some where the driver been resting, and when putting corresponding axle to place and rotating, you can feel them dragging due to that collapse. So, ill buy new bushings, and take all parts needing them, and visit transmission shop and let them install those.

Not much else happening.

Last edited by Inline; January 11th, 2019 at 01:18 AM.
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