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To make your decision tougher...the difference between HC and LC is in the pistons. If you plan to do a rebuild it becomes a matter of which pistons you purchase; but, if you buy new pistons you'll want the block bored...see where this is going? $$$ and time.
So the vehicle will be coming home finally by this weeks end. It has the Buick V6 for now. I see Retro's motor and it fits the "gold standard" listed above. So if I were to purchase Retro's motor and not necessarily rebuild it but go with it as is plus what looks like missing top end where am I going wrong if I were to get pistons that fit the motor's application? Not sure it even needs pistons, I'm a green horn for sure. Retro what's missing from this motor as I see it on the thread? Also the price you quoted and the engine stand is still included?
Sorry Retro I reread your original post about the engine and see you describe what it would come with. Any opinions from the community? Please advise. Thank you.
If the pistons were being replaced during a rebuild HC, LC or custom pistons could be used to achieve the desired compression ratio. When the Olds factory produced the engine the block was the same, the height/dish of the pistons used is what made the CR difference so you could do the same.
Larams youwould need to rebuild my engine ! Its a nearly 50 year old original engine, not to say it wouldnt run, but it had high miles and unknown history. Pretty much any old engine should be considered a core.
Any original engine you get would be best rebuilt IMO.
i see a rebuilt 350 w th350 on nh cl for 2000 ifyou want a drop in this looks like it would be a good deal, iirc its in claremont area about 2 hours north of me. This could be a good route for you, i know its a drive but, its already been rebuiltand should be GTG for another 50 years.
for reference i drove 4 hrs each way to get my 455.
that was after i drove 2 hours each way to pass on a junk original engine (at least one dead cylinder) that was being sold as a ‘good runner’ in chesire ct.
edit down to 1500 https://nh.craigslist.org/pts/d/clar...200613649.html
while buying my engine would be the best option for me this looks like a really good deal for a drop in 350.
if your plan is to build the engine to your specs buy mine and have it rebuilt.
Retro is providing you the best offer, IMO. Complete w/ stand, a good core, I believe he said he had a trans he’d toss in, he’s a very knowledgeable resource, he’s a dedicated CO member, he needs the space and you need a winter project. Plenty of positive reasons to grab Retro’s.
I have inquired about the Craigslist 350, waiting on a reply. Retro's core is still on my radar but I am looking. Not sure how much a rebuild would cost for Retro's but very much open to that. Retro thanks for your leads.
I still say a 68 to 70 350 with a 4 barrel carb is your best bet. It has to have been a factory 4 barrel carb.
Anything from 71 to 76 will be low compression .
77 and up will be windowed mains.
To bad you are so far away, I’m sure they are around, shipping is a factor.
Building a low compression engine, to bring it up to something useable will need pistons, also a cam to match what you have.
So I can bring you all up to date I have purchased the Craigslist 350 that was posted by Retro. Let me thank Retro first off for being so helpful and selfless in that he also had a motor contending for me to buy but still took the time to post competing options. The others that posted opinions were highly considered prior to my purchase and I'm truly greatful as I transition from green horn to novice. This will be my winter project and again I'll post so I can learn from those far more educated than myself. Again thank you all!! Work done to motor1 Total paid for motor rebuild Work done to motor2 Work done to motor3
Wow, LaRams the post above mine # 125 from RetroRanger is the essence of this website. Good sound advice above all else !
Just opened the link provided by Retro, sounds like a screaming buy to me. I say go get it... hopefully you already did.
Ad says its a 76, that's in the goldie locks zone. Winner winner chicken dinner. Run to it rather than walk if you get my meaning.
69 I brought this combo motor/trans home today. The back story is a gentleman in ct had rebuilt the motor in 2008. Family issues forced his sell of the motor to the gentleman I bought it from in NH today. It has never been placed in a car or turned over. The original builder has asked me to call/text him if I have any questions about the rebuild. I texted him a few hours ago. Any questions you would lose to him? I want to ask him if he did any enhancements or just a stock rebuild. Here's his receipts for parts and machining total $2800. I paid $1200 for the motor and a TH350 trans. Would the TH350 be a better pairing than a custom 200R4? Here's the receipts for machining/parts
Re-builder replied that it was a stock rebuild for the most part minus flat top pistons that he says should have upgraded the compression from stock 8:1 to 9:1. Does anyone know how much stock hp (180-190) would increase if at all with that compression change?
The purchase today included many parts from a 1986 Buick Regal 307. I've read and he also confirmed many parts are compatible with the Olds 350. He didn't recall where these brackets where specific to. Does anyone recognize these brackets/parts and where they're used. Also he threw in Headman headers. Will those fit in the A body with a 350?
Awesome, I was aware. I don't always sign in when I skim through the site. I was already working on info for you about cam, etc. Before your scheduled pickup, but then figured stand aside as to not jinx the transaction... So here we go, this will likely take a few posts.
Originally Posted by LARams1
The back story is a gentleman in ct had rebuilt the motor in 2008. Family issues forced his sell of the motor to the gentleman I bought it from in NH today. It has never been placed in a car or turned over.
I personally had a Olds V8 that sat 7 years straight. Removed each spark plug put a soda cap full of oil in each opening. (you want to make sure that pistons move smoothly inside cylinder walls) Let it sit a while then proceeded to crank the engine a miniscule amount at a time till all the cylinders had moved for a cycle at a minimum. Without ever actually starting the car. Eventually started her up... and she ran like always... great !
I would verify the go to moves with your mechanic at a minimum. Being that yours was never fired up it will likely be a bit more involved...
The original builder has asked me to call/text him if I have any questions about the rebuild. I texted him a few hours ago. Any questions you would lose to him? I want to ask him if he did any enhancements or just a stock rebuild.
I would also ask him recommendations for initial firing up.
Originally Posted by LARams1
Here's his receipts for parts and machining total $2800. I paid $1200 for the motor and a TH350 trans. Would the TH350 be a better pairing than a custom 200R4? Here's the receipts for machining/parts
I think you did great, you paid a fraction of what it would cost if you started from scratch. I think a high performance or custom (built to match power) TH200-4R will be the better choice. Having overdrive is a win win win. Better fuel economy, better first gear for acceleration, and the ability to use a high performance gear without the engine always screaming. Of course you will have to pay to play... Besides being far more expensive than a run of the mill TH350, some modifications will have to be done to car to get it to work correctly. (torque converter lock up, TV cable, gear indicator, etc)
Re-builder replied that it was a stock rebuild for the most part minus flat top pistons that he says should have upgraded the compression from stock 8:1 to 9:1. Does anyone know how much stock hp (180-190) would increase if at all with that compression change?
Engine builders generally don't seem to consider minute (adj) changes very significant. I was unaware of the pistons till now but just going by cam swap your engine has been enhanced slightly. The flat top pistons are a very welcome bonus. Oldsmobile pegged the difference from low compression to high compression at + 10 horsepower and + 20 LB FT gross on small block V8. When going from 9:1 to 10:25...
I've also heard a 4% gain on a 1 point increase in compression. So a 250HP engine will now be 260HP gross. Which happens to exactly match Oldsmobile's 2BBL 330 V8 offerings.
(I would use premium gas when all is said and done.)
Coincidently I figured your engine will generate about 250 HP net, now when considering compression boost, + 8 HP net. Rounded up with some tuning to 260 HP net. My next post will further touch on this as well as cam specs.
Any opinions about the parts/machining work performed on the motor??
Standard measured rebuild, and the camshaft is definitely an upgrade over stock. Plus the overbore and valve job. All of which add power.
Looks to be similar to basic stick cam. So you are on the high end of what the factory would do with these engines. She will be strong and safe.
Headers, true dual exhaust, maybe 260 HP flywheel net. So around 50% increase in power over stock. And 2 1/2 times what your car was born with (v6).
(Stock 1976 Olds 350 was 170HP and 275HP)
Your engines torque has been considerably enhanced as well. Somewhat lessening the need for a high performance rear gear when looking for extra hustle. In turn the TH350 may work out just fine...
Potentially low to mid 90s in MPH and low to mid 14s in ET with ideal set-up. A nice healthy mover.
The purchase today included many parts from a 1986 Buick Regal 307. I've read and he also confirmed many parts are compatible with the Olds 350. He didn't recall where these brackets where specific to. Does anyone recognize these brackets/parts and where they're used. Also he threw in Headman headers. Will those fit in the A body with a 350?
LARams1 at this point you may want to ask the powers that be (moderators) to consider maybe separating your thread somewhere around the engine purchase post, etc. Great Newbie thread but as you proceed to move forward on your ride it may make more sense to place at least part of the thread in a more targeted forum. Or not... (it has flowed very well as is)
(The Newbie ForumThe place where you should introduce yourself. Do not ask technical questions here, use the site forum sections.)
I personally love this thread and going along for the ride on your journey but I am concerned that your posts may not be getting the proper amount of exposure they deserve. I'm not sure that all fellow active members focus much on the newbie forum... Since its mostly welcome to the site, etc. I would hate to think you may be missing out on some valuable advice. Honestly there are members here with a lot more knowledge and experience than me.
With that said I will keep firing away as much as I can. Best of luck on this project and I cant wait till she is fully on the road and you have a big smile on your face. I think your 64 is going to be a fun ballsy ride.
69SC thank you for your insight and explaining the motor rebuild. You along with others have been instrumental and inspirational in my quest to understand and restore my car. You all are like a good friend that I'd sit and have a beer 🍻 with and impart wisdom. Pretty cool! I'm going to take your advice and peel away this thread at the juncture you suggested.
Thanks I'm looking forward to sharing the cars development this fall/winter. I'm SURE I'll lean on the forum going from greenhorn to novice. Starting the Rochester 7041230 tommorow, here we go. I did take not that the filter port was built for a Chevy 90* out where as the Buick Oldsmobile and pontiac were inline is the an adapter or just bend the fuel line fit to suit?
RETRO!!! I'm sure some of you know of him but I can say with assuredness having dealt with him on this site, this is one selfless individual. If you haven't read this thread read back a few posts. Thanks again for directing me to info that will assist my restore. 👍💪
Just something to chew on as you go forward, clearly an improvement over stock.
This warning below is a little helpful note towards engine break-in.
WARNING: In addition to the break-in procedure described in the main installation instructions, you must use Edelbrock break-in oil PN 1070 or equivalent. If using your own engine oil, use Edelbrock Zinc Additive PN 1074 or equivalent. Failure to use proper engine break-in oil or zinc additive can permanently damage the new camshaft and void manufacture warranty. Engine break-in oil and zinc additive is NOT included with this camshaft and must be purchased separately.
Does anyone know why these ports were plugged off? This Rochester 7041230 was used exclusively on 1971 Cadillacs minus limos which used 7041231's. Pic 1 is the baseplate. Pic 2 is the middle plate. I'm ready for the rebuild and wanted to know if these ports should stay capped off. Couldn't find any pics online legible enough to confirm capping them.
I would think just rebuild it by the book and let the mechanic assuming he is familiar with carburetors sort out the caps and hoses. There should be capped endings for sure, I have plenty on my ride. One way or the other this will need to be sorted out as the car will never run just right without it.
I have never owned a carbureted car since new, so couldn't say if all ports are used initially. But I doubt it, as many a carburetor were likely universal to some extent and installed in many different vehicles with somewhat different layouts.
In addition here are the potential issues that come with using a quadrajet intended for another make and model. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hppp...hopping-guide/ I see you are already familiar with section 1.
I was unable to rebuild my factory carb. I tried multiple rebuild kits but just couldn’t get the needle valve in the float to do what I needed.
ieventually gave up and purchased a new Edlebrock 4 barrel. I had to buy a special plate with angled holes in it to get the holes in the carb to match the holes in the intake manifold.
Thanks for the replies and information. Had a few people suggest to replace the carb with an Edelbrock 1405 or 1406. Rebuild will cost about $45 then there's the application issue 472/500 Cadillac vs 350 Olds. I'm purchasing ceramic headers from classicmusclecarexhaust.com. Add down pipes, straight dual exhaust and 2 Dynomax 20" mufflers. This was the only place I could find headers that mated with the 350 Oldsmobile and A body. There may be others but seem elusive or I just suck surfing the web. Please comment, thanks.
October 18th, 2020, 03:50 PM
this looks like a really good deal for a drop in 350.
