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What type of carburetor would you couple that with and did it support AC? After this summer not sure I could go without it. Is there after market components that would set up AC on that?
Consider converting to a tandem master cylinder early on in the process. With the single master any leak in the hydraulic system affects all the brakes. With a tandem a leak affects half of the system while the other half continues to work..."enough said"...
Asking what carb to use is like asking what toppings to put on a pizza, everyone has their favorite. Are you wanting to learn to tune the carb? As far as the AC look up vintage air, they will have what you need.
Consider converting to a tandem master cylinder early on in the process. With the single master any leak in the hydraulic system affects all the brakes. With a tandem a leak affects half of the system while the other half continues to work..."enough said"...
Good luck!!!
Heres the work I've had done over the last month or so. Stuff with some guidance I probably could've done myself some a mechanic with the right power tools I don't have so hired them to do it all. Pretty penny but needed it to be road worthy and a lift would be necessary my limited knowledge to accomplish alot of the replaced components. So it's the baseline to get it home and absorb as much of the wisdom on this forum to have this done by spring. I have the before pics and will post during interior/engine restore till spring unveil. Thanks for all your experiences you all have shared to date.
The internal knocking on those engines that is written on the receipt was usually the timing chain tensioner. It is a simple set-up but not the most durable, it's a small rubbing block that is spring loaded against the chain.
The internal knocking on those engines that is written on the receipt was usually the timing chain tensioner. It is a simple set-up but not the most durable, it's a small rubbing block that is spring loaded against the chain.
The brakes look good.
Thanks it's still at the shop is it an easy fix something I shouldn't pay for a $95 an hour mechanic and wait till I get it home and do myself?
Replacing the chain tensioner requires removing the front cover of the engine. While the cover is off change the timing chain, the two gears and look at the oil pump cover for scoring and replace/resurface as needed. If it isn't knocking badly and your going to change the engine it could probably wait.
I hope you are able to keep it all Oldsmobile. I have a big block with 391 gears and a turbo 400 trans. Fun car, but not highway friendly. A mildly built 350 would make you nice cruiser with a little get up and go. Take your time ,ask a lot of questions. Most importantly have fun and don’t overspend!
My understanding is the gears are 373 in my Olds is there anything I should be concerned about with an upsized motor?
I don't think this is a terrible price for an original untouched 350CID 350TH combo. Even if its a 1976 version. I will agree that looks wise leaves a lot to be desired. Not saying jump on it, but if it runs right and all seems well... Prices can usually be negotiated....
One thing to keep in mind, there is nothing special to a 442 engine by 1976.
Here is a rundown on Oldsmobile 350, production was 1968 -1980. 1968-1970 were the only years that offered high compression versions. High compression versions require premium gas and octane boosters unless you retard timing. ( pull the timing back, slowing the performance down so engine can get by with **** poor gas ) 1971-1976 are all low compression but engine quality ( not power) is on par with 1968-1970. 1977-1980 are bottom of the barrel compromised engines ( designed to run well and be safe as is, not ideal for build up).
Every single Olds 350 regardless of year makes a minimum of about 200 HP and 300 FT LBS NET when 4BBL and true dual exhaust.
No worries, taking this stuff is some of the best parts of this hobby. Ask away, seriously.
Here's the reply from the ebay seller:
hello sir , i do have a video of it running , its on my cell phone . it has the higher compression pistons with less dish to them . this is a original u- rebuilt good runner . thanks bob
What's that mean concerning high compression?
hello sir , i do have a video of it running , its on my cell phone . it has the higher compression pistons with less dish to them . this is a original u- rebuilt good runner . thanks bob
What's that mean concerning high compression?
Un-rebuilt and original while being a good runner is good in my book, does he have an idea on mileage and when was it actually used last ? Not just running in place.
Regarding compression, the current owner may not be well versed in Olds engines... Maybe he believes 442 engine means high compression ? It doesn't.
Here are the precise specs on his engine. 1976 442 350 CID = 170 HP 275 FT LBS 8.5:1 compression
Here are the precise specs on a Cutlass 1976 "S" 350 CID = 170 HP 275 FT LBS 8.5:1 compression
Here are the precise specs on the 2BBL . 1976 Omega 350 CID = 140 HP 280 FT LBS 8:1 compression
So could you say 8.5 is high ? yes vs a 8.0 But for Oldsmobile high is above 10 and low is 9 and below. Nothing after 1970 is high, all compression is low.
Originally Posted by LARams1
I got a video of the ebay sellers 350 for sale. Does the forum not allow videos? The motor sounds strong.
From what I understand you will need to upload vid to YouTube or the like and post the link.
Un-rebuilt and original while being a good runner is good in my book, does he have an idea on mileage and when was it actually used last ? Not just running in place.
Regarding compression, the current owner may not be well versed in Olds engines... Maybe he believes 442 engine means high compression ? It doesn't.
Here are the precise specs on his engine. 1976 442 350 CID = 170 HP 275 FT LBS 8.5:1 compression
Here are the precise specs on a Cutlass 1976 "S" 350 CID = 170 HP 275 FT LBS 8.5:1 compression
Here are the precise specs on the 2BBL . 1976 Omega 350 CID = 140 HP 280 FT LBS 8:1 compression
So could you say 8.5 is high ? yes vs a 8.0 But for Oldsmobile high is above 10 and low is 9 and below. Nothing after 1970 is high, all compression is low.
From what I understand you will need to upload vid to YouTube or the like and post the link.
Thanks for the info. I'm not much for these websites, social media etc, having access to my phones internals (photos, camera, microphone) so I'll forgo that process and probably the engine itself. So with a base 170hp it'd need to be built up for some giddy up. Why did they make the 350's in the 60's/early 70's with so much more hp? Was it the gas crunch or did they want us to buy more after market components or both? My car's Buick V6 is pushing 155hp.
So with a base 170hp it'd need to be built up for some giddy up.
A 76 350 was saddled with a pellet catalytic converter and single exhaust. Your 64 can be dual exhaust no catalytic, or dual exhaust high flow cats. That'll put you around 200 HP, which is the best HP factory production for Oldsmobile 350 from 1971 to 1980.
Originally Posted by LARams1
Why did they make the 350's in the 60's/early 70's with so much more hp? Was it the gas crunch or did they want us to buy more after market components or both?
One of the reasons that 1960s and early 1970s looks so impressive on paper is because of ratings discrepancy. Ratings pre 1971 were solely gross, ratings post 1971 were solely net. For example my 1969 350 is high compression factory rated at 310 HP (gross) , net conversion is 250 HP.
W31s are the most powerful high compression Olds 350s of all time, factory rated at 325 HP (gross) , performance indicates it produced around 280 HP net ( modern ratings standard). So yes some 350s were far more powerful than mid 1970s but closer than many think.
Originally Posted by LARams1
My car's Buick V6 is pushing 155hp.
That 155 is gross HP, net conversion or modern rating is around 100 HP. Swapping in a 200 HP 350 is like going from a 1960s Volkswagen bug to a Porsche 911 Turbo. You will be blown away unless modern performance has corrupted your senses... ( my daily driver is 2 seconds quicker than my 69 but I am still impressed with the 69s performance)
Buildup depends on wants and needs, 64 F85s are incredibly lightweight. 3050 LBs base curb weight with 225 V6 , + 200 LBS or so when V8 and matching transmission. That 1976 350 at 200 HP is double your cars stock power. With decent gearing will make for a nice driver. But if your used to modern quick cars your may want a serious buildup. Or if you want a beast your gonna want a buildup, 300 net HP and up is beast territory for me for original muscle era.
Last edited by 69CSHC; September 17th, 2020 at 10:32 PM.
Reason: spelling
High numbered gear ratios make the engine run at high rpm, which puts more wear and tear on the engine and also uses more gas. 373 gears would put you at about 3000 rpm doing about 65 mph unless you have an overdrive trans.
These are all great thoughts and ideas for you to work with. AS mentioned above, the early 64-65's are indeed light and with not adding a whole lot of HP, the right tranny, and rear gear these will scoot! My 64 F-85 with the modified 200-4R will put you in overdrive and cruise at 70 MPH on the interstate with little ease. The rear has a 3:50 gear set.
69CS, tjraj, therob, thanks for the input. A couple questions. So would you purchase the 76 350 w/350TH transmission to couple with my current gear ratio? The shop it's sitting at is waiting for the 200-4R to install. Would the 76 motor mate up to the 200-4R and if so what would be the plusses/minuses of that pairing. I'll call the owner this morning for the mileage on the motor. Basically if I bought the pair from the ebay seller I'm looking at roughly $1200 shipped.
The motor from the ebay seller has 70k showing on the speedometer for what that's worth as I'm not there to verify. I'll have the seller walk up to the vehicle and video the speedometer. Is there going to be any issues with the drive shaft if I were to use these 2 components?
Sorry for all the questions I'm learning on the fly. All those years ago I could have learned from my friends who were gearing while I was sporting. This knowledge would've been more beneficial in the long run.
So would you purchase the 76 350 w/350TH transmission
Tough call, personally I prefer to buy an engine from a running car that I can test. Obviously this is not really an option on this deal.
Originally Posted by LARams1
So would you purchase the 76 350 w/350TH transmission to couple with my current gear ratio?
Yes if I bought that combo I would couple it to your stock rear. Looks like your cars base rear gear is 3.23 with optional 3.36 and 3.90. All 3 are better than whatever the 1976 442 came with. (2.73 or 3.08) Not sure of the 64s rear end strength but the 76 is top notch in this department.
Originally Posted by LARams1
The shop it's sitting at is waiting for the 200-4R to install. Would the 76 motor mate up to the 200-4R and if so what would be the plusses/minuses of that pairing.
Yes it will mate to the 350. Pluses, better 1st gear for acceleration and overdrive, that 4th gear will allow for a very aggressive gear like a 3.90 to be kept at bay highway rpm wise. Minuses, strength. The TH350 can handle more power...
Originally Posted by LARams1
Basically if I bought the pair from the ebay seller I'm looking at roughly $1200 shipped.
If your going this route I would try to get price down a bit while still under eBays umbrella. $1000 shipped makes more sense to me...
Originally Posted by LARams1
The motor from the ebay seller has 70k showing on the speedometer for what that's worth as I'm not there to verify. I'll have the seller walk up to the vehicle and video the speedometer.
No worries not the answer I prefer to hear. I was hoping for some possible insight, like the previous owner told them so and so, etc. Looking for more of a feel than just technical. I would leave this part alone, mileage could be 70,000 or 170,000 with an answer like that.
P.S. so I went over the eBay add more thoroughly. A lot of check marks for what I would consider a transaction to go ahead with. But no way I can tell you to go for it from my perspective. If the engine is shot or tired and only idles/runs well without load, does the price make sense to you if your going to have to rebuild right away ?
A sb Buick V8 would be an easy swap as the V6 is A Buick engine. I think putting in an Olds engine will require some wiring changes as the starters on opposite sides. That being said I'd still swap in an Olds.
Well i will throw my 2 cents in. I'm into 64's pretty good.
I had a 64 post coupe with no engine and trans, and few things that needed a bunch of work, I've had for a couple of years and just sold it, It was a project added to my list of cars I want to fix. One that I may not get to.
For me, I was going to do a 350 Olds engine with a 5 speed trans, and a type "O" Olds 3.23 posi rear. I was to use Thornton 350 Jr manifolds, Dual exhaust out to the bumper, with Dynomax super turbo mufflers . Just a nice driver car.
I wanted to be able to cruse the streets, and hit the freeway to the next town.
You need to look at all your options. Any engine you get from 73 and newer will be low compression. Also any 68 to 72 350 Olds with a two barrel carb will be low compression. I say look for a 68 to 70 350 with a 4 bbl carb. You may have to have it freshen up. If it is a runner in good running condition, maybe rings, rod bearings, main bearings, mild cam & lifters. timing chain set, some machine work and go. What ever Olds engine you use, you will need to use part number 2261 engine mount.
A 350 Olds and a T350 trans will be a bolt in and a nice driver car. If you plan a lot of freeway and road trips a 200-4R is the way to go.
Also, I would stick with quadrajet carb, they work good and get decent mileage.
keep us up to date as what is happening.
Gene
In thinking about this, I'm not sure on the engine mount because of the V6 engine. It could be fine, I would need to see the V6 mounts.
Last edited by 64Rocket; September 18th, 2020 at 10:42 PM.
69CS, Cutlass & Rocket. Got cold feet on the '76 350 and couldn't pull the trigger. Being as green as I am may have over thought it and decided to wait for another opportunity as the motor will be a spring project giving me more time to thoroughly understand my decision/s. The input I'm getting from this forum is phenomenal and greatly appreciated without it I'm sure I would've made numerous missteps costing me untold amounts of hard earned money. Thanks for commenting, your wisdom is going to good use for sure.
The v6 frame pads for the engine mounts will only work with a buick v6 or v8 small block. For the olds engine you will need olds frame pads.. I am still tempted to install a 98 camaro 3800 and 5 speed in one of 64 cutlasses. Very easy update. If you have both cars which I do
Jmc thank you for that information. I assumed it would be plug and play. I'll be searching for a motor this Fall/Winter to be installed by spring. Every nugget you all have advised will be reread to make sure I make the right choices. In the meantime I'm going over the web daily and eventually I'll find the right fit. I will post my findings and continue to lean heavily on the experience and knowledge you all have given me. Thanks again
Also please post if any of you happen to come across what you all think would be a good fit so I can inquire on it. Most of the ones I've looked at are local pickups only and it may come down to having to travel to secure a good one.
Have you driven the car yet? If it runs right you may be pleasantly surprised. The 2004r will definitely improve performance My first car in 1970 was a 64 F85 deluxe with a v6, three speed on the floor .Enough power to move the car smartly, and return 18 mpg around town 22 mpg on a trip. All this with regular gas. My 87 cutlass with buick v6 and 3 speed auto , does the same. If your motor is bad, any rear drive buick v6 will bolt to the frame pads with the 64 motor mount . There are low mileage 80's v6s on craigslist often. The go fasteties, buy grannys low milage survivor and want to put an LS in it. Often you can driver the car b4 they remove the motor. If you go buick v8 if is a plug and play. If you go Olds v8. You will need v8 frame pads . relocate battery to driver side rewiring for olds v8 and different throttle linkage. The only hard part to this swap is locating the bits and pieces. It is all plug, and play with the right plugs. Questions feel free to pm or email I have been swapping these cars around for years
Got cold feet on the '76 350 and couldn't pull the trigger. Being as green as I am may have over thought it and decided to wait for another opportunity as the motor will be a spring project giving me more time to thoroughly understand my decision/s.
Cool, sometimes pulling back and reassessing a situation is the best way to go. At worst you lost out on a decent engine/package and at best you just saved 1200.
Post up on the parts wanted section on this forum. I trust the people on this site more than a random person on eBay. Be clear on what your looking for and how far you are able to travel to inspect, purchase an engine. Check the ad often and before you know it something will be available.
September 14th, 2020, 05:14 PM
